Gen 4 Glock 34 Trigger Break

[MSparks909]

First post on here. Long time lurker and finally decided to register. I purchased a Gen 4 Glock 34 this past March at a local gun show. Love the ergo's and feel of the gun. I also have a Gen 4 19 that I currently OC/CC. When it's not being carried the GF uses it at the range. The 34 will be moving to my primary carry gun once my JM AIWB comes in. I also use it to shoot gun games and most of my pistol drills. With that said, I'm having gripes with the excessively stiff trigger break on the 34 compared to my 19. Previously I had a Gen 2 23 that had a mushy trigger break (avoiding another mushy trigger Glock at all costs). I installed a factory Glock "-" connector in my 19 and haven't touched anything else in the fire control group. It shoots wonderful as is. Smooth take-up and a light, crisp break (guessing around 4.5 lbs). However, once I pick up the 34 I instantly start throwing my shots, especially at distance. Could this be a training issue? Possibly...however even with the shorter sight radius and smaller grip I consistently turn in better results on Dot Torture, 99 drill, etc. due to the lighter trigger pull break. As of today my G34 has 983 rounds through it and my 19 has 1,253. I wanted to give my 34 time to break in before I start messing with getting its trigger to where my 19's trigger is in terms of break. I did a $.25 trigger job today on my 34 with little perceived difference. I did not have to do much polishing because there weren't excessive tool marks or worn spots on the connector and trigger bar and striker. So now I turn to you all for advice. As it will soon be my primary carry, reliability is paramount I would prefer to avoid aftermarket trigger bars, connectors, lighter springs, etc. if at all possible and stick with the factory parts. I could switch the trigger group from my 19 to the 34 but I'd prefer not to do this because the 19 will most likely become my GF's carry gun once her CCW permit comes in and I don't want to sack her with the 34's stiff trigger break. Thanks for any suggestions.

EDIT: I've done a ton of research comparing the Gen 1/2/3 trigger break compared to the Gen 4 and believe the stiffer break is due to the dimple on the factory trigger bar where it rides against the inside of the slide. The dimple does not let the trigger bar deflect as it comes in contact with the safety plunger. To some, "why fix what's broken" but to me I don't mind the design change and would like to keep the factory dimple'd trigger bar as it gives a nice, crisp break (in my 19 at least).

[YVK]

I'd swap trigger groups between the two for diagnostic purposes.

[MSparks909]

I'd swap trigger groups between the two for diagnostic purposes.

Will do.

[JBP55]

Since you do not want to use any aftermarket parts you can replace your trigger bar with a Vanek which is a tuned OEM part or you can rework the nose of your trigger bar.
The dimple on the trigger bar is not the issue.

[MSparks909]

Okay...messed with the trigger groups from both guns. First I took the trigger group from the 19 and installed it in the 34. Instant improvement. Exactly how the trigger feels when it's in the 19. So that narrows the problem, or culprit, to somewhere in the trigger group. Next I took the trigger bar (sans connector) from the 34's trigger group and installed it with the 19's connector and trigger housing. Instant hard trigger break again. So with everything narrowed out but the trigger bar, this is where I stand. I've been looking for differences between the 19 and 34's trigger bars for the last 20 minutes and can't tell a difference. I may end up breaking out my digital reloading caliper and measure each bend of the trigger bar separately.

[JBP55]

I took out 4 NIB Gen 3 G19's recently and the trigger was slightly different on three and drastically different on the fourth one with the trigger pull on the fourth one smoother and lighter.
They vary from Glock to Glock in the same generation.

[MSparks909]

After a lot of scrutiny it seems the trigger bar nose on the 19's trigger has less of a "hump. It is also 10/1000's of an inch larger in some parts. Gonna take a ceramic knife file to it very slowly and see what results I get.

[JBP55]

After a lot of scrutiny it seems the trigger bar nose on the 19's trigger has less of a "hump. It is also 10/1000's of an inch larger in some parts. Gonna take a ceramic knife file to it very slowly and see what results I get.


Now you are on to something, go slow until it is the same as the nose on the G19 or slightly less hump then check in the pistol and polish until it is smooth.

[MSparks909]

Well...after some careful time with the dremel the G34's trigger has improved by 100%. I very carefully re-worked the nose with a flapping attachment (not sandpaper) until it resembled the 19's. Polished everything back up with the dremel and polishing compound and re-installed back into the G34. Wow! Night and day difference. The break is still very slightly harder on the 34 vs the 19 but unless you dry-fired them side by side like I did 20+ times the average user would be hard pressed to know the difference. I lost some of the crispness but gained a much easier trigger break. Hopefully I'll be able to run some drills with it this week to see how the trigger runs. I may fine tune things later but odds are I'll leave "well-enough" alone. Thanks for the suggestions and tips that pointed me in the right direction. Much appreciated!

On a side note, this just goes to show how different the quality of components are gun-to-gun for mass-produced firearms such as Glock, Sig, M&P, etc. Had I not had my Gen 4 19 with the fantastic trigger from the factory, I very well may have written off the Gen 4 Glocks or at least had my perception severely tainted in thanks to my 34's trigger before the dremel work. Strongly looking at custom shop guns for my next purchase. I've always wanted a high end 1911 .45 pretty badly...guess I'll start saving.