Just out of curiosity, has anyone had a failure involving the aluminum threads that did not involve excessive torque?
Just out of curiosity, has anyone had a failure involving the aluminum threads that did not involve excessive torque?
I’ve read the C&H plate solves the lack of thread engagement issues with the stock MOS plate, as well as adding more support to the RMR. I’ve only read (and watched) good things about them, which is why I’ve been quietly waiting for them to come back in stock. This is the first I’ve heard of issues, mind you I haven’t spent hours researching them.
Im in it to win it now. I’ll get it installed (Vibra-Tite VC-3 in route as well) and report back with any issues. Unfortunately, my next real outing is a 2-gun match in March.
I've bookmarked the thread here about proper MOS RMR installation and was planning to go that route with vibratite. Had anyone had a recent RMR come loose with the Glock plate using that method? I'm not against the C&H plate but only if it's absolutely necessary. This is an indoor range and EDC gun, not going to be used for classes or racking the slide off the RMR.
Any advice on what to start looking at if I am having a lot of failures to extract with my Gen5 G19? Anyone else having this issue? Happens with any mag and using both S&B 115 and AE 147 ammo.
@MVS
This is from a post November '18; my early Gen 5 had about 3,205 rounds through it at the time:
"Sunday morning before I went to the range I disassembled and cleaned the frame parts. These were the part numbers on my November ‘17 purchase G19.5:
Trigger housing – 33667
Ejector – 30274
Connector – Dot
Trigger Bar – 39701
Slide Release – 33571-1
Locking Block – 7894-1
The binding I had felt a while ago in the trigger was much better but not gone. So I ordered from Brownell’s a replacement Trigger mechanism housing (33854) with the upgraded ejector (47021), as well as a new smooth Trigger with trigger bar (39702). When all these parts arrive I will do a 25c trigger job with my Dremel and some Flitz, install and see how they feel."
This was followed by this post, 12-5-18:
"Glock 19.5: Did 0.25c trigger job with Dremel and Flitz. Polished the Connector (Dot) and rear lug of the Firing pin. Removed and cleaned the Extractor.
Renewed/polished the following parts:
- New Trigger Mechanism Housing with Ejector 47208 (with the 47021 Ejector)
- New Trigger with trigger bar 39702 (polished)
- New Firing pin safety 33782 (polished)
New OEM Extended Slide Release 47249.
Reassembled with a dot of grease in the connector lip.
Subjectively the trigger press seems smoother, about the same weight. No hitch in the take up. Kinda like it used to feel. The extended slide release is easier to release in my hand. I can now hit the release with my thumb.
I had no parts left over, and no springs were launched into low-earth orbit. So far, so good."
If I'd a FTExtract issue with a Glock (any Gen), I'd look at:
-whether my EDP (extractor depressor plunger) was inserted in the correct direction; while doing that I'd ensure the EDP parts were ok;
-the extractor was in good shape and not somehow broken/chipped.
I'd typically be the only one working on my own Glocks and I'd likely know what I'd been recently touching/changing/working on.
If it was someone else's gun, besides looking at my suggested areas, I'd totally detail strip the Glock, examining all the parts; then reassemble, replacing any suspected wrong or broken parts; then test fire with known factory ammo (not the owner's unknown or suspect ammo).
In the end, I'd try to verify whether the problem was gun-related, ammo-related, or shooter-related.
Thanks for the tips guys. I have done nothing to this gun except have it milled for an RMR. It has sat for the last year because I had some health issues that prevented me from doing much at all during that time. I will have to go through my notebook but I would say I am only around 2,000 rounds on this gun. I guess I will tear it down and check everything out.