ALG 0000 Very Thin Grease

Anyone have any experience with this stuff? I picked up some of the Go-Juice lubricant on a friend's recommendation to see if it'll supplant my M-Pro 7 LPX, but I realized I'm coming to the bottom of my tiny little 1.75oz bottle of Mil-Comm TW-25B and need to either buy a syringe of the stuff again or get a different grease. Haven't seen too many in-depth reviews of the grease so I'm not sure if I should just go ahead and get both ALG products or if I should just stick to what I've been using.

FWIW, I generally don't let my guns get too dirty - they'll rarely see more than 500 rounds before a cleaning.

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Originally Posted by einherjarvalk

Anyone have any experience with this stuff? I picked up some of the Go-Juice lubricant on a friend's recommendation to see if it'll supplant my M-Pro 7 LPX, but I realized I'm coming to the bottom of my tiny little 1.75oz bottle of Mil-Comm TW-25B and need to either buy a syringe of the stuff again or get a different grease. Haven't seen too many in-depth reviews of the grease so I'm not sure if I should just go ahead and get both ALG products or if I should just stick to what I've been using.

FWIW, I generally don't let my guns get too dirty - they'll rarely see more than 500 rounds before a cleaning.

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Been using this stuff for the past four months without issue.

It stays where you put it for the most part as it doesn't sling. I will say that it does migrate a little bit but not to any huge extent where you're going to end up with stained shirts or overly slippery guns. After being heat cycled it does tend to get a little more less viscous but again, it stays where you put it originally.

For the price I paid id say its pretty awesome. Ive always been a motoroil fan for most applications but this stuff so far has been treating me fairly well and seems to be holding up really well. The nice thing about this stuff is that there is no apparent smell and when it gets really hot and it starts to cook off, you're not wondering if someone is making popcorn or if you're going to get some form of cancer via the fumes. I may be wrong but I believe the stuff is listed as non toxic but that statement is not verified.

For reference, ive run it on a Bushmaster ACR suppressed and unsuppressed.
11.5 Inch pistol build w/ TIN bolt carrier
G19X
S&W M&P 9 2.0.
G22 Duty gun.

Tagging.

I like it. It tends to linger on shotgun and AR bolts, which is nice. I also hate it when I get greasy stains on a white dress shirt at church. This stuff tends not to do that.

I’m often a nay-sayer with new lubes. ALG does not specify on their product page whether their VTG 0000 is petroleum based, synthetic, or a biosynthetic. Red flag. There is no mention of additives. Red flag. I recall reading when it first came out that it’s not made from their regular Go Juice lubricant, which is a biosynthetic. Go Juice, the biolube, is non toxic, whereas the VTG 0000 is toxic*. Lastly, I find the “0000” NLGI reference a bit gimmicky. It’s my understanding that an NLGI “00” grade is a semi fluid, something along the lines of baby food, whereas a “000” grade is a semi fluid approaching liquid, like a cooking oil (000 is often called fluid).

With all that negativity out of the way, I’m sure it’s a fine lubricant. We could all get by with vegetable oil if the need arose.

My two cents, look for a lube that works in a myriad of environments, both cold and hot. Look for something that is forgiving and easy to apply (no complicated instructions). I also think it’s wise to chose something that doesn’t contain halogens (chlorinated paraffins, chlorinated esters, chlorinated olefins). The lubrication industry as a whole seems to be moving away from chlorinated additives. First it was the long chain additives, but the medium and short chains are next. Firearms lubricant brands are notorious for being high on marketing, and low on detail (product makeup). I had to email my brand of choice to clarify if they contain any halogens.






*Post 181, Geissele Customer Service, later clarified to be toxic because it contains barium.

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-ALG-Go-Juice/

I've been running with p-f member Clobbersaurus's recommended Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2 grease for several years now in most of my Glocks, HKs, Rugers and Colt 1911. Also in my restored P.08 Luger; interestingly, with it, the toggle hold-open device actually works after the last round in a magazine is expended-not so with thinner oils and even TW25B. Historically, Vaseline was the recommended lubricant for Luger reciprocating components...

Alternatively, I'm also running with TW25B for certain pistols; notably my SIG-Sauer GSR and Glock 19; they also run impeccably. While it takes awhile, TW25B does eventually dry up, but that's after months of being in place.

Otherwise, Weapon Shield is my general lube, primarily for non-reciprocating components.

As Jeff S says above, you could probably use vegetable oil (or any other common/kitchen oil) in a pinch, but I've personally found that there are advantages to judicious lubricant selection, particularly to avoid evaporation and migration. I've heard that most guns will operate without any lubrication for a magazine or so, but I'm neither advocating or plan on testing that particular premise.

Best, Jon

I used it and liked it over a period of a few months. However, mpro lpx works fine, and given that its a cleaner and a lubricant, one bottle in a range bag serves 2 purposes.

I ended up buying a bottle to kick myself over $25 on an Amazon order for some add-on items I needed. Got it in today; seems a little more gelatinous than TW-25B. I put it on the slide rails of my M&P 9C that I had out and realized that the more gelatinous nature means it's more likely to get "squeezed" out along the backside, which the TW-25B didn't really do since the more liquid consistency made it more likely to smear itself out rather than get caught on a moving surface. I also noticed that the ALG 0000 is odorless and the transluscent purple color makes it a bit harder to see where you have it, unlike the TW-25B, which "hazes" parts white in an obvious manner.

I'll probably toy with it some more and continue doing some reading about long term performance and toxicity levels, but I think I'll probably end up going back to the non-toxic TW-25B in the long term. It's a bit more expensive, but easier to see, spreads a bit better, and I actually kinda like the smell of it.