How can I “pretty up” a trade-in 64?

[dogcaller]

Not sure if this is better here or the Armorer section, feel free to move or tell me to move it...

I have a police trade in 64 that I’d like to dress up a bit. I purchased some nice VZ grips which certainly helped. The finish just looks a bit “scuzzy,” almost like there it just needs to be scrubbed a bit. Is it crazy to take a Scotch-Brite pad to it? Or maybe a really mild polishing agent and a felt-wheeled Dremel?

I don’t want to do damage (make it worse), obviously.

Thanks!

[Duelist]

People polish them mirror bright, others head blast them. I’d go for evening out any patterned ugly scratches, maybe. One of the good things about stainless is that you can touch it up without having to reblue it. One of the bad things is that for some people, finish worn stainless is just scratched up, uglified, and worn stainless, where finish worn blueing is “history” and “stories to tell.”

[dogcaller]

People polish them mirror bright, others head blast them. I’d go for evening out any patterned ugly scratches, maybe. One of the good things about stainless is that you can touch it up without having to reblue it. One of the bad things is that for some people, finish worn stainless is just scratched up, uglified, and worn stainless, where finish worn blueing is “history” and “stories to tell.”

Thanks. What would you recommend regarding how to polish?

Also, that’s a good point about blue vs. stainless.

[HeavyDuty]

I've used Scotchbrite pads to clean up stainless guns for years. It’s easy and fast, and doesn’t damage.

[mmc45414]

Most know, but if you want to try bead blast, the media must be pure. If you use a cabinet that had ferrous metal blasted in it tiny bits can get embedded into the stainless and rust.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[okie john]

Thanks. What would you recommend regarding how to polish?

Also, that’s a good point about blue vs. stainless.

The S&W Forum probably has multiple threads on how to go from matte to mirror finish or vice versa.


Okie John

[Duelist]

Thanks. What would you recommend regarding how to polish?

Also, that’s a good point about blue vs. stainless.


I've used Scotchbrite pads to clean up stainless guns for years. It’s easy and fast, and doesn’t damage.


The S&W Forum probably has multiple threads on how to go from matte to mirror finish or vice versa.


Okie John

Explore S&W Forum. There are lots of threads about using scotchbrite pads, Maguires, Mother’s Mag, and other products to produce different results.

Beware that truly polishing something that started out matte may affect future value, or interest from potential purchasers.

[okie john]

Beware that truly polishing something that started out matte may affect future value, or interest from potential purchasers.

This. I've seen things that would justify having to pass a background check to buy Flitz.


Okie John

[HeavyDuty]

I’ve been slowly bumperizing my Ruger 5152 using Mother’s, but it started out bright. I think bright polish stainless working guns just do not compute.

[SeriousStudent]

I’ve been slowly bumperizing my Ruger 5152 using Mother’s, but it started out bright. I think bright polish stainless working guns just do not compute.


I could not agree more. I love a gun with character.

Unless it's got real pits that would make Neil Armstrong look for another landing spot, I leave them the way they are. I'm certainly not the OP trying to sell a pistol to the general public, however.

[Brian T]

I have had a love affair with the Model 64 since I was a kid, because Dallas PD issued them. Hall Street Shootut by Dallas PD Captain E.R. Walt (Ret) dives into this. Both his books should be mandatory reading here.


Here's what I plan on doing to my two S&W 64-6 RBs, and what I will send them off for

I will:

Chamfer the charge holes

Apex Evolution DAO trigger

Swap out an older factory trigger that I will round off

Older stainless cylinder release, unless I can find a second stainless Ed Brown cylinder release (yeah, right)

Glass bead blast the guns (they are icky)

Cerakote the rear sight ledge and trough flat black

VZ 320 grips, black, not sure if finger grooves or plan. Maybe one of each.


Karl Sokol will:

Chop & crown the barrel to 3"

Dovetail and install 1911 front sight I will supply (Warren FO .115)

Stipple the backstrap

Stipple a portion of the side plate (I am left handed and shoot slightly thumbs forward, I shall embrace your hates)

[Brian T]

Sorry

[HeavyDuty]

Cerakote the rear sight ledge and trough flat black


Can that be done with a brush? I’ve never had much long term luck with flat model enamel no matter how much surface prep I do, and even after baking under a IR lamp.

[Trooper224]

Grey scotchbrite will give a good satin finish, just be sure to use oil as well. Don't do it dry. The sword and dagger in my avatar are an example of the result.

[TGS]

I have a police trade in 64 that I’d like to dress up a bit.



Beware that truly polishing something that started out matte may affect future value, or interest from potential purchasers.

Yes, definitely something to note. As someone that has found two retired revolvers from my agency which had been modified (one gold nitrided, the other polished mirror bright), I think it behooves us to ensure there's no way to trace retired police guns back to a specific agency such as department markings, specific SKUs, serial numbers, etc before modifying the finish and ruining a piece of history. If you're going to alter it from the original finish type, might be worth it to letter the gun from Jinks and make sure know what you've got before doing something irreversible.

[LtDave]

If you want to touchup to match the original brushed stainless finish on the older S&W's, this is what you want:

3M Trizact 3000 grit sandpaper.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-03064-Trizact-Performance-Sandpaper/dp/B005RNGL9O/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2K149NLHB55PQ&dchild=1&keywords=3m+3000+trizact&qid=1613334683&sprefix=3m+3000%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-6

It results in an almost exact match. I've also used it on a Freedom Arms .454 with excellent results. They also have a 5000 grit, but I haven't used it.

If you want your gun shiny, then Simichrome, a cotton cloth and some elbow grease will do the trick. Don't use power equipment.

[Brian T]

Can that be done with a brush? I’ve never had much long term luck with flat model enamel no matter how much surface prep I do, and even after baking under a IR lamp.

I dunno, but I have seen the guys at Infinity Finishes do very fine detail work with their brushes.

[dogcaller]

Many thanks to all for the suggestions! I’m really just trying to take the scuz off and get back to a clean matte brushed finish. Certainly nothing bright or “polished.”

While I appreciate the warning, I’m not sure what Jinks is, and I’m not trying to change the fundamental character of the piece—more like restoring it to a better, previous state. If this fails, I may eventually have it bead blasted, though that would be going deeper into the well than expected or desired.

[Wondering Beard]

I’m not sure what Jinks is,

He is referring to Roy Jinks, Smith and Wesson historian, who can provide you with a letter of authenticity (http://www.swhistoricalfoundation.com/info.html) for your gun.

[Oldherkpilot]

Stipple a portion of the side plate (I am left handed and shoot slightly thumbs forward, I shall embrace your hates)

Thumb prints are overrated anyway!😁 Thanks for the book tip, I'll check your guy out.

[Poconnor]

Let’s see a photo of your 64

[Borderland]

Explore S&W Forum. There are lots of threads about using scotchbrite pads, Maguires, Mother’s Mag, and other products to produce different results.

Beware that truly polishing something that started out matte may affect future value, or interest from potential purchasers.

I've used Mothers Mag and Alum. polish and a cotton rag with good results. I have a stainless Gold Cup that gets hammered and polished stainless finish is the worst finish out there.