Modifying a leather holster

[Clusterfrack]

Can a leather holster be trimmed? Is it worth trying? To get this started here's my post from another thread:

I tried the Kusiak for casual carry. It’s comfortable, but the shape is problematic. Why is there a hammer guard for a LCR? It prints horribly.

I’m thinking about cutting it off, but don’t know if that’s a good idea. I don’t have experience with leather holsters.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210820/9bd49ea30c735de39f4a8e579d4cf240.jpg

[Caballoflaco]

Can a leather holster be trimmed? Is it worth trying? To get this started here's my post from another thread:

It should be ok, but I would run a line of stitching before I made the cut (see blue line below cut just above). Can you post up a pic of the back of the holster too?

76032

AzShooter has more experience in leather work than I do, maybe he can offer some advice too.

[Clusterfrack]

Thanks Caballoflaco. Here's the back. I wouldn't have thought of stitching BEFORE cutting. Duh.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210820/3b23e9feb3616b15521e748c8e01ae2a.jpg

[BillSWPA]

Since you would cut through existing stitching, I would glue the ends of that stitching adjacent to the cut immediately after making the cut to ensure that it does not come out.

[AzShooter]

If you don't care how it looks you could cut off the area where the flag is on the back. I see your point, it's not needed for a hammerless revolver. If you don't have a way to stitch it it should still hold up. Most holster makers use heavy adhesives to bind the parts together.

[Caballoflaco]

Thanks Caballoflaco. Here's the back. I wouldn't have thought of stitching BEFORE cutting. Duh.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210820/3b23e9feb3616b15521e748c8e01ae2a.jpg

I was just thinking it would probably be easier to stitch before cutting. But, you could cut it and glue the remaining stitches as BillSWPA stated to see if you liked the mod before you spent any extra time stitching it and still be ok. I don’t think either way is really wrong.

You will want to burnish the exposed edge after everything is done to seal up the leather. You can sand it down to whatever grit you like then rub it with the back of a spoon or something to get the fibers packed down and finish it off by rubbing in some beeswax or another leather sealer product.

[Clusterfrack]

If you don't care how it looks you could cut off the area where the flag is on the back. I see your point, it's not needed for a hammerless revolver. If you don't have a way to stitch it it should still hold up. Most holster makers use heavy adhesives to bind the parts together.


...You will want to burnish the exposed edge after everything is done to seal up the leather. You can sand it down to whatever grit you like then rub it with the back of a spoon or something to get the fibers packed down and finish it off by rubbing in some beeswax or another leather sealer product.

This is exactly the sort of info I was hoping to learn.

Thanks guys.

[willie]

Take it to a shoe repair shop if you can find one.

[fatdog]

While I have all the Tandy Leather tools and thread and sealer and stuff to mod and make crap for my CAS hobby, I agree with Willie, your shortest surest path might be a good old fashioned shoe shop. When I have a project I want to look good, get stitched and sealed properly, there is a shop up in Birmingham that always makes the mods l want look nice and they are used to turning stuff relatively quickly (ten days or less). Not all that expensive in the grand scheme of things either.

[Clusterfrack]

Take it to a shoe repair shop if you can find one.

You do realize I live in Portland? LOL! I'll find a shoe shop somewhere they won't call the police if I bring in a holster.

[willie]

You do realize I live in Portland? LOL! I'll find a shoe shop somewhere they won't call the police if I bring in a holster.

Try a saddlery shop. Several there. You might discover that one makes holsters.

[Inspector71]

I’ve cut two leather pancake holsters over the years. Decided that I didn’t need the thumb break retention anymore. So, out came the tin snips from the tool box. Eye balled where I wanted to cut away. Now I got “open top” concealment pancake holsters. No fraying of leather; still still & strong several years later. One was an Aker, the other Gould & Goodrich.

[rdtompki]

Or a saddle maker. Given that Portland is becoming a wild west town I'm sure they are easy to find.

[jandbj]

I’ve trimmed a few leather holsters through the years. Never restitched, but alway made sure to buff and seal the cut edges. I used thinned wood glue for making certain the edges didn’t fray. Was an old school method IIRC was from an old Hal Swiggett article back in the mid-late 80’s.