How do you remove a RDS?

[Harry Flashman]

I have seen videos of mounting RDS. But how do you take one off? I was going to mount a RMR. I have to take it off to change the batteries. What are the tricks to removing the RDS? I have a torque screw driver so I will be using that and the screws are treated with vibra tite (I believe). Is there any special trick to remove the RDS without tearing up the screws? Do you heat it, freeze it, pour something on it?

I did not see this on the search.

If this is a dumb question my apologies, first time post and figured folks here have installed and removed a RDS a time of two.

[GJM]

I have seen videos of mounting RDS. But how do you take one off? I was going to mount a RMR. I have to take it off to change the batteries. What are the tricks to removing the RDS? I have a torque screw driver so I will be using that and the screws are treated with vibra tite (I believe). Is there any special trick to remove the RDS without tearing up the screws? Do you heat it, freeze it, pour something on it?

I did not see this on the search.

If this is a dumb question my apologies, first time post and figured folks here have installed and removed a RDS a time of two.

I put the slide in a padded vice, use Fix it Sticks, and press straight down to fully and squarely seat the bit. Heat if there is red loctite.

[HCM]

I have seen videos of mounting RDS. But how do you take one off? I was going to mount a RMR. I have to take it off to change the batteries. What are the tricks to removing the RDS? I have a torque screw driver so I will be using that and the screws are treated with vibra tite (I believe). Is there any special trick to remove the RDS without tearing up the screws? Do you heat it, freeze it, pour something on it?

I did not see this on the search.

If this is a dumb question my apologies, first time post and figured folks here have installed and removed a RDS a time of two.

Good question-

Do not use your torque driver to loosen anything- it can damage it. Get a regular screw driver handle which can use the sane bits. If you can’t find one at Home Depot etc Brownells sells them.

The longer 2” bits make things easier, especially with the open emitter Holosun optics.

[JCN]

Good quality Allen keys. I usually try and “snap” the loctite free rather than slow pressure.

If there’s any wobble or wiggle I will replace screw or Allen for the reinstall.

[ECK]

Hopefully whoever installed your RMR did not over torque the screws or use red lock tite.

So yeah, use the appropriate bit (hopefully it is a torx head) make sure the bit is seated as far down as possible, then lefty-loosy to remove. Use gentle force. The last thing you want to do is strip the screw head. If no go, try some heat. What I use is a soldering iron with a fine tip, hold the tip to the screw head only to avoid melting any plastic on the RDS housing, apply heat for 10-15 sec then try again to loosen it up.

I try to only use torx head screws (T10 IIRC).

When reinstalling, index mark the screw and sight with a light color sharpie so you can visually see if the screws ever come loose.

[SoCalDep]

I have seen videos of mounting RDS. But how do you take one off? I was going to mount a RMR. I have to take it off to change the batteries. What are the tricks to removing the RDS? I have a torque screw driver so I will be using that and the screws are treated with vibra tite (I believe). Is there any special trick to remove the RDS without tearing up the screws? Do you heat it, freeze it, pour something on it?

I did not see this on the search.

If this is a dumb question my apologies, first time post and figured folks here have installed and removed a RDS a time of two.

VibraTite is “not ideal” as a threadlocker for pistol optics. If the videos you watched talked about using it - you may want to take those videos with a big grain of salt. Loctite 242 works but I prefer 243 or 248 (my favorite). Get some extra screws for your optic/pistol combo from McMaster-Carr and change them out when you re-mount. It’s too inexpensive not to. Make sure to use Duracell batteries in your RMR and for serious use change them out yearly. Anything other than Duracell should be changed at a six-month interval.

When I remove an optic I will use the correct bit and apply slow increasing pressure until the part snaps loose from the threadlocker. If something stronger than blue Loctite was used and the screw won’t budge then use heat as described by ECK .

I’ve only ever seen two screws shear when loosening using regular strength threadlocker. One was a pistol that Thad 1,985 rounds fired through it in about 20 min and the screw was already fatally damaged. The other was a screw from a Sig P365XL that had a TON of blue Loctite used over the entire length of the 10mm M3 metric screw. That one was a “B” to get out.

I’ll re-iterate what HCM already said and agree that you don’t want to use a torque driver to loosen screws.

Once the optic is off, test fit the new screws, install the new battery and confirm the optic remains functional, degrease everything (screws, threaded holes in plate and/or slide, optic pocket and plate surface) with alcohol (I usually use alcohol prep pads) or a firearm degreaser of some sort, and once dry apply the threadlocker. One reason I like Loctite 248 is because it is easy to apply enough where it needs to be without there being too much.

Torque to the proper spec for all interacting components, ensuring that the rubber seal of the RMR did not come out of it’s proper position and that the optic/plate all sit flush. Once finished apply indicator marks. I use an oil-based paint pen but I put the paint on the wrapper for the alcohol pad then use the sharp end of a round toothpick (with which I will have used the blunt end to degrease the slide’s threaded holes) to apply the paint to the screws and optic body.

[Utm]

VibraTite is “not ideal” as a threadlocker for pistol optics. If the videos you watched talked about using it - you may want to take those videos with a big grain of salt. Loctite 242 works but I prefer 243 or 248 (my favorite). Get some extra screws for your optic/pistol combo from McMaster-Carr and change them out when you re-mount. It’s too inexpensive not to. Make sure to use Duracell batteries in your RMR and for serious use change them out yearly. Anything other than Duracell should be changed at a six-month interval.

When I remove an optic I will use the correct bit and apply slow increasing pressure until the part snaps loose from the threadlocker. If something stronger than blue Loctite was used and the screw won’t budge then use heat as described by ECK .

I’ve only ever seen two screws shear when loosening using regular strength threadlocker. One was a pistol that Thad 1,985 rounds fired through it in about 20 min and the screw was already fatally damaged. The other was a screw from a Sig P365XL that had a TON of blue Loctite used over the entire length of the 10mm M3 metric screw. That one was a “B” to get out.

I’ll re-iterate what HCM already said and agree that you don’t want to use a torque driver to loosen screws.

Once the optic is off, test fit the new screws, install the new battery and confirm the optic remains functional, degrease everything (screws, threaded holes in plate and/or slide, optic pocket and plate surface) with alcohol (I usually use alcohol prep pads) or a firearm degreaser of some sort, and once dry apply the threadlocker. One reason I like Loctite 248 is because it is easy to apply enough where it needs to be without there being too much.

Torque to the proper spec for all interacting components, ensuring that the rubber seal of the RMR did not come out of it’s proper position and that the optic/plate all sit flush. Once finished apply indicator marks. I use an oil-based paint pen but I put the paint on the wrapper for the alcohol pad then use the sharp end of a round toothpick (with which I will have used the blunt end to degrease the slide’s threaded holes) to apply the paint to the screws and optic body.

Do you use new screws every time you remount the optic? I typically do but wasn't sure if its necessary or not

[JCN]

use the sharp end of a round toothpick (with which I will have used the blunt end to degrease the slide’s threaded holes) to apply the paint to the screws and optic body.

FWIW instead of marking the optic body (which gets messy after multiple marks from multiple screw witnesses), I’ve gone to just marking the screw at 6 o’clock. If the mark is no longer at straight 6, then it has moved.

That way no mess on the optic itself.

[SoCalDep]

Do you use new screws every time you remount the optic? I typically do but wasn't sure if its necessary or not

Unless it’s a weird non-standard screw that I don’t have spares of I will change the screws every time. I don’t necessarily think it’s required but at the cost of less than (usually) $0.25 - $0.50 a set I like using new ones.

[SoCalDep]

FWIW instead of marking the optic body (which gets messy after multiple marks from multiple screw witnesses), I’ve gone to just marking the screw at 6 o’clock. If the mark is no longer at straight 6, then it has moved.

That way no mess on the optic itself.

That’s a good idea. I will usually just re-mark at the same spot… the toothpick makes it easy to keep it neat. The oil-based paint comes off really easy with a q-tip and some gun scrubber if the markings are looking too bad.

[1Rangemaster]

That’s a good idea. I will usually just re-mark at the same spot… the toothpick makes it easy to keep it neat. The oil-based paint comes off really easy with a q-tip and some gun scrubber if the markings are looking too bad.

SoCalDep and HCM (if applicable):

Very timely as I'm going to inspect some MOS mounted RMR2s. The plates have witness marks. If there is no indication of movement/looseness, any reason to retorque or otherwise address plate, aside from degreasing?
Thanks in advance for any insights.

[JCN]

That’s a good idea. I will usually just re-mark at the same spot… the toothpick makes it easy to keep it neat. The oil-based paint comes off really easy with a q-tip and some gun scrubber if the markings are looking too bad.

It’s probably borne out of my being an optic slut, ha!

I move optics around so often that I’ve just evolved “lazy man” efficiency.

Silver sharpie and a little dot at 6 o’clock on the screw.

Black sharpie to cover it if I use the screw again, lol.

[SoCalDep]

SoCalDep and HCM (if applicable):

Very timely as I'm going to inspect some MOS mounted RMR2s. The plates have witness marks. If there is no indication of movement/looseness, any reason to retorque or otherwise address plate, aside from degreasing?
Thanks in advance for any insights.

Good question! I would leave the plate alone if it’s still tight.

[1Rangemaster]

Good question! I would leave the plate alone if it’s still tight.

Thank you sir.

Edit to add: makes me appreciate external battery compartments all the more...

[HCM]

SoCalDep and HCM (if applicable):

Very timely as I'm going to inspect some MOS mounted RMR2s. The plates have witness marks. If there is no indication of movement/looseness, any reason to retorque or otherwise address plate, aside from degreasing?
Thanks in advance for any insights.


Good question! I would leave the plate alone if it’s still tight.

Same, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[1Rangemaster]

Roger that!

[jgf]

I put the slide in a padded vice, use Fix it Sticks, and press straight down to fully and squarely seat the bit. Heat if there is red loctite.

I've found using a hot soldering iron touching the center of the screw for a short time works well.

[Utm]

FWIW instead of marking the optic body (which gets messy after multiple marks from multiple screw witnesses), I’ve gone to just marking the screw at 6 o’clock. If the mark is no longer at straight 6, then it has moved.

That way no mess on the optic itself.
I just use nail polish remover on a q tip to clean off the old witness marks

[mmc45414]

Unless it’s a weird non-standard screw that I don’t have spares of I will change the screws every time. I don’t necessarily think it’s required but at the cost of less than (usually) $0.25 - $0.50 a set I like using new ones.

I think I would worry about the socket as much as the integrity of the screw, though I guess at ~15 inch pounds my worry is probably misplaced.

[JCN]

I just use nail polish remover on a q tip to clean off the old witness marks

It’s not a big deal for sure, but I just don’t find the step necessary.

I’ve never had a screw loosen that was subtle. Usually it’s an 1/8 or 1/4 turn when it happens so marking to the 1/64th resolution doesn’t seem to hold much extra benefit for me. I would consider it if there were only one screw but for a dual screw system, 6 o’clock and just not dealing with any optic marks works well.

[ECK]

I just use nail polish remover on a q tip to clean off the old witness marks

Same, except I use Goo Off. Wife’s not a big nail polish girl, so don’t have any NP remover in the house.

[JCS]

Unless it’s a weird non-standard screw that I don’t have spares of I will change the screws every time. I don’t necessarily think it’s required but at the cost of less than (usually) $0.25 - $0.50 a set I like using new ones.

Where do you get screws for that price?

I just ordered a set of Torx screws for an SRO from Jagerworks and it was $7/pair!

[mcgivro]

Turn the screws counter-clockwise.

[SoCalDep]

I think I would worry about the socket as much as the integrity of the screw, though I guess at ~15 inch pounds my worry is probably misplaced.

The major problem with screws in pistol mounted optics is shear force since the slide is reciprocating with a high amount of lateral force, potentially against the fastener (screw).

Ultimately, there are to my knowledge three forces acting on a fastener. The most common in terms of listing of screw/fastener strength is tensile, which are the forces acting parallel to the length of the screw. This includes the two parts being attached pulling apart, as well as a screw that’s being tightened against two parts.

Shear force is roughly, depending on the formula used, around 57-58% of tensile strength. It’s related but not the same. I’m no engineer and there are people on this forum who can explain this much better than me, but in the case of pistol optics, you’re going to see shear failure well before tensile failure unless you’re torquing at a crazy amount.

The third force is torsional, and that’s where one can shear a screw on installation. I know less about torsional force than I do about tensile or shear, and that’s not saying much, but suffice to say that if you’re putting too much torque into a screw to where you go beyond the elastic deformation range of the material and enter plastic deformation (where the metal moves and can’t return to it’s previous state/position) then the strength of the screw is now seriously compromised if it doesn’t break altogether.

That said, torsional impacts dissipate quickly once the force is no longer applied so as long as it’s not “too much”, it won’t get “worse”. Tensile forces are minimal in pistol optics since the primary force of slide reciprocation is horizontal. Shear forces are the main culprit, and those affect the screw and not the threaded holes in the slide. If one is damaging the slide they are seriously messing up optic installation protocols.

If I’m wrong please let me know... Engineering means math and I’m a deputy so my college math experience is “math for non-majors”.

[SoCalDep]

Where do you get screws for that price?

I just ordered a set of Torx screws for an SRO from Jagerworks and it was $7/pair!

What pistol/plate are you attaching the SRO to?

Most of what I use comes from McMaster-Carr and for Trijicon stuff it’s pretty much all high-strength alloy steel. It just depends on the length dimension for the specific pistol. I only have information for a small selection of pistols that my department approves, but if it matches what you use I can get you the order number from McMaster. They don’t pay me but at this point they damn well should.

[SoCalDep]

It’s not a big deal for sure, but I just don’t find the step necessary.

I’ve never had a screw loosen that was subtle. Usually it’s an 1/8 or 1/4 turn when it happens so marking to the 1/64th resolution doesn’t seem to hold much extra benefit for me. I would consider it if there were only one screw but for a dual screw system, 6 o’clock and just not dealing with any optic marks works well.

I went back and looked at the pictures I have when we tested the Trijicon SRO. It wasn’t realistic since we fired almost two thousand rounds in less than a half an hour, but the movement of the markings was very small. It was way less then an 1/8th of a turn. The optic was shooting well off point of aim and the screw sheared as soon as I attempted to remove it.

I then spent way too much of my life going through a crap ton of pictures and found that when our T&E Leupold DeltaPoint Pro came loose on our S&W M&P 2.0 OR pistol it was a super minimal amount - well less than with the SRO. In this case, we had no torque spec and we were experimenting to determine what would work without being too much. In this particular case with factory S&W hardware 12 in/lbs was too little. We also found what was too much, which I think was around 20 in/lbs when the hex drive stripped. We later determined based on our “experiments” exactly what S&W engineers confirmed, which is 15 in/lbs. We didn’t abuse the pistol/optic with the DPP like we did with the SRO so there’s that too.

I’ve seen a lot of optics come loose, and most of them were perceptible if there were indicator markings. The fact is though that almost all of them were “felt” before they were seen, and the marking deviation was minimal. I have on numerous witnessed occasions walked up to people in class, asked them to hold their pistol on target, wiggled the optic, and then had them come off the line to get it re-mounted. The witness marks are almost always “not perfect” but “not horrible”.

Ultimately, the indicator marks are an “early warning” against complete shear failure, and by the time any movement is perceptible stuff’s gone wrong and the optic needs a complete re-mount. The screws are potentially (probably) structurally impacted and the gun is likely if not definitely not shooting to point of aim any more.

[JCN]

SoCalDep that’s great data and thanks for educating us as always! I love this place and really appreciate you taking the time to tell us what you know and why you know it!

[mmc45414]

The major problem with screws in pistol mounted optics is shear force since the slide is reciprocating with a high amount of lateral force, potentially against the fastener (screw).
If I’m wrong please let me know... Engineering means math and I’m a deputy so my college math experience is “math for non-majors”.
Ah, yeah, I was FoS on that, you are exactly right...
I think my thoughts jumped to general experience with hex and torx capscrews, seems like the sockets hold up well enough to GET them too tight, but then are loose when you are trying to get the suckers out. But at the ~15ip for an RDO that shouldn't be the issue. But those screws are hammered with shear force twice for every shot.



Where do you get screws for that price?
I just ordered a set of Torx screws for an SRO from Jagerworks and it was $7/pair!
Figure that they are charging you $7 to pay somebody to take them out of the McMaster box and put two of them in a ziplock, $7 is really more of a handling charge.


Most of what I use comes from McMaster-Carr and for Trijicon stuff it’s pretty much all high-strength alloy steel. It just depends on the length dimension for the specific pistol. I only have information for a small selection of pistols that my department approves, but if it matches what you use I can get you the order number from McMaster. They don’t pay me but at this point they damn well should.
Here is the link to McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/torx-flat-head-screws/alloy-steel-torx-flat-head-screws-8/), and Trijicon says they ship the SRO with 1/2" long flat heads:
99576
If you have the ones you just got from Jagerwerks (or the old ones) and can measure them, just know that flatheads are the whole screw, not to the shoulder:
99577

Also, if you live in a town where there are any factories Fastenal is another option, and they probably have something like that on the shelf or if you ship to the store I do not believe there is any shipping charges.


I then spent way too much of my life going through a crap ton of pictures

SoCalDep that’s great data and thanks for educating us as always! I love this place and really appreciate you taking the time to tell us what you know and why you know it!
Yup, for sure. There is a ton of knowledge here that you can trust.

[Sal Picante]

What are the tricks to removing the RDS?

I just shoot a lot and they seem to fall off on their own... Is that not working for you?

p/CTK9Gvmn1xS

[JCS]

What pistol/plate are you attaching the SRO to?

Most of what I use comes from McMaster-Carr and for Trijicon stuff it’s pretty much all high-strength alloy steel. It just depends on the length dimension for the specific pistol. I only have information for a small selection of pistols that my department approves, but if it matches what you use I can get you the order number from McMaster. They don’t pay me but at this point they damn well should.

SRO to factory Dawson plate on Staccato P.
According to the insert that came with all the optic stuff. The screws are 6-32 x 7/16 FHC screws for the SRO to plate. Plate to slide is m4-0.7 x 4mm LHC screws.

[JCS]

Ah, yeah, I was FoS on that, you are exactly right...
I think my thoughts jumped to general experience with hex and torx capscrews, seems like the sockets hold up well enough to GET them too tight, but then are loose when you are trying to get the suckers out. But at the ~15ip for an RDO that shouldn't be the issue. But those screws are hammered with shear force twice for every shot.



Figure that they are charging you $7 to pay somebody to take them out of the McMaster box and put two of them in a ziplock, $7 is really more of a handling charge.


Here is the link to McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/torx-flat-head-screws/alloy-steel-torx-flat-head-screws-8/), and Trijicon says they ship the SRO with 1/2" long flat heads:
99576
If you have the ones you just got from Jagerwerks (or the old ones) and can measure them, just know that flatheads are the whole screw, not to the shoulder:
99577

Also, if you live in a town where there are any factories Fastenal is another option, and they probably have something like that on the shelf or if you ship to the store I do not believe there is any shipping charges.



Yup, for sure. There is a ton of knowledge here that you can trust.

Well I have learned more about screws in the past 10 mins browsing the site than my entire life but it's still confusing all the acronyms! FHC and LHC?

Here's what Dawson charges $15 for: 6-32 x 7/16 FHC screws for the SRO to plate. Plate to slide is m4-0.7 x 4mm LHC screws. The plate to slide is a unique one I haven't seen on any other mounting systems.

Are these the two I need?

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thread-size~6-32/length~7-16/head-type~flat/
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thread-size~m4/length~4-mm/head-type~socket/

[Harry Flashman]

I just shoot a lot and they seem to fall off on their own... Is that not working for you?

p/CTK9Gvmn1xS

Well I did not think of that method. May try that in the future.

I do appreciate the responses. I bought some extra screws from CH Precision (I had their plate), a fix it stix, and Duracell batteries. Got it off and new battery in. I will conform zero later this week.

Thanks again for getting me up and running again.

Nothing fancy, just a simple glock 19 and rmr, but I like it and am guessing I could do a lot worse.

[mmc45414]

Sorry for the delay, busy weekend.
FHC = Flat Head Capscrew
LHC = pretty sure this is the Low Head Capscrew
Just be sure you understand they are measured differently:
99771

I think you linked the correct ones.
Thing is, the SRO loads from the top, now should we guard against fatigued screws by changing them when you change a battery?...


Well I have learned more about screws in the past 10 mins browsing the site than my entire life but it's still confusing all the acronyms! FHC and LHC?

Here's what Dawson charges $15 for: 6-32 x 7/16 FHC screws for the SRO to plate. Plate to slide is m4-0.7 x 4mm LHC screws. The plate to slide is a unique one I haven't seen on any other mounting systems.

Are these the two I need?

https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thread-size~6-32/length~7-16/head-type~flat/
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/thread-size~m4/length~4-mm/head-type~socket/

[ECK]

Thing is, the SRO loads from the top, now should we guard against fatigued screws by changing them when you change a battery?...

Good question. Two schools of thought on that one for me.

#1: It’s cheap insurance, and on a high round count gun I probably would (and have).

#2: Naw, leave it unless the screw looks janky or there were issues when removing it/installing.

I shot my primary comp gun w/ SRO more in 2021 than I did 2022. In Dec ‘21 I did a full replacement of all my internal springs, changed battery, and also replaced the screws. But in 2022 I only shot ~5K (I shot some other guns in comp for a few months, plus I didn’t practice as much due to component shortage). So I’m holding off on doing spring replacements until I get more rounds on that gun.

On another optic gun back in April ‘22 the SRO died so I sent it back to Trijicon for warranty work (it died after about 3 years of use). When I got it back I installed it with new screws.

[SoCalDep]

Thing is, the SRO loads from the top, now should we guard against fatigued screws by changing them when you change a battery?...

Based on what I’ve seen, my experience and research, if an optic does not require removal for battery change, it should not be removed, nor should the screws be switched during a battery change. In fact, I won’t buy another RMR and I’ve sold/traded three of the four I’ve owned exactly because I have to remove the optic to switch the battery. Changing screws during a battery change completely invalidates the advantage of a top/side load.

From my research (and I’m no engineer), threaded fasteners (screws) are essentially like rigid springs. As long as the forces upon them do not exceed the elastic deformation range of the screw it can maintain its strength over a very long period of time. If the forces cause plastic deformation the screw is compromised, and will likely come loose and/or shear. That’s not a time thing, it’s a force thing and changing springs at an arbitrary interval in no way guarantees they won’t fail in between.

I’ve seen extremely high round count guns with optics. Some of ours have well over 50,000 rounds through them. None of mine do because I switch guns too much and don’t shoot as much recently. I’ve never seen a screw fail at a high round count. It’s always in the first couple thousand rounds when the screws come loose due to a mounting failure. If the mounting is good don’t mess with it. Change the battery and drive on. Only replace the screws if you have to re-mount the optic (warrantee replacement as described in the previous post, required battery change as with an RMR, or screws coming loose due to something going wrong with the mounting system).

[JCN]

SoCalDep

Out of curiosity, have you ever seen a DPP screw shear?

Philosophically, I’m wondering if the thing that will make screw mount optics more durable…

Are RDS specific screws like Leupold does, with a more robust column and just a threaded tip.

[SoCalDep]

SoCalDep

Out of curiosity, have you ever seen a DPP screw shear?

Philosophically, I’m wondering if the thing that will make screw mount optics more durable…

Are RDS specific screws like Leupold does, with a more robust column and just a threaded tip.

I’m trying to the ink of a sheared DPP screw and can’t recall any. Plenty have loosened up though.

[JCN]

I’m trying to the ink of a sheared DPP screw and can’t recall any. Plenty have loosened up though.

Wonder if that’s a depth of engagement issue. Seems like those screws as supplied typically don’t go as deep as some other screws into plates and mounts.

But to the point of preventing screw shear, maybe it’s not an issue with good quality screws, but a thicker unthreaded shaft might give it the strength it needs. Clamp is still superior though for sure.

[mmc45414]

Wonder if that’s a depth of engagement issue. Seems like those screws as supplied typically don’t go as deep as some other screws into plates and mounts.
But to the point of preventing screw shear, maybe it’s not an issue with good quality screws, but a thicker unthreaded shaft might give it the strength it needs. Clamp is still superior though for sure.

It is my understanding that depth should not effect shear, but what depth is going to gain us is more thread locker engagement, and microscopic movement of the optic is what will lead to shear, and that only has a chance when the screws back out, even a little. Part of my decision to go with a direct mill installation (SRO) was this, a thin plate is not going to give the thread locker much room to work.

I know we discussed witness marks, but what about periodically slapping the torque wrench back on it to make sure things are tight? I am skeptical of my own suggestion, because I think the thread locker will prevent it from being tightened the same as it should limit it from loosening.

[JCN]

It is my understanding that depth should not effect shear, but what depth is going to gain us is more thread locker engagement, and microscopic movement of the optic is what will lead to shear, and that only has a chance when the screws back out, even a little. Part of my decision to go with a direct mill installation (SRO) was this, a thin plate is not going to give the thread locker much room to work.

I know we discussed witness marks, but what about periodically slapping the torque wrench back on it to make sure things are tight? I am skeptical of my own suggestion, because I think the thread locker will prevent it from being tightened the same as it should limit it from loosening.

No what I was saying is that when SoCaldep said the DPP screws don’t shear, they back out I was saying maybe that’s a thread engagement issue more than a screw design issue and having an SRO or EPS screw with a wider body would resist shear from stored twist / torque better than a thinner body screw?

The DPP screws are a wider column with a threaded tip. If someone made SRO screws like that might be better?

[mmc45414]

No what I was saying
I think my post sounded like I was disputing and the intent was more like "and another thing...." :cool:

[MrM]

I removed the LTT plate from my Beretta to do some extractor maintenance. I’ve been following the optic mounting steps on these forums (especially from SoCalDep). I just test fit everything with the alloy steel McMaster-Carr screws. Now I'm in the middle of degreasing all the parts. How should I remove the old cured Loctite 248 from the threads in the slide hole? I've used Gun Scrubber. I've also used acetone and brake cleaner with pipe cleaners and a brass tooth-brush. There is no oil or grease left but there still seems to be white powder in the threads (I'm assuming its the loctite). Help. My first post here. I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge on so many subjects. Thanks in advance.