How do you like the LNL?
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I haven't been able to compare a 550 vs a 650 both with case feeders, but I've got a close buddy with a standard 550 who is routinely quite butt hurt my loading sessions are about 1/3 of his. ;)
I'm not ravensfan87, but I love mine. Like any other press, it has a few things that aren't perfect (primer slide can be a bit finicky, and mine's timing was *slightly* off from the factory), but once I got those minor things sorted out, it's been running smoothly and quickly for me. I've never had a Dillon, so I may just not know what I'm missing, but when I was doing research, it sure seemed like buying the Hornady meant you were basically getting the equivalent of a 650 for the price of a 550.
Edit: also, the L-n-L quick change bushings are REALLY nice; I can swap from loading 9mm to .380 really quickly. The longest part of the process is changing the powder charge; if I had two separate powder measures, it'd be under a minute.
Crap. Well there goes a few hundred bucks.
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I loaded my first 20k rounds on a Lee Pro 1000. It makes fine ammo and was faster than my 550 since it has a case feeder and it ships ready to load 9 for $189. Caliber changes were easier than the 550.
Its weakness was priming. Jams were very frequent, and a jam on a progressive press demands a lot of discipline to prevent a squib or double charge.
Very true, however, when flammable solids are kept in a closed container and reach their ignition temperatures, they become "bombs".
If I'm in the vicinity of smokeless powder reaching its ignition temperature I'd much prefer it to be NOT contained in any sort of container capable of generating significant pressures before the container fails.
I guess the question is, under what circumstances do our powders become exposed to ignition temperatures?
We're not smoking in the room. We don't load in a room with any open flame ignition sources. Etc.
The likely scenario for powder being accidentally ignited is in an unintentional house fire, which could have numerous causes.
If that's the case I'd much prefer the powder to be in the absolute weakest container possible. Rapid burning beats violent container failure every day of the week, for me.
IMHO, it's not the flammability of the material, it's the ability for the burning material to release its energy in a non-violent a way as possible.
My powders sit in their plastic jugs on the floor. That's what I'm most comfortable with.
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I really like my Lock-n-Load AP as well, although I have only loaded a few thousand rounds on it so far. I was able to trade in my old (and long disused) Hornady Pro-Jector + $200 to get it, since the primer tube on the Pro-Jector became unusable and Hornady hasn't made them in a looooong time (and to be honest, it was never exactly a trouble-free press). But, like you, I've never had a Dillon machine so I don't know what I might be missing. I did look very hard at the Dillon before finding out about the Hornady trade-in program and they certainly looked well built. I would probably own one now based on my experience with the Pro-Jector had I not found out about the trade-in program.
Thus far the priming system on the LnL has worked flawlessly for me. However, like yours, my press was out of time from the factory and needed a little tweaking to get it just right. Fortunately, this is pretty straight forward on the LnL. Shortly after setting it up, I discovered Inline Fabrication. Boy, that was an expensive discovery! But the quality of their products and the improvements they make to the basic press are impressive.
As to the hassle of switching powder charges for different calibers, have you considered just buying a dedicated metering insert for each caliber you load? Since they just pop out of the powder measure drum with the press of a button, you could have one set up for your favorite charge for a given caliber (mark the powder and charge setting right on the insert) and keep the dedicated metering insert with the dies for that caliber. If you are using the same powder for both calibers, you don't even need to empty the hopper to change the inserts. Just don't pull the insert and let the drum rotate to the downward position or you are going to empty the entire hopper onto the floor! In fact, Hornady makes a powder measure draining insert that works on exactly that principal, but I haven't bought one.
So far I am just loading 9mm (have other dies and shell plates from the Projector for other calibers which I had converted to work on the LnL, but haven't reloaded anything else yet), but my plan is once I start loading other calibers I will just buy a dedicated metering insert for each caliber and keep that insert with the dies. I've been very impressed with the consistency of the charges thrown by the LnL powder measure, but they are fiddly to get dialed in initially. I would hate the thought of having to re-calibrate one every time I changed calibers.
ETA: Almost as soon as I hit post, I realized the problem with my suggestion. The difference in case lengths is probably enough to require re-setting the powder measure die-depth to fully actuate the measure with the shorter .380 cartridge. And if you are using a PTX expander, that would definitely not just transfer right over without adjusting the die seating depth. So, eh, I guess my suggestion on the metering insert may not be much help. It all hinges on whether or not the .380 case still actuates the measure far enough to drop a consistent charge at the same height as the 9mm setting and you are not using a PTX expander.
Haven't seen this posted yet,
Unitek Micrometer Powder Bar Kit
Best powder upgrade to my 550, adjustments are right on.
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1231
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Fogot to add this as well:
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1389
Machined tool head and clamping system for 550/650.
Very solid and no wiggle/play in the tool head. I use it for 556 and 300blk
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Love it. I have never really had to many issues execpt for the timing was off when I first got it. Other than that it has ran smooth. I have more than 10,000 rounds on it by now. I have only worn out one retainer spring so far. But the press comes with extra ones.
I have been doing it for 4-5 years. And the guy that taught me to reload has been doing it for 25+ years. Never had a house blow up yet. Any kind of powder can ignite in the right circumstances. But I feel confident about how I store it and never has failed me yet. Also I might need to point out it is not a small gun safe. It is about 9x10 roughly. I had it built in when we had the house built.
It does align better and helps control the veriance of caol. Coal set to 2.25" and with stock head it will vary 2.25-2.28"+ with the flex in the stock tool head.
The Dillon tool head does flex, run the head to the top of the stroke and watch your tool head. It will bobble/flex. I use it with rifle ammo to keep the coal more precise between rounds. For plinking it does not matter, for precision it does. A single stage press has the die direct threaded to the top of the press, no flex period. Dillons tool head slide into the press and the have a retaining pin, this plate and kit actually are bolted into place and has no vertical/horizontal play. It is a solid mount just like the single stage presses ie rcbs, lee, forster.
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3 100ths" of variance? Sure you don't mean thousandths? That seems HUGE. My pistol reload COALs only vary +/- 5 thousandths with all stock stuff. Am I missing something?
Anyway, copy re the tool plate mechanics. I've always kinda assumed that while there was some extra play, it was reasonably "consistent" play, meaning it still "bottomed out" in the same place each time. I get long range guys, Palma shooters, etc... might need more refinement. I am NO expert in the precision reloading game. ;) Just thought I'd ask.
Interestingly though, as an aside, a buddy was having some COAL issues with his 650 that, in the end, appear to being caused by a Redding seating die. He was getting up to 15 thousandths of variance that eventually was eliminated (or greatly reduced) by going back to the standard stock Dillon die. (shrug)
BTW, this is a good thread.
Yes that should have been 2.38"
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There certainly is some flex in all the tool head design presses. I have not yet ever loaded LR rifle ammo on one, so I have no experience to speak of. However, a buddy here on the forum who is a better LR shooter than I am uses his 650 for exactly that purpose, and he has no trouble producing extremely accurate ammo. I know other guys in the same boat as well. Benchrest? Not so much, but easily capable of .5 moa. Maybe their tool heads flex less than some other out there, who knows.
What digital scales is everyone using?
Except the firemen. They're not replaceable.
They would much rather 5, 8, perhaps 20 or more lbs of powder ignite while in a, now malleable, heat weakened plastic jug as opposed to a steel container that will turn into tiny shards of extremely hot and extremely sharp projectiles moving at significant speed. Kinda like a bomb.
I hope you and your wife are out, but if your not someone is going to go get you.
Even if you ARE out someone is going in to go in in order to save your property, irreplaceable family treasures and memories.
Store it how you want, of course.
You're doing no one any favors sealing it in a steel container.
Besides, if a steel container is what saves you from accidentally igniting several pounds of powder, a LOT of bad decisions were made prior to that point.
Not trying to be a jerk, I assure you. Just something to think about.
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Just to show a humbler side (and much slower), here's how I temp'rig my Lee Classic Turret Press when I need to reload. The press is mounted to a couple pieces of pine and then the whole thing is clamped to my desk. I don't shoot anywhere near the volume most seem to do on this board, and the roughly 150/hour in 9mm works for me. This morning I'm loading up mock defense loads to vet my new P320s. I'm using bulk Speer 124gr Gold Dots over 4.7gr of SR7625 loaded to the same COL (1.120") and crimp as my normal carry load at roughly half the price. I don't use these for carry, but just a way to ensure the function and feed. 4.7gr was the most accurate in my M&P, so I'm returning to that load as a starting point.
I've just started the setup to reload .223/5.56 and need to rummage around in my wood shop to find some longer screws for my powder drop. Lee ships the double disk set as part of the Classic Turret kit but without the two plastic runners and longer screws.
Attachment 5850
Upgraded from a MyBalance iWeigh 201 that seemed a bit erratic to a GemPro 250 and quite pleased with it.
Attachment 5852
This handles most of my tasks:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/175...grain-capacity
An older version of this does the rest
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/496...r-110-220-volt
But this is my favorite reloading tool.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...1DL&ref=plSrch
Not to change the subject, but you can reload and shoot in China?
My shop, panorama view. Cabinet/laundry tub/wet vac on rear wall, Dillon 1050/Mr. Bullet Feeder/Mark 7 Autodrive on left wall. Back wall is custom super heavy duty storage, 9' wide. Single stage Lee press and Dillon 550 on right wall. A full set of kitchen cabinetry left over from a remodel is used for storage and holding up the "U" shaped bench arrangement. Bench top is 2 layers of 3/4" plywood.
Attachment 5854
Single Stage Lee Classic Cast back right wall.
Attachment 5857
For weighing charges, I prefer the RCBS Chargemaster. I did all of my precision rifle stuff on there for years, and quite a bit of 44 mag as well. It is slow, but tough to beat. At one point I had two of them running at the same time, but I've moved away from weighing every charge.
Dillon 550 Right Front Wall:
Attachment 5858
Toolheads for 1050 and 550. I can run 9 & 223 on the 1050/MBF/Mark 7 for volume, then lower volume on the 550: , 40S&W, 30 Carbine, 300 AAC Blackout, 30-30, 308 and 380. Note Dillon RT1200 size/trim on the back right for rifle calibers on the 1050 or 550.
Attachment 5859
Thumler-B Tumbler, Bras Sorter, 8 level 400 watt dehydrator.
Attachment 5860
Harbor Freight 1 1/4 cu ft cement mixer for larger batches (30 lbs is all I can dry at the moment).
Attachment 5861
How much brass/water/media does that cement mixer handle?
I gave up on finding a digital scale for under $200.00 that was reliable and repeatable. I use an Ohaus 10-10 for my precision rifle cartridges. I throw .4-.5 grains light and trickle up on the balance. The Ohaus is sensitive enough to see the difference from one particle of powder.