What batteries brands are you using in your pistol red dots.
Sony, Panasonic, Duracell, Energizer, is there any difference?
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What batteries brands are you using in your pistol red dots.
Sony, Panasonic, Duracell, Energizer, is there any difference?
In my testing Duracell outlasted Energizer, Panasonic, IKEA (as a cheap option comparison) and Renata. All but the Renata showed a significant performance deficiency to where I refuse to use them in RMRs or any optic that has to be removed to replace the battery. The Renatas performed well but the Duracells still lasted longer.
Duracell...all the time.
Thanks for the tip!
Duracell Pro's. I got mine from Big Tex Outdoors, IIRC.
Cowan’s white paper tracks battery failures. Last I checked, Duracell had the lowest failure rate, so all I run is Duracell.
I think LED emitter/brand has something to do with this.
I am NOT advocating for their use but I have run energizer 2032's in eleven different holosun optics with zero issues since late 2017. My oldest optic is still on its original battery. I believe that's a 503 variant that is no longer produced. The solar panel is probably keeping this thing running but it works in low light/no light.
I think that the vast majority of people here are going to recommend duracell and that's probably the best way to go.
Are Duracell wafer-format batteries better than their AA/AAA type? For me it seemed that in the cylinder-format they are prone to leak acid earlier than Energizer.
Thinking out loud, that may have been all alkaline ... maybe lithium is a different story?
I’m not seeing an individual tracking, just a general statement of his tracking:
Page 17 of this (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/fil...Use2028129.pdf) edition states:
“It is worth noting that multiple battery failures occurred during testing on multiple MRDS, however all noted battery failures were with Energizer and Sony brand batteries and each failure was well before the quoted battery life of the optic they were mounted in. Duracell brand batteries have only failed when charge was exhausted to date.”
Looks like Duracell has medical device line too. I wonder what the differences are between standard, procell, and medical.
So it looks like the batteries of choice are:
Coin Style batteries it’s Duracell
CR123 it’s Panasonic
AA & AAA it’s Energizer
The child-safe Duracells with the bitter coating will not power my RMR. They do work in my H1, T2, and P2.
Thanks to the information in this thread, just got a shipment of Duracell 1632s as replacements, and will run them as my default choice forward.
Best, Jon
So I take it the concensus is Duracell is best?
I've now run cheap chinesium, Panasonic, and Duracell. Each has gone right at 4 months of daily use, setting 8-10 (Swampfox Justice).
The Duracell is, so far, going longer past the low battery indicator (other 2 were 5 days, this one's still going at 8 days past).
Energizer possibly any better? Or is Duracell the top?
For 2032 I only use Maxell made in Japan.
I bought a new Aimpoint H2 this week, it arrived Wednesday and I installed the Aimpoint supplied Duracell 2032. Picked up the gun last night and no dot. I replaced it with a Renata and dot is on again. Just goes to show that nothing is infallible and that’s why I have extra batteries stashed here and there.
I pulled the battery and put it on my tester. At first it showed good but quickly started falling. Might be a little nervous that the sight is drawing too much but time will tell. My wife is a diabetic and wears an insulin pump, we have been shocked at how many bad batteries come straight out of the package. Duracell and Energizer lithium both.
I've seen at least one review/test in which Energizer batteries failed under recoil, and Duracell was recommended.
I can't point to it right now, but if you google around you might find it.
I had this problem with child-safe Duracells in Apple AirTags. I called Duracell customer service, they explained that they updated the bitter coating to one the does not degrade it battery performance. They sent me free replacements for the six I purchased. I would not recommend scratching off the coating, just ask for the upgraded ones.
Well, I just switched to Duracell's industrial line (Procell) for CR2032's. No coating removal needed.
Besides NOT being saddled with the coating, they have the added benefit of as much as an extra 40 mAh capacity (265 mAh) vs regular commercial Duracells (225-230 mAh depending on country of origin) as well as a slightly wider service temperature range, and if you have a business account with an industrial supply such as Grainger, they work out to about the same price.
Is there a Procell cr1632? Searched, didnt find one.