House with well/septic tank - RFI

[Andy T]

My new house will have a well and a septic tank. This is the first time I will have this kind of set up (vs city provided water/sewer). What are some important things one should know/do in order to maximize comfort/stability/reliability?

[Crow Hunter]

My new house will have a well and a septic tank. This is the first time I will have this kind of set up (vs city provided water/sewer). What are some important things one should know/do in order to maximize comfort/stability/reliability?

Put a light in the well house and turn it on if it is below freezing.

If possible run your grey water somewhere other than the septic. (My Dad did this and it was nearly 40 years before the septic needed to be pumped)

Have your septic pumped every 5-10 years depending on usage.

Don't drive heavy equipment over the field tiles.

Don't flush anything other than poo or TP down the toilet/sink. (Specifically grease or feminine hygiene products)

Be careful what you send into the septic, if it kills yeast/bacteria, it will kill the bacteria that are breaking down your waste.

Make sure you have your water tested. Keep an eye on it and have it tested again at some later date to make sure you aren't getting leaching contamination from something.

I have lived on well water/septic tank for most of my life. It isn't too bad if you take care of it. Plus the water tastes much better. (Nothing tastes quite as good to me as the well water I grew up on )

[oregon45]

+1 on what Crow Hunter said. I would add that installing a transfer switch in the electrical panel in your well-house, to allow you to use a generator, is good idea if you want to have water during power outages.

[blues]

I pull the septic filter annually from the T-Baffle, (shoulder length veterinary gloves highly recommended), and hose it off in the drain field.

When it gets to 15* overnight, I let the faucet, (furthest in the house from the well pump, and up a floor), drip to keep the pump operating and pipes from freezing. Learned my lesson once when things froze overnight and it took a good while to get things thawed. Make sure you have good insulation inside the well casing, change it if it's worn down.

[fatdog]

What Crowhunter, blues and Oregon45 said, been on that most of the last 30 years.

You might stall the septic pump out longer than that 5-7 years, but the day you put it off too long you will certainly regret it.

We use the Septic tank maintenance stuff (various brands of flushable stuff that feed your bacteria) but I have no proof it helps. It does not hurt.

Don't use clorox in your laundry, and as stated be thoughtful about any bacteria killing stuff you put down the drain including various mouthwash type products.

Submersible water pumps are not subject to loosing their prime like jet pumps are, so if you ever have to change out the pump going submersible, if you are not already, is an upgrade in my experience. If you have a jetpump make sure you learn to to reprime the system if it is ever needed.

I installed a "heat lamp" 250W bulb with a freeze level 35 degree triggered thermostat in my well house many years ago, well insulated too, and never had a freezing problem since.

[rob_s]

I agree with most of the above (6 years on well/septic). However, if you live in a house full of women who have never been on a well or septic, good luck enforcing some of that stuff. We use bleach in the laundry, stuff whole produce sections down the garbage disposal, I can only imagine what makes it's way down the toilet...

I'm honestly to the point that if (when?) the drain field has to be re-built we just won't go on vacation(s) that year to cover the cost.

Something else I'll say about well water...

We opted for a whole-house reverse osmosis system because my wife couldn't fathom not being able to just drink out of whatever faucet she or the kids wanted to. In our house, that also means that all of our hose bibs on the exterior are pulling from the RO because we don't have a separate irrigation pump (we actually do have an irrigation well from a previous owner but some other precious owner tore down the pump house and it wouldn't matter anyway because the original owner plumbed the hose bibs all to the main water supply and changing that now would be a pain in the ass). The RO system cost us about $10k including needing to re-drill the well, and we *should* have spent another $2k on electrical upgrades to make it work correctly (RO works off two pumps, most systems only use one). And, the RO strips all of the minerals out of the water, so if you believe that you need those for health reasons, RO water is horribly bad.

On a lighter note, get all of it inspected as part of your buying process and include those inspections in your offer letter. On a similar note, if you have a pool get that inspected and include it in the offer letter too. I hear horror stories in our neighborhood all the time of people that didn't get their well/septic/pool inspected and are now stuck because of the "as-is" contract. You may not cancel the contract based on the results of any of those inspections but (a) at least you'll have some idea of what you're buying and (b) you can use that information to negotiate down the price (or, you could 6 years ago, with housing prices now, who knows).

[Andy T]

Thank you all. The house is a new construction in FL. That should, hopefully, alleviate some of the initial state and freezing issues. Is it not advisable to drink water from faucets? I usually only drink bottled water. Faucet water is only used in cooking/coffee/tea (after boiling).

[rob_s]

Thank you all. The house is a new construction in FL. That should, hopefully, alleviate some of the initial state and freezing issues. Is it not advisable to drink water from faucets? I usually only drink bottled water. Faucet water is only used in cooking/coffee/tea (after boiling).

you'll need to get the water tested to see if it's potable or not, and what you'd need to do to make it potable.

If it's new construction, what sort of water filtration system is the builder providing?

[RoyGBiv]

In my experience, FL water is universally stinky (sulfur). Maybe where you are it's not so. If the well already exists, it's easy to smell and taste. You can decide for yourself whether treatment is required for drinking. High sulfur will also turn light colored clothes a yellowish gray if not treated.

When I was on a well, it was through 450 feet of granite, the water was a light blue in the tub and I really liked the mineral taste of it.

Another concern would be the age of the well, flow/refill rate and condition of the equipment. If it's an older well, did they install sufficient length casement to meet current code for blocking infiltration of groundwater? For example.

Nothing to add to previous advice on septic except to add RidX monthly to compensate for whatever household cleaners you will inevitably use. It works.

75501

[ccmdfd]

Get a generator big enough to power your water pump. And then make sure the connections are wired appropriately.

Losing power stinks. Losing water when you lose power absolutely sucks.

[blues]

We've been drinking our faucet water for going on 18 years. Only filter is a whole house filter. No doctor visits as a result.

Years ago I checked with a couple of universities which had conducted research on the health of septic tanks and they wrote to tell me that additives were not only unnecessary, but could even be problematic in some cases.

We don't use any. There's plenty of bacteria in the stuff that goes into the tank and it keeps things balanced without any "help".

[0ddl0t]

Depends on your water, get it tested. Think of it as spring water (some springs are good and some springs aren't). Most bottled water like Dasani & Aquafina come from the taps of various city water supplies.

[Duces Tecum]

Someday the property will need financing / refinancing. Commonly, the loan will be originated by a bank, but quickly sold to FHA or one of the other government agencies. The buyer of the loan will have specific requirements regarding wells and septic tanks. Either the property meets their standards and is allowable collateral or it doesn't . . . and isn't. In the latter case neither you nor anyone who wants to buy the property from you will be able to get a mortgage that is intended to be sold to an agency.

Some people check around for financing sources and details of well / septic requirements before they buy. One source of intelligence might be the local appraisers. Most states have a computerized list of licensed appraisers searchable by location. Once contacted, confirm that the appraiser deals with a lot of well / septic properties.

[Crow Hunter]

Get a generator big enough to power your water pump. And then make sure the connections are wired appropriately.

Losing power stinks. Losing water when you lose power absolutely sucks.

What we did growing up was to run a bathtub and other such containers with water whenever bad weather threatened. You can always flush the toilet by pouring water in it and use it for bathing and such until the power comes back on.

Alternatively, if you didn't plan ahead you can use other sources. I have had to wash/bathe with back of the toilet water before (NOT FROM THE BOWL ;) ). While it is perfectly clean, it makes you feel weird. :)

[CCT125US]

The house is a new construction in FL.

Highly suggest gravity fed septic system, thereby avoiding any power issues to the septic system. You can fill the toilet tank with stored water, and flush as normal, and let gravity work.

Basements / sump pits, aren't a thing everywhere, so this may already be standard practice.

[rob_s]

What we did growing up was to run a bathtub and other such containers with water whenever bad weather threatened. You can always flush the toilet by pouring water in it and use it for bathing and such until the power comes back on.

Alternatively, if you didn't plan ahead you can use other sources. I have had to wash/bathe with back of the toilet water before (NOT FROM THE BOWL ;) ). While it is perfectly clean, it makes you feel weird. :)

we address this two ways:
1) pool water for toilet flushing.
2) GTFO and go on a hurrication whenever a storm threatens.

[fatdog]

my wife came up with a bathtub liner called a WaterBob that holds about 100 gallons for those scenarios when you have had some warning about potential power loss...last time we had to use it, it was awesome to have....not that expensive...

[farscott]

If you have never been on septic, it is important to never ever dump grease into the sink, to never flush flushable wipes, and to limit as much as you can what goes into the septic tank. If you do not have bidets, it is time to get some so you can limit the amount of paper going into the septic system. You should also plan to have the septic tank pumped on a regular basis. The first time should be around three years or so. At that time, you can assess how full the tank is and adjust the frequency. It is better to pump too often than to have a single sewage backup. The frequency is dependent upon the size of the tank, how well the property "perks", and your family's habits.

[Andy T]

you'll need to get the water tested to see if it's potable or not, and what you'd need to do to make it potable.

If it's new construction, what sort of water filtration system is the builder providing?

Does the type of water filtration system (if needed) depend on local water?

Here is the information I got from the builder's office:

No filtration system is included with the house.
The well is chlorinated prior to close, so it is potable.

[fly out]

Shocking a well does not guarantee that the water will be potable. It still has to be tested. Ideally, your contract says that you'll get a clean water test prior to occupancy, but the builder might figure that they'll use chlorine, and anything after that is on you.

You can test for any number of things, but there are probably some "standard" tests run in your area. Here, it's typically bacteria, lead, arsenic and nitrates. In some places, radon is included. That's not very common here. You can ask around to see what's customary.

If children are going to be drinking the water regularly, you might test for fluoride, to see where you're at.

Are you getting a septic system, or a holding tank?

[rob_s]

Does the type of water filtration system (if needed) depend on local water?

Here is the information I got from the builder's office:

No filtration system is included with the house.
The well is chlorinated prior to close, so it is potable.

Yeah that means it’s potable until you close lol

I would plan on getting it tested both prior to close and every couple of months thereafter.

[Bratch]

You might check and verify if it’s a traditional lateral line septic or an aerobic system with a sprinkler.

I grew up on a traditional system and currently have one. My parents built two years ago and they had an aerobic system installed. I honestly don’t know the pros and cons of each.

[LJP]

Been on well and septic since 2009 in two different homes and wouldn’t have it any other way. Granted, this is in the NE US, and my wells have been drilled deep, so I get good filtration of my water. I will say that getting a mortgage on a new construction with well and septic was a PITA, but not insurmountable. Just a LOT of paperwork.

[oregon45]

A great deal depends on how deep the well is. My current well is 250 feet deep, which is a moderate depth in my area, and requires salt and iron filtration systems--and even with those we have hard water buildup. My parent's well at their place, which is about three miles away but about 300ft higher in elevation, is down 475 feet and their water is clean and fresh tasting without any filtration at all. The drawbacks to a deep well are that the expense goes way up if you ever need to replace the pump or re-line the well. Balance that against good tasting water, not having to maintain a filtration system, or systems, and not having to deal with hard-water maintenance and cleaning issues.

[CSW]

My new house will have a well and a septic tank. This is the first time I will have this kind of set up (vs city provided water/sewer). What are some important things one should know/do in order to maximize comfort/stability/reliability?


Put a light in the well house and turn it on if it is below freezing.

If possible run your grey water somewhere other than the septic. (My Dad did this and it was nearly 40 years before the septic needed to be pumped)

Have your septic pumped every 5-10 years depending on usage.

Don't drive heavy equipment over the field tiles.

Don't flush anything other than poo or TP down the toilet/sink. (Specifically grease or feminine hygiene products)

Be careful what you send into the septic, if it kills yeast/bacteria, it will kill the bacteria that are breaking down your waste.

Make sure you have your water tested. Keep an eye on it and have it tested again at some later date to make sure you aren't getting leaching contamination from something.

I have lived on well water/septic tank for most of my life. It isn't too bad if you take care of it. Plus the water tastes much better. (Nothing tastes quite as good to me as the well water I grew up on )

Is it a dug well or a drilled?

Our home had a 35' deep dug well since 1980. Last year, with the water levels very low in NH, we had only 1 tile of water left in September 10, 2020. [about 500 gallons.]
We decided that it was time to have a well drilled.
I got on a list with a reputable driller, and didn't get it sunk until December 09, 2020.

120 feet to bedrock,
380 feet to water.

12gpm.

The above advice is stellar for septic operations.
Get the house pumped when you move in, start fresh. Rid ex and other stuff like that is not necessary if you have a functioning 'healthy system'.