Maintenance on Surplus p226

[Morbidbattlecry]

I'm about to pick up one of wideners surplus p226( if the last long enough for me to get my taxes back). Any tips on what to check and replace? I am going to swap out the recoil spring of course. And probably change the hand grips. Anything else or should i go out and shoot it and see if anything goes wrong, after i clean it that is. I'm kinda new to sigs and i'm trying to do my homework as best i can. I have thought about sending it in for Sigs checkup program but i don't mind tearing the gun down and checking things out.

Also i'm used to using the slide release on my glock and 1911 to drop the slide. The 226 slide release seams a little far back then i'm used too. Am i going to have too much of a problem switching between the 3? I'm a righty and i use my left hand thumb to drop the slide.

[WDW]

I'd send it in & have it completely resprung & inspected.

[JV_]

Does it have a one piece slide, or a breech block?

If it has a breech block, I'd replace those pins. I'd consider getting a parts kit from Top Gun Supply and putting in fresh springs.
http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig_p226-9mm_parts-kit.html

[Morbidbattlecry]

http://wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=100000451 here is a link. I'm not sure about the slide. I have heard about replacing the Pins along with springs.

[JV_]

I'd need to see the top of the slide to determine if it has a block.

[JDM]

Thats an old style takedown lever. I'm betting breech block/stamped slide.

[GJM]

What is the recommended replacement cycle on pins on the old slide 226/228, and what happens if you don't replace them in time?

[JV_]

What is the recommended replacement cycle on pins on the old slide 226/228, and what happens if you don't replace them in time?
I don't know what the replacement schedule is.

The damage it can cause:
http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?4741-Cherry-Picking-a-P226&p=82188&viewfull=1#post82188


FWIW: There's also a picture in that thread for how to identify the older breech block slides.

[Morbidbattlecry]

I'm starting to wish the showed the other side of the gun. If its a stamped gun are the internal extractors a problem?

[Morbidbattlecry]

After reading the posted thread i'm thinking of avoiding this particular gun.

[Joe Mamma]

Thats an old style takedown lever. I'm betting breech block/stamped slide.

I'd bet the same way. It's got older grips too.

PMMorbidbattlecry, you might find this thread helpful:
http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?3915-226-Spare-s-Bin&highlight=spare%27s

One thing you might not know is that on these Sigs, the grip screws come loose frequently. So check your grip screw tightness often, but don't over-tighten them. You will strip the female threads in the frame. Some people simply use Loctite on the grip screws.

I think you are fine to wait and replace the slide pins when the breach block starts to come loose.

I don't think you'll have any issues dropping the slide with your left thumb. You just need to get used to another gun.

Joe Mamma

[WDW]

Nooo!!! It's fine. I'm 99.9% sure it's a stamped slide Sig with removeable breech block, almost all surplus P226's are, but that's ok. Internal extractors were only problems on the newer machined, stainless slides. Just get it resprung & replace the takedown lever & roll pin & you'll be golden.

[Morbidbattlecry]

Nooo!!! It's fine. I'm 99.9% sure it's a stamped slide Sig with removeable breech block, almost all surplus P226's are, but that's ok. Internal extractors were only problems on the newer machined, stainless slides. Just get it resprung & replace the takedown lever & roll pin & you'll be golden.

If you say so. :cool: I just noticed the West german guns everyone seams to like have internal extractors as well. So i guess They can't be all that bad.

[Odin Bravo One]

I shot an older model Sig 226 up to almost 75,000 rounds. There were just under 20k on it when I got it. Nice and broken in. I had a guy give it a once over, and replace pins and springs. I never maintained it again, except the occasional cleaning.

Then the cracks started showing up. No point in crying about it, so I just shot it until I sheared a rail.

But when we consider bottom of the barrel, cheapo, pre-panic prices on 9mm were about $189 per thousand (if bought in bulk and on sale), times 75, we have $14,175......... That's about 15 brand new Sig's. I paid about 1/2 of retail for the pistol, and I'd say it was a worthwhile investment.............

[GJM]

Sean, given a choice would you pick a new production 226, or a certified pre owned, CPO, older German 226?

[MD7305]

It's stamped, you can see the roll pin that holds the breechblock in the slide. Fine guns. As others have said, buy a parts kit from TopGunSupply or send it to Sig.

[Odin Bravo One]

Sean, given a choice would you pick a new production 226, or a certified pre owned, CPO, older German 226?

I dunno..........It was brought to my attention that most of the Sig's I shoot probably have a little better QA/QC than run of the mill 226's. I got three brand new guns in the last four years, and while I have been nothing but happy with the last three I have had, I don't know that it's a fair comparison to other new manufacture guns.

I never really cared for the German triggers. For some reason, the ones I had were either too heavy, gritty, or both. They also took a lot of effort to clean up. But, I also had a lot of rounds through the two German built Sig's I owned. The used one lasted over 10 years, and was the "abuse" gun. It's replacement was only sold because I was young and poor, and wanted a 226R and couldn't have both.

The grips on the older guns left a lot to be desired for me as well. Plastic was very hard, and very slick.

I think all three types had their advantages and disadvantages. My only real complaint about the new production guns is the reporting of small parts breakage long before they should have been replaced. I personally have not had it happen, but I did break a recoil spring after 12k rounds, which while needing replacement 7,000 rounds ago......was a first for me. I had never replaced a recoil spring, and had never had one break on me.

I have been very fortunate with all of my Sig's. They have all worked flawlessly throughout their service lives, and the one continued to work great right up until it quit for good. The last session started to show problems, so we just shot it hard and fast until it broke. My only complaints I have had with Sig's is small parts and springs rusting. The grip screws on some liked to back out and/or not hold the grips tight (mostly on the older guns). Loctite and/or replacing the screws or grips fixed that issue. Drowing the gun in WD40 before it went swimming, and figuring out a solid post-swim cleaning routine solved the rust issue.

If money wasn't an issue, I'd buy a new 226R. And a spare parts pack. It fits most holsters out there, and I like being able to mount an X200/X300 light if I want to.

I like the older guns, and didn't have reliability issues with them at all. But the rail is important enough to me to rule the classic 226 out. Even with the MR14 rail, it's not the same as a built in rail. It requires a special holster, and the placement of the light ends up requiring the DG switch just to use the light (for me), and I don't like the DG switch at all.

The Mk25 has yet to fit a kydex holster I have tried, and I have tried several. I commisioned custom leather from JRC for the special edition Mk25 I bought recently.

As usual, that was probably a lot of talk, without a lot of real answers..........hopefully someone found something useful from that. I have to stop replying at 2:00AM.

[Morbidbattlecry]

I dunno..........It was brought to my attention that most of the Sig's I shoot probably have a little better QA/QC than run of the mill 226's. I got three brand new guns in the last four years, and while I have been nothing but happy with the last three I have had, I don't know that it's a fair comparison to other new manufacture guns.

I never really cared for the German triggers. For some reason, the ones I had were either too heavy, gritty, or both. They also took a lot of effort to clean up. But, I also had a lot of rounds through the two German built Sig's I owned. The used one lasted over 10 years, and was the "abuse" gun. It's replacement was only sold because I was young and poor, and wanted a 226R and couldn't have both.

The grips on the older guns left a lot to be desired for me as well. Plastic was very hard, and very slick.

I think all three types had their advantages and disadvantages. My only real complaint about the new production guns is the reporting of small parts breakage long before they should have been replaced. I personally have not had it happen, but I did break a recoil spring after 12k rounds, which while needing replacement 7,000 rounds ago......was a first for me. I had never replaced a recoil spring, and had never had one break on me.

I have been very fortunate with all of my Sig's. They have all worked flawlessly throughout their service lives, and the one continued to work great right up until it quit for good. The last session started to show problems, so we just shot it hard and fast until it broke. My only complaints I have had with Sig's is small parts and springs rusting. The grip screws on some liked to back out and/or not hold the grips tight (mostly on the older guns). Loctite and/or replacing the screws or grips fixed that issue. Drowing the gun in WD40 before it went swimming, and figuring out a solid post-swim cleaning routine solved the rust issue.

If money wasn't an issue, I'd buy a new 226R. And a spare parts pack. It fits most holsters out there, and I like being able to mount an X200/X300 light if I want to.

I like the older guns, and didn't have reliability issues with them at all. But the rail is important enough to me to rule the classic 226 out. Even with the MR14 rail, it's not the same as a built in rail. It requires a special holster, and the placement of the light ends up requiring the DG switch just to use the light (for me), and I don't like the DG switch at all.

The Mk25 has yet to fit a kydex holster I have tried, and I have tried several. I commisioned custom leather from JRC for the special edition Mk25 I bought recently.

As usual, that was probably a lot of talk, without a lot of real answers..........hopefully someone found something useful from that. I have to stop replying at 2:00AM.

No you have helped me out alot. I always like learning new things anyways. If money wasn't an issue to me i would get a Mk25. Whenever the IRS gives me my money back i'll post an update with some pictures hopefully.

[Morbidbattlecry]

I've been eyeing spiral roll pins instead of the regular 2 pins. Is that something i should look into?

[mongooseman]

I've been eyeing spiral roll pins instead of the regular 2 pins. Is that something i should look into?

Are you familiar with Sig's service plans? For around $100 they will inspect your pistol and replace the springs. For about $125 they will inspect and add new night sights.
Every used Sig I ever owned, and there have been a few, were reliable and accurate, especially the W. German models. Classic, iconic handguns.

[ToddG]

I'd need to see the top of the slide to determine if it has a block.

Given the "hollow" look to the slide pin and the age of the gun I'd say it's guaranteed to be a stamped slide with removable breech block.


What is the recommended replacement cycle on pins on the old slide 226/228, and what happens if you don't replace them in time?

Replace the roll pins every 5k rounds.

For all SIGs, I'd recommend replacing the recoil spring every 5k rounds (3k for P220), and replacing all springs & pins every 10k. As Sean and others have demonstrated, that level of PM isn't required but it definitely helps keep the gun running its best if you're not one of the lucky people.


I'm starting to wish the showed the other side of the gun. If its a stamped gun are the internal extractors a problem?

Not at all. SIG made its guns with that internal extractor for decades and built its reputation on the reliability of such guns. The design is substantially different than a 1911 internal extractor. The move to an external extractor was based solely on the change from a two-piece slide with removable breech block (in which the internal extractor was installed) to a one-piece solid slide.


I dunno..........It was brought to my attention that most of the Sig's I shoot probably have a little better QA/QC than run of the mill 226's.

Actually, I doubt that is true until '06 or so when SIG stopped test firing commercial grade guns. The only key difference is that the NSW guns used internal parts that were finished differently. Therefore, it's possible that those parts were still produced on legacy equipment by SIG instead of being farmed out to subcontractors. Many of the problems SIG has suffered recently have been due to those subcontracted parts.

While the QA process may have been different on paper for the NSW guns, I don't believe they were tested in a way that would have kept commercial-grade guns from going out the same door. The inherent design of the P220-series guns, and the P226/8/9 in 9mm in particular, is incredibly robust and reliable.

[David S.]

For your consideration.
SIGForum: SIG's Spring and Parts Replacement Schedule. (http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/150601935/m/6801056451)

SIG P-Series Armorer's DVD. (http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig-sauer-armorers-course-dvd_p-series.html)

Ops Spec Training: SIG Armorer's Video. (http://opspectraining.com/products/sig-sauer-armorers-video/) (Bruce Gray)

[David S.]

For what it is worth, I purchased one of these from Widener's a couple years ago. Installed a full parts kit and it has been good to go. I have no gunsmithing skillz, so I found the roll pin replacement a bit a of a PITA, but otherwise no big deal.

They take a bit of maintenance, especially if you plan to use it defensively, but are a good deal.