TW-25B Grease

[Mr. Goodtimes]

I drank way to much cuban espresso so heres the cliff notes for those that don't want to read a novel...

kitten I learned today:

1. Clean the gun once a month regardless of shooting?
2. Germans make good stuff
3. I shouldn't drink six shots of cuban espresso.
4. TW-25B dries up if you let it sit too long?
5. I'm not as fast at vice presidente as Tom Cruise in Collateral


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDqLOJy0O_A


Full Version



Any one here who uses TW-25B grease ever have it dry up in a weapon they don't use often? I use TW-25B grease exclusively in my one and only pistola, a 9mm HK P30. Now you may be asking your self; why does Mr. Goodtimes only own one pistol? Well mostly because I'm a broke kitten college student, also because I cant really see what another handgun would do that my P30 doesn't, and I can buy a kitten ton of ammo, gas, red meat and nice kitten for the price of a Wilson.

Now back on topic, I like TW-25B because it's almost more of a thick lubricant than a grease, thus in 100 degree humid, muggy Florida heat it stays in place, vs other lubricants which tend to seep out of my gun. I typically shoot what I consider a fair amount, I practice about 400 rounds a month, typically divided into four range sessions (1 a week) and clean my gun every month. Lately things have been a little different, between going through the fire academy, working a full time job and a part time job I've probably shot my P30 five hundred rounds in the past 6 months (not the pf.com way I know, but thats still 500 more rounds than the average a hi-point user will shoot, in practice that is. Thats not taking into consideration rival gang members) now mind you i've still been carrying this gun almost daily. Now that I'm done with the fire academy and only work one full time job, I got some time on my hands.

So last night I did about a 300 round rang session with my old man, everything went normal, actually surprisingly well seeing as I haven't shot in so long. The P30 performed as well as a pistol manufactured by the teutonic master race should. Some would even say it ran "flawlessly." Today I break the gun apart to finally clean it and it looked like all the liquid had separated and evaporated from the TW-25B and what was left was this sort of dried powdery sludge stuff. Any one else ever had this happen?

[JBP55]

Your TW-25B melted when you got the pistol hot and debris mixed with the lubricant.

[Sparks2112]

I drank way to much cuban espresso so heres the cliff notes for those that don't want to read a novel...

kitten I learned today:

1. Clean the gun once a month regardless of shooting?
2. Germans make good stuff
3. I shouldn't drink six shots of cuban espresso.
4. TW-25B dries up if you let it sit too long?
5. I'm not as fast at vice presidente as Tom Cruise in Collateral


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDqLOJy0O_A


Full Version



Any one here who uses TW-25B grease ever have it dry up in a weapon they don't use often? I use TW-25B grease exclusively in my one and only pistola, a 9mm HK P30. Now you may be asking your self; why does Mr. Goodtimes only own one pistol? Well mostly because I'm a broke kitten college student, also because I cant really see what another handgun would do that my P30 doesn't, and I can buy a kitten ton of ammo, gas, red meat and nice kitten for the price of a Wilson.

Now back on topic, I like TW-25B because it's almost more of a thick lubricant than a grease, thus in 100 degree humid, muggy Florida heat it stays in place, vs other lubricants which tend to seep out of my gun. I typically shoot what I consider a fair amount, I practice about 400 rounds a month, typically divided into four range sessions (1 a week) and clean my gun every month. Lately things have been a little different, between going through the fire academy, working a full time job and a part time job I've probably shot my P30 five hundred rounds in the past 6 months (not the pf.com way I know, but thats still 500 more rounds than the average a hi-point user will shoot, in practice that is. Thats not taking into consideration rival gang members) now mind you i've still been carrying this gun almost daily. Now that I'm done with the fire academy and only work one full time job, I got some time on my hands.

So last night I did about a 300 round rang session with my old man, everything went normal, actually surprisingly well seeing as I haven't shot in so long. The P30 performed as well as a pistol manufactured by the teutonic master race should. Some would even say it ran "flawlessly." Today I break the gun apart to finally clean it and it looked like all the liquid had separated and evaporated from the TW-25B and what was left was this sort of dried powdery sludge stuff. Any one else ever had this happen?

Anyone else feel like buying a cat?:confused:

[Mr. Goodtimes]

I sea wut you did there. Sorry for the language Todd.


Would it be advisable to move away from the TW25B grease and towards a traditional lubricant? I went with the grease for the reasons I stated as well as having read a lot of great things about it.

[Sparks2112]

I sea wut you did there.


Would it be advisable to move away from the TW25B grease and towards a traditional lubricant? I went with the grease for the reasons I stated as well as having read a lot of great things about it.

I'm personally a fan of Froglube. As I mature as a shooter though and talk to more people who know way more about things than I do I'm sort of figuring out that it probably doesn't matter too much.

[orionz06]

I don't have the heat to deal with that you do but my gun is always in my crotch and it is always warm. Oil works just fine. People like FrogLube because you can feed it to your baby and what not but it appears to do OK in not getting everywhere. That said, I have no issues with my gun drying out using oil and it will make 2,000 rounds just fine, even with dirty ammo. In a pistol the lube really just needs to be there. WeaponShield Grease seems to be doing a good job on a G17 I applied a sample of it to. It's been subject to some heat cycles from a floor vent, on purpose, and hasn't seemed to change like I have noted other greases to.

Again though, pick a good oil and you'll be fine. There is a reason that the old guys that have been around forever use whatever is free. There is also a reason many of them chuckle when people talk about space shuttle door de-squeaker. It works, but so does most everything else.

[Mr. Goodtimes]

I don't have the heat to deal with that you do but my gun is always in my crotch and it is always warm. Oil works just fine. People like FrogLube because you can feed it to your baby and what not but it appears to do OK in not getting everywhere. That said, I have no issues with my gun drying out using oil and it will make 2,000 rounds just fine, even with dirty ammo. In a pistol the lube really just needs to be there. WeaponShield Grease seems to be doing a good job on a G17 I applied a sample of it to. It's been subject to some heat cycles from a floor vent, on purpose, and hasn't seemed to change like I have noted other greases to.

Again though, pick a good oil and you'll be fine. There is a reason that the old guys that have been around forever use whatever is free. There is also a reason many of them chuckle when people talk about space shuttle door de-squeaker. It works, but so does most everything else.

I agree, wonder lubes don't do anything for me either and it cracks me up when people ask what miracle lubricant they should use or how often/well they should clean their gun. I suppose I'll stick to the TW25 and just be more vigilant about not leaving it on for so long.. I may even go back to using Royal Purple 10W40. Orionz, It literally gets so hot down here that I've pulled my gun out of the truck before and the lube was literally seeping out from multiple crevices, and I lube my P30 lightly so it's not like I went full retard with the stuff. Thus I switched to a grease.

[orionz06]

FrogLube may be worth looking into. Not because it will regrow hair and help make a mojito but because enough people have used it and we know it works and it does stay put. The magic stops there but it is functional, just not magic.

[campbed]

Good timing! Just last month I changed my cleaning and pre-range gear up process due to TW25B.
I went to the range after a gap of 3 weeks, and during pre-range inspection, I noticed that the TW25b looked noticeably drier (not dry, just not as wet looking as when first applied). So...
The end of my cleaning process included lubing rails with TW25B, and very light coat of Mil-comm oil on the barrel and critical rubby bits inside the slide.
I've now moved that part of the procedure to prep steps on range day right before I head out the door. Everything is wet as I want it to be, makes me not think of lubrication but shooting mechanics, makes me feel better.
My environment is New England. Very cold, not very hot. In fact, that may be the issue, cold. The relative humidity gets VERY LOW when it is winter, and everything including my skin dries up.
Your mileage may very. And stay safe.

ps. The more I learn, the more I'm with the Sage level shooters here, use whatever grease/oil turns you on, clean when you feel like it. It is just two pieces of metal rubbing against each other, the world figured that all out over 100 years ago just fine. Don't over think it.

[Kyle Reese]

I've had excellent luck on personal and issued handguns using Froglube and Slide Glide (Light) in warm and cold climates. Both stay put, lubricate well and work as advertised. If a lubricant runs / burns off, simply reapply.

[GOTURBACK]

I personally use Slide Glide light in certain areas on my 45C and P2sk never noticed that it dried out at all, and never had any malfunctions in the freezing cold either it works good for me.

[cclaxton]

http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?4448-POLL-Which-Commercially-available-gun-oils-do-you-recommend-(Not-grease)&highlight=poll+lubricant

My top three:
- Slipstream Oil for everything except the area where the hammer rides against the bottom of the slide;
- Militec-1 grease for the area where the hammer rides against the bottom of the slide;
- Militec-1 oil on the outside of the gun where I want to prevent corrosion/exposure. Actually, I usually treat the entire steel parts with Militec-1 Oil then wipe it down and add Slipstream to the slide rails, outside of barrel, moving parts, etc. That way I am getting the prevention properties of Militec.

Others to consider that I have usedd:
- Zero Friction Oil: Excellent at preventing friction, but evaporates quickly;
- Slip 2000 Extreme Weapons Oil...very good on repeating rifles...works great on handguns too...leaves lots of residue..my experience.
- TW-25B for underside of slide where hammer hits slide. ...mainly because I got a free bottle from a match;
- G96 Gun oil...Cz Custom swears by it...it works great, but I prefer Slipstream.

Also, if you write those lube manufacturers, they will send you free samples...you can probably live on frees samples for years.

CC

[1986s4]

I just moved from TX to GA and I used to live in FL so I know heat, both dry and humid. Enough to know that if given a choice between hot weather and extreme cold I'll take heat any day. I'll gladly go running when it's over 100deg. But hesitate when it gets below 40...
I used Slide Glide heavy with Mobile 1 for years with good results. I recently changed to Froglube. The sales guy, a retired Army Ranger, couldn't fault my former lube saying "I won't tell you Slide Glide doesn't work because it does"
I now use Froglube because it works, and I can use it indoors without offense to my wife.

[secondstoryguy]

XF7 works pretty well for me. It non-toxic, almost colorless, and seems to stay on real well despite the amount of heat it's exposed to.

[Suvorov]

I have used TW-25B for years and have been happy. I will usually not leave it in the greasy "white" form after application but rather rub it in so I have never had the condition which you describe, but it seems plausible.

All that said, I have probably purchased my last bit of it as I am increasingly becoming a fan of Mobile1. I started using it in my ARs a few years back because the lube I was using (CLP) was drying out and burning off too fast. Now I am applying it to pistols and it has proven to work just as well. I figure if it can handle the heat and compression in my SVT Cobra's engine, then it can certainly handle the heat and compression in my AR and the lock lugs of my Beretta.

[David Armstrong]

I have used TW-25B for years and have been happy. I will usually not leave it in the greasy "white" form after application but rather rub it in so I have never had the condition which you describe, but it seems plausible.

All that said, I have probably purchased my last bit of it as I am increasingly becoming a fan of Mobile1. I started using it in my ARs a few years back because the lube I was using (CLP) was drying out and burning off too fast. Now I am applying it to pistols and it has proven to work just as well. I figure if it can handle the heat and compression in my SVT Cobra's engine, then it can certainly handle the heat and compression in my AR and the lock lugs of my Beretta.
+1. I started using Mobil 1 quite a while back on the advice of Teddy Jacobson, who used it when he tuned my Python. Since that is what I put in my generator I've always got some laying around the place and it seems to work fine.

[JonInWA]

I've used TW25B for years with a very high level of satisfaction/performance with it. If you look at Mil-Comm's instructions/guidance for use (and there are very detailed guides for the Beretta M9/92 and AR15 platforms), you'll notice that actually minimal amounts needed in most locations for adequate coverage.

Best, Jon

[JBP55]

Mobil 1 works for me.

[Corey]

I first discovered TW25B in the early 90’s. I like it, especially the way it stayed in the gun during the Arizona summers I was enjoying in those days, but would not go out of my way to use it exclusively. I subscribe to the “use whatever is free or available at the moment” school so I have used motor oil, break free, FP-10, and most of the others as well at various times. Since I did get a few more free tubes of TW25B a couple of years ago, I am continuing to use it as my go to lube.

[Mr. Goodtimes]

Well I'm not going to go out of my way to use it but I'll certainly continue to as I've got a huge tub of the stuff in the garage that I paid around 40 bucks for. I like what was posted earlier about watering it down a little with some oil.

[rockymtnnut]

Mobile one axle grease synthetic 6 dollars for a lifetime supply. There is no pistol out that can generate pressure and heat constantly like an axle can. I just works or a tube of lubriplate just the same. I find gun grease to be a rip off. I carry a p30 as well.

[cclaxton]

http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?4448-POLL-Which-Commercially-available-gun-oils-do-you-recommend-(Not-grease)&highlight=tw-25b+slip+2000

One not on this list is froglube, which has become popular recently.

My favorites are SlipStream Oil, and Pro-Shot Zero friction http://www.proshotproducts.com/Zero-Friction-1-oz-Needle-Oiler_p_618.html

I also use some grease on the underside of the slide where it rides against the hammer.

TW-25B is okay as well, and Wilson Combat Ultima Lube which seems to work great on 1911 slides..

Those that shoot regularly and clean regularly with Militec should be fine, but there have been some complaints about long-term storage with Militec turning into gunk difficult to clean.

Slip 2000 is very popular around here as well.

CC

[reloader550]

TW-25B and Militec Oil is all I use on my hand guns, Militec Oil for my AR-15 and other assorted rifles.

[David Armstrong]

Again though, pick a good oil and you'll be fine. There is a reason that the old guys that have been around forever use whatever is free. There is also a reason many of them chuckle when people talk about space shuttle door de-squeaker. It works, but so does most everything else.
Since being introduced to Mobil 1 by Teddy Jacobson I've seen little need for anything else!:cool:

[JohnK]

TW-25B and Militec Oil is all I use on my hand guns, Militec Oil for my AR-15 and other assorted rifles.

Same here.

[Rich]

I've read that when using TW-25B Grease .

One shouldn't use another lube along with it. Other oils might effect the grease when they mix..

I would think TW25 B Grease and TW25 Oil would work well together !


BTW
I notice when I took my slide off my new P30S that HK might use elephant sperm as well.

[TigerStripe]

I've used TW-25B on my M&P9 for seven years without issues. I do rub or smear it on when I apply it as was mentioned above. I use Breakfree CLP or Slip 2000 on all my other weapons. I wouldn't become wed to a particular lube unless I were looking for something "green", non-toxic or without an oily smell.

[LSP972]

space shuttle door de-squeaker....

LOL. Have to remember that one... I know just who to use it on.

Like most of us, I have been intrigued by snake oil in the past... but those days are done. Rotating stuff gets light machine oil, sliding stuff gets LubriPlate 130-A. That's talking lubrication.

For "protection", I use Rig grease on my blued competition shotguns and regular "gun oil" (Hoppes, Outers, whatever is to hand), applied by shaving brush, to my AR carbines and M1.

I tried Mobil One; having used it on bullseye-tuned 1911s, I knew it worked well for that purpose. I found it a bit too "runny" for concealed carry, as some eventually found its way onto my clothes. That's when, after reading about it somewhere, I began using LubriPlate grease for something besides the M1, and I haven't looked back.

FWIW, I think any grease will eventually "dry out" and flake, etc., as noted by the OP. LubriPlate certainly does... but it takes months of inactivity, and there is still a film of lube there. On a pistol that is carried IWB, its a total non-issue. Your body heat keeps the grease semi-liquid.

What I like is the grease's ability to stay there without evaporating. While I haven't tried everything, I've tried a lot of them; and the only "store-bought" lube (other than grease) I've tried that has extended staying power is Tetra Gun Lubricant. But it has an objectionable (to my wife) odor, so I've gotten away from using it... although I still have some for hard times, etc. I've left a pistol lubed with it totally un-attended for six months, and there was still a good film of lubricant where I had applied it. If I were involved in extended field operations, that's the stuff I would pack in my cleaning kit.

There are so many different types of "gun" lubes out there now, each claiming to be the best, that it can give you a headache trying to sort through all of them. I have come to realize that as long as you use SOMETHING, most any quality lubricant will work.

I draw the line at WD-40, though...;)

.

[NETim]

I have long suspected Wilson's Ultimate Lube is some variety of Lubriplate in disguise.

[SiGFever]

I have used TW-25B in the past on my SiG's but have transitioned to Slide-Glide (standard and Lite) and Slip 2000 EWL for my pistols and rifles.

[Aray]

Grease is generally nothing more than a lubricating oil (usually mineral oil) with a thickener and an additive package. The major players are the base oil and the additive package when it comes to the performance of the lubricant. The thickener is sometimes referred to as the sponge that holds the additive and base oil together.

The most popular thickeners are metallic soaps made form things like clay, lithium, calcium, polyurea, sodium and aluminum. The thickener is the major player in determining the grease's Drop Point.

The additive package will usually contain some cocktail of extreme pressure (EP), rust and oxidation inhibitors, and friction-reducing constituants, and sometimes boundary additives like Moly and Graphite. It is sometimes difficult to tell which greases are designed for what, without some baseline knowledge or research on all of the ASTM Testing Standards and the specific grease's performance in those tests.

Grease is generally specified in an open system that has high load and relatively slow speeds, or has intermittent shock loads. Grease is also often specified in a difficult to physically service area (read: hard to get at it, think wheel bearing or universal joint on a car or truck).


All of this being said. I personnaly don't recommend grease on a pistol. They are too easy to lube with a high quality, low volatility, medium/high viscosity oil. Using a low vis oil as a lubricant will exacerbate the oil on your clothes problem. Use a lubricating oil (higher vis) and not a penetrating oil (low vis). For example the 20w-50 oil I use in my motorcycle has a kinematic viscosity of 162.2 cSt at 40C and a pour point of -40F, I see no reason to use an oil with a lower viscosity index than that.

[JBP55]

I use Mobil 1 20W50 in my pistols and have never had any run off on my clothes or at the range.

[justintime]

I've been trying frog lube recently and like it. I don't think I like it as much as motul chain lube and bearing grease on the frame rails.

[LSP972]

I use Mobil 1 20W50 in my pistols and have never had any run off on my clothes or at the range.

What kind of "staying power" does it have? The main reason I tried grease was to avoid the weekly reestablish-the-oil-film dance. On a firearm kept ready (but laying idle, particularly in higher temperatures) just about every oil type I've tried except the Mobil One, (and that was 10W-30 IIRC) will evaporate in a couple of weeks or less. The Tetra stuff doesn't, but has a really bad odor.

LubriPlate 130-A has been working really well for me, but I'm always open to new ideas.

.

[JBP55]

What kind of "staying power" does it have? The main reason I tried grease was to avoid the weekly reestablish-the-oil-film dance. On a firearm kept ready (but laying idle, particularly in higher temperatures) just about every oil type I've tried except the Mobil One, (and that was 10W-30 IIRC) will evaporate in a couple of weeks or less. The Tetra stuff doesn't, but has a really bad odor.

LubriPlate 130-A has been working really well for me, but I'm always open to new ideas.

.


After a month you can still feel the slick finish where the Mobil 1 20W50 was applied. The 20W50 has more additives than the lightweight oils.
If your oil is too light for you add a little STP, if it is too heavy add a little Dextron ATF.

[Aray]

After a month you can still feel the slick finish where the Mobil 1 20W50 was applied. The 20W50 has more additives than the lightweight oils.
If your oil is too light for you add a little STP, if it is too heavy add a little Dextron ATF.

The viscosity rating of an oil has nothing to do with how quickly it evaporates, it is simply a measure of it's resistance to flow. What you are talking about is the oil's volatility. It is called NOACK Volatility, measured by % weight loss (g/100g) using the ASTM D5800 standard. Additives that raise viscosity (improvers) don't have much direct impact on volatility.

[JBP55]

The viscosity rating of an oil has nothing to do with how quickly it evaporates, it is simply a measure of it's resistance to flow. What you are talking about is the oil's volatility. It is called NOACK Volatility, measured by % weight loss (g/100g) using the ASTM D5800 standard. Additives that raise viscosity (improvers) don't have much direct impact on volatility.


You sound like an Engineer and I worked with many Mechanical Engineers as a Millwright prior to retiring.
I made no reference to what you are referring but I did make reference to making the oil thinner or thicker depending on your needs.

[Aray]

After a month you can still feel the slick finish where the Mobil 1 20W50 was applied. The 20W50 has more additives than the lightweight oils.

I was speaking about this point, I assumed you were referring to viscosity improvers. If you weren't, what additives did you mean?

[JBP55]

After a month you can still feel the slick finish where the Mobil 1 20W50 was applied.
The 20W50 has more additives than the lightweight oils.
If your oil is too light for you add a little STP, if it is too heavy add a little Dextron ATF.


Sentence one is about how long the lubricant stays on the pistol.
Sentence two is about the additional EP/AW additives in most racing oil.
Sentence three is about changing the thickness to suit your needs.
Which sentence are you confused about?

[Aray]

Sentence two. Since you clarified what you didn't say, EP additives are completely useless in a pistol lube as the load is nowhere near enough to crush a hydro wedge and AW are also a waste as the duty cycle is far too low to matter.

[JBP55]

I will continue to use a lubricant (Mobil 1 20W50) with more anti wear additives.


20W50 (VTWIN)
P/P: -59.8 F
F/P: +518.0 F
V/100: 130.0 cSt
V/212: 17.7 cSt
TOR: 577.8 F
VI: 151

[Aray]

It will work very well, just not for the reasons you think it will.

[LSP972]

Jeez... I think I'll stay with grease...:cool:

.

[jkurtz7]

Hello,

First post here at Pistol Forum. I like grease, and have tried TW25b and found that it dries up in about a month on guns that just sit in the safe. I much prefer Tetra grease, it doesn't seem to dry out like TW25b. Matter of fact, yesterday, I tore down my Mossberg 500 for a thorough cleaning and relube. The last time I had it apart was fall of last year. I had used Tetra on the bolt and carrier, both still had "wet" Tetra grease on them.

[TGS]

FWIW, Gray Guns uses that nasty black caliper grease.

It's an excellent grease, IMO.


20W50 (VTWIN)
P/P: -59.8 F
F/P: +518.0 F
V/100: 130.0 cSt
V/212: 17.7 cSt
TOR: 577.8 F
VI: 151

What does all that mean?

[JBP55]

I will continue to use a lubricant (Mobil 1 20W50) with more anti wear additives.


20W50 (VTWIN)
P/P: -59.8 F
F/P: +518.0 F
V/100: 130.0 cSt
V/212: 17.7 cSt
TOR: 577.8 F
VI: 151

Pour point.
Flash point.
Viscosity at 100 F.
Viscosity at 212 F.
Transient operating temperature.
Viscosity index.

[TGS]

Pour point.
Flash point.
Viscosity at 100 F.
Viscosity at 212 F.
Transient operating temperature.
Viscosity index.

So what does that mean for me as a shooter? :p

[JV_]

So what does that mean for me as a shooter? :pWhere the average gun temperatures are no where near that of the inside of an engine, there's no gasoline combustion byproducts to be neutralized, and we're not driving 5000 miles ....

IMO - Pick something and use it. This doesn't need to be difficult, complicated, or expensive.

[cmoore]

@Aray, you appear to know a lot about machine lubrication. What do you use to lubricate and protect your guns?

[JBP55]

All of this being said. I personnaly don't recommend grease on a pistol. They are too easy to lube with a high quality, low volatility, medium/high viscosity oil. Using a low vis oil as a lubricant will exacerbate the oil on your clothes problem. Use a lubricating oil (higher vis) and not a penetrating oil (low vis). For example the 20w-50 oil I use in my motorcycle has a kinematic viscosity of 162.2 cSt at 40C and a pour point of -40F, I see no reason to use an oil with a lower viscosity index than that.


CMOORE,
This is from one of Aray's posts which is #31 in this thread.

[Aray]

@Aray, you appear to know a lot about machine lubrication. What do you use to lubricate and protect your guns?

In pistols it's really not that big of a deal, ironically I often use Amsoil 20w-50 Motorcycle oil as that is what I run in my bike or whatever other synthetic motor oil I have on hand. Any Group III or IV based synthetic motor oil is more than sufficient for a pistol and way cheaper than any gun lube. All a lube really has to be on a pistol is 'there'. The difference in performance of specific lubricants is really mostly measured by how often you need to reapply, and how easy/hard it will be to clean the gun later. I would not be afraid to use nearly any lube if it was all I could get my hands on in a class or during a range session, as I have had to in the past.

Synthetics (Group IV and Group III base stocks to a slightly lesser extent) usually have less volatility and will evaporate more slowly (storage/carrying) and 'burn off' when hot more slowly (while shooting). This isn't to say the base stock itself is 'better' necessarily in this specific parameter, but a function of base stock performance in conjunction with the total additive package. The synthetics usually have very good corrosion inhibition performance and tend to have robust detergent and dispersant packages to allow easier cleaning. As far as mechanical removal by slide cyling, it doesn't matter much what you use, enough slide cycles will remove the bulk of any lubricant.

In my experience, blowback actions like .22s tend to like a much thinner lube, especially in cold weather.

Greases tend to separate in storage, even when stored on your gun (see ASTM D1742-06 Standard if you need help sleeping). They can also adversely effect function in cold weather. I do not recommend them, but that is not to say they won't 'work' to a reasonable extent. It's just not an optimum application for that type of lube IMO.

An AR is a different animal, but that is beyond the scope of this thread.


Hope this helps.

[Chuck Haggard]

I really enjoy when a thread gets all sciencey and whatnot.


I tend to use whatever I have available, although lately a jug of Mobil1 and some needle oilers from Brownells have been my go-to choices.


I have "fixed" way too many choked M16s, 1911s and machine guns with either a squirt from a bottle of BreakFree CLP or some drippings off of a dip stick to worry about magic gun oils.

I have also noted that the blow back guns of smaller caliber do tend to bog down in cold weather when the lube is too heavy.


My carry guns have two lube states, my daily carry/going to shoot a few rounds amount of lube, and my at a class and going to burn lots of ammo extra lube added state.

[JBP55]

This is a post from a retired LEO who really believes in Mobil 1 20W50 oil as a gun lubricant. Not my post.



I have used M1 for well over ten years now, probably closer to thirteen truth be told, though I cannot give you an exact date, as a lubricant for both my personal firearms and my issued duty weapons each of which has performed faithfully and flawlessly ever since.

My issued sidearm has varied over those years where I have employed M1 20w50 as a small arms lubricant from a S&W 5906 (which I now own) to a SigSauer P226 to a Glock 17. Additionally, my issued Remington 870 and for the four years that I was assigned to our Special Operations Div., my issued MP5, was also so lubricated.

All of these duty weapons were lubricated exclusively with M1 20w50 and saw typical use ranging from sector assigned street patrol duty to Special Operations duty (warrant services for fugitives, methamphetamine labs and drug houses) depending on which period of my career in L.E. is being considered.

My issued weapons were exposed to all manner of environments and I never saw any rust or corrosion on any of them or suffered malfunctions due to the lubricant that I was using. In short, I have used M1 on all of them without issue or concern.

Now retired from the L.E. field, I still routinely carry a 9mm Glock 17 for CCW/personal defense (under LEOSA2004) purposes and it too, is lubricated with M1 20w50.

I have been on safari in Tanzania (Selous, just across from the Ruaha National Park on the Ruaha River) where I shot two Cape Buffalo, one of which charged from 60 meters out to within less than 15 feet of me before it finally fell after sucking up 7 solid hits as he came for me, from my .375 H&H and M1 did fine there even with the blowing dust and sandy grit.

I have been in Alaska on black bear hunts and M1 did fine there even when the rifle that I was using was damp with moisture that eventually froze on its exposed surfaces.

I have been on several hunts throughout the U.S. that occurred in varied terrains ranging from densely wooded areas to the plains (Montana) and M1 did fine there, too.

So I have (and always will) trusted my life several times to M1 and given the chance to do it over again, which I would happliy do, I'd still use M1.

[Aray]

This is a post from a retired LEO who really believes in Mobil 1 20W50 oil as a gun lubricant. Not my post.



I have used M1 for well over ten years now, probably closer to thirteen truth be told, though I cannot give you an exact date, as a lubricant for both my personal firearms and my issued duty weapons each of which has performed faithfully and flawlessly ever since.

My issued sidearm has varied over those years where I have employed M1 20w50 as a small arms lubricant from a S&W 5906 (which I now own) to a SigSauer P226 to a Glock 17. Additionally, my issued Remington 870 and for the four years that I was assigned to our Special Operations Div., my issued MP5, was also so lubricated.

All of these duty weapons were lubricated exclusively with M1 20w50 and saw typical use ranging from sector assigned street patrol duty to Special Operations duty (warrant services for fugitives, methamphetamine labs and drug houses) depending on which period of my career in L.E. is being considered.

My issued weapons were exposed to all manner of environments and I never saw any rust or corrosion on any of them or suffered malfunctions due to the lubricant that I was using. In short, I have used M1 on all of them without issue or concern.

Now retired from the L.E. field, I still routinely carry a 9mm Glock 17 for CCW/personal defense (under LEOSA2004) purposes and it too, is lubricated with M1 20w50.

I have been on safari in Tanzania (Selous, just across from the Ruaha National Park on the Ruaha River) where I shot two Cape Buffalo, one of which charged from 60 meters out to within less than 15 feet of me before it finally fell after sucking up 7 solid hits as he came for me, from my .375 H&H and M1 did fine there even with the blowing dust and sandy grit.

I have been in Alaska on black bear hunts and M1 did fine there even when the rifle that I was using was damp with moisture that eventually froze on its exposed surfaces.

I have been on several hunts throughout the U.S. that occurred in varied terrains ranging from densely wooded areas to the plains (Montana) and M1 did fine there, too.

So I have (and always will) trusted my life several times to M1 and given the chance to do it over again, which I would happliy do, I'd still use M1.

I completely agree.

[Aray]

My carry guns have two lube states, my daily carry/going to shoot a few rounds amount of lube, and my at a class and going to burn lots of ammo extra lube added state.

I also subscribe to this methodology. My first shot at a match or a class usually leaves a bit of lubricant specks on my glasses.

[cclaxton]

Has anyone tried PTFE embedded lubricants or dry-PTFE type lubricants on their pistols?
What was your experience.
The theory is that the PTFE will stay even after the petroleum component has evaporated.
See Tri-Flow.

CC

[Aray]

Has anyone tried PTFE embedded lubricants or dry-PTFE type lubricants on their pistols?
What was your experience.
The theory is that the PTFE will stay even after the petroleum component has evaporated.
See Tri-Flow.

CC

Dry lubes seem to underperform oil as a general pistol lube.

There is data that backs that up. If you compare the 4 Ball-Wear Test (ASTM D4172 and D2266) results of PTFE dry lube like WD-40 Specialist or Liquid Wrench Dry Lube to a high quality sythetic motor oil like Mobile 1 or Amsoil you'll find the dry lube scar sizes for dry lubes range from 1.2-2.5mm while many motor oils range from 0.35-0.6mm, Tri-Flow comes in at 0.5mm. The difference is substantial between wet and dry even when the pressure is very high and the oil is operating as a low efficiency boundary lubricant.

If PTFE is exposed to temps above about 400-500F pyrolysis can occur and produce hydrofluoric acid. I would definitely avoid it in the barrel, wet or dry. I have not seen any studies or evidence that have shown bore damage, that is just an opinion.

[jkurtz7]

I choose to lube my carry pistols with grease because it stay put, and doesn't creep from lubed parts/slide rails, or run out on to my holsters and clothing.

My EDC G26 has never failed due to being greased, nor has my Beretta 92 Vertec, or EG Makarov.

I've tried M1 in the past, it without question is good oil, but still doesn't stay put as well as I would prefer, so I quit using it. For parts that really need liquid lube, I use Tetra Lube, and it does actually stay in place rather well.

[JBP55]

If your lubricant is running from your gun onto your holster and clothes you should use less oil and probably a heavier weight. I have never had oil run from my pistols unto my clothes.

[campbed]

Didn't see Lubriplate (non-toxic and food grade safe) mentioned, this is my current upcoming experiment to move away from Mobile 1 synth.

Food for thought.

Why? = http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

GREASE:
current - Mobil 1 Synthetic http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-Syntheti...mobil+1+grease ($9.99 - lifetime supply)
experimenting - Lubriplate http://www.midwayusa.com/product/379...la=ProductDesc ($11.99 - lifetime supply)
retired - TW25B, Ballistol(yea I know...)
OIL:
current - Ballistol
experimenting - Lubriplate FMO 350 http://store.rsci.com/fmo-350-aw-oil-spray.html ($11.99 - lifetime supply)
retired - none
CLEANER:
current - Ballistol
experimenting - M-Pro 7 http://www.amazon.com/M-Pro-Cleaner-Ounce-Spray-Bottle/dp/B003LB9B2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379381746&sr=8-1&keywords=M-Pro+7+Gun+Cleaner
retired - none

[JV_]

Didn't see Lubriplate (non-toxic and food grade safe) mentionedI use it, just like any other grease I've tried - it works.

[justintime]

I use it, just like any other grease I've tried - it works.

Is that what was on the pistol you shipped? That stuff seems legit.

[JV_]

Is that what was on the pistol you shipped? That stuff seems legit.

I think used Enos Slide Glide (Lite), which is red in color.

[LSP972]

Didn't see Lubriplate (non-toxic and food grade safe) mentioned,

See post #28.

I have been using LubriPlate 130-A for several years now, with excellent results.

Dunno about it being food-safe and non-toxic, though... I don't ingest it or bathe in it...

.

[psalms144.1]

I'm a "snake oil" sucker - and, being exiled to NYS and unable to buy any of the toys I REALLY want, I have to spend my "gun money" on something, I guess.

In the past, I've used Breakfree ('cause the Army gave it to us, so it had to be good, right?), TWB-25 - both in grease and spray, Eezox, Corrosion-X, M-Pro-7, Remoil, Frog Lube, whatever came down the pike. I'm waiting for bottles of Rand CLP and Fireclean to arrive, to do a comparison test against the FL. I like the Frog Lube, and the fact that it smells good, so Mrs. Psalms doesn't make me clean my guns in the garage, but the whole heat treatment, don't mix with other products routine is a drag. I'm also significantly underwhelmed with FL's rust prevention - got DRAMATIC rust on my P30 one hot, humid day with the P30 in an IWB when the front Meprolights turned orange in a couple of hours and rust "dripped" down the slide. Not happy!

The older I get (and poorer, thanks to Gov Cuomo's tax system), the less I believe that any of this stuff makes a difference. I've probably got a lifetime supply of FL left, and expect the Fireclean and RAND will last a long time as well, but, when/if I'm running low, it sounds like Mobil 1 grease and oil are all I'll really need - given that my agency issues me all the MPro-7 I could want for cleaning purposes...

Regards,

Kevin