OTDefense Grip Fix, anyone do it?

[JCN]

https://youtu.be/tXbpiR4GQz0

I ordered a few kits to try out. I have a lot of Glock frames sitting around that I’m not using.

Anyone use this? It seems right up my Dremel and epoxy alley!

[UNM1136]

No. Had not seen, but may be very, very interested. Thank you!

pat

[JCN]

No. Had not seen, but may be very, very interested. Thank you!

pat

When I get mine, I’ll post up some pictures during the modification.

I ordered the deluxe stipple kit and will probably do a large waffle along with a finger hump removal on some Gen 3 frames that are super slippery as it is.

[UNM1136]

Bookmarked the website. My G17.4MOS is pretty grippy, but I have G20.3 and a G21.2 that are going to need some stippling.

But I may do my 17 anyway, because I like the contact pads foward of the takedown latch to be textured. And the underside of the trigger guard. And I will likely, at the same time, chop the grip to G19 dimensions.

Thanks again!

pat

[Clusterfrack]

https://youtu.be/tXbpiR4GQz0

I ordered a few kits to try out. I have a lot of Glock frames sitting around that I’m not using.

Anyone use this? It seems right up my Dremel and epoxy alley!

But I love the hump… it fits my hand so well.

[JCN]

But I love the hump… it fits my hand so well.

I’ll mail you mine after I complete my humpectomies… :D

[Trukinjp13]

This is very interesting. The g19 hump does not work very well for me. The g17 is not nearly as bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GearFondler]

All I can speek to is the Stippling Tools which are very good if you are a bit crafty. Here's 3 frames I did myself... I used their border tool for the edges which worked very well and looks almost as good as the guys who actually carve out the lines but with much less time and effort.
My forward thumb ramps don't look great but that's because I was trying to find the best way to do them and had to unfuck them a bit.
Hand grinding the shelfs, undercuts, and mag release are the scariest and most difficult part.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220529/93c21188c7166dbd6cd821cf1bab5e7f.jpg

[GearFondler]

I’ll mail you mine after I complete my humpectomies… :DI believe you'll need an FFL to mail the humps as they are part of the serialized frame.

[JCN]

All I can speek to is the Stippling Tools which are very good if you are a bit crafty. Here's 3 frames I did myself... I used their border tool for the edges which worked very well and looks almost as good as the guys who actually carve out the lines but with much less time and effort.
My forward thumb ramps don't look great but that's because I was trying to find the best way to do them and had to unfuck them a bit.
Hand grinding the shelfs, undercuts, and mag release are the scariest and most difficult part.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220529/93c21188c7166dbd6cd821cf1bab5e7f.jpg

Those look great! Good job!


I believe you'll need an FFL to mail the humps as they are part of the serialized frame.

There’s probably a slippery slope there. We all don’t keep the Dremel dust from grinding the frame… there has to be some functional definition of what constitutes the frame proper versus clippings and trimmings.

[GearFondler]

Those look great! Good job!


There’s probably a slippery slope there. We all don’t keep the Dremel dust from grinding the frame… there has to be some functional definition of what constitutes the frame proper versus clippings and trimmings.

Thank you! And I was totally being facetious but you never know these days, lol, roll my eyes, barf.

[JCN]

Thank you! And I was totally being facetious but you never know these days, lol, roll my eyes, barf.

Whew! Thanks for the clarification, I totally bought it hahaha

[JCN]

My order says it’ll be here late this week.

I might experiment with grip chop and build up to see if I can replicate the CZ index on a Glock.

I’m thinking that chopping the hump and building up the top of the backstrap would get me there.

[littlejerry]

My order says it’ll be here late this week.

I might experiment with grip chop and build up to see if I can replicate the CZ index on a Glock.

I’m thinking that chopping the hump and building up the top of the backstrap would get me there.

I'm right there with you. A P01 grip on a G19 would be pretty epic

[Tensaw]

Wow! I had forgotten about this outfit. Lots of new (to me) stuff they have added. This is quite the rabbit-hole I could fall down. Thanks?

[JCN]

I'm right there with you. A P01 grip on a G19 would be pretty epic

For me, it’s the issue that I’m on a 357 Sig kick again and there just aren’t a lot of options for plastic guns except for Glock.

I could be perfectly happy with 9mm plastic CZs, but currently Glock rules for versatility and aftermarket support.

[pastaslinger]

When I get mine, I’ll post up some pictures during the modification.

I ordered the deluxe stipple kit and will probably do a large waffle along with a finger hump removal on some Gen 3 frames that are super slippery as it is.

I have had an OTD stippling kit for years and I would recommend the wagon wheel (extremely aggressive) or X tip (medium HK USP type aggressive to extremely aggressive depending on use). The large waffle ends up pretty ugly in my opinion, while the wagon wheel and x tip look good in both organized and random patterns.

The OTD stippling kit is the most cost effective firearm specific tool set I have gotten. Instead of paying thousands to have things stippled, I paid <$100, and couldn't be happier.

[GearFondler]

I have had an OTD stippling kit for years and I would recommend the wagon wheel (extremely aggressive) or X tip (medium HK USP type aggressive to extremely aggressive depending on use). The large waffle ends up pretty ugly in my opinion, while the wagon wheel and x tip look good in both organized and random patterns.

The OTD stippling kit is the most cost effective firearm specific tool set I have gotten. Instead of paying thousands to have things stippled, I paid <$100, and couldn't be happier.The pistols I showed up above were done with those two tips... X tip for the borders and wagon wheel to fill it all in.

[JCN]

89665

[LittleLebowski]

I’ll mail you mine after I complete my humpectomies… :D

What would be the title of a doctor that specializes in such?

[JCN]

What would be the title of a doctor that specializes in such?

“Doctor” :D

Specialty might be pimple popper, lol.

Depends on what the hump was made of. 🤣

[Tensaw]

What would be the title of a doctor that specializes in such?

Humpologist?

[JCN]

Humpologist?

That would probably be for the medical specialty that studies humps. :D

That then charge you $$$ to tell you that you have to go somewhere else for the humpectomy….

[awp_101]

What would be the title of a doctor that specializes in such?

They call me him Dr Love…

89671

[JCN]

One thing I didn’t see that I was wondering about was whether I could use the M backstrap and also the jig or else the thumb web position would be inconsistent for me between generations.

89687

89688

Looks like a yes.

I’ll glue the part of remaining strap in place.

[JCN]

Dry fire presentations, the dot is spot on using my CZ index.

Cut Gen 4 frame with M backstrap I’ll have to blend.

89694

Some pictures of cut Gen 3 frame too. .

89691

89693

So far, I LOVE it.

[JCN]

I have had an OTD stippling kit for years and I would recommend the wagon wheel (extremely aggressive) or X tip (medium HK USP type aggressive to extremely aggressive depending on use). The large waffle ends up pretty ugly in my opinion, while the wagon wheel and x tip look good in both organized and random patterns.


The pistols I showed up above were done with those two tips... X tip for the borders and wagon wheel to fill it all in.

Thanks for the tips. After failing with waffle (not enough void area for melted polymer to go), the wagon wheels is a much easier pattern to use.

89696

[GearFondler]

Thanks for the tips. After failing with waffle (not enough void area for melted polymer to go), the wagon wheels is a much easier pattern to use.

89696You will get a better, cleaner pattern if you first grind off the OEM nipples so you are working with a flat surface... That will eliminate the extra plastic oozing around. Just use a drum sander wheel on the Dremel and knock down those nipples... It doesn't have to be pretty or perfect since it all gets covered over.

[GearFondler]

Also rotate the iron a bit each time you use the Wagon Wheel... Like 12:00, 2:00, 11:00, 1:00. Just enough to create a random texture so the lines from each impression don't line up. And don't be afraid to overlap a bit more if you want a truly random effect.
If you look at mine it is very hard to notice one specific "wheel" amongst the chaos.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220602/1f8006534c04eb648e5ab6d105cc8c89.jpg

[GearFondler]

Also, be very careful with the thumb ramp depression area... The frame is Very thin right there and a heavy hand might melt through it.

[JCN]

Also, be very careful with the thumb ramp depression area... The frame is Very thin right there and a heavy hand might melt through it.

Great tips! Thanks!

[JCN]

89721

89722

Will try and shoot today to see where I would like more grip.

I’m doing the Wilson Combat thing where the front and rear backstraps are aggressive but the sides aren’t.

[pastaslinger]

You will get a better, cleaner pattern if you first grind off the OEM nipples so you are working with a flat surface... That will eliminate the extra plastic oozing around. Just use a drum sander wheel on the Dremel and knock down those nipples... It doesn't have to be pretty or perfect since it all gets covered over.

I specifically left the factory texture when I have done mine to have as much polymer as possible on the frame. It honestly doesn't matter much with full size mag glocks, but it makes a big difference for sig p365 frames for example.

[pastaslinger]

89721

89722

Will try and shoot today to see where I would like more grip.

I’m doing the Wilson Combat thing where the front and rear backstraps are aggressive but the sides aren’t.

That looks pretty good! If you're like me, you'll slowly expand the stippled surface over time though haha.

I do all sides uniformly then take a rasp or file to the side contacting me in aiwb. I am pretty happy with this but it does take some uncomfortable carry sessions to figure out where I need to go back and work the texture down.

Also small tip that may not matter much, I take an open flame to the surfaces when I am done to get rid of any strings that might be left and maybe soften any sharp narrow points by melting them down. You don't HAVE to do this, but I have gotten in the habit of it. Obviously don't let the surfaces get to hot, you're just trying to hit the low hanging fruit.

[JCN]

That looks pretty good! If you're like me, you'll slowly expand the stippled surface over time though haha.

I do all sides uniformly then take a rasp or file to the side contacting me in aiwb. I am pretty happy with this but it does take some uncomfortable carry sessions to figure out where I need to go back and work the texture down.

Also small tip that may not matter much, I take an open flame to the surfaces when I am done to get rid of any strings that might be left and maybe soften any sharp narrow points by melting them down. You don't HAVE to do this, but I have gotten in the habit of it. Obviously don't let the surfaces get to hot, you're just trying to hit the low hanging fruit.

Thanks for the tips! I can use my handy dandy brûlée torch to soften! It’s my go-to for remolding kydex. 👍🏼

[vcdgrips]

As someone who has textured a thing or two, I would offer the following:

1.If the texturing is a bit sharp for you hand or inbound side, it can be smoothed out with a 3m brand sanding sponge/pieces of sandpaper. I default to a 150 or finer and just make a few passes at a time. You can always take or material off, it is really difficult to put material back on.

2. Lighting in my work space is bright.

3. Ventilation in my work space is good. If I am doing more than a set or two at a time, I will use a small battery powered camp fan and blow "fumes" past.

4. I texture with a set of 1.5x or 1.75x magnifying eye pro.

5. If the "soldering iron" falls off then bench, do not try and catch it...just like a gun or knife.

6. Generally speaking, go slow, go light with the touch.

7. Various brands/generations of polymer items behave differently. While practicing on OEM AR grips and Magpul mags has value, # 6 has more.


The cost/quality/results of that kit seem to exceed the intersection of quality/value/performance. Certainly relative to the fill a a material only to sand it away techniques and the slowly heat the backstrap and press it in techniques I have seen and/or used in the past.

[Doc_Glock]

This is basic, but I have never been able to identity the G19 “hump”. To me they are the same as a shortened G17 and I have compared them side by side. I simply don’t know what people are talking about saying the G19 and G17 grips differ in any significant way other than length.

Would someone do me a favor and take a shot of a G19 and circle the “hump?” I feel stupid asking but have even Google searched for it in the past and can’t seem to understand.
JCN you sure go in for the arts and crafts! I’m glad it is fun for you. I definitely would never have the patience.

[JCN]

This is basic, but I have never been able to identity the G19 “hump”. To me they are the same as a shortened G17 and I have compared them side by side. I simply don’t know what people are talking about saying the G19 and G17 grips differ in any significant way other than length.

Would someone do me a favor and take a shot of a G19 and circle the “hump?” I feel stupid asking but have even Google searched for it in the past and can’t seem to understand.
JCN you sure go in for the arts and crafts! I’m glad it is fun for you. I definitely would never have the patience.

Courtesy of handgun hero overlay.

89791

89792

And the “hump” is everything left of the blue line…

89793

If you were comparing to a 1911 flat backstrap.

It gets more nuanced when comparing to a CZ that has some contour.

Regarding arts and crafts it usually falls into two camps for me:

Either it’s something that isn’t commercially available (like bullets out front MPX mag pouch) or something that would take a while and unsure of attention to detail (like frame drilling my Czechmates).

In this case, my MR920 doesn’t quite match up to my CZ index so I didn’t think the DR920 would either. So in order to get 357 Sig in 4.5”+ barrels with a CZ index, this was my solution with what firearms I already owned.

Figuring that if the index wasn’t right I could build up with polymer and epoxy until it was.

[Doc_Glock]

JCN thanks for that. I see a Glock hump, but I don’t see how the 19 is any worse than the 17 which I think is often the complaint. In fact it seems the 17 seems worse. Maybe people don’t like the 19 because it lacks the hump.

[GearFondler]

JCN thanks for that. I see a Glock hump, but I don’t see how the 19 is any worse than the 17 which I think is often the complaint. In fact it seems the 17 seems worse. Maybe people don’t like the 19 because it lacks the hump.I think it's less about the amount of hump and more about its position... The 19 is a shorter grip so the hump is further up into one's grip, as in there is less space between the hump and the beavertail when compared to a 17. That in my opinion is what makes the two grips feel so different and for me I vastly prefer the 19 to the 17 because the 19's hump fits my hand better. But every hand is unique.

[Paul D]

What would be the title of a doctor that specializes in such?

Plastics and Reconstructive Surgery

[Doc_Glock]

I think it's less about the amount of hump and more about its position... The 19 is a shorter grip so the hump is further up into one's grip, as in there is less space between the hump and the beavertail when compared to a 17. That in my opinion is what makes the two grips feel so different and for me I vastly prefer the 19 to the 17 because the 19's hump fits my hand better. But every hand is unique.

Okay that explains things nicely. Thank you.

[GearFondler]

Any follow up thoughts on this project JCN?

I'm curious how you feel about the changes. Is the angle different now, as in does it present better for you?
I have the Grip Force Adapter on my 19.3's and to my eye it seems like it should accomplish the same thing as this kit except for not reducing the grip size. The GFA fills in the gap above the hump while this kit removes the hump but both seem to end up with a flat backstrap that I assume would point the same as each other.
My only issue with this kit is it eliminates the ability to attach magwells which I desire for pinky finger support (and looking tacti-cool).

[JCN]

Any follow up thoughts on this project JCN?

I'm curious how you feel about the changes. Is the angle different now, as in does it present better for you?
I have the Grip Force Adapter on my 19.3's and to my eye it seems like it should accomplish the same thing as this kit except for not reducing the grip size. The GFA fills in the gap above the hump while this kit removes the hump but both seem to end up with a flat backstrap that I assume would point the same as each other.
My only issue with this kit is it eliminates the ability to attach magwells which I desire for pinky finger support (and looking tacti-cool).

It makes a huge difference in index for me. I have most of my recent handgun index time on CZs and P365s which with dots present similarly.

Glocks present high for me, I could work around it but I don’t want to retrain.

MR920 with a smaller backstrap helps, but this works even better.

I think Grip Force is a very reasonable alternative.

My reasoning for avoiding it was:

1. On a Gen 3 you’re adding grip distance which makes it like an L trigger reach.
2. I want the highest thumb web grip I can get for recoil control. I don’t like the Glock add on beaver tails for that reason and I figure the Grip Force would also push the strong hand down a few millimeters off the slide too.

Other things that I would work around would be attachment (I would E6000 or epoxy it in place) and / or blend it into the backstrap.

Regarding magwell, I haven’t looked but I was thinking about heat gunning the polymer at the factory magwell to flare it (after learning how soft it can get when stippling).

But epoxying a slim magwell to the frame would also be reasonable. Could also add back the bottom of the cut hump back to fit a factory well.

[GearFondler]

It makes a huge difference in index for me. I have most of my recent handgun index time on CZs and P365s which with dots present similarly.

Glocks present high for me, I could work around it but I don’t want to retrain.

MR920 with a smaller backstrap helps, but this works even better.

I think Grip Force is a very reasonable alternative.

My reasoning for avoiding it was:

1. On a Gen 3 you’re adding grip distance which makes it like an L trigger reach.
2. I want the highest thumb web grip I can get for recoil control. I don’t like the Glock add on beaver tails for that reason and I figure the Grip Force would also push the strong hand down a few millimeters off the slide too.

Other things that I would work around would be attachment (I would E6000 or epoxy it in place) and / or blend it into the backstrap.

Regarding magwell, I haven’t looked but I was thinking about heat gunning the polymer at the factory magwell to flare it (after learning how soft it can get when stippling).

But epoxying a slim magwell to the frame would also be reasonable. Could also add back the bottom of the cut hump back to fit a factory well.The GFA definitely lowers the grip a smidgen but it also saves me from slide bite so it's an acceptable trade off to me. The slightly longer trigger reach is not an issue for me.
I'd glue and blend it but I was worried about the trigger housing pin and ending up with it getting stuck or unable to re-install it... I'm skeered.

[JCN]

The GFA definitely lowers the grip a smidgen but it also saves me from slide bite so it's an acceptable trade off to me. The slightly longer trigger reach is not an issue for me.
I'd glue and blend it but I was worried about the trigger housing pin and ending up with it getting stuck or unable to re-install it... I'm skeered.

Slide bite has never been an issue for me so I go for the high grip.

I used my brûlée torch just now and made my Gen 4 into a flared like Gen 5+ magwell.

Flared on right of screen, stock on left.

90062

Whole thing flared.

90063

90064

[GearFondler]

Slide bite has never been an issue for me so I go for the high grip.

I used my brûlée torch just now and made my Gen 4 into a flared like Gen 5+ magwell.

Flared on right of screen, stock on left.

90062

Whole thing flared.

90063

90064You're a madman and I love it, lol!
Nicely done!