Vibratite vs Loc-tite

[ASH556]

Seems I've seen more threads here lately where Loc-tite is being recommended for optics mounting screws (specifically talking red dots to pistol slides). My understanding and what FCD still recommends is Vibratite. What's the deal?

[Mirolynmonbro]

CHPWS included vibratite with my plate as well

[Super77]

I have never had Vibratite work to secure an optic/plate/slide combo long term. Maybe I'm doing it wrong somehow but I'm always careful to clean the parts well and use the Vibratite according to the directions on the bottle. My theory is that on really small screws the VT gets pushed out and doesn't keep good contact with the actual threads. I've had it work fine on larger threads like rail-to-barrel nut screws. I even bought an expensive German calibrated torque wrench and torqued per CHPWS specs. Screws came loose fairly quickly using Vibratite and Loctite. I think it was 10 in-lbs but I can't remember, it was whatever CHPWS said to use.

I currently use the following procedure with no loose plates/optics: Clean the parts well with brake cleaner, let them dry and reach room temp (to avoid condensation), apply low strength (blue or purple) Loctite per directions, torque screws (plate then optic) using the German spec: gutentight (actually I torque using the short end of an Allen wrench by pressing on the tip of the long end until the long end starts to bent a little). I go around and repeat tightening the screws one then the next sort of like lug nuts on a car wheel. Then wait at least 12 hours but ideally 24 hours for the Loctite to cure.

Screws are single use items. Witness marks are a good idea.

So far so good. No stripped screws, no loose plates. I have a decent round count on a couple Springer P320 to Romeo3Max plates for USPSA carry optics using this method without issue, maybe 5000 rounds on one gun and 1500 on the other. I have used it on three RMR/SRO Glocks using CHPWS plates. Much lower round count on those (probably 1500 combined) without issues. Just my experience, I'm not an engineer. Maybe there's a better method but this is what I've settled on.

[RancidSumo]

I've been using Vibratite for everything and have had good luck. Used it for two pistol mounted RDS that each have a 2000-4000 rounds on them so far without issue. Also used it for the CROM on my 1301 - it only has a couple hundred rounds so far but nothing has loosened.

I apply it to clean parts, let it dry, then torque to spec.

[GearFondler]

Vibratite is tricky with small screws. If you apply it too thickly to those tiny, shallow threads it will shear off as it is screwed in and not hold properly.

[RJ]

My general sense of things is I see more threads and posts here and elsewhere that mention issues with RDS mounts with Vibra-tite. I don't see hardly any threads or posts mentioning issues using blue loctite.

I ended up using blue loctite, and torqued to spec using a Wheeler FATwrench, then witness marked the screws with white sharpie oil based paint pen. No issues to date, but I've only been shooting dots for a few months, and only have had two of them, both Holosuns.

[GJM]

I have concluded, through my own use, that perhaps Vibra Tite works, but I am not smart enough to use it properly. Blue loctite works well for me.

[dontshakepandas]

I have concluded, through my own use, that perhaps Vibra Tite works, but I am not smart enough to use it properly. Blue loctite works well for me.

This is pretty much my experience as well.

[flyrodr]

I have concluded, through my own use, that perhaps Vibra Tite works, but I am not smart enough to use it properly. Blue loctite works well for me.

Third this. Perhaps the Loctite has wider margin of error for achieving acceptable results.

[SoCalDep]

Harumph!

I used Vibratite for a 10,000+ round formal handgun optic test and it held. I’ve had it fail a couple other times including the C&H mount for my G17/SRO. I recently switched the optic after nearly a year of use and several thousand rounds and found one of the plate-slide screws was a quarter turn loose. Same with my Tango Down ACRO mount that had pre-applied VC-3. I’ve seen several other optics come loose when installed with VC-3 and I reinstall with Loctite 248.

Not a Vibratite fan. I vote 248 for the win.

[Adam]

The first time I used vibratite, I squirted it on and screwed the screws in. Then I read the directions. Oh…

I’ve used it twice since, as directed, and so far no issues.

[Sig_Fiend]

I'm going to be uncharacteristically brutal to hopefully address this issue once and for all. This is not directed at anyone. This is purely as a result of my annoyance with Vibra-Tite, the brand. First, let's start with a quote:



I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it;
but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind;
it may be the beginning of knowledge, but you have scarcely, in your thoughts, advanced to the stage of science, whatever the matter may be.

- Lord Kelvin (3 May 1883)


Whatever the matter may be, indeed. It's for that same reason that those who have not ever trained with shot timers are also wrong, but I digress. When it comes to torquing fasteners for critical applications, anything but precise specifications is equivalent to rolling the dice. Let's compare VC3 vs. Loctite 248.

Reference:
Vibra-Tite VC3 Technical Data Sheet (https://www.vibra-tite.com/wp-content/uploads/213_tds.pdf)
Loctite 248 Technical Data Sheet (http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/ShowPDF/243%20NEW-EN?pid=248&format=MTR&subformat=REAC&language=EN&plant=WERCS)

73340 73338

Or in other words, let me put it into a more relatable meme form:

73341

My position is, VC3 is hobbyist-grade. Maybe fine for low stress applications like holster screws. Loctite is trustworthy because they're transparent about the specifications of their product, so it is a known quantity. I wouldn't be as annoyed with Vibra-Tite, however in their own marketing they tout it as legitimate for more critical applications like automotive, but without detailed specifications available. That's like using an impact gun to install the head bolts on your engine. ;)

My vote is Loctite 248 ("blue", stick form; I'm lazy, and these are so convenient!) or 242/243 ("blue", liquid form; 243 is a more oil-resistant form of 242, but either are fine). There are probably scores of other legitimate options on the market, but start here with either of these forms of Loctite blue and keep it simple.

[Default.mp3]

Meanwhile, I'm out here putting Rocksett on everything.

[Spartan1980]

Vibratite and Loctite are completely different in how they accomplish their assignment. The assignment is the same but they go about it in different ways.

Vibratite is a semi hard "sticky goo" that is SUPPOSED to fill the clearance between the thread and act as a vibration dampener which definitely will prevent a screw from backing out. As has already been stated, the problem is with small very fine threads it's really easy to get too much on and then the screw just threads itself through the material due to interference resulting in not having any down in the threads where it needs to be.

Loctite is a straight up adhesive.

I've used Vibratite very successfully but on really small screws such as these I just use Loctite just because it easier to get good results.

[RancidSumo]

Meanwhile, I'm out here putting Rocksett on everything.

I accidentally ended up with 4 ounces of the stuff, which is about a 4 lifetime supply. I've been looking non-muzzle device uses with no luck. I think it will sit on the shelf next to my tub of moly grease until the day I die.

[Trukinjp13]

Have tried vibra multiple times. More than often it seems to fail.

In my job I have always trusted loctite. And outside of pistol mounted plates and holsters. I use loctite for smithing. I have went back to using blue loctite for almost everything but holsters. Vibra works okay for that.

Loctite and let that sit over night. Easy. Works.


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