SIG P229 SAS Trigger Issue

So, a couple weeks ago I purchased a SIG P229 SAS with the SRT trigger installed. While firing on the first day, I noticed a really gritty spot in the DA pull about 3/4 through the pull. I figured that I'd shoot a grand through it over the next couple weeks to see if the grit smoothed out.

Fast forward two weeks. I have a little over 1.3k through the gun. Half of which were practicing from a holster with the DA pull. The grit is still there, even with a ton of dry fire practice. The grit in the trigger did not seem interfere with shooting at first, but now it seems like I'm trying to overcompensate for the trigger and rush my shot on the DA pull occasionally (if that makes sense).

So SIG experts, what say you? How does one fix this issue? I'm sure that it's a minor fix; maybe I'm being a crybaby? Thanks guys.

I would start by taking it apart and cleaning the hammer and sear. Then liberally lube those parts with TW25B, or Lubriplate 105.

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Originally Posted by JV

I would start by taking it apart and cleaning the hammer and sear. Then liberally lube those parts with TW25B, or Lubriplate 105.

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Thanks, I just finished that. When I took the 229 totally apart I checked out the hammer and sear. They both looked fine. I did notice that the hammer strut was a pretty rough on the head of it. I believe that I've found the culprit.

Issues at the end of the trigger stroke make me think firing pin locking system. If you slowly dry fire the piece without the slide in place, do you still feel it? Bruce Gray sells a replacement lock that is titanium and uses a lower power spring to minimize the stacking.

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Originally Posted by John Hearne

Issues at the end of the trigger stroke make me think firing pin locking system. If you slowly dry fire the piece without the slide in place, do you still feel it? Bruce Gray sells a replacement lock that is titanium and uses a lower power spring to minimize the stacking.

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Yeah, it does do that. I can feel it as I cock the hammer when the slide is off as well.

The stock Sig parts can be improved immensely by a little polishing. The safety lever can be polished up nicely. You may be able to improve a bit by polishing the sides of the safety lock. A good detail strip & clean, followed by a TWB-25 lube of all the moving parts can do wonders. I've taken two lbs off the DA stroke on a pistol that had gone years without a detail strip.

To be clear, the safety lever is the "arm" that raises up from the frame at the end if the stroke. It engages the safety lock in the slide and must compress that spring to allow the firing pin to be able to move freely.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Hearne

The stock Sig parts can be improved immensely by a little polishing. The safety lever can be polished up nicely. You may be able to improve a bit by polishing the sides of the safety lock. A good detail strip & clean, followed by a TWB-25 lube of all the moving parts can do wonders. I've taken two lbs off the DA stroke on a pistol that had gone years without a detail strip.

To be clear, the safety lever is the "arm" that raises up from the frame at the end if the stroke. It engages the safety lock in the slide and must compress that spring to allow the firing pin to be able to move freely.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

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Great advice, John!

I recently picked up a 2004 vintage P220R. It had seen very little use, but the DA pull was atrocious. A detail strip (which revealed a good amount of congealed something or other), good cleaning, and some TW25b and I was in business.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Hearne

The stock Sig parts can be improved immensely by a little polishing. The safety lever can be polished up nicely. You may be able to improve a bit by polishing the sides of the safety lock. A good detail strip & clean, followed by a TWB-25 lube of all the moving parts can do wonders. I've taken two lbs off the DA stroke on a pistol that had gone years without a detail strip.

To be clear, the safety lever is the "arm" that raises up from the frame at the end if the stroke. It engages the safety lock in the slide and must compress that spring to allow the firing pin to be able to move freely.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

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Thanks that's great advice. I totally detail stripped the pistol today and applied FIREclean and moly grease to the contact points. I did notice that my safety lever looks different than normal due to it being the SRT kit.

It's a little better after the cleaning and lubing but it's still there. Would a new hammer strut or hammer lead to any improvement? By polishing what exactly do you recommend? Thanks again, John.

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Originally Posted by rekkr870

It's a little better after the cleaning and lubing but it's still there. Would a new hammer strut or hammer lead to any improvement? By polishing what exactly do you recommend?

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I've seen different approaches to polishing. The first decent action job I received was a work of art. The gunsmith had polished not just every moving part but the portions of the frame the moving parts touched. I have seen noticeable improvement by simply looking at what is wearing. Simply polish the shiny parts more. If you don't have a lot of rounds through the gun, then simply polishing that which moves against something else does good too. IIRC, I've seen some nasty hammer struts. You really only need to worry about the top of the strut, where it interfaces with the hammer. If your patient and take your time and ONLY POLISH, you'll get good results.

All of this primarily reduces what you feel in DA mode. It seems that the best way to "crisp up" the SA trigger is to true the hammer to the sear. Some guys do this by eye, others do it by mechanical fixture. The need for this to be done precisely is big so I leave it to people who get paid to do it.

I guess it's just the design but I notice that the Sig trigger "feel" decreases with round count between cleanings. I am a bit on the compulsive side and tend to just detail strip the frame when I clean the gun. I don't normally take out the magazine catch system but will remove everything that rides on the sear pin and hammer pin. I can clean and lube them up very quickly and I find it takes the same amount of time it would to clean carefully if you leave the frame together.

ETA: I have one of the replacement firing pin locks that Gray Guns sold. IIRC, when I installed it it took 1/2 pound out of the trigger. After a bunch of dry fire and I assume polishing in place, I notice that the stacking is greatly reduced. They are not currently available but should be later this year.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Hearne

I've seen different approaches to polishing. The first decent action job I received was a work of art. The gunsmith had polished not just every moving part but the portions of the frame the moving parts touched. I have seen noticeable improvement by simply looking at what is wearing. Simply polish the shiny parts more. If you don't have a lot of rounds through the gun, then simply polishing that which moves against something else does good too. IIRC, I've seen some nasty hammer struts. You really only need to worry about the top of the strut, where it interfaces with the hammer. If your patient and take your time and ONLY POLISH, you'll get good results.

All of this primarily reduces what you feel in DA mode. It seems that the best way to "crisp up" the SA trigger is to true the hammer to the sear. Some guys do this by eye, others do it by mechanical fixture. The need for this to be done precisely is big so I leave it to people who get paid to do it.

I guess it's just the design but I notice that the Sig trigger "feel" decreases with round count between cleanings. I am a bit on the compulsive side and tend to just detail strip the frame when I clean the gun. I don't normally take out the magazine catch system but will remove everything that rides on the sear pin and hammer pin. I can clean and lube them up very quickly and I find it takes the same amount of time it would to clean carefully if you leave the frame together.

ETA: I have one of the replacement firing pin locks that Gray Guns sold. IIRC, when I installed it it took 1/2 pound out of the trigger. After a bunch of dry fire and I assume polishing in place, I notice that the stacking is greatly reduced. They are not currently available but should be later this year.

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Alright that sounds good, I will give that a try. I'll polish the top of the hammer strut to see if that makes it any better. The SA trigger is great and is really not giving me any sort of trouble; the grit is only on the DA pull. I did notice that the feel of the SIG trigger does decrease over a few hundred rounds.

Yeah, I was looking on GrayGuns and could not find the firing pin locks. I'd like to give that a go. If this hammer strut polishing does not work out, I am probably going to send this pistol out to somebody to get it smoothed out. This is a little off topic, but do you have any experience with the 17lb Wolff Hammer Springs? Thanks.