Beretta 1301 Modification & Reference

[TCinVA]

We have a thread on the Beretta 1301 Tactical that now numbers in the hundreds of pages. On the one hand it's great that there is a lot of discussion about the 1301, but on the other if you are looking for advice on a particular modification finding anything in that thread is hopeless. So this will hopefully serve as a reference for the kind of modifications that are out there. If you have any questions about a specific modification listed here, feel free to start a thread about that specific item to generate discussion on it.

The 1301T Itself: Generations

There are essentially two generations of Beretta 1301T out there. The first generation guns are most easily recognized by their bolt release:

83070

Early on folks noticed a potential problem with these releases: Pressing on the rear of the release allowed shells to eject from the magazine. This is a desirable feature on a sporting gun as it allows for quickly unloading the magazine. On a defensive gun, however, bumping the wrong part of the release could result in two shells wedged on the lifter locking the gun up and requiring remedial action to fix. Tau Development Group and Aridus Industries released fixes for this. Beretta themselves (https://www.beretta.com/en-us/gun-accessories/shotguns/kits-parts/beretta-1301-bolt-shroud-kit/) has a polymer collar you can install on Gen1 guns that prevents that set of circumstances. All of the Gen 1 1301T shotguns came with fixed cylinder bore barrels and a polymer rail affixed on top of the gun.

A couple of years ago Beretta introduced a second generation of the 1301T. There are a number of subtle changes to the receiver that you likely wouldn't spot unless you put a Gen 1 gun right next to a Gen 2 gun. The easiest way to identify a Gen 2 gun is through the bolt release:

83071

You can see that the entire release lever has been redesigned to include a recessed area at the back of the lever that prevents it from being pressed to release shells from the magazine tube. It has a tendency to stick out from the receiver a little more than the Gen 1 latch which can make emergency loading slightly more challenging, but training will handle that.

The Gen 2 1301T can be had with a fixed cylinder choke barrel or with a barrel that allows use of Beretta's screw-in chokes. While the ability to change chokes is nice to have, it is not strictly necessary on a defensive shotgun. Cylinder bore barrels are just fine for our typical use case. The ability to change chokes does allow a little more flexibility in the use of the gun if you find that desirable. On the second generation guns, Beretta also began installing an aluminum rail on top of the receivers in front of the LPA-manufactured rear sight.

Stock:

The 1301T comes from the factory with a nice stock that has a 13" Length of Pull. They can also be had from the factory with a Mesa Urbino (https://www.mesatactical.com/products/urbino-pistol-grip-stock-for-beretta-1301-riser-limbsaver-12-ga-black.html) pistol-gripped stock installed. Personally I'm not a fan of pistol gripped stocks on shotguns in general or the Mesa Urbino on the 1301 in particular, but some people seem to enjoy them.

If one wants to replace the stock on the 1301 my personal opinion is that you are best served by installing a Magpul SGA stock on the gun using an adapter from Aridus Industries (https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/asa-1301-stock-adapter/). Both of my 1301 shotguns have Aridus stock adapters installed on them. The end result is the shortest length of pull you can get on the 1301 and it makes the overall length of the 1301T very close to that of an NFA controlled short barreled shotgun.

83072

GG&G (https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-stock-adapters.html) recently released a similar adapter for the 1301 but I've never seen one in the flesh so I can't vouch for it. I can tell you that the Aridus unit works splendidly and was the first to the market.


Optics:

The 1301T comes from the factory with a rail on top of the receiver. This can be used to mount an optic, but in general it is not the preferred option because it forces the optic to sit just a tad too high. With the height of the factory stock's comb, an optic mounted on the factory rail will require lifting the head slightly to see through the optic. Given the importance of a reliable and repeatable cheek weld in the use of the defensive shotgun, that seemingly insignificant difference can be a real concern. Using the factory rail also generally precludes having any sort of co-witness with the iron sights included on the gun.

Aridus Industries offers their Co-witness Ready Optics Mount (https://www.aridusindustries.com/product-category/crom/) to solve this issue. It drops the height of the optic low enough so that the optic lands in the focal plane of the eye when the gun is mounted. It also includes a rear sight that you can adjust for a precise co-witness. I personally use their "Haught Mod" rear sight named after instructor Rob Haught of Symtac Training (https://sym-tac.com/). This cuts the rear ghost ring aperture in half leaving a big U notch that can still be used with precision while giving a less cluttered sight picture.

83075

The CROM can be had to fit Aimpoint Micro pattern optics and Trijicon RMR pattern optics.


Light Mounts:

Defensive long guns should probably have a light affixed to them. One of the most frequent questions seen about the 1301 is how folks are mounting lights. There are many different ways to get at it.

One of the simplest, and one I use on my own 1301 shotguns, is installation of the Streamlight 870 Mount (https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013275024). This mount is held on the gun by the magazine cap or the magazine extension. It gives just enough rail space to mount something like an X300 in a useful position that is far forward enough to prevent impact to the hand when shooting, but still reachable enough for effective activation:

83079

It can also be used in combination with other light mounts to allow use of a typical carry style flashlight:

83080

The Streamlight mount is cheap and effective.

Changing out the fore-end for the Aridus Handguard Assembly (https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/1301hga-blk/) is probably the most popular light-related modification to the 1301. It gives you a couple of MLOK rail slots at the front of the handguard that are useful for mounting lights using any number of MLOK compatible mounting options on the market. Lots of folks mount lights and tape switches on their guns to suit their particular preferences.

Late in 2020 Briley introduced an MLOK handguard (https://www.briley.com/p-64587-briley-3gun-m-lok-handguard-beretta-1301-comp-and-tactical-a400-xtreme.aspx)which provides a lot of flexibility in mounting things to the front of the gun, but at an eye-watering high price. I have one and it works fine, but it was a lot cheaper when I bought mine. I only have it on one gun if that tells you anything...

It is also possible to get sections of rail attached to magazine tube extensions/clamps manufactured by Nordic (https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-tactical-mxt-extension-kit/) and Briley (https://www.briley.com/p-52255-briley-shotgun-magazine-extension-with-picatinny-rail-12-gauge-fits-beretta-auto-benelli-pump-franchi-912-variomax-stoeger.aspx) to get the light mounted farther forward if you prefer that approach.


Magazine Extensions:

Here again see Nordic (https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-tactical-mxt-extension-kit/) and Briley (https://www.briley.com/p-52255-briley-shotgun-magazine-extension-with-picatinny-rail-12-gauge-fits-beretta-auto-benelli-pump-franchi-912-variomax-stoeger.aspx).


Sights:

The 1301T uses the same LPA manufactured sights as the Benelli M4, only the 1301 uses a polymer rear sight instead of the Benelli's steel rear sight. This means that any of the Benelli M4 sight options on the market should work for the 1301T as well. The only modification that seems remotely common on the sights is replacing the factory front sight with something more visible or friendly for low light use.

You can get night sight inserts from Meprolight or Trijicon for the M4. It's also possible to just get the front tritium sight for the M4 that will work just fine in the Beretta 1301T.

My preference is for the Blitzkrieg front sight (https://www.blitzkriegcomponents.com/benelli-shotgun-sight-posts.html):

83084

It's highly visible and the pronounced point on the front sight works extremely well for slugs at distance. It works beautifully with the Haught Mod CROM as well.


Side Saddles:

My preference for putting a side saddle on my 1301T shotguns is to use the loop section of industrial strength Velcro (https://www.amazon.com/industrial-strength-velcro/s?k=industrial+strength+velcro) on the side of the receiver paired with shell cards sold by Vang Comp. (https://www.vangcomp.com/product/spare-carrier-for-the-vcs-detachable-side-ammunition-carrier/)

83085 83086

These cards are the best on the market by a wide margin. I can break most of the elastic style shell cards on the market inside of an hour of dryfire. It took me years of constant use to wear out my first Vang Comp shell card. In addition, they offer the fastest emergency reload available from a side saddle. On a 1301T with the right technique I can reload the empty chamber in 1.3-1.5 seconds using the Vang card. The Vang cards hold the shells securely enough to allow carrying shells rim-down in the card.

If you prefer something more secure than velcro attachment, Aridus Industries has their excellent QDC option (https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/universal-quick-detach-carrier/):

83087

The Aridus is probably the most bomb-proof side saddle option on the market. It holds shells securely and securely to the gun (a plus over velcro systems if you are pulling a gun out of a cruiser) and they also allow you to rapidly change what's on the side saddle should you need more ammo in a class setting or want to swap the type of spare ammo staged on the gun in other circumstances. It even allows for some unique loading options:


https://youtu.be/_YvUlfIOPrM


Magazine Followers:

Replacing the factory magazine follower seems like a logical modification for the 1301. It's a really good idea to replace the magazine follower on a typical Remington 870, but unfortunately it's not a great idea on the 1301.

Every aftermarket magazine follower I've tried or seen in class on the 1301 has eventually resulted in a problem. If you have the original factory 5 shot magazine and use a magazine tube extension, the aftermarket followers will eventually hang up on the transition between the tube extension and the factory magazine tube. This causes a complete loss of spring tension on the shells in the tube and stops the gun from working. Sometimes a good smack will free it, but often you have to take the gun apart to get it working again...where it will eventually hang up yet again.

I've also seen non-factory followers get pushed past the shell stop and puked into the action where it will shut the gun down hard until it is disassembled as the lifter is trapped in the down position by the spring and follower. Pushing it back in while holding the shell release latch just right might work to get the gun running again, but you'll need two people to accomplish that task most likely.

Hopefully Aridus Industries will bless the market with a reliable follower for the 1301, but until that's a reality I'd just advise sticking with the factory follower.

If you bought an LTT 1301 that has a Nordic follower installed, you should have the factory part in your case and I'd recommend putting that back in the gun.


This post is intended as a quick reference for popular 1301 modifications so those looking for somewhere to start can easily find some options. It is not comprehensive, but hopefully gives some guidance and reasoning to begin deciding what you want to do with your gun. It is subject to revision and and addition.

[ScotchMan]

Outstanding, thank you for putting all of this info in one place!

[destruya]

Yeah, even *I* didn't know about the Blitzkrieg front sight replacement and just placed an order for one.

[testudo]

Something else that can be done to shorten a SGA stock is to replace the SGA buttpad with a buttpad from a X-22 stock. You'll have to call Magpul directly to order this part. Below is the item number. Note, the texture of the X-22 buttpad is firmer and less tacky.

225-0243 BUTTPAD, X-22 STOCK

Here is where I learned about it (I also think e_stern mentioned this mod in the massive 1301 thread): https://youtu.be/4mBAnff1lRw

[Super77]

Amazing tutorial, THANK YOU!

[TCinVA]

Something else that can be done to shorten a SGA stock is to replace the SGA buttpad with a buttpad from a X-22 stock. You'll have to call Magpul directly to order this part. Below is the item number. Note, the texture of the X-22 buttpad is firmer and less tacky.

225-0243 BUTTPAD, X-22 STOCK

Here is where I learned about it (I also think e_stern mentioned this mod in the massive 1301 thread): https://youtu.be/4mBAnff1lRw

I was aware of the possibility of that swap, but I was told repeatedly that MagPul would absolutely not sell those butt pads. Including by people high up at Magpul. If they're actually selling them now, that would be lovely.

[Centerfire]

It might be worth including the Beretta Pro lifter and one piece Titanium charging handle. I sourced both from the UK.

Pro Lifter:
https://magload.co.uk/product/beretta-semi-auto-lifter-lifter-hold-down/

One Piece Titanium Charging Handle:
https://www.customguns.co.uk/product-page/big-bolt-release-handle

[testudo]

I was aware of the possibility of that swap, but I was told repeatedly that MagPul would absolutely not sell those butt pads. Including by people high up at Magpul. If they're actually selling them now, that would be lovely.

Someone in the YouTube comments mentioned they ran into this issue.

I was able to order a couple of them when I called.

[HeavyDuty]

Does anyone know what size wrench is used for the front sight retaining nut?

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

Does anyone know what size wrench is used for the front sight retaining nut?

IIRC it was mentioned earlier to be 5mm?

[TCinVA]

Does anyone know what size wrench is used for the front sight retaining nut?

5.5mm, and I strongly suggest getting a thin midget wrench instead of going with the typical bicycle style wrench you usually find in that size.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09927Q75J/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_5BA2AED20H0110T03KWC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FB2XDXF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_X2W229RQ72R18T4JC89W

I have what I believe is that bottom set marked with the Gear Wrench brand name and having done installs with the 5.5mm wrench in that set vs. the typical option, there is absolutely no comparison. Buy the midget wrench set and make your life easier.

Note that any old 5.5mm wrench won't cut it, as standard wrenches are too thick to fit under the front sight base to get at the locking nut holding the sight on. The roughly 2mm width of the wrenches linked allows you to get on the nut easily. Anything thicker than that and life will suck.

[HeavyDuty]

5.5mm, and I strongly suggest getting a thin midget wrench instead of going with the typical bicycle style wrench you usually find in that size.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FB2XDXF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_X2W229RQ72R18T4JC89W

I have that set marked with the Gear Wrench brand name and having done installs with the 5.5mm wrench in that set vs. the typical option, there is absolutely no comparison. Buy the midget wrench set and make your life easier.

Note that any old 5.5mm wrench won't cut it, as standard wrenches are too thick to fit under the front sight base to get at the locking nut holding the sight on.

Perfect - ordered. Thank you!

[mmc45414]

Does anyone know what size wrench is used for the front sight retaining nut?
I am old enough to have bought a Craftsman tool set that included a set of "ignition wrenches", from way back when ignition systems were mechanical devices. There was a size in there that was close enough.

ETA: Exactly as was linked, one of the inch sizes did work.

[Paul Blackburn]

It might be worth including the Beretta Pro lifter and one piece Titanium charging handle. I sourced both from the UK.

Pro Lifter:
https://magload.co.uk/product/beretta-semi-auto-lifter-lifter-hold-down/

One Piece Titanium Charging Handle:
https://www.customguns.co.uk/product-page/big-bolt-release-handle

Any significant advantage/disadvantage to the pro lifter? Does it change any of the standard functions?

[Centerfire]

Any significant advantage/disadvantage to the pro lifter? Does it change any of the standard functions?

The Pro lifter stays in the up position so you don't have to push it up while loading. The gate is less likely to catch your fingers and is faster.

Ghost loading is more difficult but still possible.

[ScotchMan]

Does anyone know if the Nordic barrel clamp fits the guns with factory mag extensions?

https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-tactical-barrel-clamp-picatinny-rail/

Also, if anyone was eyeing the factory barrel clamp and wondering if that's an MLOK slot on it, well, its the exact dimensions of an MLOK slot, and it's kinda where you would WANT an MLOK slot, but it doesn't have the channel cut out inside to keep the retaining piece in place while you tighten the screws on an MLOK accessory. Sometimes, Beretta...:rolleyes:

https://www.beretta.com/en-us/assets/12/7/1301_Tactical1.jpg

[ScotchMan]

TCinVA is the Streamlight 870 mount supposed to be held on by anything other than the pressure from the mag extension? I put one on my GenII with factory extension (pictured exactly in previous post), the magazine cap previously used a detent like most shotguns that keeps it on tight, but with the Streamlight mount its just holding on by pressure now. And since I can't get a lot of torque on the extension cover, if I try hard I can twist the mount around. I am not sure it or the cap is going to stay on during recoil. Have you had any experience with this, or does it fit better on the 5 round guns without the extension (or with the Nordic extensions)?

As an alternative data point, this part from GG&G works far better on my setup: https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-shotgun-flashlight-mount.html. It includes a detent that interfaces with the mag cover, and is so far tighter and more stable, and it also sits closer to the side of the gun while the Streamlight mount had the light sitting an inch or more off the gun. It's also metal instead of polymer.

Might want to add that as an option in the first post, at least for folks with the guns with factory mag extensions.

[Oceanbob]

Does anyone know if the Nordic barrel clamp fits the guns with factory mag extensions?

https://nordiccomp.com/categories/beretta-1301-tactical-barrel-clamp-picatinny-rail/

Also, if anyone was eyeing the factory barrel clamp and wondering if that's an MLOK slot on it, well, its the exact dimensions of an MLOK slot, and it's kinda where you would WANT an MLOK slot, but it doesn't have the channel cut out inside to keep the retaining piece in place while you tighten the screws on an MLOK accessory. Sometimes, Beretta...:rolleyes:

https://www.beretta.com/en-us/assets/12/7/1301_Tactical1.jpg

No. I have both set ups and the Nordic clamp won’t fit on the factory extension model. Close, but no.
I decided NOT to use my Nordic Clamp and NOT to use the newer clamp on the 7 round factory tube model.
The machine screws on the factory long tube clamp are weak and probably number 6. People are complaining that with a light etc on a modified clamp (that m slot is a joke and has to be drilled) the clamp was coming loose after 50 rounds. You really DON’T need the clamp
other than a place for use a forward sling on the Sling QD that works but a better option is too leave it off and buy a. GG&G combo sling mount left side and picitiny rail right side that FITS UNDER THE MAGAZINE NUT and as a bonus it bumps that magazine Space longer for getting shell number 7 in the tube. On the Nordic clamp all it does is scratch the barrel. You just don’t need these clamps. Look at Aridus Facebook Page and see the line up of 1301s that were stacked for a lunch break during a match and none of them have those forward clamps. Bob

[ScotchMan]

No. I have both set ups and the Nordic clamp won’t fit on the factory extension model. Close, but no.
I decided NOT to use my Nordic Clamp and NOT to use the newer clamp on the 7 round factory tube model.
The machine screws on the factory long tube clamp are weak and probably number 6. People are complaining that with a light etc on a modified clamp (that m slot is a joke and has to be drilled) the clamp was coming loose after 50 rounds. You really DON’T need the clamp
other than a place for use a forward sling on the Sling QD that works but a better option is too leave it off and buy a. GG&G combo sling mount left side and picitiny rail right side that FITS UNDER THE MAGAZINE NUT and as a bonus it bumps that magazine Space longer for getting shell number 7 in the tube. On the Nordic clamp all it does is scratch the barrel. You just don’t need these clamps. Look at Aridus Facebook Page and see the line up of 1301s that were stacked for a lunch break during a match and none of them have those forward clamps. Bob

Yeah I dropped my factory clamp already, unneeded weight since the factory extension is one piece (and I'm dubious whether clamps are needed for two piece extensions anyway). And yeah I agree the Beretta clamp looks cheap and I think is only there for the sling mount.

I was only asking about the Nordic because I've been fighting to find a cost-effective way to get a light on the thing, but I am quite happy with the GG&G option (pending test fire).

I also dropped the rear sight assembly, more unnecessary weight, since I can get combat-accurate hits using my optic as a large ghost ring with my front sight. POI seems to be about 2 inches above POA using that method at 10 yards. Cleans up my optic's sight picture too.

[TCinVA]

@TCinVA (https://pistol-forum.com/member.php?u=4) is the Streamlight 870 mount supposed to be held on by anything other than the pressure from the mag extension?

No. It's held on there by the mag cap or an extension.

The magazine cap/magazine tube normally loosens up when shot. During the course of a class (usually 100-250 rounds) it's normal to have to tighten down a mag cap/tube. That being said, with the Nordic extension on my gun I've not had the need to tighten the mag tube in the middle of a session. I just cinch it down where it won't easily tighten any more and it stays put very well. You don't want to apply a lot of torque to the magazine tube.

[lurkmode]

new 1301 Tac owner and want to say thanks for starting this thread. Im reading terrible thing on the new oem clamp (Mlok/QD) by Beretta. Would you recommend just tossing it right off the bat?

[Rocketman]

I was aware of the possibility of that swap, but I was told repeatedly that MagPul would absolutely not sell those butt pads. Including by people high up at Magpul. If they're actually selling them now, that would be lovely.

I just called and ordered one. It was shipped out the next day. I should have it soon knock wood

[TCinVA]

new 1301 Tac owner and want to say thanks for starting this thread. Im reading terrible thing on the new oem clamp (Mlok/QD) by Beretta. Would you recommend just tossing it right off the bat?

That's hard to say. I don't keep a mag tube clamp on my guns because I find that it just complicates disassembly of the gun, and I tend to take my guns apart fairly often so I can lubricate them and I tend to clean the magazine tube frequently. I haven't spent enough time on the new guns to know if that magazine clamp is necessary to hold the tube cover in place during shooting or not.

If you find that the clamp is just getting in the way of disassembling the gun, ditch it. If you find that it's necessary for holding the cap on, maybe keep it.

I will say that given what I've seen so far, my preference is still for installing my own magazine tube on a gun with a normal tube length. The new full-length mag tube isn't bad, but the way they dealt with the cover and the clamp seems...sub-optimal...to me.

[mmc45414]

If you find that the clamp is just getting in the way of disassembling the gun, ditch it. If you find that it's necessary for holding the cap on, maybe keep it.
Maybe a way to think about it is that nothing catastrophic is going to happen. If you take one off and it loosens too often then maybe put it back on. I cannot see how the new one would be different from the old one in that respect, though I have not shot mine much since I took it off. But I didn't realize how ugly it was until I did. :cool:


The new full-length mag tube isn't bad, but the way they dealt with the cover and the clamp seems...sub-optimal...to me.
It would be nice if we could get replacement cap/sleeves to experiment with. I was wondering about cutting the end off of mine and putting a Nordic +1 on to bring it up to 8+1 for TacOps division capacity for three gun. But I didn't want to start that unless I had a spare part, but then I got a 1301C so I have chilled out on that plan, but might revisit someday.

[GHZ71]

One of the simplest, and one I use on my own 1301 shotguns, is installation of the Streamlight 870 Mount

After looking at this mount I couldn't help but wonder what you did about the detent pin? I've noticed on the GG&G mount they have a hole/locator. The Streamlight was interesting since it appears to have rotational options?

[TCinVA]

After looking at this mount I couldn't help but wonder what you did about the detent pin?


Nothing. It stays compressed by the Streamlight mount. With either the Nordic extension or the factory magazine cap I didn't experience any loosening issues as a result of the detent pin being essentially neutered by the Streamlight mount. I tighten either the mag extension or the cap finger tight and it stays there through a day of shooting with no problems on my guns.



I've noticed on the GG&G mount they have a hole/locator. The Streamlight was interesting since it appears to have rotational options?

The Streamlight can be set up at 3, 6, or 9:00. The G&G options available at that time were limited to one particular orientation. I tend to favor 3:00 because I'm right handed so I've not used the other positions...but the Streamlight mount was still cheaper and works splendidly so I stuck with that.

[destruya]

New optic mount on the block: https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount

[mmc45414]

New optic mount on the block: https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount

Thanks, including for the MRO and an option for the 1301C, both things I am curious about.

[mmc45414]

Pretty sure this is all you would need if you wanted to retrofit a new style 7+1 tube for a 5+Whatever tube that could be expanded in the traditional manner, including barrel clamps and such:
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/C59948

I had been thinking about doing this in order to use my +4 Nordic, so I would be at 9+1 division capacity for three gun, but since I got a 1301C I did that there. I do sorta like the svelte and simple look (and potentially feel) of the 5+1 guns, so I might get one to experiment with, but at this point I am trying to slow my roll on things that I do not need but am curious about.

[Pnut]

I think you’d need the Beretta 7 round extension cover too.

[mmc45414]

I think you’d need the Beretta 7 round extension cover too.
No, but I should have said you would need some kind of nut/tube, I was thinking the cute little Nordic +1 (that has a QD in the end of it...) might be an interesting setup, for a wannabe gun hipster snowflake kinda guy (like me, hahah...) :cool:

ETA:
https://nordiccomp.com/categories/new-nc-mxt-shotgun-extension-complete-assembly-12ga/

ETA: I goofed, this is the one with the QD:
https://nordiccomp.com/categories/mxt-plug-cap/

[Pnut]

My mistake… I thought you were trying to convert a 5 shot to a 7 shot.

[mmc45414]

My mistake… I thought you were trying to convert a 5 shot to a 7 shot.
No but Yes... :cool:

Since some folks with the new 7+1 voiced that they wish they had the old style 5+2+1 this was the previously out of stock component unlocks that possibility.

[shootist26]

How do you remove the factory 7 round tube from the receiver?

[dogcaller]

This is very helpful, thanks for making the thread. Are people actually able to purchase the CROM and stock adapters, somehow? I gave up some time back, at least 6 months since I looked last—until today. Still out of stock and no emails about availability between then and now…

[tlong17]

This is very helpful, thanks for making the thread. Are people actually able to purchase the CROM and stock adapters, somehow? I gave up some time back, at least 6 months since I looked last—until today. Still out of stock and no emails about availability between then and now…

Regarding the CROM, RMR pattern Haught mod is in stock. If you're looking for a T2 pattern Haught mod I might know a guy...

[Pnut]

How do you remove the factory 7 round tube from the receiver?

I think it’s just threaded into the receiver?!?!

[mmc45414]

How do you remove the factory 7 round tube from the receiver?

I think it’s just threaded into the receiver?!?!
Yes, you would want to grab it somehow to avoid crushing it. With the action working over it they are considered to be a wear item, the video I watched showed drilling a hole through it, lemme see if I can find that.

ETA: Here is one showing doing it on a Benneli:
https://youtu.be/CC6qeueNS9Y

[Pnut]

I think a good strap wrench would work for removal if it’s really stuck in there. I recall reading about drilling a hole and sticking a dowel or punch in it as well. I think they drilled a hole opposite of the hole that captures the mag spring retaining cap. They then inserted a metal rod to use as a T-handle.

[mmc45414]

I think a good strap wrench would work for removal if it’s really stuck in there. I recall reading about drilling a hole and sticking a dowel or punch in it as well. I think they drilled a hole opposite of the hole that captures the mag spring retaining cap. They then inserted a metal rod to use as a T-handle.
I think we watched the same video. I was considering drilling a hole in a block of wood, then sawing the block to create two halves, similar to how they grab a rifle barrel in wood blocks like Larry shows here:
https://youtu.be/H9IehOwCyXU?t=38
But since the magazine tube is coated with something intended to be slippery it might be an additional challenge, I was thinking thin double sided tape. I could tape up the receiver with painters tape to protect it and grab it with a giant crescent wrench I have.

But the tubes are out of stock already, I did another notify me, I might be more in the mood to experiment next time they are restocked.

[Centerfire]

Someone on another forum used a propane torch and burned the tube like a beer can in a campfire.

I have a 5rd tube coming so I guess I'll be the guinea pig. I have a heat gun though.

[Centerfire]

Someone on another forum used a propane torch and burned the tube like a beer can in a campfire.

I have a 5rd tube coming so I guess I'll be the guinea pig. I have a heat gun though.

I got the factory 7rd tube to 240F and was unable to get it out by hand. Knipex Cobras got it out but it is ruined. Oh well, the 5rd tube screwed right in.

[TCinVA]

Original post has been added to cover magazine followers and why I recommend sticking with the factory follower. Everything else available at the moment causes problems.

[GearFondler]

Original post has been added to cover magazine followers and why I recommend sticking with the factory follower. Everything else available at the moment causes problems.Well that really sucks as a new USA-made follower is one of the parts swaps for 922R.

[Paul Blackburn]

Is the OEM follower lacking in some way? Apparently its out performing all the aftermarket versions...

[Dave J]

Is the OEM follower lacking in some way? Apparently its out performing all the aftermarket versions...

The OEM follower functions well, but lacks much visual and tactile difference from a live round, making it more difficult to verify the gun is unloaded. That, and it’s made in Italy, so it doesn’t help the 922r parts count. (not sure if this changed on the new factory extended tube guns)

For comparison, the Vang follower has a large hole in the center that is easy to feel, even in the dark.

[Paul Blackburn]

The OEM follower functions well, but lacks much visual and tactile difference from a live round, making it more difficult to verify the gun is unloaded. That, and it’s made in Italy, so it doesn’t help the 922r parts count. (not sure if this changed on the new factory extended tube guns)

For comparison, the Vang follower has a large hole in the center that is easy to feel, even in the dark.

I just stuck with the OEM follower and drilled a 7/32 hole for the tactile verification. Works fine!

[Paul Blackburn]

I went with the plus one extension to keep the weight down at the end of the barrel.
That gives me 5 rounds of 2 3/4 shells in the tube and the follower only reaches the end of tube while the spring occupies the extension.
With this setup the follower is only traveling within the magazine tube without transitioning into the extension.

89663

[TCinVA]

I went with the plus one extension to keep the weight down at the end of the barrel.
That gives me 5 rounds of 2 3/4 shells in the tube and the follower only reaches the end of tube while the spring occupies the extension.
With this setup the follower is only traveling within the magazine tube without transitioning into the extension.

89663

That should reduce chances of the non-factory follower from biting you. That being said, I encourage testing it thoroughly.

When I want to test the function of a shotgun I will mag dump it a few times to see if I notice anything off in how it's working. It's remarkably effective at highlighting problems.

[Paul Blackburn]

I removed the Vangcomp follower from my 870 and compared it to the 1301 follower. The Vangcomp is noticeably heavier and has deep grooves. Also the 1301 spring does not fit inside the Vancomp follower. This could definitely cause problems especially at the extension transition.

Speaking of the Nordic extension, I borescope the transition area and its looks to me like if a problem is going occur with the follower it would only happen when the spring and follower are compressed into the extension, the sticking point would be the transition area back into the magazine tube as the spring decompresses.

As for the OEM 1301 follower I enlarged the center hole with a 1/4 drill bit for better tactile verification.

[Paul D]

For those of you who bought the Nordic Component +2 mag extension, what length did you cut down the 48 inches spring that came with the kit down to? The factor 5 rd spring was 30 inches long. My first instinct was to shove all 48 inches into the hole (phrasing).

[TCinVA]

I went down to whatever length would allow me to put seven shells in the tube and still allow the shells to move forward a little.

[mmc45414]

Speaking of the Nordic extension, I borescope the transition area and its looks to me like if a problem is going occur with the follower it would only happen when the spring and follower are compressed into the extension, the sticking point would be the transition area back into the magazine tube as the spring decompresses.
Yup, and this is where a clamp makes it even more probable. I put a longer tube on my 391 for three gun and "tested" it by shooting skeet (loading only two shells...) and when I showed up for three gun and tried to fully load it I couldn't even get the shells IN past the transition. Fortunately this happened when I was preloading and fortunately my buddy had the tool I needed in his kit bag, but learning occurred and I just quit using the clamp (the same tube is over on my 1301C now with no problems).


For those of you who bought the Nordic Component +2 mag extension, what length did you cut down the 48 inches spring that came with the kit down to? The factor 5 rd spring was 30 inches long. My first instinct was to shove all 48 inches into the hole (phrasing).
I think I shoved it all in the first time too (phasing), but their instructions (http://nordiccomp.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/MXT-Instructions.pdf#:~:text=Install%20your%20Nordic%2 0Components%20Modular%20Extension%20Tube%20Barrel, cap%20from%20the%20end%20of%20the%20magazine%20tub e.) indicate starting with 14" (phrasing?):

89931

They also indicate that the tube should be loose to allow the clamp to pull it out of alignment, seems like a good reason not to use the clamps:

89932

[GearFondler]

^^^ If you don't leave the extension a turn loose but instead fully tighten it then the clamp will force the barrel and extension towards each other... The thicker barrel will probably not flex much but I don't think any downward pressure on the barrel like that would be a good thing.
For the life of me I don't understand why they didn't just make the clamp fit correctly with the tube fully tight.

[mmc45414]

For the life of me I don't understand why they didn't just make the clamp fit correctly with the tube fully tight.
I think the clamp is universal, so it is different not only on various barrels, but even depending on placement (the barrels are tapered). In my case I used the clamp with no problem on my 391 with a +3 and a +4, then with a +6 and the clamp farther forward it starting causing problems.

[GearFondler]

I think the clamp is universal, so it is different not only on various barrels, but even depending on placement (the barrels are tapered). In my case I used the clamp with no problem on my 391 with a +3 and a +4, then with a +6 and the clamp farther forward it starting causing problems.That's the thing... They have a separate universal clamp in their catalog and it's not the same as their 1301 clamp. Trust me, I ordered one just to experiment... It's very similar but their 1301 clamp seems to only come with that 1301 kit.

[OlongJohnson]

I thought the reason to leave the extension (not the adapter nut) a half thread or so loose was to accommodate thermal expansion and vibration of the barrel without it being pulled by the magazine tube and screwing with POI.

I found the 1301 clamp fits nicely, but I previously tried the universal clamp on an 870 and it didn't fit: the spacing between barrel and mag tube was wrong. I thought that was pretty lame. If the 870 isn't universal, nothing is.

I might mess with this issue. I would be surprised if there is any problem with chamfering the ID of the mag tube and extension a hair so shells can slide smoothly in either direction.

I've seen lots of instances in the gun world where people put parts together and have an issue, so they decide that combination isn't going to work, where in reality, it may work very well with just a little adjustment.

[mmc45414]

That's the thing... They have a separate universal clamp in their catalog and it's not the same as their 1301 clamp. Trust me, I ordered one just to experiment... It's very similar but their 1301 clamp seems to only come with that 1301 kit.
I believe that is correct, I noticed the same (funky) thing.
I was persistent in using the clamp (I tried Boss, I really tried...) but am now in the camp that says the tube is pretty durable without trying it to the barrel.
Now my setup is a +3 on my 1301C and it peeks out just past the extended choke on a 21" gun, but in three gun they get some abuse and the tube probably takes it better than the barrel, without the clamp.

[Centerfire]

I lock-tite'd the extension together and tossed the clamp in the parts bin.

[Paul Blackburn]

The OEM follower functions well, but lacks much visual and tactile difference from a live round, making it more difficult to verify the gun is unloaded. That, and it’s made in Italy, so it doesn’t help the 922r parts count. (not sure if this changed on the new factory extended tube guns)

For comparison, the Vang follower has a large hole in the center that is easy to feel, even in the dark.
90042

Here is the OEM follower with the center hole enlarged with a 1/4 drill bit.

After being modified it might count as a 922r part? Based on the batfe logic, putting a NFA AR upper on an AR lower makes you a manufacturer.

On the Vangcomp follower, the Beretta magazine spring doesn't fit inside the follower cup.

[mmc45414]

This just hit my inbox:
https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-replacement-magazine-tube-cover.html

95022

[Centerfire]

This just hit my inbox:
https://www.gggaz.com/beretta-1301-replacement-magazine-tube-cover.html

95022

Other than adding weight, what is the benefit? There doesn't appear to be an issue with the durability of the plastic part and GG&G replicated the aesthetics.

[mmc45414]

Other than adding weight, what is the benefit? There doesn't appear to be an issue with the durability of the plastic part and GG&G replicated the aesthetics.Dunno, I just posted it.
Their clamp is probably better, and some people don't like plastic.
Seems like an opportunity to integrate a breaching standoff...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[Centerfire]

Dunno, I just posted it.
Their clamp is probably better, and some people don't like plastic.
Seems like an opportunity to integrate a breaching standoff...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I didn't mean to sound like I was coming at you, apologies.

[mmc45414]

I didn't mean to sound like I was coming at you, apologies.Sorry if I sounded like you sounded like... haha

I think it might be more svelte. I would probably swap if I still had mine, I kept the Comp but sold my Tac to a friend.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[shootist26]

Other than adding weight, what is the benefit? There doesn't appear to be an issue with the durability of the plastic part and GG&G replicated the aesthetics.

I don't think there is any additional benefit other than "it's nicer"

The factory part does look kind of cheap with that giant seam line straight through the middle of in

[Pnut]

One other advantage I see with this setup is if you run a clamp. The factory clamp tends to move around under recoil unless you really tighten it down. The description on this says there is a machined recess that the clamp sits in.

[Oceanbob]

95128The stock factory 7 round clamp is garbage. It slides around and the Mlock feature puts any flashlight out too far IMO.
It does have a QD socket but the #8 machine screws are easy to break and most just remove the clamp because you really don’t need a clamp at all. The resin infused ‘plastic’ cover tube has no issues by itself and is stronger than aluminum. So why change it..?
I don’t want to spend close to $100 for a different cover and I’d never use the clamp they include anyway.
According to Erik Stern after you remove the black plastic spring retainer (which I did to get more room to load 7 rounds) he was able to shoot the heck out of the gun and loosen up that tube (which has about an inch of threading) so to keep the tube from turning I just installed a “Ranger Band” which is just a black extruded wide strong rubber band. Bought a bag from Amazon for $9 bucks.
A clean, uncluttered install that makes the weapon easier to clean.

[Pnut]

Quick question RANGERBOB…. Have you had any problems with the bands and barrel heat? I have no experience with production Ranger Bands. I go cheap and make my own with cut up bike inner tubes.

[TCinVA]

I have now had the chance to run multiple 1301 shotguns with the GG&G stock adapters on them.

Don't put the Remington stock based adapter on your gun. The reason Aridus went with the Mossberg SGA is because the Mossberg more readily fit with the 1301 receiver's dimensions. That allows the adapter to fit in unobtrusively and the stock's wrist angle feels natural. The GG&G Mossberg version isn't quite as nice because it extends the wrist area a little bit more which I find awkward...but fitting the Remington version on there makes it even worse. The end result is a reach to the trigger that is absurdly long. The gun is still usable but every single person who has handled one of my guns back to back has gone "Oh, yeah this is way better."

[mmc45414]

New optic mount on the block: https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount

Thanks, including for the MRO and an option for the 1301C, both things I am curious about.

I just got a pistol setup how I want with an SRO and am probably going to start shooting Open class in three gun. Consequently, I will probably put an optic on my 1301 Comp, but this presents some dilemma, not as much mount support for the Comp.

If these were not discontinued, I would probably go with KE Arms (http://www.kearms.com/1301-comp-h1t1-mount) and use the silver R1 I have currently on my Ruger MK III.

I like the Rusty Nuts option (https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount), and like that I would have the MRO option (I have three of them, like that they are $380), or I could use the R1.

But I am a bit enamored with the 5moa dot in my new SRO, and while I would prefer a closed emitter, I sure like the sight picture of that SRO. And maybe I would wrap it up in the Jagerwerks B.R.O.S. (https://jagerwerks.com/b-r-o-s/) ?

Anyway, this thread has been a big help, anybody know of any 1301 Comp mounts I am overlooking? One that offered the RMR/SRO would be peachy. :cool:

[Dorsai]

I just got a pistol setup how I want with an SRO and am probably going to start shooting Open class in three gun. Consequently, I will probably put an optic on my 1301 Comp, but this presents some dilemma, not as much mount support for the Comp.

If these were not discontinued, I would probably go with KE Arms (http://www.kearms.com/1301-comp-h1t1-mount) and use the silver R1 I have currently on my Ruger MK III.

I like the Rusty Nuts option (https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/beretta-1301-low-profile-optic-mount), and like that I would have the MRO option (I have three of them, like that they are $380), or I could use the R1.

But I am a bit enamored with the 5moa dot in my new SRO, and while I would prefer a closed emitter, I sure like the sight picture of that SRO. And maybe I would wrap it up in the Jagerwerks B.R.O.S. (https://jagerwerks.com/b-r-o-s/) ?

Anyway, this thread has been a big help, anybody know of any 1301 Comp mounts I am overlooking? One that offered the RMR/SRO would be peachy. :cool:

Vang Comp https://www.vangcomp.com/product/vcs-micro-mount

[mmc45414]

Vang Comp https://www.vangcomp.com/product/vcs-micro-mount

That thing would be just perfect, but...
95214

Maybe I should consider some extra holes...

[Paul Blackburn]

Given the latest version of the 1301 Tactical combined with the Aridus upgrades and modifications that are available, is this the pinnacle of the 1301 Tactical?

[Oldherkpilot]

Given the latest version of the 1301 Tactical combined with the Aridus upgrades and modifications that are available, is this the pinnacle of the 1301 Tactical?

I sure hope so--I'm running out of money.😁

[Crow Hunter]

If you want the Comp style hold down lifter (like me) and you have the Tactical version.

You can get them in the US now:

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/ssearch.html?Search=C7C940

I haven't installed the 3" version yet but the Comp version is pretty easy. I have one on order and a Tactical model coming in from Eurooptic here shortly.

If you are like me and have narrow fingers/thumbs and grew up shooting Browning and Mossberg pump shotguns, it is a really nice upgrade.

It also means my wife, who got her finger trapped between the lifter and the receiver on my old Benelli M1 will actually entertain the thought of learning to load and shoot it, maybe.;)

[vandal]

Does the Gen 2 bolt release lever fit on the Gen 1?

[mmc45414]

Does the Gen 2 bolt release lever fit on the Gen 1?

I cannot say for certain, but am pretty certain it would.
Also, there are really only two variations, some fit things like my 391 and the ones that fit the 1301, pretty easy to get the thing out and peek at it.

[GearFondler]

New from Aridus and only $16 for the upgrade.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230826/277ab2264dd01d05005084ab85058aa9.jpg

[TCinVA]

It's nice that Aridus has the buffered fastener assembly out there now.

Mind you, it isn't necessary. The Aridus SGA adapter has been out there on scores of guns with high round counts for a long time without anyone having any issues resulting from it. Before I swapped my factory stocks out to the Aridus SGA setup I asked the people at Beretta who know the most about the 1301 whether or not forgoing the factory buffer would cause any long term reliability or durability issues and the answer was a definitive "No."

So if you want the upgraded buffered fastener assembly, by all means go for it. Just don't feel like it's something you absolutely have to have in your gun.

I won't be changing the setup in my guns. But like J. B. Books once said, you do what your insides tell ya.

On the subject of newer modifications since the origination of this thread, Aridus is now selling a replacement magazine follower:

https://www.aridusindustries.com/products/smrt-aridus-follower/

I tested prototypes of the follower back at the beginning of the year with my gun and some client guns that have had issues with aftermarket followers. After some back and forth to dial it in, the version that's on sale seems to work very well in every gun I've tested or seen it in. So I'll amend my original post to say to stick with the factory Beretta follower, but if you want an upgrade with a more tactile feel to it the Aridus SMRT is the way to go in the 1301.

[jaxman7]

Hey fellas,

Obviously new here. Some of y'all may remember me from M4C. Used to post there all the time. Anyway I have been stalking all the 1301 threads on here and some great info. My main goal were 3 things. 1: have a way ro mount a sling up front. 2: Have a way to mount a light. 3: Have a way to protect my hands from that freaking barrel.

All without using the crappy factory clamp or preferably any clamp at all......that idea changed. I looked at GG&G stuff, Aridus, Briley amd so on. All had their ups and downs to them. The Briley seemed like the perfect option minus the price. Well I bit the bullet and bought one. Immediately after putting it on I hated it. Totally changed the balance of the gun. Loved the MLOK slots. Loved the way it covers the barrel....but the way it changed the way the 1301 handles...nope. Not for me.

Well a couple of weeks ago I ordered the GG&G (I have a Gen 3 1301) replacement aluminium magazine cover. Honestly for nothing more than just I hated the plastic cover. Wanted the Nordic but couldn't find one in stock anywhere. I threw the clamp that came with it in the parts been. Not a fan of clamps on shotguns. So I'm going OCD trying to figure out how I'm going to mount a light (and a way to activate it), sling, and keep my hand from being burned after deciding to ditch the Briley.

Thought about modding the stock handguard and mount some old Unity Tactical stuff I have laying around but, as you know, shotguns are vicious on equipment and I dont want to mount a big Surefire DF light on a mod I made myself on plastic.

Well, I happened to think about another gun I have. Its in the picture below. Remembering I had that old clamp I got from GG&G I began tinkering and came up with whats in the photo. I just flipped the clamp 180 degrees and mounted the SF to it. I do like their magazine cover as it is slotted to keep the clamp from walking and the taper of the SF body will keep the light from walking. Well that's all theory as I just put all this together about an hour ago. As far as the sling goes. I think I am also just going to mimic the Colt and tie some 550 cord to the sling and loop (or use a Blue Force Gear sling loop) it between the clamp and forend or, like the Colt 653 (Gothic Serpent retro build....love that rifle) just loop it through the front site post and QD it to the stock

The cheap heat shield you guys are talking about is very interesting and Im going to try out and hopefully it will solve my other issue. Have any of you who have done that heat shield mod and use the push/pull technique had an issue with the shield walking forward? Anyway I know this was way too long and I apologize. Good info on here and appreciate it!

-Jax

BTW, if anyone wants a brand new Briley handguard. I'll sell it @ a good price.


https://flic.kr/p/2p6rwkF

[jaxman7]

I'm not particularly interested in this but wanted to throw this handguard option out there:

https://mesatactical.com/truckee-forend-for-beretta-1301-12-ga-m-lok/

[jaxman7]

Ferro Concepts padded Slingster with Blue Force Gear loop sling mount.

https://flic.kr/p/2p8vrQo

[Centerfire]

Aftermarket rear sight aperture so you don't have to replace your LPA sight if you want a Haught aperture.

https://rxarms.com/products/beretta-1301-accessories-parts/beretta-1301-rear-sight-half-moon/

[LHS]

Aftermarket rear sight aperture so you don't have to replace your LPA sight if you want a Haught aperture.

https://rxarms.com/products/beretta-1301-accessories-parts/beretta-1301-rear-sight-half-moon/

Well that's pretty cool

[Centerfire]

Well that's pretty cool

I bought a complete new LPA sight so I could have a different aperture. I would have bought this instead if it had been available. This and some new LPA screws would fix most of the complaints with the OEM sight.

[Sal Picante]

Ferro Concepts padded Slingster with Blue Force Gear loop sling mount.

https://flic.kr/p/2p8vrQo

Thank you... I never knew that BFG made a cable adaptor. Just what I needed!

[Pnut]

I’m poor… and cheap, so I thought about machining off the top of the factory rear aperture. This way, I’d keep the dots AND I’d be free.

If I mess it up, I’ll buy one of these!