Originally Posted by
KevH
...are you trying to bump this thread? I'm confused why there are a bunch of basically blank posts.
All 1911s and 2011's have a firing pin stop. It's what holds the firing pin in place. Look at a parts diagram. It's the part you see when you look at the back of the firing pin in the middle of the rear of the slide. The firing pin stop on a 1911 is considered by most to be a wear item. It get's hit on both sides of the firing pin hole. One side gets smacked by the hammer and the other gets the firing pin smacked into it by the firing pin spring. It also gets vibrated by the extractor depending on the tolerance. That's a lot of abuse for one little part to take. They're all going to develop a crack eventually if the gun is shot enough, but the reality is that 95% of people don't shoot a 1911 enough to crack them.
The reason most people replace them early with an EGW or similar is typically either:
a) They want a super tight fit to hold the extractor in place so it has more tension on the side it should
b) They want a reduce radius to slow the slide down a smidge so they can run a lighter recoil spring
c) They're milling the slide for BoMar, Novak, Heinie, or similar sights and they want a shorter one and don't feel like cutting the factory one and know they'll probably get the benefit of a and b
One very very competent well known smith I knew just used the factory ones and thought a and b were dumb and c was for lazy smiths, but he was all about running the heaviest recoil spring possible. Of the dozens of 1911's I've owned I've had plenty of both types and I can't tell you I see much of a difference. I have one gun setup to shoot really light 185gr SWC loads and it has a Chuck Warner FPS with very little radius and a heavier hammer spring which allows me to run a light recoil spring to have it cycle reliably (the softest shooting 45 ACP I've ever shot).
The Springfield Mil-Spec, like it's name implies, is basically at its core a commercial variation of a late GI-spec 1911A1 with slanted serrations like they AMU slides had and taller 3 dot sights. It's a good base 1911 to play around with. Don't go changing a bunch of parts (definitely don't change any yourself since you don't know what you are doing or how the pistol works yet). When you ask, "What 1911 should I buy? you are basically asking, "What car should I buy?" Everyone has an opinion and they all have their pluses and minuses. For an entry level gun in 2024 the Turkish Tisas guns are actually pretty decent. My advice would be to skip the Mil Spec and buy a Garrison or Ronin if you are getting a Springfield. It will be a much more pleasant gun to shoot.
The grip safety on a 1911 works by blocking the back of the trigger bow. It isn't there for looks. They all have them and unless the guns been messed with they are all functional. The thumb safety block the sear and holds the grip safety in place (and does a couple other things).
I saw on another post you talking about GunBlue490 on YouTube. He seems like a nice guy and reminds me of my now deceased uncle so I find him pleasant to listen to. Unfortunately, a lot of what he says is dead wrong. Hilton Yam and Dean Caputo are a couple of the only folks that have decent 1911 video content out there.
The 1911 has been around for 113 years which means there is a 113 years of nonsense and bad info floating around out there. Be careful what you listen to.