Skipping chambers again

[03RN]

My m66-8 started skipping chambers a few months ago and was fixed with a new cylinder stop/spring.

Unfortunately it started again today. I didn't have much time to look at it but the cylinder stop still looks new.

I'm wondering if the notches got peened to death.

I'll post pics after work.

What are some things I should look for for other possible causes?

[Stephanie B]

If you bought it new, maybe put the IL back in and call for a RMA label?

[FrankB]

If you bought it new, maybe put the IL back in and call for a RMA label?

I had a S&W 5926 in for a checkup, and CS said they’re closed for maintenance until near the end of August. They’re supposed to send the pistol back next week, and I’ll have Dave Olhasso look at it. Sending and receiving will be open, but the CS rep didn’t give much hope for anything until September. 🤷🏼

[jandbj]

Ryan,

If you don’t mind me the ride another hour south of me… try Mike LaRocca in Worcester, MA.

http://laroccagunworks.com

[03RN]

Ryan,

If you don’t mind me the ride another hour south of me… try Mike LaRocca in Worcester, MA.

http://laroccagunworks.com

Thanks, i'll reach out to them if I can't figure this one out

[03RN]

If you bought it new, maybe put the IL back in and call for a RMA label?

Not sure I want them monkeying around with it. Especially if they replace the cylinder since I had the throats reamed.

[RevolverRob]

Look to see if there is peening on the leading (ramp side) of the cylinder stop notch, particularly as the ramp meets the notch. Peening build up there can depress the stop too far and make it skip the notch, instead of dropping into the notch like it should.

[Malamute]

You can strip it down and see if the locking bolt fits cleanly into the cyinder notches and bottom out fully in the notch. One more data point.

Keeping in mind the issues with car parts, do you have another locking bolt spring? Being new doesnt mean it hasnt failed. I recall click and clack saying they had multiple bad rebuilt or new parts turn up (2 or 3 of the same part failing before they got a good one in at least one case) in trying to repair vehicles. Ive had multiple failed brand new GFI outlets (dead right out of the box), and have had boxes of GE breakers have very high failure rates per box of 10 or whatever they package them in. New doesnt guarantee good parts.

From some of the experiences related here, I think Id prefer to take a severe beating to sending a gun in to the S&W factory for repair.

A suggestion, whenever ordering small parts, always buy multiples, with the shipping cost, they end up being rather cheap and its cheap insurance, having extra parts around sure never hurt my feelings.

[willie]

Instead of stoning a lip raised on either side of a notch, peen it with appropriate tool, either a rod or a square end punch. Also look at cylinder ring and note where it enters ramp leading into notch. Missing the mark will require recutting notches. Also you can adjust stop to increase how high step protrudes from frame. Heavier N frame cylinders offend in this way more often than do K frames.

Another malfunction can almost mimic skipping as described above. Hands not properly aligned can slip over the ratchets and turn the cylinder incompletely. The stop ends up between notches. My opinion is that if the revolver's action is properly set-up, skipping will not occur. But assembling by grabbing parts from a bucket does not serve everyone. Our large New Englander shoots his revolver extensively using full loads. I think he needs one to shoot and another to carry. He might try installing a much lighter Titanium cylinder. I bet the revolversmith in Massachusetts will fix the problem.

[SCCY Marshal]

...click and clack...

God, I miss that show.

[Maca]

I highly recommend Karl Sokol for old and new Smith work.

[03RN]

God, I miss that show.

Me too. I used to go to the dump with my dad and listen to it.

[03RN]

I cleaned it up from the other day and it's definitely skipping nearly every DA pull.

I did notice a little bit to much grease on and around the cylinder stop spring when I took the side plate off. I'm wondering if that's part of the problem. Its just so consistent I'm not sure that could be it.

I might try a new hand

[Malamute]

I cleaned it up from the other day and it's definitely skipping nearly every DA pull.

I did notice a little bit to much grease on and around the cylinder stop spring when I took the side plate off. I'm wondering if that's part of the problem. Its just so consistent I'm not sure that could be it.

I might try a new hand


Id strongly suggest trying no grease, just oil on that spring or the locking bolt. All it needs to skip when fired faster is a little less or slower push on the spring.


I dont think the hand would influence the locking bolt timing like this.

[03RN]

Id strongly suggest trying no grease, just oil on that spring or the locking bolt. All it needs to skip when fired faster is a little less or slower push on the spring.


I dont think the hand would influence the locking bolt timing like this.

Ok thanks. I will.

[Malamute]

Let us know if it makes any difference.

The locking bolt springs arent really very perky.

[jtcarm]

A suggestion, whenever ordering small parts, always buy multiples, with the shipping cost, they end up being rather cheap and its cheap insurance, having extra parts around sure never hurt my feelings.

Especially when you’re all thumbs.

There’s a bunch of cylinder-stop springs hiding somewhere in my shop.

[03RN]

Let us know if it makes any difference.

The locking bolt springs arent really very perky.

Nope. This spring is about as perky as I've ever seen. Nice and clean and still skipping.

[Malamute]

Nope. This spring is about as perky as I've ever seen. Nice and clean and still skipping.


Well heck.

Does the locking bolt fit cleanly into the notches in the cylinder when its apart? I think Ive had it happen once long ago, the bolt wouldnt bottom out in the notch. Mine wasnt skipping like yours but it was able to turn backwards after cycling with little effort.

Does the bolt move freely in the frame? Like pushing in or down with your finger theres no hangups and drag? You can watch it cycle with the cylinder out by pushing the thumbpiece backwards and holding it.

[jtcarm]

He might try installing a much lighter Titanium cylinder.

No such animal for a K-frame, though I wish there were.

[03RN]

So

I've been trying to figure this out by cycling it fast. Well I tried going slow and found that if you cock the hammer the cylinder doesn't turn enough and the stop doesn't fully seat. If I move the cylinder a c-hair further it drops in.

By going a little faster the cylinders momentum is enough for normal function and when cycling fast it skips.

So Im thinking either the ratchet or hand or both???

[OlongJohnson]

So you have two problems.

Failure to carry up can come from wear on the hand window, the hand, the ratchet, and the frame center pin hole. The easiest of these to replace is the hand. Be sure to do this test with cases in the cylinder, as they limit the over-rotation of the extractor relative to the cylinder. Just putting cases in it might be enough to solve the problem.

Failure of the cylinder stop to catch the notches at speed is a separate problem. Having eliminated dirt and a weak spring, I'd go back to looking carefully at peening of the notches and stop.

Some benos discussion:

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/189319-put-out-a-hit-on-skip-chambers/

In particular, stoning off the burr at the bottom of the lead-in ramps is on my list of SOP prep before ever going to the range or doing dry fire beyond function checks. On my GP, it made an audible difference in the solidity with which the cylinder is caught and stops. Rather than a "tick-chunk," it's just a "chunk." Also, the progression in peening of the cylinder notches has stopped completely since I got rid of those burrs. I also did it on the blackened stainless cylinder of my M&P 340. Very carefully, to minimize the bright edge left (that won't take cold blue), but I did it and would do it again.

If you adjust the cylinder stop to raise its position, pay attention to its engagement with the frame window as you slowly cycle it with the side plate off. You don't want to give up that engagement, as reducing the contact area between stop and window risks peening the window, and that will get ugly quickly.

I picked up some light springs from my local Ace Hardware to allow me to cycle the action safely with the sideplate off and not risk damaging the hammer stud due to it being unsupported. On a K/L/N, that will work for the rebound slide. Maybe a light rubber band around the stirrup or something for the hammer? You can do a lot of the cylinder timing checks without the hammer in the gun.

[jtcarm]

I’m normally a DIYer, but I gather you’ve run that gun hard and with a lot of magnums.

I’d say it’s time to send it to a good revolver-smith.

[Malamute]

So

I've been trying to figure this out by cycling it fast. Well I tried going slow and found that if you cock the hammer the cylinder doesn't turn enough and the stop doesn't fully seat. If I move the cylinder a c-hair further it drops in.

By going a little faster the cylinders momentum is enough for normal function and when cycling fast it skips.

So Im thinking either the ratchet or hand or both???

OJ made some good points.

Keep in mind that the later Smiths are supposed to have cases in them when checking carry up.

Also keep in mind that the common protocol for recent Smiths is to replace the ratchet star to correct carry up, not refit a hand.

I agree the skipping is a separate issue, but work to correct one at a time to be 100% certain.

[03RN]

I'll call s&w tomorrow to see if I can get an extractor

[FrankB]

S&W is closed until the end of August, but you can gain extractor here: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1648560

ETA My new 686+ had factory cut extractor ratchets that looked like they’d been shaped with a hatchet. I asked Dave Olhasso about it, and he said the same factory guy would probably just butcher them up again. S&W told me that they’d send a free extractor, but they were out of stock. I finally bought a cylinder/extractor combo from Midwest Gun Works, and Dave did a very nice job with it. I received a package from S&W a year later, and it was the extractor!

[Malamute]

I'll call s&w tomorrow to see if I can get an extractor


I looked a few days ago, Midway had some in stock for about $31.

[jh9]

S&W is closed until the end of August, but you can gain extractor here: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1648560

ETA My new 686+ had factory cut extractor ratchets that looked like they’d been shaped with a hatchet. I asked Dave Olhasso about it, and he said the same factory guy would probably just butcher them up again. S&W told me that they’d send a free extractor, but they were out of stock. I finally bought a cylinder/extractor combo from Midwest Gun Works, and Dave did a very nice job with it. I received a package from S&W a year later, and it was the extractor!

The 7-shot L-frame extractors (686+) are still fit by a person, for reasons known only to S&W. They do it the old way AFAIK with a barette file but they don't do them to the standards from S&W's better years.

The 6-shot K/L frame extractors (e.g. 66) are drop-in parts since around 1992-ish. So if you've got a problem with a 6-shot K/L the parts are available and it's a DIY affair. If you've got a problem with a 7-shot L then you've got an actual gunsmithing problem.

[jh9]

Two close ups of two leftover 686+ cylinders. The first one came off a gun made around `99 or so. The second one came off a much more recent, post-lock gun. Most of the newer production 686+ cylinders I've either owned or handled looked more like the latter than the former.

92408
92409

You can see on the latter gun where the metal flashing was left in place on the extractor teeth after the actual bearing surfaces were "close enough" and where there was less concern about burying the barette file into the base of the extractor..

edit: unfit 7-shot extractor for reference

92410

[03RN]

I looked a few days ago, Midway had some in stock for about $31.


Ordered

Thanks guys

[03RN]

With the new extractor in the hammer won't lock back for SA or drop in DA.

I can skip 2 of the chambers

[OlongJohnson]

You might have some binding, as in not enough clearance for the hand. I discuss that in my post/thread on unkittening my M&P340. It's also covered in the Kuhnhausen manual. Sounds like you're ready to own that.

[willie]

I remember that S&W armorer kits contained a couple 4 inch Barrette files. These are tapered with safe edges on back and sides. Coarseness numbers on such files increase from 0 on up. O is most coarse. I think the kit had numbers 1 and 2. Amazon has these. Midway also offers files. Smith files in the kits I saw were Nicholson brand. Grobet is another good brand. Perhaps a member with a factory kit will provide pictures.

Most know that hand thickness and not length contact the ratchet to move the cylinder. It goes without saying that checking for and removing burrs from the new part is one action. Look at the tips of the extractor to check clearance with cylinder. Also miking the two parts might reveal a clue. Hand alignment is checked by spinning the cylinder and listening for clicks--singing. Incorrect alignment can cause the hand to move rearward resulting in failure to rotate. I wonder if this might affect dropping of hammer due to binding.

In Colt revolvers the tip of the extractor contacts the extractor.

[OlongJohnson]

Two close ups of two leftover 686+ cylinders. The first one came off a gun made around `99 or so. The second one came off a much more recent, post-lock gun. Most of the newer production 686+ cylinders I've either owned or handled looked more like the latter than the former.

92408
92409

You can see on the latter gun where the metal flashing was left in place on the extractor teeth after the actual bearing surfaces were "close enough" and where there was less concern about burying the barette file into the base of the extractor.

Both of those are pretty horribly f'ed up. The fitted surfaces are badly angled top to bottom. The surface the hand bears against should be aligned with the axis of the cylinder, just like all the machined surfaces. And it should be parallel to a line that goes through the ejector arm at the bottom, through the center pin hole, and through the center of the chamber aligned with the barrel. That's the angle of the side of the hand, and you want the flat on the side of the hand to bear against a nice, smooth, parallel flat on the ratchet when it's in lockup. Anything else only leaves a line or even a point of contact, which will wear out of time prematurely. I'd want to start with the new one and get it right. Two smooth and parallel flats will stay in time for a good, long while.

The tool I used is a "pillar file." I have thrown some money at fleabay sellers of NOS files from before the Death of Quality. The file leaves the surface a little rough; I very carefully stoned it after I'd gotten close with the filing.

While you're at it, smoothing the "non-working" edge of the ratchet tooth that the hand drags across on trigger release (and the corresponding surface of the hand) does noticeably affect the smoothness of the reset, once you are chasing the last bits of suck out of things.

[jh9]

Both of those are pretty horribly f'ed up.

I don't think you're going to find a factory 7-shot extractor done better than the top one. It's a dirty part, sure, but I've never seen one cut better from the factory. The punchline there is the second part which while functional (as shipped) is just... gnarly looking. Honestly I've seen some vaunted pre-war guns with hand-fit 6-shot extractors that were pretty rough too. Including 1930s era This Is What Peak S&W Looks Like. And the mistakes look very similar.

The modern CNC cut 6-shot drop in extractors are a boon. There are better ways than the factory way to cut a 7-shot extractor. Send a cylinder with an uncut extractor to TK custom and look at what they send back. Different from OEM, and probably better in every way.

[Malamute]

I don't think you're going to find a factory 7-shot extractor done better than the top one. It's a dirty part, sure, but I've never seen one cut better from the factory. The punchline there is the second part which while functional (as shipped) is just... gnarly looking. Honestly I've seen some vaunted pre-war guns with hand-fit 6-shot extractors that were pretty rough too. Including 1930s era This Is What Peak S&W Looks Like. And the mistakes look very similar.

The modern CNC cut 6-shot drop in extractors are a boon. There are better ways than the factory way to cut a 7-shot extractor. Send a cylinder with an uncut extractor to TK custom and look at what they send back. Different from OEM, and probably better in every way.


I should dig mine (7 shot cylinder) out and look at it. I tried a 7 shot 686 cyl in an early 586, it dropped in with zero fitting or other changes, it times exactly like the 6 shot one did, even to one single chamber being just slightly lazy in carrying up when under tension.

I tend to carefully deburr the rough edges of extractor ratchets, it helps the cylinder spin smoother and more freely. The ones pictured are rougher than any Ive had.

TK used to do action jobs, my dad had several done by him and they were very nice.

[03RN]

Now I'm wondering if it's the hand torsion spring.

I was messing around after work last night and the hand was not as positive as the one in my m65.

Unfortunately the trigger pin sizes aren't the same so I could swap triggers to really find out.

[03RN]

A 0.92 hand is working better but there's 2 chambers it will only drop a hammer on if you squeeze the trigger like you're trying to choke it unless the gun is held gangster then it works 100% of the time.

[FrankB]

A 0.92 hand is working better but there's 2 chambers it will only drop a hammer on if you squeeze the trigger like you're trying to choke it unless the gun is held gangster then it works 100% of the time.

Someone on the S&W forum was having a similar issue, and I’ve heard this sort of info before:

In a panic situation, the hand could skip by a ratchet, and the gun won't fire.

Press trigger back enough to clear the cylinder stop, then spin cylinder. Listen for the hand clicking on the ratchets.

Press back and left = Left sing
Press back and right = Right sing
Press back straight = Neutral sing

If your right handed you normally pull the trigger to the right.

If no right sing: Bend hand over to right side of the window. To do this simply insert screwdriver underneath the hand and lift upward.

If no left sing: You will have to remove hand and tap it with a hammer to bend the hand over to the left side of the window.

The third way it could be out, where you can't correct the right or left sing, the hand is twisted.

Ideally, you want the gun to sing no matter how the trigger is pulled. New guns may not be adjusted proper, either. Check yours for fun...

OK I'll try and clarify this...
While you hold an empty revolver in your hand, lightly press on the trigger, just enough to disconnect the cylinder stop. Keep this pressure for this test.
Now press the trigger to the right or left then press it straight back. (In doing this you will discover the trigger has side-to-side slop in it. The slop in the trigger is also affecting the hand attached to it)
As the hand is bending along with the trigger, this is why sometimes left hand shooters have "timing" problems and when someone else looks at the gun it seems fine.

What I am trying to show (tough in print :)) is the adjustment procedure to correct this condition.

To correct the hand and make it neural, is to slightly bend the hand pin either left or right depending on the way it sings. This will adjust the hand sitting in it's slot.

For example, holding the gun with your right hand, "Press trigger back enough to clear the cylinder stop, then spin cylinder with your left hand. (Don't lessen the pressure on the trigger) Listen for the clicking sound from the ratchets, (sing). Kind of like in the western movies when they spin the cylinder...

hope this makes sense.

[03RN]

Well that's interesting

[FrankB]

Well that's interesting

There aren’t many timing videos on YouTube, but I’ve seen one or two discussing the same thing regarding trigger pull.

[OlongJohnson]

I might sacrifice a hammer spring and narrow it severely, so it only puts enough force on the hammer to move it for action-checking purposes. Then get a very light spring that fits the rebound slide spot from your local hardware store. Then test the gun with those springs installed and the side plate off so you can see what's actually going on without putting enough force on things to harm the unsupported hammer and trigger pivot pins. (The pins can be severely damaged if you cycle the gun with standard springs and no side plate.) A side benefit of "checking springs" is you can feel rough/binding/etc. spots a lot better and chase them out of wherever you find them to get the action as smooth as possible.

Example: With my M&P 340, the standard hammer and rebound springs masked the binding caused by the poorly-fit ratchets. With checking springs (and actually no hammer or hammer spring in the gun), then I could feel just the carry-up forces and the binding on 3 of 5 ratchets was obvious.

[jtcarm]

(The pins can be severely damaged if you cycle the gun with standard springs and no side plate.)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This is why I there’s almost no You-Boob “experts” I can take seriously.

[03RN]

There aren’t many timing videos on YouTube, but I’ve seen one or two discussing the same thing regarding trigger pull.


Back to the trigger... I was messing around with it the other day and there was a lot of lateral play in the trigger. I would describe it as wiggly.

Im going to try some washers to see if it tightens it up. If I don't have room for both sides of the trigger is there a better side?

[FrankB]

Try both sides, and if one side works, that’s the ticket. 👍😉

[FrankB]

Back to the trigger... I was messing around with it the other day and there was a lot of lateral play in the trigger. I would describe it as wiggly.
?

I just check both of my 686 triggers, and there is zero wiggle…nada. Hope that helps.

[OlongJohnson]

Back to the trigger... I was messing around with it the other day and there was a lot of lateral play in the trigger. I would describe it as wiggly.

Im going to try some washers to see if it tightens it up. If I don't have room for both sides of the trigger is there a better side?

I'd look at the parts to see which side is rubbing more and put it there. Also, if you haven't thoroughly deburr and smooth the inside surfaces/edges of the frame and side plate.

https://triggershims.com/sw_k_l_n_frame.php

I assemble the gun, check side clearance with feeler gauges.

(clearance-0.002")/2

is my formula for selecting shim thickness. Rather than rounding up or down, I'll use shims 0.001" different thickness on the two sides. Getting the lateral play down does make a big difference in how the trigger feels.

[03RN]

0.91 hand almost works perfectly on all the chambers but not quite. 0.94 doesn't help.

When I get home tonight I'm going to put the old extractor in and try it with all the new hands.

I forget if I mentioned it but I also filed down the pad on the cylinder stop a tiny bit. I also put a new hand torsion spring in.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do next.

[jh9]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

This is why I there’s almost no You-Boob “experts” I can take seriously.

FWIW, Randy Lee, Ron Power and Jerry Miculek all have videos of them doing the same thing (re: cycling the sprung action with the sideplate off).

The Ron Power and Jerry Miculek videos do this on guns with steel frames/studs. I think that's an important distinction. I think that's probably fine on steel guns. LSP972 (RIP) seems to have agreed (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?17882-S-amp-W-442-hammer-stud-failure&p=370549&viewfull=1#post370549). That said, I don't do it anymore and think of it as a proof load. If there is a material / heat treat / etc flaw in the stud, that will show it by either bending the stud or breaking it and throwing the top half across the room.

I wouldn't buy a used aluminum gun with a spring kit installed because I'd just assume they damaged the stud by "testing" the install with the sideplate off. And that's now going to let go sooner or later. We had a thread here 7 or 8 years ago where there was a rash of aluminum J-frame stud failures not that long after the Apex J-frame kits hit the market. I remember discussing it with LSP972 but I can't find it now. Bad batch of pins, bad install (cycling a sprung action w/o sideplate), or some combination of the two? Dunno.

Someone who knows more than me could probably comment on the difference between the elastic limits of bending an aluminum vs steel pin (stud).

[OlongJohnson]

Without checking the videos in question, there's a good chance that a gun Jerry would demonstrate that with would have a reduced power main spring installed.

[Malamute]

FWIW, Randy Lee, Ron Power and Jerry Miculek all have videos of them doing the same thing (re: cycling the sprung action with the sideplate off).

The Ron Power and Jerry Miculek videos do this on guns with steel frames/studs. I think that's an important distinction. I think that's probably fine on steel guns. LSP972 (RIP) seems to have agreed (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?17882-S-amp-W-442-hammer-stud-failure&p=370549&viewfull=1#post370549). That said, I don't do it anymore and think of it as a proof load. If there is a material / heat treat / etc flaw in the stud, that will show it by either bending the stud or breaking it and throwing the top half across the room.

I wouldn't buy a used aluminum gun with a spring kit installed because I'd just assume they damaged the stud by "testing" the install with the sideplate off. And that's now going to let go sooner or later. We had a thread here 7 or 8 years ago where there was a rash of aluminum J-frame stud failures not that long after the Apex J-frame kits hit the market. I remember discussing it with LSP972 but I can't find it now. Bad batch of pins, bad install (cycling a sprung action w/o sideplate), or some combination of the two? Dunno.

Someone who knows more than me could probably comment on the difference between the elastic limits of bending an aluminum vs steel pin (stud).


I cycle the trigger action without the sideplate, meaning trigger and rebound slide (and cylinder where appropriate for hand fitting), no hammer, to check interference when checking for problems or fitting a hand. Ive had the mainspring and hammer in also, but not at full tension, just enough to keep the spring in place and make the hammer move. I dont know of any problems, it just didnt seem smart to cycle it* with full tension on the mainspring without the sideplate. Never had a loose stud in the frame, Ive also never owned an alloy frame Smith, FWIW.


* and definitely not dry fire it without the sideplate.

[jh9]

I dry fired my fully sprung IDPA gun with the sideplate off several times before I realized that might not be ideal with no damage. Ultimately it seemed like not a lot of gain for the potential downside.


when checking for problems or fitting a hand

Now I do something similar, but with no mainspring or rebound installed I just put light thumb pressure on the back of the hammer to simulate it have some spring load.

[jh9]

Without checking the videos in question, there's a good chance that a gun Jerry would demonstrate that with would have a reduced power main spring installed.

It was his trigger job dvd. I think he started with a stock model 10. Haven't watched it in a long time. I think you're correct in that it almost certainly had a lightened spring by the end but IIRC it didn't at the beginning when doing the initial disassembly and inspection.

Based on LSP972 maintaining a fleet of S&Ws and not being too bothered by it I don't get overly concerned. But it is pretty much all risk and no reward so why do it?

[FrankB]

Speaking of YouTube videos, this guy looks good to me.


https://youtu.be/4ujyLn3lHBc

[03RN]

Sokol said he'd take it so I'll probably send it out this week.

[03RN]

Sokol said he'd take it so I'll probably send it out this week.

So that never happened due to new shipping regulations. Then I tried emailing him twice and calling him once with no reply the week prior to me planning on driving over there.

I'll try emailing again but I'm starting to think I should try working on it again.

I'm halfway tempted to buy a new cylinder, trigger, and hammer hoping that some hefty praying will get all the parts, or the combination of new parts and my old parts will work.

[03RN]

I just ordered a set of gauges to check the barrel/cylinder gap. I guess if it's an end shake issue than shims might be a cheap fix.

[03RN]

Malamute suggested I reach out to TK custom for help. I finally got around to emailing them a few days ago. I was primarily asking if their hammer and trigger might alleviate my issues.

Eli got back to me and said probably not. I told him what I did/tried and he recommended proper fitting of the cylinder stop. After a quick google search I found a good post that helped me fit the cylinder stop and now there is no more skipping chambers.

Merry Christmas

[Zeke38]

Problem solved! Enjoy your Christmas!

[Malamute]

Malamute suggested I reach out to TK custom for help. I finally got around to emailing them a few days ago. I was primarily asking if their hammer and trigger might alleviate my issues.

Eli got back to me and said probably not. I told him what I did/tried and he recommended proper fitting of the cylinder stop. After a quick google search I found a good post that helped me fit the cylinder stop and now there is no more skipping chambers.

Merry Christmas

Can you share your video source with us?

[03RN]

Can you share your video source with us?

Woops, of course
https://www.smithandwessonforums.com/threads/question-on-fitting-an-oversize-stop.176829/
98706