I like a high candela beam with good color temp & high CRI, but I'm reluctant to rely on a light for EDC that's not fully potted. I've got four Elzettas, one Peak and maybe fifteen Malkoffs plus the CD OWL on my PWS. Generally I would rather sacrifice a bit of output for higher durability. The OWL is really spoiling me as it provides both.
Setting up a flashlight to be used as a hammer definitely requires some special consideration.Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderco monkey
To start with, the light itself needs to have a robust build, especially where parts screw together (like the head to the body). In this regard, Malkoff MDx lights serve as good hosts.
As already mentioned, the head or drop-in needs to be fully potted. More specifically, the circuit board must be protected from a cell slamming into it if the light is dropped head first. In this regard, the Malkoff drop-ins excel as the LED and circuit board are housed in a solid brass heat sink/housing, then covered with epoxy;
https://i.ibb.co/YL0M6Nd/M61-3-917ea...b68ed-800x.jpg
I have zero faith in any head that leaves the circuit board exposed (visible), especially those that use a solid contact vs. a spring to make the electrical connection to the cell.
Then there's protection of the cells, especially "protected" cells that have a fragile circuit board on the negative end. It is not unusual to have these boards fail, especially if the board is subjected to impact from a drop. In my case, I use a fat O-ring in front of the forward cell that serves as a bumper between the cell and the hard bedding on the rear of the Malkoff drop-in. Once when I was conducting "drop tests" with a Malkoff light, the cell got really chewed up slamming into the back of the drop-in. The O-ring solves that problem.
Finally, the most common failure point of any light is the switch. Some switches seem better than others in terms of reliability. In my experience I've had issues with Foursevens and Surefire switches, and the least with the McClicky switches used by certain light makers (including Malkoff). To help mitigate any damage to the switch (and the cell's protection circuit board) from impact, I also use an O-ring on the back of the rear cell.
By far the most reliable and robust switch available is a tailcap that has the Oveready ZeroRez installed in place of a traditional switch. I use this on my "Light Saber" which also allows the use of a cell that is 15mm longer (an 18500 instead of an 18350). An interesting point about the ZeroRez insert: there's usually enough tolerance in the tailcap threads to allow momentary operation by backing off the tailcap a few degrees from constant-on.
https://i.ibb.co/jWCwXtQ/3PZ-3.jpg
NH, could you elaborate on your Light saber, or would you mind to PM me the details?
I am in need of a new defensive light, my Quark QTL tactical that I have had for many years finally took one too many washes in the washing machine....
I have been out the flashlight game for awhile and don’t know what the new goodness is.
I contacted SkyLumen, and they offer a full potting service.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus
I'm going to have my 2nd DL25 MKII fully potted when I send it to him.
See post 51 in this thread - https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....T-Light-Saber/Quote:
Originally Posted by EVP
If you have any other questions let me know!
I was visiting family in NYC recently, which offered some opportunity to test the OSRAM modified D25LC2.
Even with extensive light pollution, 40k Candela was enough to easily light up rooftops at beyond 100yd. All with a light thats is much smaller then a normal surefire / tac light.
https://i.ibb.co/tXpLyPF/Eagletac-D2...RAM-roof-2.png
https://i.ibb.co/RS1nW68/Eagletac-D2...RAM-roof-1.png