Pocket Carry Advice

[feudist]

Those who regularly carry an auto in your pocket, how do you deal with the squared off back of the slide whilst drawing?

Is there a particular holster or drawing technique to offset the snaggy profile?

I'm aware of the LCP's fastback advantage, but I've had unacceptable reliability from both a LCP and a LCP2 in .380, as well as epidemic light strikes in a LCP2 .22.

Contemplating a P365 in .380 as a possibility.

I've always defaulted to my 442 for a pocket pistol, but advancing decrepitude makes practicing with it, even loaded with wadcutters, simply too painful, even with oversized rubber grips.

I've watched the P&S eps on snubbies, mouseguns(miceguns?) and the one on the double deuce LCR with DB and Rhett. I found that last one quite compelling.

[Dov]

I pocket carry pair of G26's with Kramer Pocket holsters.

I would suggest standard CCW advice regardless of carry technique of getting couple different quality holsters and practice with EMPTY guns.

Different holsters will have different nuances to what you need to do to snag holster in pocket, unless you go to length of using velcro or some such to secure holster to pocket, and you should also practice what to do if holster gets drawn with the pistol.

I'm sure DB, Chuck, and Mas among others have better techniques for this than me.

But what I do with the G26's, first like with IWB I find larger than otherwise pants helps in general with pocket carry of things bigger than P32/LCP (which I gave up on because couldn't shoot guns that small well except very slowly) and I use thumb on back of slide (bit different than what Mas has written about for J frames with hammer spur) plus angling draw so that the top rear of slide is moved towards open part of pocket vs edge of pocket. I don't try to do a proper belt holster draw from pocket, because like DB says about shooting revolvers different than pistols for grip, I have found smooth pocket draw at least with bigger pistols requires some specific differences.

Basically I'm rocking floorplate of magwell towards center of pocket first, then rolling it back so slide is towards center of pocket while scraping the hook on the holster on the inside of the pocket.

I used to pocket carry P32 before I gave up on that tiny grip not working for me under any pressure at all and switched to S&W 637 (Airweight with exposed spur hammer).

Personally that J frame gave me more headaches with drawing from pocket than the G26's do, though I use thumb as wedge/snowplow on it like Mas has written about years ago.

I eventually switched to G26 in stronghand pocket, always carried the J frame in weak hand pocket even when it was only gun.

Eventually though I switched to pair of G26's because they are so much easier to shoot well than J frame.

Also note because of injures and health issues concealed belt holsters don't work for me, I end up crippled for more than a day from back spasms if I use behind the hip. And Appendix doesn't work ether.

Pocket works for me, so I lived with the limitations of it. Pocket carry with G26's is sometimes a PITA and on occasion I have to drop down to j frame but the difference in shootability makes it worth the headache for me YMMV.

If your using a relatively small gun vs size of pocket you can use draw stroke more similar to belt holster draw.

Also some holsters, like the Mika Pocket holster can provide pretty fast draw with smaller pocket guns. But it doesn't retain pistols well enough for me, I like a lot of things about the Mika, but I learned when I had crawl under my car to get it started that it would dump pistol out of pocket on me.

If your not worried about laying or rolling on the ground in a fight or otherwise then it isn't a concern.

[Duelist]

Those who regularly carry an auto in your pocket, how do you deal with the squared off back of the slide whilst drawing?

Is there a particular holster or drawing technique to offset the snaggy profile?

I'm aware of the LCP's fastback advantage, but I've had unacceptable reliability from both a LCP and a LCP2 in .380, as well as epidemic light strikes in a LCP2 .22.

Contemplating a P365 in .380 as a possibility.

I've always defaulted to my 442 for a pocket pistol, but advancing decrepitude makes practicing with it, even loaded with wadcutters, simply too painful, even with oversized rubber grips.

I've watched the P&S eps on snubbies, mouseguns(miceguns?) and the one on the double deuce LCR with DB and Rhett. I found that last one quite compelling.

Do you reload? My practice load for most airweight shooting is about 2.5-2.7 gr BE under a 105gr moly coated lead bullet. It’s about as much recoil as a .32 Long, barely more than a .22 WMR.

Do you have a steel center fire trainer for the 442, or a sub-caliber trainer? Either of those could keep you going. Shoot them a lot, shoot the 442 once in a while.

I have a P32. I only carry it when absolutely nothing else will do. I have big hands, so it is a cramped little compromise gun. Better than any pocket .25 or .22 I’ve tried, better round, more reliable.

I have 2xG42s. SWMBO shoots and carries one. I can shoot one even on my worst wrist days, but I rarely pocket carry one due to the slide hang up on the draw. Nothing beats the 640/642/442 (or a bobbed hammer 60/637) for a smooth pocket draw, and that is really what I need from a pocket gun, so I have accepted that they are where I’m going to live for most pocket carry.

[Dov]

I've always defaulted to my 442 for a pocket pistol, but advancing decrepitude makes practicing with it, even loaded with wadcutters, simply too painful, even with oversized rubber grips.

I've watched the P&S eps on snubbies, mouseguns(miceguns?) and the one on the double deuce LCR with DB and Rhett. I found that last one quite compelling.

Just so you know your not alone with pain issues from age/disease.

My normal practice ammo for 38/357 revolvers is 130FMJ which I think is on par anemic wise with Wadcutters and I can shoot that in my 637 but 2 cylinders full last time I shot it left me with severe hand pain for 3+ days.

If I wasn't so budget constrained at the moment I'd get a S&W 640, Kimber K6s and maybe a 2" K frame to try and see how that went.

On the positive side 38's in my 4" S&W 28 are fine, even 38+p though I gave up on magnums in it.

[EMC]

"advancing decrepitude". That's an awesome phrase that I'm stealing. [emoji1][emoji106]

[feudist]

Do you reload? My practice load for most airweight shooting is about 2.5-2.7 gr BE under a 105gr moly coated lead bullet. It’s about as much recoil as a .32 Long, barely more than a .22 WMR.

Do you have a steel center fire trainer for the 442, or a sub-caliber trainer? Either of those could keep you going. Shoot them a lot, shoot the 442 once in a while.

I have a P32. I only carry it when absolutely nothing else will do. I have big hands, so it is a cramped little compromise gun. Better than any pocket .25 or .22 I’ve tried, better round, more reliable.

I have 2xG42s. SWMBO shoots and carries one. I can shoot one even on my worst wrist days, but I rarely pocket carry one due to the slide hang up on the draw. Nothing beats the 640/642/442 (or a bobbed hammer 60/637) for a smooth pocket draw, and that is really what I need from a pocket gun, so I have accepted that they are where I’m going to live for most pocket carry.

I do have a 640 and it's too much. I don't reload. I didn't realize you could load them that lightly.

[BillSWPA]

I have pocket carried either a Glock 26 or Sig P365 for years, and have only rarely experienced the issue of the slide catching the pocket. When I hook the back end of the pocket holster on the lower portion of the pocket lip to separate the gun from the holster, it brings the gun back far enough so that the back of the slide does not snag. The answer is practice and awareness of where the obstacles lie.

Most of my pocket carry is in relaxed fit, pleated dress slacks with vertical pocket openings. The roominess not only helps concealment, but likely also helps my draw.

I am currently using a Pocket Concealment Systems Tomahawk holster.

[Duelist]

I do have a 640 and it's too much. I don't reload. I didn't realize you could load them that lightly.

Just has to be moving fast enough to get it out of the barrel. I’ve shot those out of 2, 4, and 6” barrels with no trouble.

You can even load a .38 Special case with a Hornady round lead ball for a .36 Navy, which only weighs about 80 grains. Load it to the speed and recoil you need.

I had one of those light 105 gr mouse fart loads bounce back off a 50 gallon plastic drum. Didn’t even hurt when it hit, it was going so slow by then, but this is not recommended. ;)

[GJM]

I have read of, and watched YouTube videos, where the .380 365, unlike the 365 in 9mm, experienced reliability issues.

[JCN]

I do have a 640 and it's too much. I don't reload. I didn't realize you could load them that lightly.

https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/handgun/38-special-90-gr-ftx-critical-defense-lite#!/

Hornady makes a “Lite” loaded 38 special round with their FTX bullet.

https://www.sgogunsandammo.com/product-p/90300.htm

It’s milder than the 158 Federal wadcutters.

I use it in my Taurus View.

[feudist]

I have read of, and watched YouTube videos, where the .380 365, unlike the 365 in 9mm, experienced reliability issues.

That's discouraging.

[Clusterfrack]

I’m pocket carrying on a one-night vacation. I have not had a problem with snagging on the draw, but it takes practice to ensure separation from the holster every time.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220816/0a0a82fed18a85b01ecf33950fba5de9.jpg

[willie]

Pockets vary according to brand. I bought several Propper brand pants having front pockets with very wide openings. For a G26 5 Shot Leather makes a horsehide pocket holster that excels in every respect. Years ago my wife replaced some front pockets with a much heavier and softer material. Comfort increased, and printing of an unholstered weapon lessened.

[Duelist]

https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/handgun/38-special-90-gr-ftx-critical-defense-lite#!/

Hornady makes a “Lite” loaded 38 special round with their FTX bullet.

https://www.sgogunsandammo.com/product-p/90300.htm

It’s milder than the 158 Federal wadcutters.

I use it in my Taurus View.

Oh, wow! That’s the lightest commercial .38 Special I’ve seen. I’d seen some 110gr JHPs ranging from the Hornady FTX (nice load, btw) up to the +P+ Treasury load, but never a lighter commercial bullet than 110.

[Navin Johnson]

Not sure what your specific issues are

Nothing draws like a J frame

Factory 130 grain JHP In my experience has way more recoil than wadcutters

An LCR 357 with wad cutters would have less recoil due to the weight

A G 42 is a pussycat if you’re not trying to run super high pressure shit

Thumb over the back of the slide is your best chance

I would recommend reloading for 38 and loading super light ones for practice and then factory faster ones for social purposes and sticking with the 442. The LCR is a bit bigger in the pocket. Possibly practicing with an all steel gun and caring the lightweight gun.

Not sure about the idiotic love for the 22 unless that’s all you can possibly handle obviously better than than harsh language ……

[paherne]

I tried, for years, to make a G43 in the pocket work. Autos suck for pocket carry. I carried it in a DeSantis nemesis pocket holster. The back of the slide would hang up on the draw a not insignificant amount of the time. I carry a M&P 340 in a Simply Rugged pocket holster that some guy named Bolke designed. It's what I carry when not carrying a gun. Last ditch, Rule #1, get off me, stick it in your eyeball and press till problem goes away. I wear it in shorts around the house when rolling out the garbage trolley. Or PJs when relaxing watching the Hallmark Channel with the wife. Not really; I don't watch the Hallmark Channel. For actual carry, I use a G48 in a JMCK IWB at 3:30 OR a G43 in an AIWB holster along with the J-frame in the strong side pocket. Maybe switch to an LCR in .327 Mag and carry .32 wadcutters in it? Along with another pistol.

[Hambo]

I don't reload.

You need to talk to Lost River.

[CraigS]

...

Most of my pocket carry is in relaxed fit, pleated dress slacks with vertical pocket openings. The roominess not only helps concealment, but likely also helps my draw.

I am currently using a Pocket Concealment Systems Tomahawk holster.
I agree completely on the type of slacks. I have also found that Wrangler cargo jeans/shorts work well. The pocket opening isn't vertical but it is a lot closer to it than most jeans. Carry the gun in main pocket and the velcro flap of the cargo pocket really helps to conceal the gun.

[Leroy Suggs]

I am a member of the "full of age, full of pain"group.
Over the last five or so years I really got into pocket carry.
Nowadays I do it most of the time.

The key to a no snag draw and comfortable carry is the pants. Specifically the pockets.
You will have to experiment with them and the holsters.

I have proven to myself with the right pants and holster you can draw a G26 100% no snag.

I use Lee pants and shorts and PCS Blackbird holsters.

Pictures sre G26 in Lee pants and a G43 and G26 in Pcs holsters.


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[TheNewbie]

I think it’s awesome that some of you guys can pull off carrying a G26 in a pocket. The jeans I wear are by no means skinny jeans, but I couldn’t get away with that. An LCRx is about the limit for me unfortunately.

[Half Moon]

Pocket size and opening geometry make a big difference. In this regard, the CCW breakaway khakis are just about perfect for me:

https://ccwbreakaways.com/

The actual breakaway part is gimmicky and doesn't work well for me with a tight belt. The adjustable deep pockets and large vertical opening work very well though. Without using the breakaway snaps, the draw is more a diagonol back and up than vertical. Not describing it well but weirdly just found I really have a hard time doing it smoothly while trying to think about it and go slow. Just doing it on the other hand is fast and smooth. Go figure.

Mostly a revolver carrier so this may or may not help with a bottom feeder.

[feudist]

Pocket size and opening geometry make a big difference. In this regard, the CCW breakaway khakis are just about perfect for me:

https://ccwbreakaways.com/

The actual breakaway part is gimmicky and doesn't work well for me with a tight belt. The adjustable deep pockets and large vertical opening work very well though. Without using the breakaway snaps, the draw is more a diagonol back and up than vertical. Not describing it well but weirdly just found I really have a hard time doing it smoothly while trying to think about it and go slow. Just doing it on the other hand is fast and smooth. Go figure.

Mostly a revolver carrier so this may or may not help with a bottom feeder.

Have you tried the "anti-print shields"?

I've thought about modifying pants pockets with iron on denim patches.

[Lost River]

You need to talk to Lost River.


I saw the signal in the sky over the Lost River Mountains.. :D

Maybe some lighter 125 grain practice loads, followed by standard 148 wadcutters for carry would be the ticket.

That is definitely possible.

[Half Moon]

Have you tried the "anti-print shields"?

I've thought about modifying pants pockets with iron on denim patches.

I haven't. With a J or K snub, Mika's pocket holster, and strategically place speed strip, I end up with a minimal rectangular print that looks like a wallet or large smart phone(in fact very like the large smart phone print in my left pocket). So it hasn't been needed so much.

With autos the problem is always the fat squared off grip. It would be cool if the print shield helped clean that up. The breakaways do have a stub slit pocket thing on the outside of the pocket liner I think is intended for these. That would probably take care of at least one concern. On one DeSantis holster I have with the detachable 'fly', the 'fly' does a good job breaking up print but interferes with the draw. I suspect a print shield inside the pocket would be similar. Placing something like that outside the pocket lining would probably work better.

[Jim Watson]

Those who regularly carry an auto in your pocket, how do you deal with the squared off back of the slide whilst drawing?

My LC9s comes out of a pocket smoother than a G43.
It is reliable but your experience with LCP might bias you against it.

Neither is a soft kicker. I handload which lets me have sub-minor ammo to shoot the G43 in GSSF Pocket.
Practice with standard ammo in either is best done in short sessions.

[Tuefelhunden]

You guys may think I'm crazy but regarding the platform itself I've found the Sig P232 in aluminum frame the best pocket gun I ever owned. Shaped perfectly for the draw, heel mag release, perfectly contoured slide disappears in the pocket. Basically a light weight reliable PPK. Unfortunately they are not produced anymore but can still be found. Another one I'd consider is the Berretta Tomcat still in production.

[Hambo]

You guys may think I'm crazy but regarding the platform itself I've found the Sig P232 in aluminum frame the best pocket gun I ever owned. Shaped perfectly for the draw, heel mag release, perfectly contoured slide disappears in the pocket. Basically a light weight reliable PPK. Unfortunately they are not produced anymore but can still be found. Another one I'd consider is the Berretta Tomcat still in production.

Actually, I don't. A friend carried one as a BUG for years.

Very limited time with another friend's P365 made me think it could work for me as a pocket pistol. It's a back burner project, as I'm happy enough with my 442.

[LockedBreech]

I've been pocket carrying an LCP in a Desantis Nemesis for just shy of 13 years (LCP Gen 1 for 12, LCP Max for about 8-9 months).

I've got no problem drawing up+rear to catch the "lip" of the holster on my pants. After years practicing that draw it always works and comes clear of the holster.

That said, it's still clumsy and slow compared to even the most rudimentary IWB or OWB rig. That's the nature of pocket carry I've come to accept. It will never be the best option, it's just the one that fits situations where other guns can't be effectively concealed.

[CDW4ME]

Kahr PM9 is less snaggy than Glock 43 or Sig 365 (I have all three).
Kahr PM9 has less felt recoil than a snub - I'm not a snub fan. (I'm not in the 5 shots is enough club)
A pocket gun is at its best when it is 2nd option to another gun on belt. (Bonus thought)

[feudist]

Kahr PM9 is less snaggy than Glock 43 or Sig 365 (I have all three).
Kahr PM9 has less felt recoil than a snub - I'm not a snub fan. (I'm not in the 5 shots is enough club)
A pocket gun is at its best when it is 2nd option to another gun on belt. (Bonus thought)

I agree. I want the ability to ambush with the "Covered Low Ready" as DB puts it.

Today I worked out with my Glock 42 from a pocket A-Holster. Focusing on the pulling back motion of the draw yielded satisfactory results. Once you get shooting, the Glock is certainly the Easy button.

I'm looking into reloading some bunnyfart practice .38s too.

[Totem Polar]

So far as both easy draw, and conceal ability, I feel so moved to mention the classic Seecamp—mine is the .32. Absolutely snag free, and fits in any pocket worth having. Most def pockets easier than a j-frame centennial.

All that said, one has to be comfortable with a .32 with no sights. Within the limitations, for the “screw into the eye/ear/pickyerorifice” methodology, it offers a firearms-specific option to the 148gr wadcutter J.

FWIW.

[LockedBreech]

All that said, one has to be comfortable with a .32 with no sights. Within the limitations, for the “screw into the eye/ear/pickyerorifice” methodology, it offers a firearms-specific option to the 148gr wadcutter J.

100% - I consider my LCP as a pocket knife alternative, not a proper carry alternative, if that makes sense.

[feudist]

100% - I consider my LCP as a pocket knife alternative, not a proper carry alternative, if that makes sense.

But is it better than a Spetsnaz Ballistic knife?

No. No, it's not.

https://www.billstclair.com/weaponsman.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/IMG_1759.jpg

[Rex G]

Well, if it has to be an autoloader*, there is the Seecamp option, with a less-than-perpendicular rear face of the slide, and small overall rear surface area, which seems less likely to snag. A problem is that .380 Seecamps are reportedly painful to shoot, which means .32 ACP, for most of us in the decrepit category. Swapping magazines is not going to happen, in any hurry, not just because it is a heel-clip mag release, but a miniaturized heel-clip mag release. Some type of “silhouette” sight picture is all that is available. It is what it is. I am not recommending the Seecamp, just saying that it exists. My most-senior LWS-32 has never failed to feed, with Silvertips and Gold Dots. (I bought a couple more, but have yet to vet them.) The feeding cycle is simplified, because the feed lips are so very high, right there, behind the chamber. If the cartridge rises to the feed lips, it really should feed.

If I want to tote serious autos in a pocket, I might try well those Lee trousers that Leroy Suggs just pictured and described, plus, perhaps, that very interesting holster, and commit to the G26, in a left pocket, so that my less-decrepit left hand can reach it. The last time I really tried carrying a baby Glock in a pocket, it was a G27, ‘way back in 2002, when I transitioned to G22 duty pistols. I have forgotten much, since then, because I soon sold the G27, and bought my second spur-less-hammer SP101 snub-gun.

I may well see if a local police supply store still sells the Blauer duty trousers, like I used to be issued, while working for the PD. I seem to recall that I could slip an amazing large pistol, even a G19, into a front pocket, though I do not remember how much clearance there is, for the draw. I did not “carry” a G19 that way, but occasionally “transported” a G19, in a front pocket, if I recall correctly. If it can transport a G19, it might allow a G26 to be carried, in a proper pocket holster.

*I have very much embraced the revolving pistol lifestyle, lately, if not the smallest-frame-snubby lifestyle, but when I finally decide whether to grind-away the hammer spur, or try swapping for one of those NYPD-spec DAO hammers, I may well start totin’ a stainless S&W J-snub, with six .32 H&R chambers in its cylinder. I installed round-to-square conversion grips, which add just a bit of bulk, for a better grip experience.

[Rex G]

Some slam the Seecamp, because they are known to stovepipe the last empty case, when the mag is depleted. As I understand it, that is NOT a malfunction. Because the slide does not lock back, anyway, one has to run the slide, to reload. The act of running the slide, to chamber the first round in the fresh mag, clears that empty-case stovepipe. It is NOT necessary to clear the “malfunction,” before reloading. The last-empty-case stovepipe is neither a malfunction, nor a feature.

Of course, it was the original designer’s philosophy that reloading a personal defensive pistol, during a civilian gunfight, was an extremely unlikely event, so he did not design the weapon for rapid reloads, but to be very compact, snag-free, safe to carry with a round chambered, and usable with one hand. (He had been wounded, in an arm, on the Eastern Front, during WW2, while in the German army.)

[Sal Picante]

Those who regularly carry an auto in your pocket, how do you deal with the squared off back of the slide whilst drawing?

Is there a particular holster or drawing technique to offset the snaggy profile?



p/B_qVlhAJGf_

When I'm not AIWB'ing, I regularly pocket carry a KelTec P32.
I've tried a few pocket holsters before settling on this one: the holster has a "nub" behind the slide (top right in picture) which catches the pocket, pulling the holster away.

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Keep your thumb covering the back of the slide/hammer during the drawing and force the holster "nub" into the fabric of the pocket: The slide won't catch while the holster will pull away clean.

The technique works with Beretta break-barrel pocket guns, Kahr's and Rohrbaugh's. Haven't tried it with Glocks, etc.

[Evil_Ed]

I have been thinking of picking up a Beretta Tomcat in 32ACP, or even carrying my old Colt 1903 in 32ACP in a pocket, for just such a reason...I have a bunch of tiny/subcompact semi-autos (Detonics 45s, P99cs, yadda yadda yadda) but they all either print horribly, are unwieldy at best...or no one makes holsters for them.

I wear XL gloves so a lot of the pocket rockets are just awkward; for some reason the Colt seems to work for me, at the range. I need to try it out some more honestly and under pressure and if that 100 year old gun (literally, made in the early 1918) works for me...maybe?

It's not drop-safe, but then again...few autos older than me are...

[jh9]

Keep your thumb covering the back of the slide/hammer during the drawing and force the holster "nub" into the fabric of the pocket: The slide won't catch while the holster will pull away clean.

The technique works with Beretta break-barrel pocket guns, Kahr's and Rohrbaugh's. Haven't tried it with Glocks, etc.

Works fine with a Glock 42. I pocked carried one for years. Don't have it handy right now but I always put some of the thumb in the notch of the rear sight. Forcing the thumb knuckle to angle a little bit. Never had a problem snagging.

[flyrodr]

Have a pocket holster Robert Mika made for my P365 with a red dot. He extended the length so that it extends just beyond the butt of the gun, and also covers the red dot. IF I wear pants/shorts with large enough openings, the draw stroke is pretty smooth. Conversely, with lots of pants/shorts, the butt tends to snag (which I'm sure is because of the dot). But the setup is fairly discrete. When it does show, it doesn't look like a gun profile, but more like a glasses case (I wear prescription lenses) or "another" cell phone. So the holster part of the package is good.

The glasses case thing makes me wonder . . . anybody think a pocket holster with one of those leather-covered spring steel clips made to keep glasses cases in a pocket would predispose people to think you're carrying glasses in that pocket "case"? Especially if that clip was labeled with a well-known sunglass maker's logo?

[UNK]

Those who regularly carry an auto in your pocket, how do you deal with the squared off back of the slide whilst drawing?

Is there a particular holster or drawing technique to offset the snaggy profile?

I'm aware of the LCP's fastback advantage, but I've had unacceptable reliability from both a LCP and a LCP2 in .380, as well as epidemic light strikes in a LCP2 .22.

Contemplating a P365 in .380 as a possibility.

I've always defaulted to my 442 for a pocket pistol, but advancing decrepitude makes practicing with it, even loaded with wadcutters, simply too painful, even with oversized rubber grips.

I've watched the P&S eps on snubbies, mouseguns(miceguns?) and the one on the double deuce LCR with DB and Rhett. I found that last one quite compelling.

If you dont mind buying some clothes Deluth has some options that have horizontal pocket openings. I have their dry on the fly shorts, the opening is huge. Dont get their slash type because they changed those and the butt of a j frame is visible.

https://www.duluthtrading.com/men/pants/?feature=hpvn5

[4given]

Another old boomer here.

I am currently in a NPE 8 hours a day, 5 days a week where I pocket carry a LCP II .380 in a sticky holster. It conceals nicely in a pair of Wranglers. It has run flawlessly so far with my reloads and Speer Lawman ball ammo. Recoil and accuracy are acceptable with the Speer ball ammo so that is what I use for carry.

Most of the rest of the time I pocket carry a P365 9mm in a sticky, a 642 in a sticky or a KT p32 in a desantis nemesis depending on how I am dressed an where I am going. I do not have snagging issues. I think this is because I make sure I have the right pistol for each type of pocket. I actually take a pistol into the dressing room when I try on pants.

Yes the draw is a little slow but I do like the fact that I can have my hand on the grip in my pocket when need be. I have been pocket carrying strong side daily in some form or another for several years and I feel naked without something in my pocket.

[Doc_Glock]

Those who regularly carry an auto in your pocket, how do you deal with the squared off back of the slide whilst drawing?

I am aware of your LCP concerns, but I can not deal with a squared off rear like a Glock in the pocket. LCP max was my solution.

[feudist]

I am aware of your LCP concerns, but I can not deal with a squared off rear like a Glock in the pocket. LCP max was my solution.

I really like my LCP2's size, trigger and overall shootability. But it simply will not behave even with ball. Since I intend on carrying a pocket gun as a "Surprise, cockfag!" option integrating with another pistol AIWB, I wonder if getting off one shot(at least) would suffice?
Perhaps one of the old High Standard 2 shot .22 magnum derringers would be an idea. 11 ounces, flat and fastbacked, with 2 fer sure.
When I was a rookie we had a barber shop get robbed on Morris Avenue by 2 thugs one afternoon. An old customer stood up behind the 2 robbers, drew his High Standard from his pocket and executed both robbers.
Noice.

[Totem Polar]

100% - I consider my LCP as a pocket knife alternative, not a proper carry alternative, if that makes sense.

Makes a ton of sense. I sort of view the Seecamp the same way.

[Ed L]

I pocket carry all of the time. I have also had my dress pants modified by a tailor to deepen the pocket. Some pants pockets are too shallow to hold very much. A deeper pocket allows for pocket carry with a pocket holster and gives you better access. You want them made a little deeper--definitely not so deep that the gun's muzzle microtaps you in the knee with every step you take.

Also, super tight pants are not suitable for this modification. But deepening the pockets works with most business slacks and suit pants.

For less than the price of a new Glock you could probably get all of your pants modified.

[Ed L]

In my experience, Seecamp .32s are not great gun choices. They often break within a few hundred rounds and then the company takes forever to fix them and is impossible to communicate with. I have had this happen with 3 different Seecamps over the years.

I have never had a Seecamp that either came from the factory that worked OR lasted more than 200 rounds without breaking.

I picked up my first Seecamp .32 in the early 1990s at an out of the way Dallas gun store that has long since closed down. It was $380 at a time when these guns were selling for something like $800+ on the open market, and the company had at least a year waiting list on orders. I put about 200 rounds of Silvertip through the gun and it worked. So when I found a second one at the same store for the same price I bought it, but it did not work. It took 8 months of faxes and letters and certified letters to the factory to get it repaired. I got it back and it worked.

A few years later I was firing the original Seecamp and it broke. I doubt the gun had more than 400 rounds through it. Sent it back to the factory for repair and went through the same thing. Finally after 10 months the factory called me back and told me that they could not fix it because they changed their machinery so they would send me a replacement. I accepted their offer, testfired it for 200 rounds, and called it good. I later wound up selling the older one, while the newer one languished in the safe. In 2013 I took it shooting and it broke within a box of ammo. Sent it back and it took forever to get repaired. It now resides somewhere in my safe. I am not really sure why I still have it, but I am afraid to test fire it for fear it may break. I probably need to sell it along with a number of other things.

[paherne]

Also, as someone who has pushed an automatic pistol in extremis into another man's head and discovered that the disconnector works very effectively, i strongly prefer revolvers for such affrays.

[RJ]

Those who regularly carry an auto in your pocket, how do you deal with the squared off back of the slide whilst drawing?

Is there a particular holster or drawing technique to offset the snaggy profile?



Current rig for pocket carry is below. P365X fcu in a Sig OEM P365 grip module. No optic (I'm in between optics). Holster is a Vedder Pocket Locker with thumb stud. No particular draw technique. I did some dry work with an optic (*), and no real difference in speeds using a timer with optic mounted. I do like the thumb release, though. I can have my hand on my gun discretely at the gas pump, thumb on the stud, ready to draw from the pocket. Rig weighs 26.1 oz, with 10+1 of Federal HST 147 in the Sig OEM 10 round flat mag.

93141

* more on that here: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?51406-Pocket-carry-with-a-MRDS/page2

[gato naranja]

I've always defaulted to my 442 for a pocket pistol, but advancing decrepitude makes practicing with it, even loaded with wadcutters, simply too painful, even with oversized rubber grips.

This is how my all-steel snubby compulsion would have eventually paid dividends had I not cleaned house when I did. What pained me to run through a 642 was tolerable with a 640 and pleasant from an SP101. I now almost need suspenders or bib overalls to tote much iron around, but if that was the worst part of aging out I would be a much happier boomer than I am. An incurable wheelgun booster once informed me that a revolver was tapered on both ends like a football and thus was easier to draw from - and stuff back into - a pocket, all things being equal. I confess that a hammerless snubby did seem to be the answer, at least to my own satisfaction.

Then I got the itch for increased capacity.

After my somewhat ill-advised great revolver purge, I realized that semiauto slickness was not uppermost in many designers' minds. Even some of the old clucks like the CZ27 and FN 1910 will draw better than the squared-off monstrosities of late. Yeah, the relic and curio candidates may have sucky safeties and sights, but snag-resistant lines were apparently at least a consideration for the design teams of old. Too many of the really small modern semiautos that are designed for pocketability are almost impossible for me to get a fast, perfect grip on.

As things stand right now, an SP101 is still the pocket carry gun threatening to pull my khakis down around my ankles as I walk, and my one-off NanX - which remains a thoroughly good gun though flawed in some details - gets the nod for those times the SP is just too big. Both work, but are far from perfect.

[feudist]

Current rig for pocket carry is below. P365X fcu in a Sig OEM P365 grip module. No optic (I'm in between optics). Holster is a Vedder Pocket Locker with thumb stud. No particular draw technique. I did some dry work with an optic (*), and no real difference in speeds using a timer with optic mounted. I do like the thumb release, though. I can have my hand on my gun discretely at the gas pump, thumb on the stud, ready to draw from the pocket. Rig weighs 26.1 oz, with 10+1 of Federal HST 147 in the Sig OEM 10 round flat mag.

93141

* more on that here: https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?51406-Pocket-carry-with-a-MRDS/page2

Have you tried the .380?

[Glenn E. Meyer]

While this gun isn't available new anymore, I pocket a SW 432 (32 HR magnum) with https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=345 - their 32 SW Long wadcutters and it was manageable but I don't have hand problems yet (don't ask about legs and hips). Also the Fiocchi 32 longs were easy to shoot. They might work in an LCR. That's an empirical question.

I agree that drawing a J frame is easier than my G42 so I end up with it much ot the time.

To Feudist - good luck, I feel your pain.

[Rex G]

In my experience, Seecamp .32s are not great gun choices. They often break within a few hundred rounds and then the company takes forever to fix them and is impossible to communicate with. I have had this happen with 3 different Seecamps over the years.

I have never had a Seecamp that either came from the factory that worked OR lasted more than 200 rounds without breaking.

I picked up my first Seecamp .32 in the early 1990s at an out of the way Dallas gun store that has long since closed down. It was $380 at a time when these guns were selling for something like $800+ on the open market, and the company had at least a year waiting list on orders. I put about 200 rounds of Silvertip through the gun and it worked. So when I found a second one at the same store for the same price I bought it, but it did not work. It took 8 months of faxes and letters and certified letters to the factory to get it repaired. I got it back and it worked.

A few years later I was firing the original Seecamp and it broke. I doubt the gun had more than 400 rounds through it. Sent it back to the factory for repair and went through the same thing. Finally after 10 months the factory called me back and told me that they could not fix it because they changed their machinery so they would send me a replacement. I accepted their offer, testfired it for 200 rounds, and called it good. I later wound up selling the older one, while the newer one languished in the safe. In 2013 I took it shooting and it broke within a box of ammo. Sent it back and it took forever to get repaired. It now resides somewhere in my safe. I am not really sure why I still have it, but I am afraid to test fire it for fear it may break. I probably need to sell it along with a number of other things.

I had bad luck with two .25 ACP Seecamps, in the Eighties. The slide of the first one warped, the first time it got warm, from being test-fired. The dealer quickly swapped it for a second one, which worked quite well, for at least two or three years, until its firing pin broke. I then owned a very-early-Nineties LWS-32, which ran fine for a number of years, but, it was such a niche pistol, I eventually sold it, with some amount of carry wear, for what I had paid for it. (I sold it during the period when like-new and new ones were being sold at inflated speculator’s prices, if one could find them for sale.)

Perhaps the bad samples tend to break, relatively early in their service life?

I seem to remember there being a collective consensus that early .32 Seecamps, before a specific serial number, were best avoided. I remember that the one I had, at the time, which was my second LWS-32, acquired new, after prices stabilized, which I still have. was past that serial number. I have long forgotten the cut-off point of the to-be-avoided samples, but agree that one should do the diligent homework, if considering depending upon a Seecamp pistol, for defense.

When prices stabilized, to being able to buy them at ~MSRP, I bought my “replacement” LWS-32, new, which I still have. I knock on wood, when I say that it has been reliable. I have added a couple more well-preserved LWS-32 Seecamps, since retiring, but the panic-demic ammo situation has, thus far, caused me to defer vetting them.

[RJ]

Have you tried the .380?

No sir I have not.

[JPedersen]

No sir I have not.

I have the .380 Seecamp and it has run fine for me but is MISERABLE TO SHOOT. Totally uncomfortable. Batter my trigger finger immediately. Grip is so small that your trigger press is odd … just over all not that great in my opinion. I had an NAA Guardian in .32 that was sweet, smooth, and actually shot really well. I sold it to get the Seecamp. Big mistake. Wish I had the NAA again.

Have a Keltec P3AT that is over 23 years old … and still runs perfect. I have shot countess rounds through it (in pocket pistol terms…6k +easily… stopped counting after 2k vetting) and it still is the lightest , easiest, best one … but Keltec and all that…


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