My Glock rear sight walks...

[LowAndLeft]

I swapped my Glock 26's factory sights for Ameriglo GL-429 XL suppressor height sights to lower 1/3 co-witness with my optic (i.e. for back-up). After shooting 200-300 rounds, the rear sight walks to the left. I had a gunsmith push it back. he mentioned dimpling it in place but didn't as he said he felt enough resistance that it wouldn't move--well, it still did. He also asked if I carried appendix as he's seen that move rear sights. I don't know how that could possibly affect it--I never have bumped against anything. Its def recoil that moves it--I wasn't even CCW when it first occurred.

So, what are my options to fix this? The gunsmith said loctite won't help as it's no good on sliding sliding surfaces (true?). Push the sight back, then dimple it somewhere to pin it? Find a taller Glock polymer sight that might grab the dovetail better? Other ideas? Thanks!

[Duelist]

I swapped my Glock 26's factory sights for Ameriglo GL-429 XL suppressor height sights to lower 1/3 co-witness with my optic (i.e. for back-up). After shooting 200-300 rounds, the rear sight walks to the left. I had a gunsmith push it back. he mentioned dimpling it in place but didn't as he said he felt enough resistance that it wouldn't move--well, it still did. He also asked if I carried appendix as he's seen that move rear sights. I don't know how that could possibly affect it--I never have bumped against anything. Its def recoil that moves it--I wasn't even CCW when it first occurred.

So, what are my options to fix this? The gunsmith said loctite won't help as it's no good on sliding sliding surfaces (true?). Push the sight back, then dimple it somewhere to pin it? Find a taller Glock polymer sight that might grab the dovetail better? Other ideas? Thanks!

Install it properly with loctite.

Get a gunsmith who knows what he’s doing.

[L-2]

Do your own work; forget that gunsmith the OP used.

Buy one's own rear sight tool, however, I wouldn't know which rear sight tool to buy for a taller-than-stock rear sight. Perhaps someone else can advise as to which of the several tools on the market.

Remove the rear sight completely, then carefully hit the bottom in the middle with a chisel at 90º to dimple that rear sight. As the sight will be upside down, have some type of towel, perhaps on a piece of wood to limit any damage or marking to the top of the sight. Also be careful to not shock and break any night sight vials which might be within the sight.

Or contact Ameriglo and buy a new rear sight. From the post, I don't know if somebody "overfitted" the existing rear sight and made the sight too narrow for Glock's dovetail.

All it takes is more time and money.

[okie john]

I had the same problem after a gunsmith cut the dovetail on my old 1911 a little too deep. The method I chose to address that was probably overkill, but it never went anywhere after that.

103603

I'd either look at a new rear sight or one with a set screw.


Okie John

[WobblyPossum]

Is this a Gen5 gun? I believe ASH556 reported issues with Ameriglo sights walking on his guns.

[Boxy]

I have not had this problem but before I bought a new rear sight I might attempt to stake or peen both sides of the sight edges at the bottom to see it it could get some bite. In addition, locktite as well.

[Squib308]

1. If it’s really an issue then just get a new rear sight and ensure it is installed correctly.

2. If gunsmith claims that AIWB causes a sight to move in the dovetail, find new gunsmith.

[HCountyGuy]

Is this a Gen5 gun? I believe ASH556 reported issues with Ameriglo sights walking on his guns.

Was my first thought as well. Had my AmeriGlo rear walk on my G45, replaced them with 10-8 sights and haven’t had an issue.

[M2CattleCo]

You really can’t stake the Ameriglo rear sights because they’re hollowed out.

Remove it, degrease everything real good, reinstall with red Locktite and it’ll stay. Won’t be hard to remove if you ever want to.

[M2CattleCo]

I had the same problem after a gunsmith cut the dovetail on my old 1911 a little too deep. The method I chose to address that was probably overkill, but it never went anywhere after that.

103603

I'd either look at a new rear sight or one with a set screw.


Okie John


That’s not overkill. That’s something entirely different.

[ASH556]

1. Your gunsmith is full of shit on multiple counts.
2. I don’t use sight pushers. I’ve seen them cause more harm than good. I use the aluminum punches Dawson includes with their sights. Brass works too.
3. My advice would be to go 10-8 sights and don’t look back.
4. I won’t use any rear sight without a setscrew.
5. If you want to use that sight, use green loc-tite.

[LukeNCMX]

1. Your gunsmith is full of shit on multiple counts.
2. I don’t use sight pushers. I’ve seen them cause more harm than good. I use the aluminum punches Dawson includes with their sights. Brass works too.
3. My advice would be to go 10-8 sights and don’t look back.
4. I won’t use any rear sight without a setscrew.
5. If you want to use that sight, use green loc-tite.

Agree with all of this except the 10-8s. I’m not a fan of the “U” notch. I’d just get Dawson sights and oil them once in a while with something with a decent rust inhibitor like slip2000 ewl. Overwatch precision’s sights are also very good for OWB use.

The GL429 rear doesn’t fit the gen 5 dovetail very well. The GL429 recommendation is old news for BUIS. Serrated rear with set screw or GTFO.

[CCT125US]

"Gunsmith" means next to nothing. There's several online "schools" that provide a certificate that isn't worth the paper it's printed on. Similar to some of the factory armorer certs, that teach how to punch out some pins and pull a trigger assembly.

[ASH556]

Is this a Gen5 gun? I believe ASH556 reported issues with Ameriglo sights walking on his guns.

Here’s the pic of the above referenced event. Happened in the middle of a Gabe class. Upside is it reinforced confidence in dot over irons. My setups are Type 2 RM06’s on FCD plates on Gen5 MOS guns. I’ve not had the first issue.

103610

On the subject of the 10-8 U-notch, I used to be a stickler about square rear notches to avoid the visual temptation to bury the front sight dot in the U-notch on something like Trij HD’s. With the 10-8 MOS sights, I find it not to be an issue because:
1. The deck height on my RMR does not allow me to see the bottom of my rear sight notch with any silhouette.
2. The front is solid black, so it’s purely a tips of blades thing.

After the Ameriglo rear failure, I put Heinies (hit high), Overwatch Precision (unnecessarily tall and sharp), and then landed with the 10-8’s. I’ve had several sets of Dawson sights on other setups and enjoyed them as well. Just sharing what I’ve found to work and not work, for Gen 5 Glocks primarily carried AIWB.

[JohnO]

On the subject of the 10-8 U-notch, I used to be a stickler about square rear notches to avoid the visual temptation to bury the front sight dot in the U-notch on something like Trij HD’s. With the 10-8 MOS sights, I find it not to be an issue because:
1. The deck height on my RMR does not allow me to see the bottom of my rear sight notch with any silhouette.
2. The front is solid black, so it’s purely a tips of blades thing.


3. Equal height, equal light.

I've never had an issue with 10-8 U-Notch rear sights and I prefer/use the .156 notch on Glocks & 1911s.

[BillSWPA]

The rear sight is made from softer material than the slide and is intended to deform slightly for an interference fit. A properly made sight that was not previously installed on another gun should not move.

I use an MGW sight pusher, and get the moving block as close as possible to the top of the slide without touching it. Getting as close to the slide as possible without touching minimizes the likelihood of problems. A good sight pusher can locate the sight car more precisely than a hammer and punch.

[Utm]

Here’s the pic of the above referenced event. Happened in the middle of a Gabe class. Upside is it reinforced confidence in dot over irons. My setups are Type 2 RM06’s on FCD plates on Gen5 MOS guns. I’ve not had the first issue.

103610

On the subject of the 10-8 U-notch, I used to be a stickler about square rear notches to avoid the visual temptation to bury the front sight dot in the U-notch on something like Trij HD’s. With the 10-8 MOS sights, I find it not to be an issue because:
1. The deck height on my RMR does not allow me to see the bottom of my rear sight notch with any silhouette.
2. The front is solid black, so it’s purely a tips of blades thing.

After the Ameriglo rear failure, I put Heinies (hit high), Overwatch Precision (unnecessarily tall and sharp), and then landed with the 10-8’s. I’ve had several sets of Dawson sights on other setups and enjoyed them as well. Just sharing what I’ve found to work and not work, for Gen 5 Glocks primarily carried AIWB.

It has happened to many of our duty guns (g45 mos) with the trijicon suppressor height sights

[LukeNCMX]

The rear sight is made from softer material than the slide and is intended to deform slightly for an interference fit. A properly made sight that was not previously installed on another gun should not move.

Dawson’s need to be fit. Ameriglo GL429 rears need to be fit (in gen 5s at least). Pretty sure 10-8s owner openly has put on social media that his sights need to be fit.

Don’t get me wrong I really wish this was true cause filing and fitting sights properly is tedious BS work. There are lots of trashed slides in the world with deformed dovetails from dudes cranking them on with sight drifters not taking the time to fit them properly.


A good sight pusher can locate the sight far more precisely than a hammer and punch.

True but a punch can get you close enough for any discipline that doesn’t justify an adjustable rear.

[LowAndLeft]

Is this a Gen5 gun? I believe ASH556 reported issues with Ameriglo sights walking on his guns. It's a Gen 3.

[Tannhauser]

Dawson’s need to be fit. Ameriglo GL429 rears need to be fit (in gen 5s at least). Pretty sure 10-8s owner openly has put on social media that his sights need to be fit.

Don’t get me wrong I really wish this was true cause filing and fitting sights properly is tedious BS work. There are lots of trashed slides in the world with deformed dovetails from dudes cranking them on with sight drifters not taking the time to fit them properly.



True but a punch can get you close enough for any discipline that doesn’t justify an adjustable rear.


Based on personal experience, 10-8 sights absolutely need to be fit, as do Dawsons.

Properly fit sights don’t drift under use. It takes a little time to fit sights, but it’s not hard to do.

My universal sight pusher is a set of brass/aluminum/steel punches, a machinist vice and a hammer. I can move sights fairly precisely with this low tech setup, certainly good enough for 99.99% of guns & shooters.

I I did a shitty “gunsmith” too much money to duck up an install once in my life. Then I learned how to install sights. Dawson Precusion has a really good video on how to git their sights, which is pretty much how to fit every sight.

[ST911]

Ameriglo rears have a lot more fit variability in Glock dovetails than some other sights. Not a knock, have a bunch, but something I expect and plan for.

If a sight walks or fits soft I peen/dimple an edge, works fine. Can be knocked off with a file later if needed.

Taller rears getting knocked off center will be a thing as exposed guns get knocked into stuff out in the world.

[BillSWPA]

The information about the steel hardness came from the instructions for the first set of Trijicon sights I purchased.

I am surprised that people have had to fit Dawson sights. All of the Dawsons I have installed went in with no problem with a sight pusher.

I can get my sights centered to within a few thousandths of an inch using the pusher.

[HTM]

I've always had to fit Dawson sights. From Glocks, HK's, and Kimbers. I personally prefer that.

I suggest the OP contact Ameriglo. I'm sure they will help you out.

[L-2]

In my prior thread post, I forgot to mention another sight install technique for a loose dovetail sight.
This other technique involves finding something to use as a shim between the sight and the slide's dovetail.
The material could be something such as a piece cut from an aluminum can; tin-foil; brass shim stock.
Here's an Amazon link (shortened) for shim stock starting at .002" thickness:
https://rb.gy/qrtim

[Olim9]

I've had numerous GL-429's walk out on OEM and milled dovetails. I like Ameriglo as a company but their dovetails are way too loose and they need to fix that. I recommend Dawsons.

[LowAndLeft]

I've had numerous GL-429's walk out on OEM and milled dovetails. I like Ameriglo as a company but their dovetails are way too loose and they need to fix that. I recommend Dawsons. So I'm not going crazy? Thank you. It's walked the same amount to the same side 2x. This is a factory dovetail, btw.

[Olim9]

So I'm not going crazy? Thank you. It's walked the same amount to the same side 2x. This is a factory dovetail, btw.

Not at all. Almost every time I see one of those "irons don't fail" posts/videos on social media, a majority of them are rears on the suppressor height Ameriglos. If a sight goes in easily, generally speaking it's going to loosen just as well.

[Tannhauser]

Not at all. Almost every time I see one of those "irons don't fail" posts/videos on social media, a majority of them are rears on the suppressor height Ameriglos. If a sight goes in easily, generally speaking it's going to loosen just as well.

Exactly. If it’s easy to press into place, a sight is too loose.

[LowAndLeft]

Exactly. If it’s easy to press into place, a sight is too loose. After reading the great replies here, I'm going to go after it with a brass or other soft punch per Dawson's video to see how loose it truly is. Not too worried about dinging it--might even dimple it before reinstalling it--prob just use red loctite first if I find enough snugness.

[BillSWPA]

After reading the great replies here, I'm going to go after it with a brass or other soft punch per Dawson's video to see how loose it truly is. Not too worried about dinging it--might even dimple it before reinstalling it--prob just use red loctite first if I find enough snugness.

Brass will certainly be softer than the sight, so I doubt you will leave a mark or otherwise damage the sight.

One nice thing about a punch is that you can apply the punch to the dovetail itself rather than the raised portion of the sight, further reducing the likelihood of damage. I know of only one sight pusher which is capable of pushing directly on the dovetail, and unfortunately it does not appear to be currently available.

[LowAndLeft]

Brass will certainly be softer than the sight, so I doubt you will leave a mark or otherwise damage the sight.

One nice thing about a punch is that you can apply the punch to the dovetail itself rather than the raised portion of the sight, further reducing the likelihood of damage. I know of only one sight pusher which is capable of pushing directly on the dovetail, and unfortunately it does not appear to be currently available. I didn't know that about pushers--what part they contacted. How about a steel punch covered with tape?

[BillSWPA]

I didn't know that about pushers--what part they contacted. How about a steel punch covered with tape?

Stick with brass. I apologize if my post was unclear. A brass punch with a hammer will move the sight. It will not damage or leave a mark on the sight. If anything deforms, it will be the punch - the least expensive thing in the process.

A typical pusher uses a block attached to a threaded rod which contacts a raised portion of the sight above the slide. Done improperly, this could potentially break a front sight. That is why I get as low as possible on the sight with the pusher, without contacting the slide (which can damage the slide and make turning the threaded rod much more difficult).

[LowAndLeft]

103685
Poor man's brass punch: 10x24 thread 3-inch brass machine screw. Worked great removing and reinstalling rear sight.

[Tannhauser]

I didn't know that about pushers--what part they contacted. How about a steel punch covered with tape?

I use steel punches only when I need to remove OEM sites that are very tight in the dovetail and I don’t care about salvaging them. Even if you pad a steel punch with tape or some other method, it’s going to deform a Steel site if you really put any force behind it.

I keep a variety of punches in my toolbox for different reasons

[Tannhauser]

These are great punches for installing or adjusting sights that you care about:

https://dawsonprecision.com/sight-installation-tools-for-pistols-various-options-by-dawson-precision/

103699