interesting. I made sure to get all B-W official parts for mine. hopefully I won't have that problem.
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interesting. I made sure to get all B-W official parts for mine. hopefully I won't have that problem.
80 PSI is on the higher end for residential. I was told it should be around 40-60 PSI. Do you have a pressure regulator where your city water comes into your house? If so you can reduce it by adjusting the regulator.
Important note for expansion tanks. Don't forget to precharge it with air to match your house water pressure. You can use a bike pump or air compressor and fill it from the fill valve on the bottom of the tank. So if your house pressure is 80 PSI, you should charge your tank to 80 PSI. That way, the water pressure against the internal diaphragm is equalized by the air pressure within the tank. If the tank's air pressure is too low, the diaphragm will be under greater stress causing premature failure. If the tank's pressure is too high, it will be harder for water to expand into the tank.
As the product manager for T&P relief valves at Watts from 2007 to 2011 (and thus being responsible for knowing everything about the valves and their applications), I have little to add to the already good advice posted. One point to add: when adjusting the pre-charge on a diaphragm expansion tank, it must be done so with no pressure on the wet side of the diaphragm. Easiest way to do this is to simply close the main valve in your house and open a faucet to bleed off the pressure.
A few other notes;
The valve will begin to relieve excess pressure slowly, starting with a trickle. However, the valve will open fast and fully under the far more dangerous over-temperature condition, thus the importance of having a discharge tube piped down from the outlet port of the valve (one elbow maximum, same size pipe as outlet port) to six inches above the floor.
Never allow a condition to persist that makes the valve discharge. We have seen examples of T&P valves becoming totally plugged with hard water deposits over long periods of discharge, creating an extremely dangerous condition. These valves are considered safety devices and as such, should be regularly tested and always replaced if they opened due to excess pressure or temperature.
And now for a fun video that was used as the basis for the Myth Busters episode;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pVQryuKMj8
...and if you can suffer though this one;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MT1MTEZREQk
Necropost...
My water heater pressure valve is dripping and sometimes trickling. Showers seem to increase flow. I’m getting about a quart a day.
I assumed the valve was bad, but now I wonder if it’s the external expansion tank.
What is the flowchart for diagnosing the actual issue? How do I determine my water pressure? (Public system, not a well.)
I will call a plumber if needed, but if I can do some prework to see if it’s really needed it would save me a bunch of money I would prefer not to spend right now.
To determine water pressure, buy and install a pressure gauge.
In my experience, the troubleshooting tree is, first check pressure. If it's excessive, do all of the following-
-Install new water shutoff valve at the house
-Install and adjust pressure regulator
-Install expansion tank
-Install new pressure relief valve
-Protect everything with a sediment filter
-Learn how to bleed entire system to avoid water hammer. Water hammer will destroy plumbing in seconds.
It installs on a hose bib connection;
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-...IWTG/100175467
Yeah, I own these too as the product manager.
Code or not (but its been code in almost all places for at least 5 years), you probably need an expansion tank.
Here is a decent explanation of what it is, and why its important:
https://yourproplumber.com/what-does...do_you_need_it
Basically, if you have very high pressure coming into the house, or have a pressure regulating valve controlling the water pressure entering the house (which is also required by code in most areas), you need an expansion tank.
They are not very expensive, and easy to add.
Bad thermostat and overheating can cause OP and dribbling as well . . .