Screw stuck in kydex, any hacks for this?

[rob_s]

Been a long time since I did any holster wrenching. I can’t seem to get these screw out, the nuts just keep spinning, and I can’t figure a way to get them to stay put so I can turn the screw without turning the nut.

Particularly the ones down inside the body of the holster.

Anyone have any tricks here? The one screw I did get loose doesn’t appear to have any locktite or similar on it so I don’t think that’s the issue. A little reluctant to use heat either way sine the holster itself is plastic…

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[ST911]

Been a long time since I did any holster wrenching. I can’t seem to get these screw out, the nuts just keep spinning, and I can’t figure a way to get them to stay put so I can turn the screw without turning the nut.

Particularly the ones down inside the body of the holster.

Anyone have any tricks here? The one screw I did get loose doesn’t appear to have any locktite or similar on it so I don’t think that’s the issue. A little reluctant to use heat either way sine the holster itself is plastic…

Dremel a slot for a flathead. You could also just dimple it enough to set a punch in to hold while you loosen.

[JCN]

Clean surfaces with alcohol.
Press duct tape to the back.
Hold pressure on the tape while you unscrew from the front.

[rob_s]

Dremel a slot for a flathead. You could also just dimple it enough to set a punch in to hold while you loosen.

That’s what I’m hoping to avoid. Plus it doesn’t get me the ones burried in the holster body.


Clean surfaces with alcohol.
Press duct tape to the back.
Hold pressure on the tape while you unscrew from the front.

That got the last two out of the belt loop end, and loosened one of the three inside the holster!

Making progress!

[vcdgrips]

I have done both techniques above successfully.

My last go round with the issue when I was disassembling a knife was the impetus from buying an a Felo brand driver set and some Wiha individual Tx drivers. Dremeling the slot on a fastener (that you can get to ) and that you are going to replace anyway is a better long term solution.

It is my hope that I will eliminate/reduce "buggered" hardware by using better tools. That is what I am telling myself anyway as my cost per use is slowing getting under 1.00.


edited to add: the short side of a hex ball L shaped "Allen" wrench may get you where you need to go for those inside of the holster. Perhaps buying/modifying replacement hardware with a slot "cut" to minimize the issue going forward?

[JCN]

That’s what I’m hoping to avoid. Plus it doesn’t get me the ones burried in the holster body.



That got the last two out of the belt loop end, and loosened one of the three inside the holster!

Making progress!

If you’re still having difficulty can put some loctite just between the kydex and the nut (making sure to avoid the threads) then use the duct tape on top to really secure the nut in place while you address the screw.

Use fast, abrupt torque on the screw.

[RJ]

I got several good ideas here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?46478-Creative-Chicago-Screw-Tool-Options

This is what I ended up with; a picture hanging hook that I unbent, and formed into a shape to "hold" the Chicago screw with a pliers. This afforded enough grip to resist the screw driver on the other end.

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[rob_s]

I got several good ideas here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?46478-Creative-Chicago-Screw-Tool-Options


Thanks. I may just order one of these. I think this tip would fit inside the holster.
https://www.daltechforce.com/products/chicago-screw-removal-torque-tool

Gonna try the rubber glove trick from the other thread first.

Funny that both my troubles and yours are BladeTech.

[RJ]

Thanks. I may just order one of these. I think this tip would fit inside the holster.
https://www.daltechforce.com/products/chicago-screw-removal-torque-tool

Gonna try the rubber glove trick from the other thread first.

Funny that both my troubles and yours are BladeTech.

Yeah. I used to think that using some blue loc tite would be a good idea, you know, to hold the holster shell on the attachment. But not anymore. I just swapped my BT shell for my Glock 34 for a gamer range/competition light bearing shell from Tony this week. I was able to kinda sorta hold the barrel of the Chicago screw with a dime and a leatherman pliers attachment, then use an electric screwdriver to turn the screw, but man what a pita.

Hope the tool works out, I'd be very interested in the results.

I've often wondered why (cost, I guess) holster makers don't use something like a captive version of the Chicago screws, similar to this fitting that came on a Vedder holster I bought once (shown at upper left in this picture).

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[OlongJohnson]

If you’re still having difficulty can put some loctite just between the kydex and the nut (making sure to avoid the threads) then use the duct tape on top to really secure the nut in place while you address the screw.

Use fast, abrupt torque on the screw.

Careful with Loctite on thermoplastics. It can chemically attack them and cause them to crack.

[NEPAKevin]

Careful with Loctite on thermoplastics. It can chemically attack them and cause them to crack.

Once upon a time, I was told that nail polish is a safe substitute for Loctite when securing fasteners in Kydex. FWIW, I have not had any issues but I also do my bestest not to get the polish on the plastic anyway.

[Super77]

VIM Tools HBR5 micro ratchet will let you reach into the holster side and a flat blade 1/4” bit with the middle ground out will do the trick

[rob_s]

VIM Tools HBR5 micro ratchet will let you reach into the holster side and a flat blade 1/4” bit with the middle ground out will do the trick

Well, I’m gonna buy one of those anyway, :p but…

At least one of the screws is buried in the holster in such a way as to make getting a cutter in there pretty much impossible without damaging the kydex. So no matter the tool, it’s the cutting that prevents this method.

[JCN]

Well, I’m gonna buy one of those anyway, :p but…

At least one of the screws is buried in the holster in such a way as to make getting a cutter in there pretty much impossible without damaging the kydex. So no matter the tool, it’s the cutting that prevents this method.

Why not just use a longer screw into the backside and then drill / grind out the face of the stuck screw and pop it out from the backside.

Also penetrating oil?

If you have room you could pound a triple square, a torx or square bit into the backside for grip.

[rob_s]

Why not just use a longer screw into the backside and then drill / grind out the face of the stuck screw and pop it out from the backside.

Also penetrating oil?

can't longer screw not enough threads exposed inside the body of the nut. Drilling out is where this may end up.

tried oil, it got on the face of the screw inside the holster body and made it HARDER to hold in place. :eek::( Been trying to dry it out various ways since.


To try and clarify part of the problem, the red circle indicates the worst condition, which is stuck down in a little crevice in the holster body, making all sorts of problems for me trying to grip the nut. The Yellow circle indicates the easier to reach screw, but whatever solution works for the red one will undoubtedly work for the yellow.

Of course, there is an end state where the red one gets destroyed to remove it while the yellow comes out in-tact and re-usable.

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[vcdgrips]

Could you destructively drill out all of the hardware without damaging the kydex?

[rob_s]

Could you destructively drill out all of the hardware without damaging the kydex?

I’m not certain, but I think so. That’ll be the last ditch.

In that instance I’ll have to be able to hold the Phillips head end still so the bit can pass through. I think the screws are loose enough now to allow for that but I’m hoping to avoid that option.

[RJ]

Could you destructively drill out all of the hardware without damaging the kydex?

Yes, or you can get a Dremel-like tool for like $10 at Harbor Freight that has a set of diamond cutting wheels you can chuck in the provided brass collet and go to work on the facing screw head.

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-oscillating-tools/rotary-tools/rotary-tool-kit-80-pc-63235.html

You may end up with some small cuts in the kydex after you get done, but at least the damned screw can come out. Or so I've heard. :cool:

[rob_s]

For anyone following along at home….

I gave the fuck up and ordered a new DOH bracket. The goal here was to re-purpose the existing bracket from one holster to another, but for $17 shipped from Stoeger and the ability to keep the old holster intact if needed and the cost of my time… plus the tool costs more than the bracket…

D U N

[O4L]

For anyone following along at home….

I gave the fuck up and ordered a new DOH bracket. The goal here was to re-purpose the existing bracket from one holster to another, but for $17 shipped from Stoeger and the ability to keep the old holster intact if needed and the cost of my time… plus the tool costs more than the bracket…

D U NI was wondering when you were going to come around to this way of thinking.

[rob_s]

I was wondering when you were going to come around to this way of thinking.

Somewhat in my defense...

I have a vague memory that I looked for the DOH bracket online and didn't see it as readily available at the time from a source I wanted (basically, wasn't on Amazon) and launched myself down the rabbit hole.

A few failed attempts later, my tolerance for fiddle-fart went down and my tolerance for non-Amazon shopping sources went up!