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View Full Version : Cleaning the Barrel of an AR/.223., Lubrication



cclaxton
05-27-2013, 08:39 PM
I am fairly new to cleaning and maintaining an AR.

1) Cleaning the Barrel: How often?, Manual says to put rod in from muzzle end, then attach brush and pull it through, then repeat. Can I just push the brush in from the muzzle end and push all the way out, then pull all the way out? Or do I really need to worry about damaging it?

2) Where to put oil?, Where to put grease? Where to leave it dry?

Thanks,
CC

orionz06
05-27-2013, 08:42 PM
What gun/barrel is it? If it is chrome lined you may not need to do anything.

Kyle Reese
05-27-2013, 08:53 PM
For my chrome lined barrels, I just run a bore snake through the bore a few times, clean the chamber area with q-tips, and call it a day.

In terms of lubrication, generally speaking, the Stoner system will run dirty, as long as it's run wet. My AR's are lubricated with Frog Lube, and I apply it generously (sopping wet) to the bolt, the outside of the carrier, and a little on the hammer. Look for wear/contact areas and lubricate accordingly. Many people tend to under lubricate their AR's, so don't do that. :)

I spend more time shooting my guns than cleaning them, and stopped caring if they could pass a white glove inspection when I left the Army.

Jay Cunningham
05-27-2013, 09:02 PM
Lube the entire front half of the bolt carrier group.

GTG

Everything else is optional.

Josh Runkle
05-27-2013, 09:02 PM
You should be careful inserting things from the muzzle end, so as not to damage the crown of the barrel. I personally just run a bore snake through the barrel (breech to bore) and spend next to zero time on that, whereas I spend a lot of time cleaning the insides of the upper, guts of the lower, function check the lower, check for loose screws anywhere, and then spend a lot of time on the bolt.

So, not that it's correct but, minimal time on barrel, moderate time on everything else, detailed time on bolt assembly and double checking that everything is good to go.

abu fitna
05-27-2013, 09:15 PM
I have used bore snakes for years. However the other day had one shred and jam in the barrel, complete obstruction. Very challenging problem. Not sure if I can trust them going forward. If nothing else, inspect and replace frequently.

orionz06
05-27-2013, 09:48 PM
Brake spray does wonders for the bore of a chrome lined gun.

Odin Bravo One
05-27-2013, 10:28 PM
The last time I cleaned the barrel of an AR was May 31st 1996.

Gun work, gun good.

cclaxton
05-28-2013, 06:14 AM
Yes, chrome lined. Bore Snake sounds easy. Thanks.

Going back to the lube: oil, grease or something in-between?
Seems like the underside of the bolt area where it rides against the trigger mechanism should get grease, along with a tiny amount in the trigger sear area.
Oil for the bolt itself and related parts.

Do you oil the rear of the breach where the bolt contacts the breach?

Thanks,
CC

LittleLebowski
05-28-2013, 06:24 AM
I am fairly new to cleaning and maintaining an AR.

1) Cleaning the Barrel: How often?, Manual says to put rod in from muzzle end, then attach brush and pull it through, then repeat. Can I just push the brush in from the muzzle end and push all the way out, then pull all the way out? Or do I really need to worry about damaging it?

2) Where to put oil?, Where to put grease? Where to leave it dry?

Thanks,
CC

Clean every 500 rounds or when accuracy drops off. Many of us go every 1k rounds or more with no ill effects.

Clean from the chamber end. The manual is wrong. You can absolutely damage a barrel through overcleaning and/or improper cleaning.

You need to make sure solvents are out of the barrel through using an oil or CLP type oil soaked patch. If storing for months or years, do push one-two patches of oiled patches through the barrel.

Don't overthink this nor over do it.

LittleLebowski
05-28-2013, 06:26 AM
Brake spray does wonders for the bore of a chrome lined gun.

Non chlorinated brake cleaner can clean the the whole weapon. Then re-lube all contact points heavily (for ARs). Chicken's done.

orionz06
05-28-2013, 06:28 AM
Yes, chrome lined. Bore Snake sounds easy. Thanks.

Going back to the lube: oil, grease or something in-between?
Seems like the underside of the bolt area where it rides against the trigger mechanism should get grease, along with a tiny amount in the trigger sear area.
Oil for the bolt itself and related parts.

Do you oil the rear of the breach where the bolt contacts the breach?

Thanks,
CC

When I lube an AR I just dump oil on the bolt and front of the carrier, let it work around, and send the bolt home once or twice to fling the excess off an wipe the outside. As LL said do not overthink it, it's a rifle, not a space shuttle.

Josh Runkle
05-28-2013, 06:46 AM
Not meaning to derail, I feel this is on topic: froglube? Who uses it? I was going to try some last year and then the prices skyrocketed. Worth it?

LittleLebowski
05-28-2013, 06:48 AM
Not meaning to derail, I feel this is on topic: froglube? Who uses it? I was going to try some last year and then the prices skyrocketed. Worth it?

If what you have works, stick with it.

ffhounddog
05-28-2013, 07:03 AM
Use a Hoppes Bore Snake from the ass end and pull out the muzzle. Maybe put some cleaning stuff for the barrel but normally not needed.

Use any cleaning stuff you know works. Hoppes, Slip, Frog, CLP, KY, astroglide whatever you want to use that is slick and it should work. Dri-Lube and Remmington stuff not so much.

Al T.
05-28-2013, 07:04 AM
What they said. :) I try to wipe down my primary AR after every case of ammo, mainly to check for wear. If it was a duty weapon, I'd be much more inclined to keep it cleaned and lubed.

For an interesting read:

http://www.slip2000.com/blog/s-w-a-t-magazine-filthy-14/

Al T.
05-28-2013, 07:18 AM
More good reading here:

http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?3090-Carbine-Basics&highlight=platform

orionz06
05-28-2013, 07:33 AM
Not meaning to derail, I feel this is on topic: froglube? Who uses it? I was going to try some last year and then the prices skyrocketed. Worth it?

Froglube works, but not because of any of their lies in marketing. If you have some use it; it will work like all the other lines. You can drink it, supposedly. Some people seem to find that desirable in a lubricant for a firearm.

Spr1
05-28-2013, 07:31 PM
Bore snakes do break. A friend brought an upper to me that had a bore snake stuck in the bore. I had to pull the flash hider off to get a big enough piece of it in the vice grips. That would have been fun in the field.....

ST911
05-28-2013, 07:44 PM
In duty guns, I brush out the chunks, pull a boresnake, and lube generously after each range session. Not because it needs to be cleaned, but more so that I have the chance to watch parts for wear and tear. Fun/pool guns just get relubed. I use Slip 2000 CLP, EWL, 725.

Here's a great article from Pat Rogers on keeping the AR running, from SWAT magazine. Read and heed.
http://www.ar15.com/content/swat/keepitrunning.pdf

gunkid
06-12-2013, 11:08 AM
I then fire a few rds of .22lr thru the conversion unit. the wax from the .22 bullets is by far the best bore protectant available. i do scrub out the chamber and clean the bolt, tho. I favor LockEase dry graphite lube, cause wet lubes "hold" too much debris.

WDW
06-12-2013, 11:40 AM
I then fire a few rds of .22lr thru the conversion unit. the wax from the .22 bullets is by far the best bore protectant available. i do scrub out the chamber and clean the bolt, tho. I favor LockEase dry graphite lube, cause wet lubes "hold" too much debris.
Your bore should be chrome lined. It doesn't need anything. Also, you should get a dedicated .22 upper. Conversion kits are bad ideas usually. Long story short, the really foul up the upper, gas port, tube.