Jagerwerks G17 Gen5 Slide Milling

[Lunker]

I sent my new-ish GEN5 Glock 17 slide off to be milled this past summer and got it back a few weeks ago. I am finding that the previously 100% reliable gun is now extremely prone to bad feeding. The round makes it halfway into the chamber and the slide stops. It makes me think the slide is not traveling fully to the rear. The weight difference between that stripped milled slide with RMR and my Glock 34 Gen5 is negligible ( .23 ounce). I tried using the Glock 17 slide on my Glock 34 frame and the results were similar. I did find that if I use a death grip and make sure my wrists are locked absolutely solid, that I get 90% functionality. But this gun has never been susceptible to limp-wristing before it was milled. I am at a loss to figure out why this is happening. I’ve had slides milled before through L&M Precision and never any hint of a problem. This is my first time doing it through Jagerwerks. I used them because L&M retired and based on their excellent reputation. I will say their communication is not great. No customer service number and very slow replies to emails. One thing I did notice is that the RMR mounting screw over the extractor rod was not ground down. In the past, it had been shortened to ensure no interference with the extractor. I manually pushed the rod with the RMR mounting screw locked in, and did not see any restriction of movement though.
Any thoughts would be welcome. Thanks.

[guymontag]

If I were you then I’d do a few things:
-Ensure slide is assembled correctly, disassemble and reassemble
-Check again that no mounting screws are interfering with function
-Mark your magazines to eliminate those variables as well
-Try another ammo if possible
-When you switched did you keep the same recoil spring?
-Remove the optic and shoot the G17 slide without it, with screws and without

You had a fully functional firearm that was modified and is no longer functioning as well as it did, and with my knowledge of Glocks I’d be at a loss too (it does remind me of my experience with Glocks - some worked and some were prone to “limpwristing” and also the Glock .40’s working without a light and then not with a light and also some Gen4’s working for 1K rounds then not working after that). But maybe that small weight difference does matter with the current spring rate?

[Sig_Fiend]

Is it a gen5 slide with the breech face cut and forward cocking serrations? What exact type of milling did you have them do to the slide? Are you using a sealing plate for the RMR or not? What other internals do you have in either of the frames you tried? What components are you using in the slide? What ammo are you using (brand, model, weight)? What mags are you using, and have you tried new or known good mags? What RSA are you using? If it's not a stock RSA, what rod and recoil spring weight?

[Lunker]

Is it a gen5 slide with the breech face cut and forward cocking serrations? What exact type of milling did you have them do to the slide? Are you using a sealing plate for the RMR or not? What other internals do you have in either of the frames you tried? What components are you using in the slide? What ammo are you using (brand, model, weight)? What mags are you using, and have you tried new or known good mags? What RSA are you using? If it's not a stock RSA, what rod and recoil spring weight?

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Stock RSA, barrell and all slide internals.. Everything else shown in pics.
Slight improvement in reliability when I switch to a well worn in RSA from my GEN five Glock 34. It goes for most of the time having feed problems to working a little bit better than 50%.
Ammo is full power reloads using Winchester 231 powder and 124 grain fmj, loaded a little short to make my CZ Shadow happy. Feeds reliably in my other five 9mm semi auto pistols.
I will remove the RMR and give it a shot with that and see how it works.

[Trukinjp13]

Did they reassemble the slide? Sometimes the company will use new screws that are designed to work correctly. They have done a lot of work for people I know. Never any issues that I have heard of. Recoil springs didn’t get swapped somehow?

If you have not. I’d disassemble slide and reassemble it. Hopefully they can get back to you.


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[TC215]

I’ve used Jagerwerks in the past and had good results. However, they’ve reportedly been having some issues with customer service and staffing over the last few months. I’d double check the re-assembly of the slide.

[1911Nut]

Not a G17, but Jagerwerks milled my G43 for a Holosun 407K and installed it. That was just recently (in the last few weeks). Zero functionality problems so far with a few different brands of ammo and some reloads.

[M2CattleCo]

Ammo is full power RELOADS RELOADS RELOADS using Winchester 231 powder and 124 grain fmj, loaded a little short to make my CZ Shadow happy. Feeds reliably in my other five 9mm semi auto pistols.

Something makes me think it may not be the optic. :p

[Sig_Fiend]

When in doubt, try known good, factory, standard power FMJ. Preferably something like Speer Lawman, Federal Champion, Black Hills, etc. In the case of 9mm, probably go for a 115gr or 124gr FMJ with a standard rounded ogive to be absolutely certain.

[GJM]

To restate the obvious, direct milling brings a greater chance of inducing some reliability issues, where using a factory MOS system gives you a greater chance of having a plate come loose.

[HTM]

In my experience the biggest issue with either process is function issues related to the screws. Direct milling often requires a shorter screw on the extractor side so as to not interfere with the EDP assembly. Conversely the issue with MOS is installation of both the adaptor plate and or the optic to the plate. Test fitting is always best. Do not assume that the supplied screws are correct.

[Nephrology]

I have at least ~6 handguns milled by Jagerwerks, zero functional issues with them to date. 2x G48, 2x G43, G19, G26. I guess I haven't shot my 19 yet. Still pending the ACRO P-2. the other 5 have a cpl hundred rounds each since milling at least, no probs.

[Shawn Dodson]

Mount the RDO but don't install the screw over the ejector rod. Shoot it. Does the problem persist? If no, then the missing screw, when installed, is contacting the ejector rod and inhibiting ejector movement when a round slides underneath it during feeding.

[HTM]

Mount the RDO but don't install the screw over the ejector rod. Shoot it. Does the problem persist? If no, then the missing screw, when installed, is contacting the ejector rod and inhibiting ejector movement when a round slides underneath it during feeding.

IMO there's no reason to shoot the gun with one screw. Install the optic without loctite etc.. Install install the parts. You can test the extractor by leveraging the extractor without the barrel installed. If you have free movement you should be good to go. Also if there's a real issue you won't even be able to install the EDP assembly. On a final note, I've seen many that have so much loctite in the EDP channel it looks like a smurf masturbated into it.

[Shawn Dodson]

IMO there's no reason to shoot the gun with one screw. Install the optic without loctite etc.. Install install the parts. You can test the extractor by leveraging the extractor without the barrel installed. If you have free movement you should be good to go. Also if there's a real issue you won't even be able to install the EDP assembly. On a final note, I've seen many that have so much loctite in the EDP channel it looks like a smurf masturbated into it.

There's nothing better than a full, dynamic test with live ammunition. The optic will be fine with just one screw mounting it in place for troubleshooting.

If the screw tip is interfering with the rod and inhibiting or preventing its freedom of movement then a couple of nuts can be screwed onto the screw, and locked together to expose just one or two threads, and mounted in a vise to file down the exposed tip to shorten the screw a smidge.