PDA

View Full Version : can't remove flash hider from M&P15-22 threaded barrel model



VolGrad
09-12-2012, 05:26 PM
Any suggestions?

I purchased one today, came home to familiarize myself with it and lube it up. I went to remove the flash hider so I could attach my suppressor but couldn't get it off.

I applied some lube in the tiny crevice and wrapped a cloth rag around it before taking channel locks to it. No go.

It sort of defeats the point of getting a threaded model if I can't get the flash hider off.

Anyone else had this issue?

orionz06
09-12-2012, 05:36 PM
Heat!

DVCPrepper
09-12-2012, 05:41 PM
My force continuum for stuck threads...

1. Soak in KROIL for a day. (works 90% of the time)
2. Use pencil torch after soaking.
3. Put in freezer for 4hrs then apply heat

Zhurdan
09-12-2012, 05:42 PM
It's not pinned on is it?

VolGrad
09-12-2012, 05:55 PM
It's not pinned on is it?

Doesn't appear to be. Shouldn't be. Not supposed to be.

I am going to have to borrow one of those AR barrel wrench thingies to see if that helps.

The only thing I have to apply heat with is a hair dryer.

JDM
09-12-2012, 06:03 PM
RE heat application:

You can get a heat gun for ~$30. It's a useful tool to have around the house.

Al T.
09-12-2012, 07:15 PM
Heat. Got to a discount store and buy a propane torch. Heat FS till it's smoking and unscrew.

Little Creek
09-12-2012, 07:48 PM
Just got a 22 rimfire silencer. Put it on my S&W M&P15-22. Wraped a piece of thick leather around the barrel and put it in a vise. Took an all purpose M4 style wrench and broke the flash hider loose.

Slavex
09-12-2012, 11:14 PM
Clamp in více using wood or leather or rubber to protect the barrel. No více? Use a strap wrench to hold the barrel near the muzzle break/flash hider. Put wrench on flash hider and attempt to scissor together with strap wrench handle. Keep them close together so you're only trying to turn it a small amount. If using více, same idea, clamp close to end of barrel if you can. Still no go? Butane torch the flash hider for about 1 minute, all the way around, then crank on it. If using a více feel free to put a bar on the wrench. Also try tightening it first, just enough to feel like you've done something then go the other way. Make sure you are going the right way too eh..

DVCPrepper
09-13-2012, 12:30 AM
A dedicated "jerk" works better than an increasing pressure to break items loose.

Peanut gallery:
No fishing out of the barrel on the above, way too easy. :)

Tamara
09-13-2012, 07:15 AM
Peanut gallery:
No fishing out of the barrel on the above, way too easy. :)

Heh. I was already composing my snappy retort in my head when I read this. You do know your audience. :D

orionz06
09-13-2012, 07:21 AM
Doesn't appear to be. Shouldn't be. Not supposed to be.

I am going to have to borrow one of those AR barrel wrench thingies to see if that helps.

The only thing I have to apply heat with is a hair dryer.

Gas stove? It really doesn't take much. Sometime this weekend go buy a heat gun and a propane torch. Alternatively a few mag dumps might warm it up too?

Dave J
09-13-2012, 08:27 AM
Electric stove would probably do the trick too.

VolGrad
09-13-2012, 01:47 PM
I have three options currently available to me;

1. A buddy declared today he is a master craft AR builder :p and would take it off for me if I bring it by this afternoon. He said he cringed when I stated I used channel locks on it.
2. Take it back to the store where I got it and have the guys in the back take it off.
3. Go home and take my Xikar cigar torch to the flash hider and try again myself.

I plan to try #3 first, then #1 if necessary. I'll report back. Thanks for the suggestions.

Al T.
09-13-2012, 05:51 PM
I've seen #3 done, but the FH has to get quite hot IME.

VolGrad
09-13-2012, 05:55 PM
I've seen #3 done, but the FH has to get quite hot IME.

Ya, it didn't work. I will be resorting to #1 on Saturday.

Al T.
09-13-2012, 07:52 PM
Make sure your guy has an action block. Lack thereof can get your carbine in a world of hurt.

VolGrad
09-15-2012, 05:01 PM
Make sure your guy has an action block. Lack thereof can get your carbine in a world of hurt.
Your suggestion will be referenced below.

Alright, Saturday afternoon update.

Let me back up and say what's been done thus far. I brought home the rifle and tried to remove the flash hider by hand. No go. I then put some lube on it and tried again. No go. I put a set of channel locks on the flats of the flash hider and applied hand pressure. No go. I used a cigar torch to heat the flash hider and tried again. No go.

My friend came over this morning to help me out. We still weren't able to get the flash hider off.

He tried by hand first. Then he applied Kroile (sic) and let it sit for a bit. We then used a receiver block and a AR tool/wrench and still couldn't get it off. Then he noticed the barrel had actually rotated from the torque and that in turn had jacked the extractor. It was a mess. We had to turn it back the other direction to get the BCG to even fit back in place. We stopped before we did any more damage.

I took it in to Clyde my LGS this afternoon. I spoke with the retail manager and the owner as to what my options were WRT dealing with S&W.

Secretly, I had hoped they would just swap it out for me and deal with S&W themselves but I knew that was a pipe dream. My logic was this, "There's no reason a glorified thread protector should be so tight it requires tools and know how to remove without damaging the rifle."

The owner both pleasant & professional but basically said it was my fault as the proper way to remove a stuck flash hider or suppressor is to clamp the barrel right at the end then torque the fh off. He said to never use a receiver block even on a real AR for that purpose as the torque will still screw you up. He said for a plastic gun it's an even worse idea. Anyway, he said he could take it in the back and get the fh off for me then he bent the extractor back into place. He test cycled a few rounds through it and it fed for him. He said he thinks it's fine now but I will find out tomorrow at the range. The owner said if it's not working after the "fix" then I am on my own dealing with S&W at my own expense.

I don't hold the shop or the owner responsible in the least. I appreciate the fact he "fixed" it for me. I do sort of think S&W sucks a little for attaching these things so tight. I mean why is it necessary? It's a rimfire and 99% of the folks that buy a TB model are going to immediately take the fh off and screw on a suppressor.

I'll report back tomorrow after test firing.

VolGrad
09-16-2012, 03:35 PM
I guess no harm, no foul.

I ran approx 400rds through the M&P15-22 today. The ONLY malf I had was one single round of Golden Bullet that didn't feed. It was the first round in a magazine and I think I didn't have the mag seated fully. I don't blame the gun or the ammo for that.

I ran a mix of CCI Mini-Mags, CCI Blazers, Golden Bullets, and FED bulk pack. They all ran great. It was a lot of fun to shoot and accuracy is great both with and without a can.

Al T.
09-16-2012, 06:04 PM
Man, I feel horrible about mentioning the vise. I completely spaced that it was an M&P 15-22. :o

VolGrad
09-16-2012, 06:14 PM
Man, I feel horrible about mentioning the vise. I completely spaced that it was an M&P 15-22. :o
Don't sweat it. I spaced too and I was the one doing it. It's not like it wasn't obvious it was plastic. Honestly though, I'd have figured the barrel was attached to something more than plastic. I never suspected the whole barrel to rotate like that. Who would?

One would think a thread protector (you can call it a flash hider if you like but on this gun it's nothing more than a thread protector) wouldn't be attached that well. I have never had issue removing one with just my hands.

As far as this thread though ... Slavex for the win. He was right on.