Thread locker?

[SouthNarc]

I'm not sure if this is the right place for this thread but didn't know where else to put it.

Is there a preference for a thread locker? Specifically my application would be optics to mounts, mounts to rails, flashlights to rails, etc. Is there a general purpose one or does each require a certain product?

[rd62]

I'm in no way an expert but have always used and had good luck with locktite blue for the general purposes you've listed.

[HeavyDuty]

I’ve been using the Loctite blue “chapstick” for a while with good results - I first read about it here.

[BN]

Sorry/not sorry for the thread drift. When I saw the thread title, my first thought was that either LL or BBI are the ones who usually lock a thread. ;)

[1Rangemaster]

FWIW:

1)Loctite 248-stick or have seen it described as “in gel form”. SoCalDep is using this with success over different platforms, plates and sights.
2)”Vibra-Tite VC-3” is included with C&H plates with a detailed “paper” on installation on their website. I have mounted a few sights using it, and with the exception of my first install, has worked for me. Some here are against it, but so far so good. Several thousand rounds over two years on an ACRO and a Holosun 509T.
3)I know of one instructor who has used clear nail polish on several installs. He reports no issues over thousands of rounds.
JCN had a procedure where he also had put a substance under the plate for cushioning (?)
I believe it’s critical to degrease the screws/threads. A torque wrench is mandatory; we are using the FixIt sticks with good results. Strong recommendation to let the Loctite sit for 24 hours.
EVERYTHING should be checked periodically, particularly after a shooting session. I don’t think a weekly check excessive
for me personally, but it may be too much to ask of “non-dedicated” personnel.

[JCN]

JCN had a procedure where he also had put a substance under the plate for cushioning (?)
I believe it’s critical to degrease the screws/threads. A torque wrench is mandatory; we are using the FixIt sticks with good results. Strong recommendation to let the Loctite sit for 24 hours.
EVERYTHING should be checked periodically, particularly after a shooting session. I don’t think a weekly check excessive
for me personally, but it may be too much to ask of “non-dedicated” personnel.

Thanks for the heads up.

I use E6000 (available at Walmart or Amazon) for $7 or so.

I use a small dollop between slide and plate and squeeze to press fit so the screws don’t have to take the shear load.

It’s nice because it stays a little rubbery. It’s also easy to rub off later without residue like rubber cement.

Never had an issue since through tens of thousands of rounds.

I like it for plates because you can’t tell if they’re loose under an optic and I wanted a reversible option.

These days I use a very small amount for sealed bottom optics (SRO, Holosun 507) too.

[1Rangemaster]

JCN:
Is there a specific kind of E6000. A quick search showed several “formulations”, e.g., “Industrial”, “Fabric”, etc.
Thanks in advance

[JCN]

JCN:
Is there a specific kind of E6000. A quick search showed several “formulations”, e.g., “Industrial”, “Fabric”, etc.
Thanks in advance

(Confirmed) I use the “industrial.”

75171

$3 on Amazon

https://amazon.com/E6000-231020-Adhesive-Precision-Tips/dp/B00JP3X9WE/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=e6000+glue&qid=1627916658&sprefix=e6000&sr=8-6

Even though it uses buzzwords like “industrial” and “permanent” it’s really not when it comes to metal. It’s easily removable.

Les Pepperoni maybe can give follow up feedback on how it’s working for his plate.

[fatdog]

loctite blue

[Default.mp3]

Loctite 242 or 243 are your typical purpose threadlocker for this purpose (243 having more oil resistance and thus considered the "upgraded" version); 248 would be the stick version. Just being pedantic here, but "Blue" Loctite in it of itself is a whole line of products by Henkel, so while 242 and 243 are the most common of them, it's better (IMO) to actually reference the number, too.

For really small fasteners or set screws, you will probably want 222 (which is the most popular Purple Loctite).

I'm personally lazy and just use Rocksett for everything, as it also holds up to high temperatures much better than most of the common Loctite formulations, including 263 (the typical Red Loctite), but can be easily removed with just hand tools and the residue can be removed with just some boiling water.

I, too, never really had great luck with Vibratite VC-3.

[Darth_Uno]

Some people swear by Vibratite and some people swear at it. I use it for light applications like scope rings on a .223, or weapon lights. Things that needs to stay put, but still not be a bear to remove.

[HTM]

Some people swear by Vibratite and some people swear at it. I use it for light applications like scope rings on a .223, or weapon lights. Things that needs to stay put, but still not be a bear to remove.

Currently using Vibra-tite for optics. No complaints so far. Prep is important. Degrease screws and female threads with alcohol or acetone. I don't trust pre-applied blue (242). I remove it if possible. Sometimes I scuff it off with a wire brush, degrease and reapply. It doesn't take much to be effective. Though I don't trust blue on pistol MRDS'. I also always use a torque wrench. Just like building engines. I pre-torque bolts, screws about 1/2-2/3 before finishing to final torque spec.

Most issues I've seen are screws under or over torqued on pistol optics. Loose or overtighted they fail at the screwhead. Also poor prep or loaded with loctite.

Good results with this Wera torque wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KN3GAK/?coliid=I39J9JZX8MQ1U1&colid=2VQEE2QZJ6QEX&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

[Yung]

Here's a fairly recent thread from last year where people talked about Vibra-Tite when it came to red dot sights.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?44048-Vibra-Tite

[Wayne Dobbs]

Loctite 248 "chapstick" is very easy to use! Thanks to SoCalDep for showing me the true way!

[Sal Picante]

Les Pepperoni maybe can give follow up feedback on how it’s working for his plate.

I had some issue with the LTT plate and optic mount...

Initially, I think they used some VibraTite and it just backed out after a few thousand rounds.

I tried the JCN method, but, there are bit that need to move on the Beretta top-end under the plate (springs, FP block, etc). That failed, I think because I used old Loctite.

I stripped the plate, cleaned the pockets and screws with acetone and isopropyl. Let it dry really well, then used fresh Loctite blue #242 (shake it well and apply without spilling the shit everywhere).

So far, it has held (~1500 rounds so far).

I think the trick is really in the surface prep details.

While the RDO is clearly the future, the prep work, checking, etc is something you need to be consistent with.

[okie john]

Loctite 242 or 243 are your typical purpose threadlocker for this purpose (243 having more oil resistance and thus considered the "upgraded" version); 248 would be the stick version. Just being pedantic here, but "Blue" Loctite in it of itself is a whole line of products by Henkel, so while 242 and 243 are the most common of them, it's better (IMO) to actually reference the number, too.

243 for me.

And because this is PF, here's a chart:

75216

Okie John

[RJ]

Following the thread with interest. I can only add anecdotally that so far Blue/Medium threadlocker has worked (no screws backing out per witness marks) on three Holosun installs so far for me. Holosun in particular mentions "blue/medium" thread locker in their user manual.

75219


243 for me.

And because this is PF, here's a chart:

75216

Okie John

I did have a follow up on Okie's post.

I saw that chart, and based on that, and screw size, it would seem you would end up using Purple. I was intrigued enough to email Henkel and ask, specifically, for mounting mini red dot sights, with the screw sizes I gleaned off the manufacturers plate/optic web sites (which are well under 1/4" obviously), would they then recommend purple for that application. I did this twice, using direct email, as as well their "contact" page (IIRC) but never did receive a reply back from the company, so I just kept using Blue/medium.

[JCS]

When talking about optics and people say _____ has worked great for me so far it would helpful if we put it in context of round count.



Thanks for the heads up.

I use E6000 (available at Walmart or Amazon) for $7 or so.

I use a small dollop between slide and plate and squeeze to press fit so the screws don’t have to take the shear load.

It’s nice because it stays a little rubbery. It’s also easy to rub off later without residue like rubber cement.

Never had an issue since through tens of thousands of rounds.

I like it for plates because you can’t tell if they’re loose under an optic and I wanted a reversible option.

These days I use a very small amount for sealed bottom optics (SRO, Holosun 507) too.

Sample size of 1 but after JCN posted this awhile back and his round counts across multiple guns I did this. my SRO screws came loose using Loctite only and after switching to this method I’m about 1,800 rounds in and the screws have not moved. It’s not a big round count by any means but better than the few hundred I got from Loctite only.

[RoyGBiv]

(Confirmed) I use the “industrial.”

75171

Even though it uses buzzwords like “industrial” and “permanent” it’s really not when it comes to metal. It’s easily removable.

Thanks for this... I happen to have some of this stuff at home and I'm in the process of mounting a RDS... will give it a try...

[okie john]

When talking about optics and people say _____ has worked great for me so far it would helpful if we put it in context of round count.

Most recently, LocTite 243 has worked great for me on all fasteners for two Nightforce SHV 3-10, one in SWFA rings and one in Leupold PRW rings. Warne bases for both. The 308 is a 700, the 30-06 is a Model 70. Each weighs ~8 pounds, so no flyweights. Round count is about 1,500 rounds of full-power ammo split about evenly between the two rifles.


Okie John

[BWT]

I attached my SRO and CHWPS plate yesterday. Here’s an instructional video put out by CHWPS that I think is pretty good.

https://youtu.be/5WYLywG3qaA

I used Loctite 242 after watching this video. I almost went with E6000 per the feedback here. Decided not to at the last second. We’ll see the amount of corrosion and rust I saw under the plate, in the screws, under the rear sight from EDC’ing the Glock 34 AIWB made me leery of introducing anything and leaving it untouched for years that I don’t have direct experience with.

YMMV. I figured attach this clip. I replaced the sights as well - the Loctite on the front sight of my G34 seemed to have disappeared. The sight was still attached. I wonder if it burnt off or was older. I bought a new tube of 242 Loc-Tite and I’ll buy a new tube of 271 when I’m at Lowe’s again. I am going to try putting a thin coat on Loctite 271 on the bottom of the front sight post.

I think Les’ and CHWPS advice are both relevant. Sight prep and slide prep is huge. I think heat build up in slides is also a factor.

I remember some guys here used to advocate the green Loctite for the front sight.

ETA: The other conclusion I come to is I’ve used open and previously used Loctite. I think I need to keep an eye on the expiration date or buy new Loc-Tite.

[GearFondler]

^^^ Some of the Green loctites are seriously permanent shit... As in you may have to break/drill out a sight if you want to remove it depending on which green one you use.

[BWT]

^^^ Some of the Green loctites are seriously permanent shit... As in you may have to break/drill out a sight if you want to remove it depending on which green one you use.

Oh I never had the guts to do it. But I believe a former moderator JV did it. I only worked up to 271 after wondering why my shooting was so weird on a Glock one day and brushed the front sight and it wiggled.

I use 242 and 271 for a specific application - ETA: specifically the front sight screw of a Glock. I replaced my 34 sights yesterday and because of this thread I was curious would it break free without heat and it did. It seems my concerns were well founded.

How I plan on addressing that is only applying 271 recently acquired. I had a mostly full tube, but I figure it’s been in a cabinet for a few years. Time to buy new, shake up, and label them with dates.

[Jim Watson]

I need to re-stick my Dawson sight on G17.

Anecdote Alert.
Some years ago, FLG was assembling compensators for USPSA shooters and having trouble getting them to stay put. He rang the changes on Loctites and ended up with green. Not 290 "medium-high strength thread locker", but 620 sleeve retainer. That stuck them, by gum.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Some years ago, Greg "Sully" Sullivan advocated for clear nail polish as a thread locker during armorer courses that I attended for both shotguns and AR-15.
I've been using it, blue or red Loctite, and a little VC3 alternately. I haven't had any notable failures, but I would not consider myself "high-volume" by any stretch.

[BWT]

I need to re-stick my Dawson sight on G17.

Anecdote Alert.
Some years ago, FLG was assembling compensators for USPSA shooters and having trouble getting them to stay put. He rang the changes on Loctites and ended up with green. Not 290 "medium-high strength thread locker", but 620 sleeve retainer. That stuck them, by gum.

Let me know if you’re fearless enough.

You know if I had a drill press. I rarely ever change sights. Semi-permanently attaching a sight sounds more and more reasonable at a certain point than this discovery effort. You know?

[Lon]

I use Loctite 243.

[tlong17]

After a lot of experimentation and beautiful failures I've settled on 243 (or chapstick version of the same) for pistol red dot mounting/Glock front sights and Vibratite for holster hardware.

I tried some green wicking loctite on a finicky front sight for a LTT 92 and it worked well for about 2k rounds before the sight worked loose again. Switched to Rocksett per LTT and no issues so far. Also Rocksett for gas block set screws.

[Shotgun]

E6000 must be the WD-40 of adhesives. I have used it to reattach shoe soles and patch holes in rubber boots. Never thought of it having an application to firearms, but, why not?

[BWT]

You know I was in Lowe’s I walked past the adhesive section.

I saw E6000 clear - double checked this thread. I bought it, removed my SRO and plate. I put E6000 in there. I’ll let you guys know how it goes and 242 on the screws.

My pistol rest arrives tomorrow. I figured I haven’t zero’d it yet - do it now. The only tricky part on G34 MOS is there is a pocket milled out where the plate mates. I’m wondering if it’ll impact things.

I’ll keep track of round count and let you guys know.

[UNK]

Ive been told not to use a drop still attached to the nozzle. Apparently if it touches metal but is sucked back into the nozzle the loc tite in the bottle will set.