I'm slowly working up to painting my ak, was curious to see what other peoples rifles look like before I take the "plunge".
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I'm slowly working up to painting my ak, was curious to see what other peoples rifles look like before I take the "plunge".
Just out of curiosity, why are you painting yours?
I painted my work gun for a couple of deployments, so I understand the desire to paint your stuff.
The only time the rifle gets used is for hiking or going shooting with a buddy so I just don't see why not. I wasn't allowed to while in the marines so I guess the why if got the better of me
I'd like to hear tips and tricks, too. My can of brake cleaner is empty, or I'd have started today. For me, the "why" is that it's a fun project. Nothing meaningful...
Read this: http://www.lightfighter.net/topic/pa...he-book-of-pat
and maybe this: http://www.lightfighter.net/topic/th...-thread?page=1
Doc you have to be a member
It's worth joining up just for that info. Just be sure to follow the instructions in your activation email and you're good to go. I painted a rifle using directions there and learned quite a bit from the discussion, which meanders from prep to the actual painting to the effective use of camouflage. The painted rifle thread has numerous examples for inspiration.
If you want me to go through the process I used on mine, let me know.
I'm pending acceptance and should be good to go
Thanks, if you want to share your process, I wouldn't mind learning another way.
The process in the first LF link takes about 20 min of prep, 20-30min of spraying, and a little drying time to be shoot-ready (though leaving it alone for some curing is only helpful). It's also designed to provide a camouflage paint job, not the "my gun looks cool" preferred by the form > function crowd, though it certainly possible for both to exist at the same time, on the same gun.
The looooong part of the thread is folks sharing their results, variations, and tweaks.
Most folks that do this sort of thing professionally will tell you that the prep is the most important part. They're right, but I feel that spending a little extra $$ to buy Averoe paint is worthwhile. That said, Krylon and Rustoleum work just fine.
Mine's....ugly. But it has a nice personality. ;)
Attachment 2269
Is it weird I think that rifle looks awesome?
It's a "lived-in" look....
That paint's 5+yrs old, and I'm glad that a lot of the patterning is plain 'ol worn off; it was too linear. Now the thing's simply just "not black," plus scrapes, bumps, a 5m drop, lube and carbon....and I've let it be. If I ever get to the point that I'm worried about shooting it from a hide, I'll blotch it in the appropriate spots to break up the outline. I've looked at ti through NVGs, next to a stock USMC M4; the latter sticks out like a turd in a punch bowl, by comparison, so just getting rid of black goes a loooong way.
Elsewise...you can see the raised portions that have a bit of a sheen....? Combo of 1) paint applied too thick, and 2) polishing from usage. You'll read "several light coats." Take it seriously, I bungled it more than a bit.
I'm replacing the rail in the near future, so I'll hit that and the other TIB stuff shown (ancillary equipment's changed since original paint) to kinda-sorta match, and spritz it with matte clear-coat....and then I'll leave it be while I shoot it until I have to replace the barrel again.
Very nice. If I were to go the paint (or get painted) route, it would be something like this.
The gunsmith I use locally has some nice "dirty camo" variations that are not uniform in pattern and melt the edges nicely. It's amazing how just breaking up the outline/edges can give it the "camo" look without having to go full digital/multi/name your camo variant route.
This is definitely a paint job I'd like over the more patterned jobs. It looks "real", if that makes sense.
I volunteered my carbine as a guinea pig for a new Duracote spray setup at the joint where I used to work. As it turned out, there were some initial problems, one of which was that the work area was way too hot in the dead of summer, and so the stuff flaked off here and there.
He offered to redo it, but I said "Nah, it looks cool hanging on the wall in the shop. It looks like it's been in the $#!+." :D
ETA: Wow, that pic is so old that my VFG is "as far rearward as you can get it without interfering with mag changes." That's like the carbine equivalent of parachute pants or leg warmers.
I don't recommend camouflaging the back of your front sight post.
Suppose the enemy is sneaking up behind you? Your front sight could give away your position. :|
I got a pretty good look at Pat's rifle last time he was here. Aervoe is definitely much tougher that Krylon.
Aervoe works well for me. If you follow the Lightfighter directions it goes well. Light misting coats. Camo net or paper with irregular holes held over rifle work well.
Is aervoe available at any chain stores or is ordering online the best bet?
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Usually able to find it in tactical toy-stores if you live near a military base that supports ground combat element troops, or schools related to that. For example, I live near Quantico, and Quantico Tactical carries it at the Q-Town store.
Otherwise....
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...s-prod126.aspx
Maybe it's my monitor, but those color-tiles don't provide a good representation of the colors available. Sand is an actual light tan, not as grey as shown, and is first-choice as a basecoat, though the "Earth Yellow" is probably also good if it's the dirty, Gulden's Spicy Mustard-y color I remember it being.
Mine's Sand, originally stiped with Earth Brown (also not shown well, it's a no-kidding flat chocolate brown) through a sniper-veil, then other spots with a fishnet stocking (larger openings than the veil; told the cashier: "I sure hope I get the seam straight when I put these on..."), then misted over all with MC Green.
bt91, when your registration goes through, don't forget to post an intro in the Intro thread before posting anywhere else. You've been briefed.... ;)
Ditto. Don't, don't kitten that up.Quote:
don't forget to post an intro in the Intro thread before posting anywhere else.
Ehhh, the dogs'll bark at you for posting without having followed the instructions you'd have received in the registration confirmation email....up until you post an intro. You can ignore it all the way up until you decide to stop lurking, is all.
It's the internet, they can't affect your arrest record or credit rating. ;)
Yes but it's awkward on the lie detector when they ask if you've accessed a computer system in violation of policy and you have to say yes...
So many people seem to have variants of desert camo/FDE/tan based patterns, but I live in conifer country. If I ever decide to do this I'd almost certainly be better off with something closer to CADPAT TW colors (Canadian temperate woodland).
Mine are mainly green/brown splattered. South Kackalacky has a dearth of deserts, which is fine by me. :)
I thought mine would be mostly green and brown but the more I looked around I saw a lot more tan. I guess I never realized how light Prarie grass is or how much tan there is in the mountains.
I hit my recce with Krylon and employed a mesh laundry bag to break up the profile. Nothing fancy, but only took a few mins and only cost a few bucks. YMMV.
I used the krylon camo series on mine. I started with a tan base coat and then cut/tore random holes in a sheet of newspaper to try to replicate cammie netting. After draping it across the rifle and hitting it with random strokes of OD green and brown, I pulled the paper off only to find krylon's idea of camo brown was too poopish. I misted over the uncovered rifle with OD to try to tone down the brown and tie the whole pattern together but the brown still sucked to I redid it with just OD over tan. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/14/ume4yruj.jpg
You can still see some brown but I changed some parts and need to redo it eventually anyway.
Krylon, or Aervoe.........or combo of them? Don't remember.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/SCARAOR1.jpg
It can be as simple of elaborate as you choose, and are patient enough for.
I have moved into DuraCoat and airbrushing as another hobby associated with guns, but don't take it too seriously. Still, I have learned a bit over the years, and at the end of the day, what you want out of it will determine what you put into it. My serious guns get serious attention from professionals. My toys get home DuraCoat. My practice projects get a lot of rattle can, then some DuraCoat (maybe)......
That looks great Sean, I just did a base of khaki krylon and streaks of of green. I left my pistol grip brown and my wood lower hand guard wood, not the prettiest but it works.
That makes sense but quick clarification - does some rattle can treatment render a serious gun less serious? In other words, I don't care enough about camo to pony up for professional attention...but I don't have enough fighting rifles to relegate any of then to "toy" status. Any reason not to krylon, eg, my one and only ar?
Rattle can treatment versus professional grade application of the epoxy-based "serious" finishes to me means ability withstand, and sustain it's qualities under what I would describe as "serious" conditions.......
Not every gun I own (or even close) has "serious" paint applied. I don't define "serious" as in the nature of a gun's task and conditions........but in the nature of the task and conditions to which it may find itself applied. Only 3 guns have pro paint jobs on them..........1 carbine, 1 pistol, 1 AT&T rifle........
Honestly? Rattle can is still good for me, for 99% of my uses, and 99% of my guns that would even get paint at all. But you see.......I got this airbrush thingy, and a compressor, and there are only so many bike tires and footballs that need the compressor.............and well, ummmmm......so the thing is............yeah. Rattle can is fine.
And it doesn't have to be pretty unless YOU want it to be pretty. When push comes to shove, if it's stupid, but it works.........it ain't stupid!
The above rattle can pic was simply to show what can be done with rattle can, at home, and yuuup..........you can do it. I just wanted to see if I could pull it off. And I did. Once. Next three tries were epic failures.
And as some have already stated, the pro's.........the real pro's........tell you prep is everything. I have not found anything to be contrary to their belief's in my own humble foray into painting guns. However, again.......what do YOU want out of it? I've had(have) some ugly ass paint jobs on guns. Ugly all day. (See above epic failures). And they still look "ugly". But I also don't care. They met my goal of having paint on them. Other guns I wanted functional, in more ways than just paint, requiring expertise, skill, and attributes I don't possess. Prep. Proper tools. Climate controlled conditions. PATIENCE! Paint/epoxy that would last, corrosion resistant, etc.
I currently have a botched paint job going to a pro, for pro application of a pro finish. Why? Cause I kittened it up, and while I didn't "like" the color scheme before.........I hate it now because it looks like a bag of smashed buttholes epoxied themselves to my full custom, built from the ground up, and spent way too much money pistol..............that I buggered up in one late night "good idea fairy" session. I'm not leaving a legacy heirloom gun to my midget looking like that........especially since I made it that way!!!
No more room in the safe. And I will not buy another safe for this house. Assuming I live long enough to move to a new home in the next 4-5 years, we are doing a walk in vault, simply because a safe that will hold all that is stashed not in the safe + what is in the safe would hide 90% of what I own.
More interested in taking a finished basement family room and turning it into a walk in party palace of guns, bullets, reloading benches, flat screen TV's, Wifi, Bluetooth, couches, comfy chairs, and guns where I can see them, appreciate them, and likely even shoot from inside said gun party palace vault.
That's just me.