I think for a close ranged human sized target #3 works as far as acceptable sight picture for blazing, regardless of how the gun is actually sighted in.
I think for a close ranged human sized target #3 works as far as acceptable sight picture for blazing, regardless of how the gun is actually sighted in.
And depending on the positioning of the front dot, could be interchangeable. The graphic is misleading in that it has the top edges of the front and rear sight aligned, while the 3 dots are nice and aligned as well. On multiple HKs of mine, if the top edges are aligned, the front dot on the front sight is elevated compared to the rear dots. I find that if I shift my head down slightly the dots are then in alignment,but the gun has not moved. May just be my sight choices, but that is how it works for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peally
#3 Works decent at 25 yards for me...When I'm blazing I set the tritium or fiber on the middle....If I need more betterer accuracy I'll be swapping to a hard front sight focus and take it in faith that the tritium/fiber will be in the area I want to hit.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2b140a2e4.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Peally
I've always used #2.
3. Little high,
1. Little low,
2. Any way the wind blows doesn't really matter to me, to me
In all seriousness though, my personal preference is definitely #2 for the reasoning that, with either of the others, achieving a precise aiming point (for me at least) is a bit too vague for my tastes. Give me a flat edge, and I can put it right on the middle of something consistently. Hold under or over...I just don't want to involve yet another calculation or consideration. I liken #2 to being like a 50yd zero for an AR15, within 0-250yds. +2" to -2", generally-speaking, so just split the middle of the target and be done with it.
I like #3. 90% of my guns have blacked out rear and a red fiber front. I like to see the dot and know that's where my bullet is gonna go (holdovers and distance aside). To me, #3 is like running a red dot. See red, "boom." Not see red, find top edge, "boom."
At 25Y my fiber optics sit neatly inside the black of a B8. Same with the tritium fronts on my other guns.
I love the concept of #2, but I instinctively just aim with #3 and I don't see that changing anytime soon. Doesn't matter if I'm shooting all black Sights, fiber, tritium, painted dots, it's a #3 hold on the target.
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Before coming to this forum, Id never heard of drive the dot. It seems rather odd to me, but I think Ive only owned 2 pistols in the past 40 years that had dots on the sights. The dot on the front does work OK as a reference point for the rear sight hold on the 300 yard plate.
The 6 oclock hold with the point of impact hitting center of the formal bullseye works OK for that specific game I guess. I use that hold for group shooting and zeroing sights, but the point of impact is right at or slightly above the top of the front sight. Not concerned about the scoring rings, its just a good place to get a consistent aiming point on a big black blob target. A small 1 1/2" or so black circle is easier I think for 25 yard groups, holding right on the bottom of that.
For all my pistols, I zero with a #2ish sight picture at 25 which usually makes for a #3 sight picture from 10-15 yards and in.
If you're using a thin fiber front, I can see how one can get away with a #3 sight picture at 25 yards, but a .125 width front sight (so basically most night sights) basically covers up the bull at that distance. With a #2 sight picture I can shoot for the upper A on a head box at 25 yards. With a #3 sight picture, I'd likely just be happy to hit the head.
This is my general preference also. Though, as I experiment more with thinner sights it has become easier to just use a #3 all the time if the zero holds up out to 25 or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt O
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