Beretta 92 knuckle. How do I fix these sharp edges?

[JCS]

Okay after 5 months of dry fire I don’t believe the solution is to just build callouses.

My LTT 92 trigger guard consistently tears up my my strong hand middle finger and support hand pointer finger.

I’m hesitant to take a file to it but at this point I can’t think of any other solutions. I even use tape on the trigger guard and it doesn’t help.

Any ideas?

Or recommendations how to smooth out the sharp corners? I hate to ruin the finish on it but idk if I have another option at this point.

70456

[PNWTO]

Does LTT offer the carry bevel as a post-purchase option? If not I believe Wilson offers a similar service.

[JCN]

Build calluses.... you should see the tumor sized calluses I have on those same fingers from the Shadow 2. :D

Alternately, tape your fingers in those areas with bandage / sport tape.

Or use Blister Block type bandages instead of tape.


https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Fredericks-Original-Blister-Bandages/dp/B07LCRX2M7/ref=asc_df_B07LCRX2M7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312087935433&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14608361292312714458&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019676&hvtargid=pla-653058660400&psc=1

[JCS]

Build calluses.... you should see the tumor sized calluses I have on those same fingers from the Shadow 2. :D

Alternately, tape your fingers in those areas with bandage / sport tape.

Or use Blister Block type bandages instead of tape.


https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Fredericks-Original-Blister-Bandages/dp/B07LCRX2M7/ref=asc_df_B07LCRX2M7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312087935433&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14608361292312714458&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019676&hvtargid=pla-653058660400&psc=1

Dude I have a pea sized callous on my middle finger. Glad to know it’s not exclusive to this gun. I tape both fingers every day. Gets kinda annoying when you’re dry during twice a day. First world problems I suppose!

[HCM]

Okay after 5 months of dry fire I don’t believe the solution is to just build callouses.

My LTT 92 trigger guard consistently tears up my my strong hand middle finger and support hand pointer finger.

I’m hesitant to take a file to it but at this point I can’t think of any other solutions. I even use tape on the trigger guard and it doesn’t help.

Any ideas?

Or recommendations how to smooth out the sharp corners? I hate to ruin the finish on it but idk if I have another option at this point.

70456

The real fix is a carry bevel job from LTT or Wilson. This is Beretta's fault, not LTT's. This was never an issue until Beretta's move to TN and is, IMHO a sign of declining quality.

If your going to do it yourself I would likely use a stone and emery paper vs a file. It doesn't take much to brekd the sharp edges.

[JCS]

The real fix is a carry bevel job from LTT or Wilson. This is Beretta's fault, not LTT's. This was never an issue until Beretta's move to TN and is, IMHO a sign of declining quality.

If your going to do it yourself I would likely use a stone and emery paper vs a file. It doesn't take much to brekd the sharp edges.

I don’t blame LTT for sure. Good tip, thanks!

[Cory]

After some time the callous doesnt even look like callous anymore. And you don't notice it as much.

Basically it happens. Here is an instagram post I made in 2017.
p/Bc2Tm7FHkp0

And another hotspot that often develops:
p/BjAraWNH-M8

[JCN]

Dude I have a pea sized callous on my middle finger. Glad to know it’s not exclusive to this gun. I tape both fingers every day. Gets kinda annoying when you’re dry during twice a day. First world problems I suppose!

I will say like the above people, I have taken a Dremel with a stone attachment to break up various hot spots on parts of my guns and things. It’s a tool, not a showpiece. Don’t care about the finish, just care about the performance.

[Hot Sauce]

And another hotspot that often develops:
p/BjAraWNH-M8

I get this one on Glocks, 92s and a few other pistols as well.

[HCM]

I don’t blame LTT for sure. Good tip, thanks!

Yeah I have several Berettas and none of the older IT or MD guns have sharp edges. On the TN guns I've noticed them on both the trigger guard and the tang. For clarifications all the TN guns with such issues pre-date the COVID panic productions.

[EVP]

It has taken me a lot longer to develop callouses with the LTT then other guns.

I have thought about it and will probably take high grit sandpaper the the edges before I send it out for refinishing. I have just held out.

Or I may just send it to Wilson Combat and also have them do the slide modification so I can run the lo-pro sing or sided decocker and also dehorn and refinish.

[JCS]

Yeah I have several Berettas and none of the older IT or MD guns have sharp edges. On the TN guns I've noticed them on both the trigger guard and the tang. For clarifications all the TN guns with such issues pre-date the COVID panic productions.

Any recommendations on grits of Emory paper?

[JSGlock34]

Well, there's a reason why the top of the line custom LTT Elite is the 'Carry Bevel' package...

My hands got pretty beat up shooting my Brigadier Tactical at one of Ernest's classes a few years ago (in those days when ammo was plentiful and you could shoot a few hundred rounds over two days without taking out a bank loan). He let me try his personal 92 - this was essentially the LTT Elite prototype that he built with a Vertec 92G slide on a M9A1 frame. He had given it a significant bevel job, and suggested sending my pistol into Wilson Combat for their bevel treatment (this was before he brought LTT back into the custom Beretta business). Wilson Combat did a great job and I can highly recommend their work.

That said, Ernest managed to get Beretta to smooth out most of the offending sharp edges on the 92 with his signature model, but even the Elite can have some hot spots. I've owned a pair of LTT Elites, including a Carry Bevel, and I think the Carry Bevel package makes a significant difference. Besides knocking off the sharp edges, he opens up the magwell, adds the NP3 coatings, and of course refinishes the gun. I'd consider sending the Elite back to him for the Carry Bevel package - it's more than just the bevel treatment.

The Langdon Tactical gunsmithing team begins every Carry Bevel pistol by hand stoning & polishing the hard edges and snag points on the 92 frame & slide, upgrading the internal magazine well bevel, and improving the trigger guard radius. We then include our NP3 Upgrade and Trigger Job, to dramatically improve corrosion resistance, life span, and lubricity of the action throughout the pistol, as well as user interface with the firing mechanism. Finally, the Carry Bevel is finished off with a full re-cerakoting of the slide and frame.

[Duelist]

The real fix is a carry bevel job from LTT or Wilson. This is Beretta's fault, not LTT's. This was never an issue until Beretta's move to TN and is, IMHO a sign of declining quality.

If your going to do it yourself I would likely use a stone and emery paper vs a file. It doesn't take much to brekd the sharp edges.

I broke the sharp edges on my Italian 92a1 with a 3M 320grit block from Lowe’s. My first 300 round day with it, the beaver tail tore open my thumb joint. And my middle finger knuckle was not happy, and neither was my index finger on the inside of the trigger guard. It is very pleasant to shoot and dry fire now.

I probably ought to get it refinished sometime.

[Hemiram]

I've had 3 92's over the years and a Taurus Pt-92 and never had any issues with callusses. Other guns, yes, but never a Beretta anything.

[JCS]

Well I did it. What a huge difference it seems to make already.

Now, do I need to refinish to prevent rust? Is there anything I can buy at a hardware store to apply. At this point aesthetics don’t matter. At some point I might get it cerakoted but for now I’m fine with a ghetto paint job.

[beenalongtime]

The frame is aluminum.

I believe they anodize it, before finishing it. Wondering about things like Durocoat, touch up pens, etc. (or even a tiny bit of car wax and not worry about finish)?

[HCM]

Well I did it. What a huge difference it seems to make already.

Now, do I need to refinish to prevent rust? Is there anything I can buy at a hardware store to apply. At this point aesthetics don’t matter. At some point I might get it cerakoted but for now I’m fine with a ghetto paint job.

Bicrhwood Casey sells an aluminum touch up pen and Brownells sells a product called Aluma-hyde - both specifically for aluminum guns.

[HCM]

I've had 3 92's over the years and a Taurus Pt-92 and never had any issues with callusses. Other guns, yes, but never a Beretta anything.

IME it was never an issue with Berettas until the move to TN. Sharp edges on the tang and trigger guard are common on the TN made guns including the Wilson and LTT guns.

[defilade]

Well I did it. What a huge difference it seems to make already.

Now, do I need to refinish to prevent rust? Is there anything I can buy at a hardware store to apply. At this point aesthetics don’t matter. At some point I might get it cerakoted but for now I’m fine with a ghetto paint job.


How did you go about rounding the edges over?

[claymore504]

IME it was never an issue with Berettas until the move to TN. Sharp edges on the tang and trigger guard are common on the TN made guns including the Wilson and LTT guns.

I do not see it this way with my Berettas. I have an italian made 92A1 and 92FS. The trigger guard edges on those are sharp. The 92A1 being worse. Then I have an Elite LTT and TN made 92 compact inox and the edges are much smoother on those.

[willie]

Looks to me as if a custom pistol selling for this amount would not have sharp edges especially one that will be refinished anyway.

[AdioSS]

Looks to me as if a custom pistol selling for this amount would not have sharp edges especially one that will be refinished anyway.

That is because these are production line pistols, not true customs.

[Caballoflaco]

I do not see it this way with my Berettas. I have an italian made 92A1 and 92FS. The trigger guard edges on those are sharp. The 92A1 being worse. Then I have an Elite LTT and TN made 92 compact inox and the edges are much smoother on those.

Yeah, I had an Italian M9A3 that was sharp as hell around the triggerguard and mag release.

[JSGlock34]

Yeah, I had an Italian M9A3 that was sharp as hell around the triggerguard and mag release.

These are common hotspots on the 92 - the LTT is much improved in these areas over other 92s, but as discussed may still benefit from some beveling.

[tlong17]

Having a carry beveled version and a non carry beveled version. My hands are noticeably less sore and raw after using the carry bevel. It still happens but takes a lot longer to get to the point where it’s uncomfortable.

[Hemiram]

IME it was never an issue with Berettas until the move to TN. Sharp edges on the tang and trigger guard are common on the TN made guns including the Wilson and LTT guns.

That's too bad. My last one was very nice. Came with like 8 mags 4 OEM, and 4 oddballs, but all worked fine) in almost NIB condition for $400. I had to sell it to survive tax season back in '16. I want another one, but I have a PT92 and that takes care of my 92 fix for now. I like the frame mounted safety better anyway.

Only gun I had that really hurt me due to sharp edges was my FEG P9R. The trigger was like a knife and cut my finger on the first shot. Between the sharp trigger and the insides that were about as crudely finished as I've seen in a long long time, I was busy for a while with my dremel on the trigger and then polishing most of the mechanism to get rid of the CRUNCH it had out of the box. It shot anything though and between my cleaning out the metal chips and polishing everything, it ended up like what it was supposed to be, a nice clone of an S&W 3rd Gen. It's DA trigger was still heavy, but smooth. A neighbor loved it and he bought it from me for almost exactly what I had paid for it six years previously, mods and all. That guy had an amazing gun collection and I would have loved to have had the chance to grab a couple of the WWII stuff he had, but it all went to his kids, who tossed a coin for first pick and divided it up.

[CraigS]

Not specifically for my 92 but I have gotten a couple of diy tools together for smoothing. For wood working I buy the sticky back square sand paper and cut to size and stick onto a piece of trim. Now, for gunsmithing, I can't find fine enough grit, so I buy wet/dry paper in full sheets and cut to whatever my need is. Hardware stores usually have paper up to 400 grit but auto parts stores will have it up to 2000 grit. What I am doing determines grit. On the outside of a gun I am usually in the 220-400 range. On internal parts the 800, 1000, and 2000 grits work really well. It is surprising how little buffing you need after a final sand w/ 2000 grit. I also bought wood dowels in several diameters. Sometimes I just wrap it w/ a piece of sand paper and hold it in place. But I also have a roll of double sided tape I keep handy to help hold paper to dowel. A month or so ago I went to hobby lobby and bought a pack of popsicle sticks. They work great w/ the double sided tape on flat surfaces. BTW the wet/dry paper is nice to have because putting a little water or oil on it helps carry away the fine dust and has the effect of making any given grit work like a one step finer grit. BTW 2, when you sand a G10 grip, the sanded area usually gets kind of a white cloud look to it. Go to 400 for your final, blow or wipe the dust away, and rub it w/ any oil you have handy. As soon as it looks good, grab a clean rag and wipe away the oil. My mag release access thinning.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49858895301_af410fb5c7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iXRSvT)20200505_083605 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXRSvT) by craig stuard (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152454123@N04/), on Flickr

[1slow]

If you are sanding G10, use a respirator, silicosis is an issue.

With exotic hardwoods ( cocobola etc...) use a respirator to avoid lung damage.

[JCS]

How did you go about rounding the edges over?

I used sandpaper wrapped around a rod. I think it was 150 grit and then 400 grit. I didn't disassemble it I just taped off open areas and wiped off the dust as I went.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?45868-My-USPSA-journey-with-a-pizza-gun&p=1212805&viewfull=1#post1212805

[Hot Sauce]

My mag release access thinning.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49858895301_af410fb5c7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iXRSvT)20200505_083605 (https://flic.kr/p/2iXRSvT) by craig stuard (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152454123@N04/), on Flickr

That looks super pro-quality, like it came that way from the manufacturer. Kudos.

[CraigS]

If you are sanding G10, use a respirator, silicosis is an issue.

With exotic hardwoods ( cocobola etc...) use a respirator to avoid lung damage.

Thank you. I wasn't aware of this.

[spence]

The real fix is a carry bevel job from LTT or Wilson. This is Beretta's fault, not LTT's. This was never an issue until Beretta's move to TN and is, IMHO a sign of declining quality.

If your going to do it yourself I would likely use a stone and emery paper vs a file. It doesn't take much to brekd the sharp edges.

My first Beretta was an MD M9. It ate the shit out of my hands. When I switched to the TN made LTT, I don't have nearly the problems. Now days, I'm not putting in the round counts I was at that point, but I don't have the massive calluses any more.

[MWH0086]

My first Beretta was an MD M9. It ate the shit out of my hands. When I switched to the TN made LTT, I don't have nearly the problems. Now days, I'm not putting in the round counts I was at that point, but I don't have the massive calluses any more.


The serrations aren't that great on the M9 and I guess I got lazy. The safety wasn't engaged so it was flipped up pointing towards the muzzle and I pulled it back hard on the serrations it slipped and this is going to take a month to heal and maybe a clinic visit for some stitches. In it's defense I've got old geezer hands. Gonna start wearing gloves from now on. I have some real nice tactile range gloves. All I was doing was clearing the breach why I flipped the safety off .. I guess because I had just cleared my SA-35 and you have to flip the safety off to pull the slide back. This is one of those things I will never do again.