Model 19-3 for IDPA/General marksmanship

[Nephrology]

Hi all,

So I am picking up a Model 19-3 on Saturday and am looking forward to finally moving into revolvers in a real way. For the past 3-4 years or so I have almost exclusively shot and carried 9mm glocks and run a G17 as my IDPA gun.

However, I started to realize that the gun I carry most often these days (especially in the hotter months) is a S&W 442, and it just didn't make any sense for me to be doing most of my shooting with 9mm glocks when the 442 is what gets carried more often than not. So I'd been looking for a bigger S&W to serve as an educational tool, as it were, and finally pulled the trigger on this model 19. Obviously I will continue to shoot the 442 but I wanted to have a gun that would allow me to be at least vaguely competitive in IDPA (don't really care how well I place as long as I don't feel handicapped by my gun) and that will allow me to shoot more through a wheelgun in one range trip than my 442 currently allows. I like the 442 and all, but I am am a bit worried that the bruises might become permanent at this rate... I also figured I owed it to myself to pick up a classic K frame like this. I have it in my head that learning the DA trigger will help me develop proficiency with pistols across the board (or so I said to myself as I clicked "buy...")

Besides a Dillon 550, what do y'all recommend I pick up to go with the 19? It's coming with the football-relief target stocks that I assume came standard with the gun. Will these allow the use of speedloaders? Any better grips I should be looking into? I'd like to stick to checkered wood without finger grooves, if possible. On that note, the gun is coming with 2 safariland Comp-2s and an HKs that should work with the gun. Are these reasonable for competitive use? Do I really need those giant Comp-3s to shoot IDPA? As you can tell I am not super worried about coming in 1st as long as I can still run the thing with a reasonable amount of proficiency.

I already have some ideas for leather holsters thanks to Tam but any other suggestions are always welcome. If there's anything else you think I should know about this gun, or if you can think of creative ways to punish my bank account, by all means leave them here.

[NETim]

The "football" cut out doesn't work well with speedloaders. At least that's been my experience. There are S&W stock versions on such places as Gunbroker for K frames with much more relief cut out. I have no experience with them but they look to me like they're speedloader compatible. I don't what is legal in IDPA as far as speedloaders. I just know I like the Safarilands more than the HKS versions.

Ahrends stocks appear to be held in high regard by many. I don't have any for my K guns as I'm still debating what kind of wood I want. I have some Coco's on my 29-2 and I like them. Naturally there are other 3rd party makers out there, but other than Herrett and Hogue, their names escape me presently. (Middle age fog.)

You're going to like shooting the 19. Mine led to a 66-1. :) Really, really fun to run 'em on plates.

[rsa-otc]

First thing I would do is get rid of the factory grips. While in most cases the factory grips will accommodate speedloaders, unless they are the S&W Galco Alves combat grips the factory target grips IMHO are like taking a wedge gripping it upside down and pounding on the top of the wedge with a hammer and expecting you to not have the wedge move in your hand. Grips are a personal choice but I've always been partial to Houge monogrips myself. Unfortunately since wheelguns aren't as mainstream anymore the grip/stock offerings aren't as plentiful as they once were.

CompIIs are perfectly satisfactory for IDPA, I've won one state championship with them and they are my EDC loaders. Although truth be known I roll will CompIIIs in competition nowadays.

Once you get proficient with the gun you'll be surprised at the number of people that will come up to you asking how you run the gun so fast. Half my time this weekend at the big local IDPA club match was spent talking to people about how to run a revolver in IDPA. :cool:

[Al T.]

My preferred stock for most S&Ws is the Hogue. Cheap and (IMHO) effective.

Good method for reloads:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXUwI_d8JlA

[gtmtnbiker98]

Late last year I developed poor trigger management and decided to shoot a J-frame exclusively for two months. After extensive dry fire and range use withe a J-frame, I am now shooting my P30 better than I ever have. There's something to be said about shooting a revolver. It cured what problem(s) I developed.

[GJM]

First thing I would do is get rid of the factory grips. While in most cases the factory grips will accommodate speedloaders, unless they are the S&W Galco Alves combat grips the factory target grips IMHO are like taking a wedge gripping it upside down and pounding on the top of the wedge with a hammer and expecting you to not have the wedge move in your hand. Grips are a personal choice but I've always been partial to Houge monogrips myself. Unfortunately since wheelguns aren't as mainstream anymore the grip/stock offerings aren't as plentiful as they once were.



My preferred stock for most S&Ws is the Hogue. Cheap and (IMHO) effective.



Hogue rubber mono grips, with the finger grooves buzzed off on models that have them, are flat out my favorite revolvers grips on J frame thru N frame. Among other benefits, the way they position your hand, I feel like they even improve the trigger pull of an individual revolver. I have a fair number of plain to fancy wood grips, all sitting in a drawer.

[Nephrology]

Hogue rubber mono grips, with the finger grooves buzzed off on models that have them, are flat out my favorite revolvers grips on J frame thru N frame. Among other benefits, the way they position your hand, I feel like they even improve the trigger pull of an individual revolver. I have a fair number of plain to fancy wood grips, all sitting in a drawer.

As practical as they sound, I am pretty set on wood. Maybe in the future when I am less enthralled by the idea of having a gun that isn't all black and mostly plastic.

[GJM]

As practical as they sound, I am pretty set on wood. Maybe in the future when I am less enthralled by the idea of having a gun that isn't all black and mostly plastic.

Hogue makes them in wood, too.

[Nephrology]

Hogue makes them in wood, too.

Is that so... the monogrip you say?

[TheRoland]

Where do people keep finding .357 K-frames? I've been looking on and off for a few months and everything I find has 'collectors value' and costs enough that I'd feel bad about hitting the ejector rod especially hard.

[GJM]

Is that so... the monogrip you say?

not sure that they call them "mono" grip, but they sure look like the same shape, but in wood:

http://www.hoguestore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_36_89_520

[JJN]

I shot a Model 10 in our local outlaw match for several months. What I went with was the Hogue nylon monogrip, then I ground off the finger grooves and ground the mother of all speedloader reliefs on my belt sander. I liked it, and if I didn't I was only out $20-25.
Jon

[Nephrology]

Where do people keep finding .357 K-frames? I've been looking on and off for a few months and everything I find has 'collectors value' and costs enough that I'd feel bad about hitting the ejector rod especially hard.

Online classifieds, Mine has some finish wear but is reported to be mechanically excellent. 400 shipped with 3 speedloaders.

[41magfan]

You know this already, but unlike the vast majority of pistols, the handling characteristics of a revolver can be radically changed by simply changing the grips. For most folks, shooting the gun in the DA mode (quickly) requires a totally different grip than a slow-fired precision shot at a small/distant target. Obviously, this "fit" is totally subjective and depends greatly on the dimensions of your hand(s). If there is a tendency, it's to get a grip too large that prevents adequate leverage on that long, relatively heavy, trigger pull.

I really like Ahrends grips - especially those that leave the back strap exposed. I also use HK speed-loaders for their proven durability and reliability. They're a tad slower than other designs, but they work in less than perfect conditions.

* The original Hogue "Mono" grip was called that because it was one of the first one-piece designs that was secured with a stirrup thru the bottom of the grip frame. Most revolver grips were - and remain - a two panel proposition.

I carried a revolver for almost 10 years before a pistol was adopted by my agency and I never felt inadequate by any stretch.

[Nephrology]

You know this already, but unlike the vast majority of pistols, the handling characteristics of a revolver can be radically changed by simply changing the grips. For most folks, shooting the gun in the DA mode (quickly) requires a totally different grip than a slow-fired precision shot at a small/distant target. Obviously, this "fit" is totally subjective and depends greatly on the dimensions of your hand(s). If there is a tendency, it's to get a grip too large that prevents adequate leverage on that long, relatively heavy, trigger pull.

I really like Ahrends grips - especially those that leave the back strap exposed. I also use HK speed-loaders for their proven durability and reliability. They're a tad slower than other designs, but they work in less than perfect conditions.

* The original Hogue "Mono" grip was called that because it was one of the first one-piece designs that was secured with a stirrup thru the bottom of the grip frame. Most revolver grips were - and remain - a two panel proposition.

I carried a revolver for almost 10 years before a pistol was adopted by my agency and I never felt inadequate by any stretch.

Does Ahrends offer checkering on any of their models? I can't seem to find anything suggesting they do...

[Jim Watson]

I use rubber Hogues on my IDPA revolvers. I don't like the finger grooves, but am too cheap to pay for wood Hogues without... or maybe the top groove only.
The Jerry Miculek grip, kind of a pirate pistol "bag" grip shape, is made by Hogue and is worth a look.

The Comp II speedloader is adequate, all I can get for my Colts.
I would use the HKS to LAMR only.

[gringop]

As you can tell by the pics, I'm big on wooden Hogue Monogrips. It's been so long since I bought these I couldn't tell you the type of wood. The finger grooves work fine for my hands.

http://s233.photobucket.com/user/gringop/media/20130729_232225a.jpg.html


On thing that I had to do was narrow up the top of the grips on the sides of the lockwork. With my high grip and boney hands, it was just too wide. They work great now.

Gringop

http://s233.photobucket.com/user/gringop/media/20130729_232349a.jpg.html
http://s233.photobucket.com/user/gringop/media/20130729_232325a.jpg.html



Not sure why the image aren't showing up, here's some links
http://s233.photobucket.com/user/gringop/media/20130729_232225a.jpg.html
http://s233.photobucket.com/user/gringop/media/20130729_232349a.jpg.html
http://s233.photobucket.com/user/gringop/media/20130729_232325a.jpg.html

[Tamara]

Eagle Secret Service stocks (http://cosmolineandrust.blogspot.com/2008/01/sunday-smith-32-model-pc-13-1995.html).

(You can call those things on a bottom feeder "grips", but resolvers have stocks. ;) )

Here (http://cosmolineandrust.blogspot.com/2008/01/sunday-smith-29-model-19-5-1988.html)'s what a Hogue looks like on a 4" 19-5.

[GJM]

Eagle Here (http://cosmolineandrust.blogspot.com/2008/01/sunday-smith-32-model-pc-13-1995.html)'s what a Hogue looks like on a 4" 19-5.

Not recommended for those looking for a soft shooting experience, but here is my short barrel 329 .44 magnum, after I managed to squeeze on Hogue grips for the K/L frame. Makes for a very compact, brutal to shoot revolver. Figure if I ever want to play the "my little revolver is bigger than your little revolver," with Jody H, I have a chance of winning:

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg251/GJMandes/329_zpsc7989380.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/GJMandes/media/329_zpsc7989380.jpg.html)

[41magfan]

Does Ahrends offer checkering on any of their models? I can't seem to find anything suggesting they do...

I'm afraid the only grip panels Ahrends checkers are for the 1911. The do, however, offer all of their products without a final finish should you have a means to have them checkered yourself.

[rathos]

A second for the Eagles. I got the smooth ones, if I had it to do over again I would probably go with the checkered ones shown in the pic. I was amazed at how well the gun hid with those stocks.


Eagle Secret Service stocks (http://cosmolineandrust.blogspot.com/2008/01/sunday-smith-32-model-pc-13-1995.html).

(You can call those things on a bottom feeder "grips", but resolvers have stocks. ;) )

Here (http://cosmolineandrust.blogspot.com/2008/01/sunday-smith-29-model-19-5-1988.html)'s what a Hogue looks like on a 4" 19-5.

[Nephrology]

So I just took possession of the model 19....


what on earth was I doing for so long without this???

I fear that pandora's box has been opened ..... Woe to my bank account.

[Al T.]

Neat aren't they? Get one dialed in with some soft recoiling .38 loads and you'll be amazed at the potential accuracy. :cool:


I managed to squeeze on Hogue grips for the K/L frame.

If you'll get a set of the rubber X frame grips from S&W, you'll find that it really takes the sting out of that Magnum. X frame stocks fit round butt N frames.

[Nephrology]

i took it out today and put some .38 through it. I instantly shot better than I ever have with my glocks. I am filled with confusing feelings. Mostly good confusing. I think I need another one?

[GJM]

1) after shooting DA for a while, I bet you shoot your Glock even better.

2) the reason folks don't carry a revolver isn't because they don't shoot well -- there is nothing I can shoot better than a good Smith K/L/N frame. The reason is for weight, concealibility, capacity and ease of reloading.

[Nephrology]

1) after shooting DA for a while, I bet you shoot your Glock even better.

2) the reason folks don't carry a revolver isn't because they don't shoot well -- there is nothing I can shoot better than a good Smith K/L/N frame. The reason is for weight, concealibility, capacity and ease of reloading.

Re #2: while I already mostly carry a J frame (especially in this heat), my Glocks aren't going to be retired any time soon. Unfortunately in CT with the laws the way they are I can only really take advantage of regular capacity for home defense.... otherwise my concealed carry choices are restricted to a max of 10+1 anyway. My g26 fills that role pretty nicely.

that said, I did just switch all of my Glocks back to the NY1/ "-" connector setup as it is vaguely more similar to a DA revolver pull than not.

[gtmtnbiker98]

Revolvers are addicting!

[Shawn.L]

I am absolutely am loving my 66-1 and plan on hitting some IDPA with it but I wish I had a wider and deeper rear notch.

Anyone know any options?

[Nephrology]

Okay, another question for revolver gurus - what's the best way to get a lighter but still reliable trigger pull out of this Model 19? I was looking at replacing the mainspring with one of Wolff'sp ower ribs .... are these good? Is the Type 2 (reduced power )still reliable? Or should I go with the Type 1 if I want to avoid light strikes? I've also read that replacing the mainspring tension screw might be necessary on older guns. Would this be the case with my gun potentially?

Not interested in mucking with the rebound spring because 1. I don't have the stupid tool and don't want to try to Jerry rig it and 2. I replaced the rebound spring in my J frame and dislike the effect it had on the reset/trigger return. I don't need a significantly reuced trigger pull... 2 lb lighter give or take would make me happy.

[Shawn.L]

I could do to make my rebound heavier....

[41magfan]

Okay, another question for revolver gurus - what's the best way to get a lighter but still reliable trigger pull out of this Model 19? I was looking at replacing the mainspring with one of Wolff'sp ower ribs .... are these good? Is the Type 2 (reduced power )still reliable? Or should I go with the Type 1 if I want to avoid light strikes? I've also read that replacing the mainspring tension screw might be necessary on older guns. Would this be the case with my gun potentially?

Not interested in mucking with the rebound spring because 1. I don't have the stupid tool and don't want to try to Jerry rig it and 2. I replaced the rebound spring in my J frame and dislike the effect it had on the reset/trigger return. I don't need a significantly reuced trigger pull... 2 lb lighter give or take would make me happy.

As you've already found out with your J-Frame, lightening the rebound spring just slows down trigger reset. Most of the aftermarket main springs don't really make the action lighter and just compromise reliability if you encounter a hard or deep seated primer.

You really don't need a "tool" for removing or installing the rebound slide - just use a narrow screw driver and take your time depressing the spring back on the stud.

If you care to attempt a poor man's action job, do this:

* polish the hammer stud
* polish the trigger stud
* polish the bottom of the rebound slide
* polish the frame ledge where the bottom of the rebound slide makes contact
* polish the cylinder yoke surfaces where the cylinder rotates

We're polishing now, not removing material so don't use anything with an abrasive rating of less than 800 and take your time. A piece of glass or a new Arkansas stone works well for keeping the rebound slide surfaces flat. Personally, I leave both springs alone.

Crocus cloth works really well and if you'll send me a PM with your mailing address I'll send you some.

Lastly, if you'll have the trigger face radiused from edge to edge and highly polished, you'll like that as much as the action job.

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/93/lhxj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/46/lhxj.jpg/)

[LHS]

Lastly, if you'll have the trigger face radiused from edge to edge and highly polished, you'll like that as much as the action job.

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/93/lhxj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/46/lhxj.jpg/)

A thousand times this. I had Nelson Ford give this treatment to my 642, and it made a world of difference.

[Al T.]

Agree with 41magfan.

[Nephrology]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I went ahead and ordered the Wolff "Standard, Type 1" mainspring just to fool around with (at 12 bucks it isn't a huge loss if I don't like it) and will be attempting a poor man's action job in the near-ish future. I'll let you know how it all goes....

[rsa-otc]

While I agree with 41Magfan on 95% of what he stated I would like to add my following observations:

Rebound Springs:
Depending on your guns date of manufacture the rebound spring may see some improvement with replacement. My experience shows that the strength of the rebound spring in early guns could vary a great deal. Let’s face it today’s technology and quality control are light years ahead of the 60’s to mid 80’s. S&W rates the stock rebound springs strength at 18 lbs. My usual practice with defensive based guns is to replace the stock spring with a 16lb. Wolf spring. I have yet to have anyone out run that setup, maybe Jerry M can. Right now I’m running a 13 lb rebound spring in my 686 and I am able to maintain .19 to .21 splits without any problems. With the trigger job 41Magfan outlined I don’t see a 16lb spring being sluggish.

Mainsprings:
Wolf’s claim is that their “Power Rib” mainspring removes stacking at the end of the trigger press. Growing up with S&W revolvers I may have grown accustomed to the stack but I never noticed it personally. That said, I will replace older suspect mainsprings with Wolf Type 1s ( I like Wolf’s QC, that and the S&W performance center guns come stock with Wolf Springs as evidenced by my son’s 686 SSR). As you observed in an earlier post some of the strain screws may be too short (I find that this is a hit or miss proposition) and need to be replaced since the strain screw contacts the Wolf spring in the indentation that makes up the “Power Rib”. Or you can do like the “Old School” gun smiths and if you reload take a “SPENT” small pistol primer removing the anvil and place it over the end of the stain screw as a shim.

Another tactic is to back off the strain screw tension ½ turn at a time finding a setting that you like but maintains reliable ignition. A note of caution is that once I found the “Sweet Spot” I would take note of this setting and Blue Locktite the screw in place. Strain screws have a tendency to loosen unless they are tightly installed. My current 686 setup is a Wolf Type I with the Strain Screw backed off ½ turn. This setup will ignite CCI Small Pistol Magnum Primers all day long.

Cylinder Lock Spring:
Wolf offers an “Extra Strength” Cylinder Lock Spring. In my guns I run this extra strength spring since I have spun right past chambers in the past with my 686. Haven’t had that problem since I changed springs. Frankly I never had this issue with any of the K frames, it must have been the extra mass of the L frame cylinder that led to this issue.

[Nephrology]

While I agree with 41Magfan on 95% of what he stated I would like to add my following observations:

Rebound Springs:
Depending on your guns date of manufacture the rebound spring may see some improvement with replacement. My experience shows that the strength of the rebound spring in early guns could vary a great deal. Let’s face it today’s technology and quality control are light years ahead of the 60’s to mid 80’s. S&W rates the stock rebound springs strength at 18 lbs. My usual practice with defensive based guns is to replace the stock spring with a 16lb. Wolf spring. I have yet to have anyone out run that setup, maybe Jerry M can. Right now I’m running a 13 lb rebound spring in my 686 and I am able to maintain .19 to .21 splits without any problems. With the trigger job 41Magfan outlined I don’t see a 16lb spring being sluggish.

Mainsprings:
Wolf’s claim is that their “Power Rib” mainspring removes stacking at the end of the trigger press. Growing up with S&W revolvers I may have grown accustomed to the stack but I never noticed it personally. That said, I will replace older suspect mainsprings with Wolf Type 1s ( I like Wolf’s QC, that and the S&W performance center guns come stock with Wolf Springs as evidenced by my son’s 686 SSR). As you observed in an earlier post some of the strain screws may be too short (I find that this is a hit or miss proposition) and need to be replaced since the strain screw contacts the Wolf spring in the indentation that makes up the “Power Rib”. Or you can do like the “Old School” gun smiths and if you reload take a “SPENT” small pistol primer removing the anvil and place it over the end of the stain screw as a shim.

Another tactic is to back off the strain screw tension ½ turn at a time finding a setting that you like but maintains reliable ignition. A note of caution is that once I found the “Sweet Spot” I would take note of this setting and Blue Locktite the screw in place. Strain screws have a tendency to loosen unless they are tightly installed. My current 686 setup is a Wolf Type I with the Strain Screw backed off ½ turn. This setup will ignite CCI Small Pistol Magnum Primers all day long.

Cylinder Lock Spring:
Wolf offers an “Extra Strength” Cylinder Lock Spring. In my guns I run this extra strength spring since I have spun right past chambers in the past with my 686. Haven’t had that problem since I changed springs. Frankly I never had this issue with any of the K frames, it must have been the extra mass of the L frame cylinder that led to this issue.

Thanks for the info! Are there strain screws that I can buy that will work with the Wolff spring? Or will it require modification no matter what?

[GJM]

Just out of curiosity, given how well you shot this revolver, why not leave the action alone for now? In my experience, messing with different springs may be similar to putting non OEM parts in a Glock. If my Smith revolver actions are good, and most old ones are, I just shoot them. If bad, I had JoJo's (in CT) polish parts, but not mess with springs, to maintain reliability.

[rsa-otc]

Thanks for the info! Are there strain screws that I can buy that will work with the Wolff spring? Or will it require modification no matter what?

Quite frankly you never know, the one you currently have may work fine with no modification, you have to wait and see. When they don't work I go old school to be honest, so I have never looked to see if there was a particular replacement number that is longer. For all I know the ones I have found to be too short were modified(shortened) by a previous gunsmith looking to lighten the trigger. Jerry Miculek in his own Youtube video cuts the screw to length rather than locktiting it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9gn7zE5b3g&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLFWh-_7kw52ojTpaL-9R8nyq4CklC3Y80

This looks neat :http://www.midwayusa.com/product/836805/power-custom-complete-screw-kit-smith-and-wesson-pre-1988-3-screw-allen-head-steel-blue

[Nephrology]

Just out of curiosity, given how well you shot this revolver, why not leave the action alone for now? In my experience, messing with different springs may be similar to putting non OEM parts in a Glock. If my Smith revolver actions are good, and most old ones are, I just shoot them. If bad, I had JoJo's (in CT) polish parts, but not mess with springs, to maintain reliability.

Because like most gun owners I am overcome with the irresistible urge to tinker at least a little bit.

[FotoTomas]

I am getting on in years and have resisted that urge to tinker. My Model 19 Combat Magnum is stock and I am quite happy with it. For the stocks I use older Model 10 Magna stock panels with a Tyler T-Grip adapter. The left panal needs to be ground down a little for maximum speed and efficiency of the speed loaders. The slightly rounded bottoms are easy on a vest of shirt. Does not "look" too snazzy but it works for me. I have a selection of speedloaders to include the Comp 1's, Comp II's and Comp III's. The HKS brand however are the ones I have used the most over the years and still work well for me. I am planning to try the Comp III's more and get used to them. I need a better speedloader pouch for matches. We will see. :)

[NEPAKevin]

I need a better speedloader pouch for matches.

Same here. So far have tried the Safariland, Split-six and Bianchis that only worked with Comp-IIs or HKS, Blade Tech, Ready Tactical and some home brewed Kydex. The Ready Tactical is the best so far but have inadvertently knocked the Com-IIIs out of them on more than one occasion.

[Nephrology]

Let's say I wanted to swap the rear sight leaf out for one of the white outline ones ... which one should do the trick here? What does the RD stand for?

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/320040.htm

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/299960.htm

Is this an easy enough job to do? Good idea? bad idea?

[Robinson]

Let's say I wanted to swap the rear sight leaf out for one of the white outline ones ... which one should do the trick here? What does the RD stand for?

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/320040.htm

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/299960.htm

Is this an easy enough job to do? Good idea? bad idea?

You'd probably have more luck replacing the entire rear sight assembly if you can find one. I think switching out just the blade will require you to actually break one of the small parts and it would need to be replaced along with the sight blade. Are you really sure you want a white outline?

[Nephrology]

You'd probably have more luck replacing the entire rear sight assembly if you can find one. I think switching out just the blade will require you to actually break one of the small parts and it would need to be replaced along with the sight blade. Are you really sure you want a white outline?

Currently my sight picture is black on black, and I think I would like a white outline, yes. However, upon doing some research into the work involved in changing out only the leaf, I think you are right.... However, poking around for a whole new assembly leads me to believe that they are ~60 bucks or more. Not necessarily worth the money, in my mind...

[GJM]

I found it easier to replace the whole rear sight, than try to get the blade switched. Other possibilities are the adjustable rear sight Hamilton Bowen sells, or if it regulates, the fixed rear sight Smith supplies with their Nightguard series.

[41magfan]

If you decide to do it, watch this video a couple of times and have this parts kit on-hand before you start.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_sDPh18Z08

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/173968/smith-and-wesson-rear-sight-blade-kit-k-l-n-frame-with-white-outline-blade-146-windage-nut-screw-and-instructions

[Nephrology]

I found it easier to replace the whole rear sight, than try to get the blade switched. Other possibilities are the adjustable rear sight Hamilton Bowen sells, or if it regulates, the fixed rear sight Smith supplies with their Nightguard series.

Research tells me the night guard uses these...

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=CS0123R

I would be a bit worried they might alter the zero of the gun, however.

edit: Also it appears i'd need to have my gun drilled and tapped. At that point I may as well send it off to a good smith to have them work on it.... I'll pass for now.

[GJM]

Research tells me the night guard uses these...

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=CS0123R

I would be a bit worried they might alter the zero of the gun, however.

edit: Also it appears i'd need to have my gun drilled and tapped. At that point I may as well send it off to a good smith to have them work on it.... I'll pass for now.

On my 329, the fixed sight (and I believe it is a C&S) goes in the same slot as the factory adjustable sight. I had planned to swap it out for an adjustable rear if the revolver didn't shoot to my desire POI.

[Robinson]

Your model 19 will require modification to use the C&S fixed rear sight -- it is designed to be a drop-in replacement for newer guns with the rounded sight slot on top.

The Bowen rear sight is a very well made part, but it is also designed for newer guns and would not work on a Model 19.

If your front sight is pinned it might be easiest to replace it with a red ramp sight or a gold bead if you want some contrast. Speaking only for myself, having the white outline rear with plain black front would draw my eyes away from the front sight instead of making it easier to focus on.

[Nephrology]

Your model 19 will require modification to use the C&S fixed rear sight -- it is designed to be a drop-in replacement for newer guns with the rounded sight slot on top.

The Bowen rear sight is a very well made part, but it is also designed for newer guns and would not work on a Model 19.

If your front sight is pinned it might be easiest to replace it with a red ramp sight or a gold bead if you want some contrast. Speaking only for myself, having the white outline rear with plain black front would draw my eyes away from the front sight instead of making it easier to focus on.

So, at first I was going to reply and say that regrettably my front sight looks like my front sight is fixed.... however upon closer examination it appears as if there MIGHT be a pin holding it in place, but one that has been ground flush with the rest of the rear sight fixture. Is this common? Or do I just need glasses?

[rsa-otc]

On my 329, the fixed sight (and I believe it is a C&S) goes in the same slot as the factory adjustable sight. I had planned to swap it out for an adjustable rear if the revolver didn't shoot to my desire POI.

The C&S fixed sight is set up to be a direct swap for later model S&W adjustable sights sporting the rounded tang end. Early model sights require the frame being drilled and tapped for the second screw hole and possibly the both since early sights were not standard with the screw location.

Bowen Classic Arms offers a rough duty sight that for older Smiths comes with the sight tang undrilled allowing you to drill the tang rather than the frame.
http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/

Personally I recently went with this option and have been extremely happy. don't let the fact that it is aluminum put you off, they are quite substantial, remember they've been make aluminum gun frames for decades.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/861116/weigand-competition-rear-sight-blade-140-notch-width-s-and-w-revolvers-steel-blue I bought the screw, nut and wrench from Brownels. Everything was less than $60 total.

[Nephrology]

So, at first I was going to reply and say that regrettably my front sight looks like my front sight is fixed.... however upon closer examination it appears as if there MIGHT be a pin holding it in place, but one that has been ground flush with the rest of the rear sight fixture. Is this common? Or do I just need glasses?

Just quoting this so it doesn't get lost on the last page...

[Chuck Whitlock]

If you decide to do it, watch this video a couple of times and have this parts kit on-hand before you start.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_sDPh18Z08

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/173968/smith-and-wesson-rear-sight-blade-kit-k-l-n-frame-with-white-outline-blade-146-windage-nut-screw-and-instructions

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?sortby=1&itemsperpage=96&newcategorydimensionid=17401&pageNumber=1

There are kits with black blades, too. Apparently you will need to decide on blade height.

[Chuck Whitlock]

So, at first I was going to reply and say that regrettably my front sight looks like my front sight is fixed.... however upon closer examination it appears as if there MIGHT be a pin holding it in place, but one that has been ground flush with the rest of the rear sight fixture. Is this common? Or do I just need glasses?

I recently acquired a 15-3 (same gun, but chambered for .38 instead of .357) and the front blade is integral with the sight rib.

[rsa-otc]

Just quoting this so it doesn't get lost on the last page...

Short answer is that it depends, some do some don't depending on their vintage. When they are pinned it's very hard to tell them from the integral versions because the polishing or bead blasting masks the pins. A decent gunsmith should be able to tell you. I have several 10's 13's 64's and 65's where the pin outlines have become noticeable over the years. Model 19's & 15 don't see the holster wear in those areas the fixed sighted weapons do.

[Nephrology]

Short answer is that it depends, some do some don't depending on their vintage. When they are pinned it's very hard to tell them from the integral versions because the polishing or bead blasting masks the pins. A decent gunsmith should be able to tell you. I have several 10's 13's 64's and 65's where the pin outlines have become noticeable over the years. Model 19's & 15 don't see the holster wear in those areas the fixed sighted weapons do.

In looking at the revolver muzzle-on I am able to see a thin gap under the front sight blade, unlike my j frame, which leads me to believe that it is infact pinned. what I think is the pin is also consistent with the location of sight pins on other S&W revolvers I've seen online. It looks like it's just very well blended with the sight base.

[Robinson]

In looking at the revolver muzzle-on I am able to see a thin gap under the front sight blade, unlike my j frame, which leads me to believe that it is infact pinned. what I think is the pin is also consistent with the location of sight pins on other S&W revolvers I've seen online. It looks like it's just very well blended with the sight base.

If that's the case then there are a few types of front sights you can go with assuming you find one with the correct height. S&W sells some on their website, and Brownells also carries them. If you want to install it yourself you will need the right size punch and maybe some Loctite.

The pinned front sights S&W sells on their site include bead and fiber optic types. Brownells also sells a red ramp pinned front sight that is .278" high.

[Nephrology]

If that's the case then there are a few types of front sights you can go with assuming you find one with the correct height. S&W sells some on their website, and Brownells also carries them. If you want to install it yourself you will need the right size punch and maybe some Loctite.

The pinned front sights S&W sells on their site include bead and fiber optic types. Brownells also sells a red ramp pinned front sight that is .278" high.

I presume this wouldn't require drilling, like some of the other sights I've seen for sale?

[41magfan]

Before you get too far down this road; if the sight base doesn't have a plainly visible removable pin, it's not "interchangeable" in the sense of front sight blade options we normally associate with late production S&W revolvers. Unless it's be retro-fitted by a custom alteration, a 19-3 predates interchangeable sights by many years, I'm afraid.

[Nephrology]

Before you get too far down this road; if the sight base doesn't have a plainly visible removable pin, it's not "interchangeable" in the sense of front sight blade options we normally associate with late production S&W revolvers. Unless it's be retro-fitted by a custom alteration, a 19-3 predates interchangeable sights by many years, I'm afraid.

Gotcha. This is mostly idle research for now. I am not in a hurry to do anything that is difficult to reverse with my revolver just yet.

[Robinson]

If the front sight is integral then you might want to just leave it alone or apply some bright paint. However, if you want to modify it to hold a red ramp insert there are kits available for that purpose. There is a video available on the Midway USA site that shows the procedure:

http://videos.midwayusa.com/index.php/show/installing_a_red_ramp_front_sight_on_s%26amp%3Bw_r evolvers?id=1_7jz2uzsu

I am not advising you one way or the other, just pointing it out.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Back in '87-'88 a gunsmith in Millington, TN bought some gold rings from a pawn shop and replaced the red plastic insert on a few S&W front sights with the gold. He also cut a dovetail in the front sight of his early model Detective Special a'la the Midway video and installed the gold instead of plastic. It did look pretty sweet.

[camsdaddy]

OP now that you have had the gun a few months and I assume you have run it some. How do you like it? I read all of these mods etc to a k frame and I am amazed. I have several that if they were any better I couldnt stand it. Also how has this effected your shooting of your Glocks and your 442?

[Nephrology]

Sorry for the late reply - moved to a new city for a new job so life has been hectic.

I LOVE my k frame. Replaced the mainspring and rebound spring with a Wolff full power and 15lb respectively. Haven't had the time to do a ton of shooting but I have roughly 500rd through it by now. It has definitely helped me with my longer range (15 yd +) accuracy with all of my guns but the 442 remains a challenge, particularly at speed. In due time!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

[Simon]

Back in '87-'88 a gunsmith in Millington, TN bought some gold rings from a pawn shop and replaced the red plastic insert on a few S&W front sights with the gold. He also cut a dovetail in the front sight of his early model Detective Special a'la the Midway video and installed the gold instead of plastic. It did look pretty sweet.

I just found this thread and thought I would add my experience. I have done the plastic, verious color. red. green, yellow, and the gold using 10krt. The one I liked best was Ivory. Fellow gave me 3 old ivory piano keys and I made inserts for several revolvers.
The Ivory kind of glows in low light and is easy to see, however it is no better than plain sights in the dark. I have no idea where
to get Ivory now days unless you can find old figureines. You might get Mastadone ivory or walrus tusk from a knife makers supply, but I have never tried that on sights and don,t know how it would work.

One thing about doing the inserts is they won,t stand a lot of rough handling. You have to watch that they don,t get knocked around. If you are a working LEO you will know what I mean, bumping into things,etc.

[justintime]

Does anyone know if there is a scope mount available for the 19-3? My dad wants to run a red dot on his for fun/steel challenge/have fun with it again. I've been doing some research but have not come up with much.

[TheTrevor]

Does anyone know if there is a scope mount available for the 19-3? My dad wants to run a red dot on his for fun/steel challenge/have fun with it again. I've been doing some research but have not come up with much.

These wouldn't work?

http://www.jackweigand.com/swhpmnt.html