Schooling Requested: 28 Gauge O/U

[SCCY Marshal]

The youngest (closer to teen than tyke) is not a fan of hard kickers but needs a shotgun. Twenty-eight gauge seems just the ticket despite limited load availability. So I just ordered her a Stevens 555 base model with extractors rather than ejectors to save the precious hulls. Handloading is very much going to be indicated, make top-off loading easy, and I don't like littering plastic in the hunting fields anyway.

That said, I have zero experience with the gauge or doubles for that matter. Could therefore use a soundboard.

Use: Hand-thrown clays, squirrel, hare, 'coon, ruffed grouse, crow, feral pigeon, turkey, and the like.

Cover: Tight young growth in labyrinthine logging trails. Steep mountainsides.

Seasons: Four but autumn, early winter, early spring for field use.

Current Theory: Find the barrel which pri ts closest to POA and choke it more tightly. Other barrel choked more open with selector set to fire first for snap shots at ose flushing game with other selectable for longer shots. 28 gauge versus 410 bore for more shot, less shot stringing, and bit easier connection on the wing. Shells are also available right now. Double barrel for light weight and fit to youth with bonus break-action for ease of supervision. Shame 28 gauge single barrels are hens teeth with a price to match.

Ammo: Ordered a bit of #6 and 275 rounds of #7 1/2. See if the six shot patterns respectably as a hopeful primary game load. Smaller shot as substitute-standard and practice unless it patterns notably better in which case default to it. Or would 7 1/2 in the open choke and #6 innthe tighter one make sense despite the added administrative thought involved?

Not asking for validation in the purchase. But rather advice in running what has been bought within its intended usage. I'm sure someone here has spent some time swatting critters with a twenty-eight.

[ranger]

I can't speak about critters but I used to shoot a lot of 28 gauge at clay targets in sub-gauge Sporting Clays. There is something magic about 28 gauge that it hits above its weight class. I have a Remington 1100 Sporting Clays 28 gauge that I bought for my wife, had stock shortened but had spacer made for my length of pull. She shot it once so it spends it life set for my LOP. If it were not for price of shells - I would shoot it all the time.

[flyrodr]

Back in the '70s, a fishing buddy of mine "shot his way" through college on a 5-man skeet team (4 shooters, 1 sub). Link below is a write-up of some of the team and individual records they set back then.

https://shotgunsportsmagazine.com/blog/cosmic-cowboys

Main point, in what is an objective skeet range setting (realism can be debated, but since shots are taken at fixed stations, distances, etc., differences between .410 and 28 gauge are pretty much gun-related (OK, and shooter-related).

Numbers like: 497 x 500 with .410, a 386 run with .410 (friend Rick), 499 x 500 with 28 gauge.

So, I think either would work, but the 28 might be a bit more versatile.

[farscott]

I am a fan of the 28-gauge, shooting it in everything from a Browning BPS and Citori to a Benelli Ultra Light. For small game or clays with an O/U, I prefer shooting the tighter-choked barrel first and using the more open-choked barrel for second shots. I would stick with the #7-1/2 shot for smaller birds and use #6 only for larger game or well-insulated game. I would stick to 3/4-ounce loads around 1200 fps if she is recoil sensitive.

You are on the right path by patterning the gun. Varying the shot hardness can also impact perceived choke. Softer shot will provide a pattern akin to a more-open choke, and harder shot will tighten up the pattern. You also need to make sure it fits her as that drives POA/POI.

[Brian T]

Its a fantastic gauge that throws a very nice pattern. I like it far better than 20 gauge, but that affection is derived from just leasure shooting, not in any competitive or hunting scenario. I always thought that trap and skeet should have adopted 12-16-28-410 instead of omitting 16 gauge and adding 20. There used to be buckshot loads for it, and I know there are still buckshot recipes. Every Walmart in Texas carries at least some 28 gauge, and the dedicated sporting goods stores offer more. I dont know what area you're in, but I hope its the same.

[Oldherkpilot]

The youngest (closer to teen than tyke) is not a fan of hard kickers but needs a shotgun. Twenty-eight gauge seems just the ticket despite limited load availability. So I just ordered her a Stevens 555 base model with extractors rather than ejectors to save the precious hulls. Handloading is very much going to be indicated, make top-off loading easy, and I don't like littering plastic in the hunting fields anyway.

That said, I have zero experience with the gauge or doubles for that matter. Could therefore use a soundboard.

Use: Hand-thrown clays, squirrel, hare, 'coon, ruffed grouse, crow, feral pigeon, turkey, and the like.

Cover: Tight young growth in labyrinthine logging trails. Steep mountainsides.

Seasons: Four but autumn, early winter, early spring for field use.

Current Theory: Find the barrel which pri ts closest to POA and choke it more tightly. Other barrel choked more open with selector set to fire first for snap shots at ose flushing game with other selectable for longer shots. 28 gauge versus 410 bore for more shot, less shot stringing, and bit easier connection on the wing. Shells are also available right now. Double barrel for light weight and fit to youth with bonus break-action for ease of supervision. Shame 28 gauge single barrels are hens teeth with a price to match.

Ammo: Ordered a bit of #6 and 275 rounds of #7 1/2. See if the six shot patterns respectably as a hopeful primary game load. Smaller shot as substitute-standard and practice unless it patterns notably better in which case default to it. Or would 7 1/2 in the open choke and #6 innthe tighter one make sense despite the added administrative thought involved?

Not asking for validation in the purchase. But rather advice in running what has been bought within its intended usage. I'm sure someone here has spent some time swatting critters with a twenty-eight.

This may be more of a concern with 12 and 20s, but ordinarily the lower barrel is fired first to make recoil less of a factor for the second shot. I have heard nothing but good words for the.28. Glad to hear you're taking care of the next generation of shooters.

[willie]

I hunt with the 28 gauge and find it a joy to shoot. Be aware that beyond 35 yards effectiveness decreases. I urge you to put a skeet choke in the bottom barrel and an improved cylinder in the top barrel. This combination increases hit probability.The modified choke will be too tight between for the first 30 yards. The gauge is not suited for so called long range shots. The lighter shot charge produces patterns that are more sparse than 20's and 12's, and for this reason the 28 ga is best used at ranges of 35 yards and less. I have made shots at longer range but some luck was involved. Consider having a premium recoil pad installed, and at this time you may determine that reducing stock length by 1/2 inch or so will improve fit.

Choke tube interchangeability charts are available should you decide to buy other tubes. Some break open shotguns reset the safety when opening action. Others do not. Ascertain what this model does and train the shooter appropriately.I urge you to send in the warranty paperwork to Stevens and keep your receipt. Determine early if barrels shoot off to one side or too high or too low. I give this advice regardless of brand. Stevens has a good customer service rep. Fioochi makes premium shells for this gauge. A tad of grease on the hinge is a good idea.You can find others at custom loaders. Google.

[SCCY Marshal]

...the 28 ga is best used at ranges of 35 yards and less...

...Fioochi makes premium shells for this gauge...

Out grouse flush close, fast, and are behind hard cover in a blink. The range limitation will conveniently be enforced by our primary game. Given the overlap with squirrel season, we'll have to think about the choke in the second barrel after patterning since it'd be nice to knock one out of a tree. Second shots on grouse are very, very rare around here so a different game animal with overlapping season may trump two more open chokes. I'll start her patterning with your suggestion, though.

And glad to hear about Fiocchi. Have 75 rounds of their Golden Pheasant #6 shot and 275 rounds of their Shooting Dynamics High Velocity #7 1/2. Nice to hear that fat chunk of change will likely work out well.

[Jim Watson]

14.5" pull will likely be a lot too long for the YL. Do not be bashful about cutting it to fit. Most good Trap, Skeet, SC clubs have a contact for a stock fitter who can figure the length and do a neat job with it. Include a substantial recoil pad, 5.5 lbs is a light gun even in a light gauge.

[farscott]

14.5" pull will likely be a lot too long for the YL. Do not be bashful about cutting it to fit. Most good Trap, Skeet, SC clubs have a contact for a stock fitter who can figure the length and do a neat job with it. Include a substantial recoil pad, 5.5 lbs is a light gun even in a light gauge.

The light weight is a factor. My Benelli Ultra Light is a bit over five pounds. Great for carrying and for small-game hunting. Nice for a round of clays. After that, the recoil does take its toll.

[SCCY Marshal]

The shell order was split up and a full 250 round case of #7 1/2 was just dropped off. Four boxes are tape marked for the rainy day stash, two are going in my hunting gear crate, remaining four ready to wrap.

When the #6 comes in, one box will be for patterning and such while the other two go in the hunting crate. Lonely straggler of #7 1/2 will be used by me to function check the Stevens and start breaking it in.

Next ammo expenditure will be some field grade 16 and 20 gauge between #6 and #4 then back to grabbing the odd handful of 28 gauge. Any specific suggestions for recoil pads since the gun is on its way to my dealer?

[Jim Watson]

It has been a long time since I messed with a shotgun but the big names are Pachmayr Decelerator and Kick-eez.

[P.E. Kelley]

The 555 is a excellent choice and the 555 in 28 was one I made and gave to my niece.

As mentioned the 28 hits above its weight. I would not saddle a new shooter with a 410 as patterns
often suck in comparison to the 28 (long shot column is thought to be the cause)

GUN FIT cannot emphasized enough! Please cut and fit it to her!

[Brian T]

Wiley’s Gun Shop in Wills Point, Texas

661126611266112

[willie]

About no. 6 shot. The fairly light charge weight of shot in a 28 GA will produce sparse patterns because there are so many fewer no. 6 pellets. Consult a chart to verify and compare. This gauge with large shot and sparse patterns will discourage a young shooter. Some consider it an expert's shotgun anyway. I oz loads in this very light shotgun will kick. They may not pattern well because the small bore will distort some pellets. This GA is a 35 gun. Smaller shot make it work because they fill out the pattern.

[SteveB]

I hunt with the 28 gauge and find it a joy to shoot. Be aware that beyond 35 yards effectiveness decreases. I urge you to put a skeet choke in the bottom barrel and an improved cylinder in the top barrel. This combination increases hit probability.The modified choke will be too tight between for the first 30 yards. The gauge is not suited for so called long range shots. The lighter shot charge produces patterns that are more sparse than 20's and 12's, and for this reason the 28 ga is best used at ranges of 35 yards and less. I have made shots at longer range but some luck was involved. Consider having a premium recoil pad installed, and at this time you may determine that reducing stock length by 1/2 inch or so will improve fit.

This is excellent advice. I shot a lot of pheasant when I lived in CT, and my Beretta Silver Pigeon was set up just like this.

[mmc45414]

I want a 28ga because they are cool, and if on the wild chance I would shoot a skeet tournament I could at least do three of the four guns with it.

But I ended up with a 20ga, but I do reload, and it is pretty easy to do 3/4oz (did 100 targets last night).

All good that you are getting a 28ga, just throwing this out as well.

[Borderland]

No experience with a 28 ga but I always wanted to try one hunting. In the UK they are known as a sub gauge for women and children which makes sense. Everyone else shoots a 12ga in the field. I don't believe ga. has as much to do with hunting as many people believe it does unless we start talking about steel shot and waterfowl. The smaller gauges are just as effective if pattern (choke) and shot size are considered, for most game.

Your shot selection seems appropriate and a double will give you some choke management. I used a sxs with double triggers for more choke management but a barrel selector will do the same thing more or less. I also used a Beretta sxs with a barrel selector. I hunted ruffed grouse, quail, huns and chukar with 7 1/2. It was all I ever needed. When you get to bunnies, pheasant and turkey heavier shot is the ticket.

Regarding POI/POA, doubles are regulated to the same POI/POA at a certain distance. IIRC that's 40 yards so I don't believe that to be an issue, especially with mod and IC chokes. I was a huge fan of IC for upland birds and even skt or no choke for grouse. That was using a dog to flush or point.

With choke tubes and a barrel selector you can dial in whatever you want with the game and cover that you hunt. For instance, hunting grouse in heavy cover I like the open choke first then the more constricted choke if I missed the first shot. That would be the case with most upland. Turkey would be different with both barrels tightly choked.

A pattern board is essential if you want to optimize your loads and chokes.

Here's a good forum for upland hunters. You will be inundated with excellent info there. It's what they do.

https://uplandjournal.ipbhost.com/

Word of caution. Pay no attention to the dog elitists. They get wrapped around the axel with that topic. ;)

[SCCY Marshal]

Picked it up, today. Not surprised to confirm that the stock needs trimmed. Am surprised that it fits me pretty well.

It arrived choked IC over C but I had a hunch and rechoked M over C. Using the 3/4 ounce charge of Fiocchi 7 1/2, it showed promise. At 15 yards, both were still fairly tight with the modified barrel being notably moreso. The 25 yard line showed the cylinder bore getting to its limit and the modified doing very well. Despite the 25 yard line's indications, cylinder was still good for a grouse and modified for a bunny or squirrel with a few more pellets total in my marked tatget zones. In this case, sideways B-27 ten rings. I was looking for several in the X and fair few in the 10 with the paper catching more of the pattern to quickly look for signs of voids. I think we may end up further tightening the top barrel in the end for tree rats.

But I'll leave it here for now and save any choke tweaking for the kiddo's experience. We'll see how the mod. choke throws #6 before getting ahead of ourselves.

[SCCY Marshal]

More notes for my own future reference:

- At 35 yards, the modified pattern looks and has a pellet count vert similar to the 25 yard cylinder bore performance. While thee cyl. choke got lucky at 35 with pellet count in the preferred target zone, just on the lower left corner of that was a large void. Given that 7 1/2 shot is light, I'd leave it choked M/C

- I am very happy with 7 1/2 three-quarter ounce shells through the cylinder choke. Expected the payload to have trouble getting out to 25 yards as it's around my personal limit for 1oz 16 gauge loads of #6 in my chopped guns. But it looks perfect for partridge. Need this ammo rush over so I can score some Brenneke slugs and try out, as well.

- Just like my 16s, modified seems to give almost exactly ten extra yards of usable range. Also like my 16s, the 28 just seems to want to pattern well. Maybe the old duffers were on to something, as usual.

- Kid needs to pattern the #6 through the modified, improved modified, and full chokes. The 7 1/2 is lighter than I like for bunnies and nutters. Not to say I stand much chance of getting her to drop the hammer on a rabbit.

- Definitely need to make a focused point of dry manipulation after kiddo goes to bed so I can have this action loosened up by the big day. Application of grease right out of the box helped but it has a loooong way to go.

- Trigger pull on the top barrel is notably heavier than the bottom. Either is better than the Magtech 199 single-shots I've spent time with so no real complaint.

- Need to come up with simple dry and live drills for the safety/selector. That is very much going to require reps to build automaticity. Especially given that it is not automatic.

- Similar to above but regarding discretion versus physical manipulation, drills to work barrel selection in the field. Probably just be target at unknown range from seven to 40 yards. Get a bead, fire, and check pattern density on target withing a par time to prevent dilly-dallying. Would double as a test of safety/selector usage in the field.

- I think I like the mechanical trigger. Particularly at this price point. Don't think I'd trust a fancier system to last.

- No signs of doubling, so far. Barrel selector also looking good.

- The frame size is nice. For me, it carries a treat. Just stepping up to a twenty, it would go from doable for a slender kid to a pig.

- The 7/8 ounce charges of #6 are going to be sporty in this lightweight. Will start keeping an eye out for 3/4 ounce loads of it to compare.

- Extractors were the correct choice over ejectors. In addition to hull management and saved money for ammo, it will be handy for breaking the gun open when crossing obstacles. Don't know how that didn't cross my mind before purchase or any point before I broke it in half to hopscotch across an icy brook on the way to the logyard.

- It's officially time to save up for a Mec. Or two since wife wants to spend more time with her 410, God help me. Every person in the house is officially running a different gauge. Only one of them has promo loads available. It's mostly my fault.

- Turkey season is getting closer and I need to remember a tighter choke for older child's Mossy 510.

[SCCY Marshal]

Went back out to public land to continue testing and break-in and did some modified choke patterning on paper stapled to a dead trunk. The 7/8oz loads of plated #6 are good out to 35 yards, which is as far as I personally care to sling #6, anyway. On the local hare, that's about the limit of them breaking bone to get through a leg into the chest or passing at least through the inner chest cavity. Recoil was not noticeably greater than the 3/4 ounce loads but I'm a dude of six foot stature. The top barrel seemed pretty well on at the 45 yard line as a bonus.

Definitely leaving it choked mod. over cyl. when I gift it to the youngest.

The stiff action is starting to ease up, particularly the latch lever. Barrel selector still working. Safety functional. Top barrel Favorite FFL has a decent stock of mid-grade 28 gauge I'll start buying a box of here and there as spare cash crops up.

Glad the little thing seems agreeable, so far.

[SCCY Marshal]

Bob Ross smiles upon me with the blessing of a Happy Little Accident.

For cheap amusement, cut the crimp off a 7 1/2 shot high velocity Fiocchi shell to make a wax slug. Noticed the shot cup was rather short so a good chunk of shell volume was filled with naked pellets. Little buggers are unlabeled spreader loads. Naked pellets up front to evenly spread the pattern with about 1/2 to 2/3 of the payload in a shot cup for more metered spread to keep the center dense. Neat.