You are correct.
Printable View
Yes, the Loctite 248 semi-solid stick (kind of like a giant Chapstik). Stays put on the threads, no risk of dripping into slide parts in applications with thru-holes, stores well (won’t dry out) and works extremely well on the specific screw thread sizes and materials commonly used in RDS installations.
Properly torqued and witness-marked installations with in-spec, clean screws and threads allows immediate use of the optic, in my experience. If there is oil contamination, or if you can’t witness mark the screws, an 8 hour cure time is advised.
You can also accelerate the cure and the strength with use of an appropriate Loctite accelerant. This data sheet has details of the strengths, cure times, and the spec for the accelerant.
https://static.rapidonline.com/pdf/565354_v1.pdf
My agency approves both open and closed emitter in the following brands -
Trijicon (RMR, SRO, etc)
Holosun (507, 508T, 509 etc)
Aimpoint ACRO
Leupold Delta Point Pro
I typically recommend the smaller reticle sizes but leave it up to the cops. Only one of us currently uses an RMR set up (me) as cops are cheap bastards and balk at the idea of dropping around a grand for an RMR equipped pistol.
I am running a Gen 5 19 with Holosun 508T on a CHPW milled slide.
Matt
I've used a lot of 248 (and had to remove a lot of it too in shuffling optics around at first). Pretty happy with it. A little goes a long way.
My plate came loose twice.
I degreased the slide both times, applied VC3 to the threads. I allowed the VC3 to cure and then torqued to 12 inch lbs the first time and 15 the second time.
The optic came loose from the mount twice. I degreased and applied VC3 to the optic screw. I do not currently have a torque spec on the optic mount bolt/screw as the piece of shit C&H plate starts to deform at 11 inch lbs. I don't know who thought that a steel clamp against a very thin aluminum dovetail was a good idea...
I really like my 509 but man, the mounting options leave alot to be desired.
I've seen several 509Ts come loose recently. All of them were mounted with VC3 or mounted by the user without following our instructions.
I think VC3 is only marginally effective, and in many cases I think the user is better off not using any threadlocker as the VC3, if applied to thickly or too much can act as a gasket allowing vibration and ultimately loosening of the screw under the forces of recoil. I also think the reason people got away with it in direct milled applications is because many of the quality direct mill options protect the optic through the cut itself and therefore there is less force upon the screws.
Loctite 248 is the way. VC3 is the devil Bobby Bucher.
As for the mounting spec, I've been using 15 in/lbs with Loctite 248 and after hundreds of rounds there were no further issues. I'm also running an aluminum 509T plate on my Glock 45 (and I've been running it for months) with no issues. It was (as were the other 509Ts I recently installed on M&Ps) torqued to 20in/lbs on the rail and appeared to cause no problems. Time and round count will tell.
What are you using to degrease the screws prior to using loctite and installing?
If available I’ll use Gun Scrubber or Powder Blast, but usually isopropyl alcohol wipes. I use toothpicks to get them into the slide/plate threads and wrap the screws ans use a bit to twist them.
This is a copy of my post from the General Holosun Optics thread -
I won't get back to the range for a couple more weeks, but I'm hoping using actual Loctite will solve my issues. As @Magsz says the CHPWS plate is aluminum (as far as I can tell) so I'm hesitant to torque too tightly.Quote:
I put a Holosun 509t-Rd (Gen 1, until the Gr is available) on an S&W M&P 2.0 Compact Optics Ready, with a CHPWS 509t plate. Used the supplied VC3 to mount, using a Wheeler torque wrench (little over 10 inch-lbs for the plate per CHPWS instructions, 20 inch-lbs for the optic itself) and allowed to cure ~4 days until shooting.
Took it to the range last night, after 120 rounds the plate was loose. Wasn't dropped at all, though I did rack the slide using the optic a few times.
Tonight I removed the optic and plate and used acetone to clean all areas (and soak the screws); this time I used Loctite 248 Glue Stick per recommendation above. Hoping this fixes it; I've heard great things about the CHPWS plates.
Watching some of the CHPWS install videos, and they recommend 'staking' the mounting screws with an marker; I had never heard of it referred to in this manner (previously only knew about the vampire-type staking, and staking on an AR15-style buffer tube). They also don't seem to have issues with VC3 - maybe I did in fact use too much.