Dimpled shoulders on .223 cases

I’m reloading..223 / 5.56 lately, and have been getting a lot of dimpled shoulders when reforming them. It doesn’t happen all the time, but probably at least 50% of the time. It may be correlated to certain headstamps, but still isn’t 100% consistent then.
I’m using Lee dies and Lee case lube that I allow to dry for at least 20-30 minutes. I follow the instructions on the case lube, and don’t put any on the shoulder (I assume to avoid exactly what I’m experiencing). I heavily lube the inside of the case mouth, and lightly lube the outside surface of the mouth and the case body.
Anyone have any ideas about what’s causing this and how I can avoid it?

Photos to illustrate the issue:
Attachment 115567
Attachment 115568

And how I lube the cases:
Attachment 115569

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GyroF-16

I’m reloading..223 / 5.56 lately, and have been getting a lot of dimpled shoulders when reforming them. It doesn’t happen all the time, but probably at least 50% of the time. It may be correlated to certain headstamps, but still isn’t 100% consistent then.

---

Are you trimming, and if you are do you chamfer the inside rim of the case mouth?

Edit: is this happening on resizing or seating?

It's been my experience when I see dimpled shoulders, it's been lube related, as in, "too much." Lube only the case walls. Dry lube, like motor mica, on the necks.

My 0.02.

From the look of your cases you’re using way too much lube. I have learned to only lightly lube the case body, you can’t see it and barely feel it. I pass an appropriate size brush lightly lubed through the case neck prior to sizing to prevent the expander button from hanging up while being extracted.

I would spray out the inside of the die, there is probably a bunch of lube that got pushed around in there and wound up on the shoulder.
And as mentioned, that seems like a buttload of lube. I have never used the Lee lube, and have converted to the home brew lanolin.
I also do not do anything special on the necks, I do the spray and then roll them around in a plastic shoebox, I am sure the necks seem to get enough.
If you mix something, this is also why you want the 99% alcohol, you do not want to leave any moisture behind. I also mix a very light lanolin ratio, just put enough in that it looks like a beer that is probably not very good, like Bud or Coors Light.
How are you cleaning after sizing? I would have some concern on getting all that neck lube out of the case.
Also, since you are using Lee dies, if you do get a stuck case it is fairly easy to pound it out with the decap-expander rod. If you are using a progressive you can do this in a few steps (I run twice for rifle rounds, size one the 1100 and load on a 650).
Also since you are using Lee dies, know that Squirrel Daddy has expanders for .223, and they are Strong Like Bull.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rick R

From the look of your cases you’re using way too much lube. I have learned to only lightly lube the case body, you can’t see it and barely feel it. I pass an appropriate size brush lightly lubed through the case neck prior to sizing to prevent the expander button from hanging up while being extracted.

---

^^^ This.

I use the old school RCBS case lube pads with their case lube II stuff i think its called. Lightly roll several cases across the pad, touch the very end of the neck to the pad with a slight twist to lube both inside and out, and go. When the pad has had more lube and its going on semi-heavy I often skip lubing a round or two or three after each heavily lubed on, based on feel and if they start feeling too dry, if so, back it out and give it a little slick-um.

From back in the bad old days of the original RCBS case lube, I clean all the lube off by hand with a rag and rubbing alcohol. I rarely super-clean all the cases every single time they are loaded, I never cleaned them except wiping them off with a rag if dirty for the first 25 or so years of loading. I had friends clean a few lots, then got a tumbler, then got tired of messing with it. Wet cleaning if grungy or just a wipe off is all they get now.

Your sizing die probably has a buildup. Clean it.

Don’t put lube on the outside of the neck. Put a very small amount inside the neck. Put “enough” on the walls, but not near the shoulder.

I use Dillon spray lube on the entire case. Never seen that. I'm not using carbide dies either if that matters.

Those are indeed "lube" dents in the shoulder. You are using far too much lube on the outside of your cases. It is not related in any way to the case brand. One thing you can do is wipe off the case shoulder and neck with a paper towel. Enough lube will remain on the case neck and shoulder for sizing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mmc45414

I would spray out the inside of the die, there is probably a bunch of lube that got pushed around in there and wound up on the shoulder.
And as mentioned, that seems like a buttload of lube. I have never used the Lee lube, and have converted to the home brew lanolin.
I also do not do anything special on the necks, I do the spray and then roll them around in a plastic shoebox, I am sure the necks seem to get enough.
If you mix something, this is also why you want the 99% alcohol, you do not want to leave any moisture behind. I also mix a very light lanolin ratio, just put enough in that it looks like a beer that is probably not very good, like Bud or Coors Light.
How are you cleaning after sizing? I would have some concern on getting all that neck lube out of the case.
Also, since you are using Lee dies, if you do get a stuck case it is fairly easy to pound it out with the decap-expander rod. If you are using a progressive you can do this in a few steps (I run twice for rifle rounds, size one the 1100 and load on a 650).
Also since you are using Lee dies, know that Squirrel Daddy has expanders for .223, and they are Strong Like Bull.

---

OMG!! Can we please get a ‘so-to-speak’?

Try Hornady One Shot case spray lubricant.

That's more lube than I use when necking cases up/down to form a different cartridge. :eek:

I use spray lube on pistol cases that are headed for the 550. For rifle brass I still use my ancient RCBS lube pad so that the necks don't get lubed. If the sizer/decapping pin feels sticky, I will put a small amount of lube inside one case neck, and that's usually enough for however many rounds I'm loading.

I would also say to just go shoot the dimpled ones and they will not be dimpled anymore.

i've been using this Lyman neck lube kit for ages now. Works just fine.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012867486?pid=256493

Also, don't wanna dogpile on your loading process, but... :cool:
I would recommend backing off the crimp die a little. I am presuming this is a Lee crimp die, and that thing is really powerful and it is pretty easy to dent the bullets. Not safety related, but maybe a accuracy detriment.
I say this might be a bit too much, since the collet is leaving marks:

Attachment 115643

Thanks to all for the replies and advice…

I clearly don’t yet really know what I’m doing reloading rifle ammo….
After multiple stuck cases with 300 BLK, I started lubing the heck out of the case necks, which almost eliminated the problem.
Ironically, I had 2 stuck cases during that .223 reloading session where I got the dimpled shoulders (which happened during reforming, not bullet seating).

I’m now planning to change my process, at least for .223/5.56:
- try Imperial dry lube inside the neck
- try Imperial wax on the case body
- adjust my “Factory Crimp” die so it’s not leaving visible marks on the neck
(thanks @mmc45414 - I didn’t know any better. You should see my 300 BLK case necks. Learning has occurred.)

I don't crimp my .223/5.56 ammo. It runs fine in my Mini-14 and bolt rifle. I think that's pretty common. You might want to check it out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GyroF-16

I’m now planning to change my process, at least for .223/5.56:
- try Imperial dry lube inside the neck
- try Imperial wax on the case body

---

I know there are a lotta good products, but that darn lanolin (what the Dillon stuff is made from) sure is slick.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GyroF-16

- adjust my “Factory Crimp” die so it’s not leaving visible marks on the neck
(thanks @mmc45414 - I didn’t know any better. You should see my 300 BLK case necks. Learning has occurred.)

---

I am not so smart, just am experienced, I have a rather large quantity of loaded rounds I kinda butchered before I learned... :cool:
These look worse IRL:
Attachment 115653

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mmc45414

I know there are a lotta good products, but that darn lanolin (what the Dillon stuff is made from) sure is slick.



I am not so smart, just am experienced, I have a rather large quantity of loaded rounds I kinda butchered before I learned... :cool:
These look worse IRL:
Attachment 115653

---

Yeah…. That’s pretty much what all my 300 BLK reloads currently look like.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GyroF-16

Yeah…. That’s pretty much what all my 300 BLK reloads currently look like.

---

I wouldn't sweat it, just back off a bit in the future.
You might experiment with one from seating before crimping. If you can push it against the edge of the workbench and it doesn't move, maybe just let the crimp die touch off lightly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Trigger

OMG!! Can we please get a ‘so-to-speak’?

Try Hornady One Shot case spray lubricant.

---

Thanks, @Trigger

My wife got me some for Christmas, but I’d stayed with the supply of Lee lube that I’d learned to use…
Tried the Hornady One Shot, applied in a gallon ziplock, then a quick application to the case mouth with a q-tip in a reloading tray.
…it’s like buttah - never had such smooth reloading with rifle cases before this.

It definitely smells “oily”, but my wife was on the couch 6-9 feet from me while I used it, and I got no objections, so I’ll cal it a win.

Thanks again!