Should I sand these things down, or...

[Evil_Ed]

...or just live with it and toughen up?

A few months ago I bought these Alatmonts for my Smith 19 Carry Comp:

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...then I took it to the range, and it resulted in a pretty nasty blood blister. I think I might have put a cylinder of 357s through it at the end, but I don't think I put more than 3 or so cylinders of 38 through it, no more than 4 of everything all told because it just beat up my hand. I never did take pictures of how it interfaced with the frame though...

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Is this a "your hands are too soft; toughen them up" thing, or should I break out the sandpaper and whittle these down and reoil/finish them? I'm feeling like the latter would really improve things; the grips are so pretty and feel so good otherwise...

[camel]

In my opinion I would fit them so that it’s more comfortable to shoot. Your not going to toughen up your hands no matter what with high spots like that shooting 357. With what I see in the pictures.

[Malamute]

Grips of course are highly subjective, what one loves the next may hate. At first glance Id say I would hate those grips because of the square edges and shape in general. My take on grips is that factory targets on Smiths are the very best ive felt (the 1950s and 60s grips seeming to have the best out if the box shape and feel but many can be dramatically improved on with some fearless work) and most often the worst, depending on the shape and how well fitted to the individual gun. Having the smoothest transition from the frame to the grips, particularly in the upper area where most of the recoils is felt makes a huge difference in feel and shootability to me.

If i were designing grips to be as painful to shoot as possible Im not sure i could do any better than the grips in the first post. Removing all the square edges and blending to match the frame as close as possible should help them quite a lot.

[onehalfmvsquared]

Absolutely, yes, sand down the corners. I have several Altamont grips and I have "blended" all of them to fit the frame with no sharp corners or edges in those areas you show. I put a little tung oil on the bare wood to match the original finish color and preserve it.

[Malamute]

This is what has worked pretty well for me, it was first impressed upon me when shooting the 4" Smith 29 with Keith loads in my tender youth, and has held up fairly well over time with the 44s and 357s. Trying to match the edge of the wood to the edge of the metal both in height and angle so theres no change to enhance the recoil effect. It also makes them feel rather nice for the most part. Several people have commented that the ones on my 29 were the most comfortable Smith grips they had ever felt. I was basically copying a nice set on a 1950s N frame gun as to outline and shape, so not my brilliant idea, just copying something i liked. You can try working them down and see how it goes, perhaps the pics can give you some ideas.

You may find that the narrowness of the grips you have at the top may never feel good under recoil even when the squared edges are removed, but you wont know til you try. Thats one main reason Ive used the factory grips for my Smiths, all the aftermarket grips seem much narrower and feel like they magnify the recoil feeling at the hump at the top of the grip frame. Ive also just shot scads of rounds in the K-22, so its probably some bias in that sense as well.

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[Stephanie B]

Sand, sand, away!

I did trash a cheaper pair of grips from being too aggressive with a file, so I'd recommend going slowly.

[camel]

This is what has worked pretty well for me, it was first impressed upon me when shooting the 4" Smith 29 with Keith loads in my tender youth, and has held up fairly well over time with the 44s and 357s. Trying to match the edge of the wood to the edge of the metal both in height and angle so theres no change to enhance the recoil effect. It also makes them feel rather nice for the most part. Several people have commented that the ones on my 29 were the most comfortable Smith grips they had ever felt. I was basically copying a nice set on a 1950s N frame gun as to outline and shape, so not my brilliant idea, just copying something i liked. You can try working them down and see how it goes, perhaps the pics can give you some ideas.

You may find that the narrowness of the grips you have at the top may never feel good under recoil even when the squared edges are removed, but you wont know til you try. Thats one main reason Ive used the factory grips for my Smiths, all the aftermarket grips seem much narrower and feel like they magnify the recoil feeling at the hump at the top of the grip frame. Ive also just shot scads of rounds in the K-22, so its probably some bias in that sense as well.

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That is beautiful.

[Malamute]

That is beautiful.

Thanks, its also one the the easiest guns ive ever shot for hitting at medium-longer distances, like 200-300 yards. The grips are pretty close to just right now.

[okie john]

Once upon a time, I had David Clements built me a five-shot Ruger Bisley in 45 Colt.

After the first range trip, I immediately knocked ANY edge off of the grips to create a seamless transition from wood to metal.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-tools/scrapers/


Okie John

[Evil_Ed]

Once upon a time, I had David Clements built me a five-shot Ruger Bisley in 45 Colt.

After the first range trip, I immediately knocked ANY edge off of the grips to create a seamless transition from wood to metal.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-tools/scrapers/


Okie John

I don't even know how to use one of those...I was just going to use a file to do some rough shaping, then sandpaper at 200, 400, 600, then higher...

[camel]

In my opinion I would fit them so that it’s more comfortable to shoot. Your not going to toughen up your hands no matter what with high spots like that shooting 357. With what I see in the pictures.

I can’t edit the post. But looking at it further those stocks just plain probably suck for fitment. Something like malamute posted should be the eventual outcome. Then go from that.

[okie john]

I don't even know how to use one of those...I was just going to use a file to do some rough shaping, then sandpaper at 200, 400, 600, then higher...

That would work. To use the scraper, hold it in your hand like a pencil, then use the edge to scrape the wood away from the metal. They remove very little material so you'll go very slowly, which is not a bad thing.

The one you probably need is at the bottom of the page. It has a green handle and flat edges.


Okie John

[Malamute]

I don't even know how to use one of those...I was just going to use a file to do some rough shaping, then sandpaper at 200, 400, 600, then higher...

A small fine cut chain saw file is helpful for many parts of grip shaping. Putting some blue masking tape on the metal while working it down helps some also.

[Crazy Dane]

I have sanded Altamont's with emery boards to very good affect. I don't know why they have to leave the corners so sharp.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?54889-Grips-for-S-amp-W-L-frame-M-69/page4

[Duelist]

...or just live with it and toughen up?

A few months ago I bought these Alatmonts for my Smith 19 Carry Comp:

105261

...then I took it to the range, and it resulted in a pretty nasty blood blister. I think I might have put a cylinder of 357s through it at the end, but I don't think I put more than 3 or so cylinders of 38 through it, no more than 4 of everything all told because it just beat up my hand. I never did take pictures of how it interfaced with the frame though...

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Is this a "your hands are too soft; toughen them up" thing, or should I break out the sandpaper and whittle these down and reoil/finish them? I'm feeling like the latter would really improve things; the grips are so pretty and feel so good otherwise...

You should fix that shit, or send them back.

[358156hp]

I'd send them back and most likely remove Altamont from my approved vendor list.

[Borderland]

Just send them back.

I couldn't shoot with grips like that. Total abomination. I wouldn't have a problem with taking some wood off of those because I have the tools to do that, but why should one have to?

It's too bad that Ahrens went out of business. They knew how to make grips. Apparently Altimont doesn't. These are on my model 19. Shoots like a wet dream.

https://i.ibb.co/0t2VshD/P1000955.jpg (https://ibb.co/dgMJmGW)

Should have purchased a set for my SB but I thought they were here to stay. What a great company that no longer exists.

[camel]

Just send them back.

I couldn't shoot with grips like that. Total abomination. I wouldn't have a problem with taking some wood off of those because I have the tools to do that, but why should one have to?

It's too bad that Ahrens went out of business. They knew how to make grips. Apparently Altimont doesn't. These are on my model 19. Shoots like a wet dream.

https://i.ibb.co/0t2VshD/P1000955.jpg (https://ibb.co/dgMJmGW)

Should have purchased a set for my SB but I thought they were here to stay. What a great company that no longer exists.

It’s kinda the color of wet dreams. When it comes to bespoke stocks. You can mess it up in your dream’s when you buy them. Kinda like an inexperienced teenager. I’m talking stocks on da revolver here.

[Malamute]

Finding good grips can be tough. if a little shorter grip than the Altamonts would work, the Hogue Bantam may be workable. I have a set of the rubber ones, I took some out behind the trigger guard so it sets a little lower, and removed the lump that formed the finger groove, but otherwise like the size and shape. They make them in various woods also. Ive been wanting to try a set of the Pau Ferro ones, they look like the darkest wood they have. The price isnt bad. Midway has them among others Im sure.

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[onehalfmvsquared]

I sanded these altamonts down in the same area that's giving you trouble. If you look carefully you'll see it

https://i.imgur.com/onDmxaJ.jpg?2

[Borderland]

It’s kinda the color of wet dreams. When it comes to bespoke stocks. You can mess it up in your dream’s when you buy them. Kinda like an inexperienced teenager. I’m talking stocks on da revolver here.

Maybe I should rephrase that. ;)

[jtcarm]

This is what has worked pretty well for me, it was first impressed upon me when shooting the 4" Smith 29 with Keith loads in my tender youth, and has held up fairly well over time with the 44s and 357s. Trying to match the edge of the wood to the edge of the metal both in height and angle so theres no change to enhance the recoil effect. It also makes them feel rather nice for the most part. Several people have commented that the ones on my 29 were the most comfortable Smith grips they had ever felt. I was basically copying a nice set on a 1950s N frame gun as to outline and shape, so not my brilliant idea, just copying something i liked. You can try working them down and see how it goes, perhaps the pics can give you some ideas.

You may find that the narrowness of the grips you have at the top may never feel good under recoil even when the squared edges are removed, but you wont know til you try. Thats one main reason Ive used the factory grips for my Smiths, all the aftermarket grips seem much narrower and feel like they magnify the recoil feeling at the hump at the top of the grip frame. Ive also just shot scads of rounds in the K-22, so its probably some bias in that sense as well.

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^^^^^^^^^^^^this^^^^^^^^^

Poor wood-to-metal fit plus too thin at the top, which pretty much applies to all stocks these days.

Those grips look really rough with the squared edges. Sanding them down flush to the metal and putting a radius on the edges will mitigate, if not eliminate the bite.

IMO, this started when speed loaders became prevalent. Stocks started getting thinner on the cylinder side for SL clearance. Add to that the decline of hand-fitting, and stocks started biting.

This is why all of my K-frame round-butt revolvers wear these Uncle Mikes grips. I can shoot magnums till my heart’s content. They’re discontinued, but available on EBay. They were designed by Craig Spegel and are very ergonomic l.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230530/f587970d1ed91b9fa68819d17a2b1373.jpg

“Toughening up” doesn’t do much good. I have a permanent callous built on the web of my hand, right at the base of the thumb. One cylinder-full of .357s with the wrong grips will rip it right off.

As Malamute said, a set of factory football-targets (or earlier targets) work very well, but aren’t practical for concealment. Plus they’re too big for fast DA work with my stubby fingers. For their intended purpose, target shooting, they’re near perfect, IMO.

[jtcarm]

Sand, sand, away!

I did trash a cheaper pair of grips from being too aggressive with a file, so I'd recommend going slowly.

That’s why I keep that drawer-full of reject grips I posted yesterday.

I never know when I might want to experiment.

[jtcarm]

Once upon a time, I had David Clements built me a five-shot Ruger Bisley in 45 Colt.

After the first range trip, I immediately knocked ANY edge off of the grips to create a seamless transition from wood to metal.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-tools/scrapers/


Okie John

That looks like it’s designed for inletting more than external shaping.

A plain card scraper or one with a convex edge may work better:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/scrapers/32644-burnisher-scraper-set?item=05K2031

[Evil_Ed]

Just send them back.

I couldn't shoot with grips like that. Total abomination. I wouldn't have a problem with taking some wood off of those because I have the tools to do that, but why should one have to?

It's too bad that Ahrens went out of business. They knew how to make grips. Apparently Altimont doesn't. These are on my model 19. Shoots like a wet dream.

https://i.ibb.co/0t2VshD/P1000955.jpg (https://ibb.co/dgMJmGW)

Should have purchased a set for my SB but I thought they were here to stay. What a great company that no longer exists.


I'd send them back and most likely remove Altamont from my approved vendor list.

I actually contacted Altamont about this when I first got it to the range, I asked them if they did any shaping or anything...their response was "no, it fit on the gun as it shipped but if you're not happy with it, you can send them back - we'll do a refund, no problem." (or words to that effect - they weren't snippy or giving attitude about it - it was more "that sucks! we're sorry, we can refund if you wish" in tone)

Right now I'm kind of looking at them in the frame of "The grips are %90 finished and it's up to the user to do the end finishing to fit their firearm"...if you look at them as "kit grips", I guess, they make a lot more sense. Expensive grips to be sure, but also pretty...

[okie john]

That looks like it’s designed for inletting more than external shaping.

A plain card scraper or one with a convex edge may work better:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/scrapers/32644-burnisher-scraper-set?item=05K2031

I think you're right.


Okie John

[Evil_Ed]

The left side could probably stand a little more shaping, but not too horrible for a first blush. The left side also needs to be cleaned up a bit more; I didn't get to all of the scratches with 400-600-2000 like I did the back edge and right side...

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[onehalfmvsquared]

you did a better job than I did!

[Evil_Ed]

Oh, believe me - if you saw it in person, you'd be wondering why an ecliptic decided to set Youtube to a "Tokyo At Night" playlist before picking up some sandpaper.

[Lex Luthier]

The left side could probably stand a little more shaping, but not too horrible for a first blush. The left side also needs to be cleaned up a bit more; I didn't get to all of the scratches with 400-600-2000 like I did the back edge and right side...

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That should feel much better now!

Pro tip; make a couple of small (say 1/2” x 1 1/2”) hardwood blocks you can use to double stick your paper on for the edges. You can do two sides of each block and then a second block for the finest grit. The beauty of these is that if one is too wide, you can narrow them easily for a particular task or area.
Working along with the grain, these sandpaper files will keep you from rounding corners and edges. On wood like that, I’d use 220 or 240 for final shaping, 280 next, then 320 to start removing scratches. Then 400 to 600 for scratch removal and polishing. 800 is optional but I wouldn’t go beyond that if you’re putting a finish on them.

[Evil_Ed]

Success! I was able to spend about 75+- rounds* of 130gr Rem-UMC 38 Special, 12 rounds of Winchester 125gr 38+P Super-X, and 10* rounds of Magtech soft points I think...not sure of weight; 158s maybe? I don't feel like dragging out the box...anyway - The gun was a LOT more manageable and a LOT more comfortable to shoot - even more comfortable to shoot with the 357s than a set of Pachmayrs! My knuckle would smack into the trigger guard when shooting the same magnums with the Pachs...the Pachs were comfortable otherwise but that experience vetoed the grips from further use. I was very skittish coming into these with magnums but after the first round went off and my knuckle didn't feel like someone smacked it with a hammer...I was happy.

No such problems with my hand getting battered in recoil; my skin didn't split anywhere, etc. In fact it was the first time I put magnums through this thing and didn't bleed afterwards, and even ventured to shoot more than the first 6 rounds.

The asterisks...I had one failure-to-fire with the 130gr Rem-UMCs; the primer showed a deep dimple/strike so I don't know. I figured ok, sure, a dud...it happens. Then I had two more failure to ignites with the magnums...Bang click Bang Bang click Bang...click click click click click click. All primers showed the same deep dimple, so...I dunno. I can only guess that the tuning as it came from the Performance Center put it right at the ragged edge of reliability? So I'll adjust the main spring, I guess...

The 38+Ps were actually pretty comfortable to shoot with this thing. Now I just need to figure out why it seems to be zeroed at 50 yards, and bring a small screwdriver with me to the range next time so I can adjust zero correctly. I don't want to need to aim at the top of a 3x5 card at 50 feet just to split the edge of the bottom of the card..

[FrankB]

The asterisks...I had one failure-to-fire with the 130gr Rem-UMCs; the primer showed a deep dimple/strike so I don't know. I figured ok, sure, a dud...it happens. Then I had two more failure to ignites with the magnums...Bang click Bang Bang click Bang...click click click click click click. All primers showed the same deep dimple, so...I dunno. I can only guess that the tuning as it came from the Performance Center put it right at the ragged edge of reliability? So I'll adjust the main spring, I guess...
..

Did you check the strain screw to see if it was fully seated. I remember Beretta9mmUSA was getting a lot of light strikes with his Performance Center L Comp. Turning a 10-11 pound trigger pull into an 8 pound means springs have to be lightened, so…

[Evil_Ed]

Did you check the strain screw to see if it was fully seated. I remember Beretta9mmUSA was getting a lot of light strikes with his Performance Center L Comp. Turning a 10-11 pound trigger pull into an 8 pound means springs have to be lightened, so…

It was fully seated - or at least, it didn't move/adjust itself out. I screwed it in another rotation and a half and dribbled some blue loctite on the back end of the screw...it doesn't seem to have appreciably made the trigger pull heavier, but even if it did, it's so smooth that it's really not impacting anything. Frankly the factory pull on my dad's Model 28 is heavy but smooth as well, so...for the DA pull, light is fine but smooth for me is better.

Anyway, hopefully in a week or two I'll be able to head out again and give it another shot..