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Thrill
04-02-2011, 05:02 AM
Hello!

Here's a n00b question about the striker pins on my and my wife's Glock 17's:

Is it OK that the edge of this channel seems to be "mushroomed" over here?
Both guns seem to function adequately, and I can't push the pin down to make the striker protrude when I have the slides off. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!

Striker Pin from Glock 17 G3, S# DRM###, 2000 era:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5222/5581855800_386f9791f1_z.jpg

Striker Pin from Glock 17 G2, S# BMR###, 1995 era: (OOPS! Needs cleaned!)
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5110/5581268395_cd8cf49a3b_z.jpg

Both purchased used / local armor, reportedly trade-ins from some type of LE academy.

THE BOOGEY MAN
04-05-2011, 04:45 AM
I'd would replace the firing pin and the firing pin saftey and you should be good to go.

ToddG
04-05-2011, 07:47 AM
Both guns seem to function adequately, and I can't push the pin down to make the striker protrude when I have the slides off.

Can you explain what that means? Which pin are you talking about and where are you pushing on it with the slide removed?

joshs
04-05-2011, 08:24 AM
Can you explain what that means? Which pin are you talking about and where are you pushing on it with the slide removed?

I think he means that the striker block still prevents the striker from protruding through the breach face even though there is significant wear on the striker.

If the striker block still works, then you are probably okay, but I would replace the striker and striker block just to be on the safe side.

ToddG
04-05-2011, 08:40 AM
Understood. But he could also mean the firing pin block won't move, etc., which is why I asked for clarification before making a suggestion. If the gun passes the typical firing pin safety test it's probably fine, though replacing worn parts with new ones is rarely a bad idea.

Thrill
04-05-2011, 04:11 PM
I think he means that the striker block still prevents the striker from protruding through the breach face even though there is significant wear on the striker.

If the striker block still works, then you are probably okay, but I would replace the striker and striker block just to be on the safe side.

Yeah,... what he said! (Thanks Josh!) I have since learned a bit more about this from GLock (Their tech support is awesome!).

When I hold my finger over the striker pin hole, and apply 10 to 15 pounds pressure downward on the back of the striker pin tab, I could "feel" the tip of the pin on my finger, even though I couldn't see it protruding from the hole. Glock said it was too close and should be replaced, along with the safey.

But, Glock also told me that if I pay to ship both of my G17's back to them in GA, they will overhaul them for free and replace the striker pins and safeties AND any other worn parts at no charge.

Since I got these used from an LE academy, that sounds like a GREAT thing!

I'll send them off this summer while I'm on vacation,... So I guess my Glock's are going to the Glock-SPA for a rejuvenating vacation of their own!

Thanks!

ToddG
04-05-2011, 04:12 PM
Good call on letting Glock overhaul the guns. Glad it all worked out.

JHC
04-05-2011, 04:47 PM
The free "Inspect and Upgrade" service there is pretty neat. I walked in once with two beat up Gen 2 G19s of unknown history I'd been shooting quite a bit and left 40 mins later with two rebuilt guns with most internals replaced. Fee = $0.00.

THE BOOGEY MAN
04-05-2011, 05:56 PM
Good deal Thrill, You can't go wrong with a Glock. Glad we could help !!! :cool:

Thrill
04-06-2011, 06:25 AM
Thanks to all!

Wayne Dobbs
04-06-2011, 11:09 AM
Another second to have Glock rebuild this gun. I believe that somebody has been letting the firing pin assembly strike the FP safety during an improperly conducted armorer's check of the FP safety.

Thrill
04-07-2011, 08:12 AM
Another second to have Glock rebuild this gun. I believe that somebody has been letting the firing pin assembly strike the FP safety during an improperly conducted armorer's check of the FP safety.

Not sure what that means,... sorry,... just learning!

Wayne Dobbs
04-07-2011, 10:17 PM
Thrill,

To check the FP safety during an armorer's check or function test, you first remove the slide assembly and carefully pull back on the firing pin's lug (the part that engages the cruciform plate on the back of the trigger bar) and make sure there is plenty of spring tension to compress with that effort. You then carefully relieve that spring tension, depress the FP safety plunger and push the FP forward and it should protrude out the breechface. You then retract the FP and with firm finger pressure you push forward on the FP lug and make sure that the FP safety will NOT allow the firing pin to protrude out the front of the breechface.

What you're NOT supposed to do, and that lots of uninformed folks do is to pull back on the firing pin, tensioning the spring and then let that SNAP forward, striking the FP safety and kicking up burrs on both the front end of the firing pin and on the body of the FP safety (which is what yours looks like).

You need both the firing pin and the firing pin safety replaced. If Glock will do it for free, that's great, because the firing pin itself is the most expensive part on the gun after the slide, barrel and frame.

Thrill
04-08-2011, 12:46 AM
Thanks, Wayne!

Could "dry firing" cause the same type of damage to the striker pin? I've only had the guns for a few months, and the shop told me they were "used" - from an LE Academy of some type. The firing pins looked like that when I got them, but they both still function correctly, as far as I can tell. The Gen 2 was manufactured in Sept 1995, and the Gen 3 from April 2000; I confirmed this with Glock. So, I have no way of knowing how much they were actually used (but I suspect a lot!), or what maintenance was done on them by the LE Academy armor. I am still sending them to Glock for the overhaul because its a great service they offer, and will redouble my confidence in my new-found-favorite pistol. But I would still like to know as much as I can about my equipment. Thanks again for you info!


Thrill,

To check the FP safety during an armorer's check or function test, you first remove the slide assembly and carefully pull back on the firing pin's lug (the part that engages the cruciform plate on the back of the trigger bar) and make sure there is plenty of spring tension to compress with that effort. You then carefully relieve that spring tension, depress the FP safety plunger and push the FP forward and it should protrude out the breechface. You then retract the FP and with firm finger pressure you push forward on the FP lug and make sure that the FP safety will NOT allow the firing pin to protrude out the front of the breechface.

What you're NOT supposed to do, and that lots of uninformed folks do is to pull back on the firing pin, tensioning the spring and then let that SNAP forward, striking the FP safety and kicking up burrs on both the front end of the firing pin and on the body of the FP safety (which is what yours looks like).

You need both the firing pin and the firing pin safety replaced. If Glock will do it for free, that's great, because the firing pin itself is the most expensive part on the gun after the slide, barrel and frame.