RFI: DIY Glock / RMR milling experiences?

[JTPHD]

I've been researching options for mounting an RMR to my G19.5, and saw a Kit Badger video where he had a local machine shop to do the milling work instead of sending his slide out. He contacted Trijicon for the RMR footprint dimensions and used the instructions from this site: https://rifleshooter.com/2015/07/milling-a-glock-slide-for-a-trijicon-rmr/

Does anyone have experience with going this route? I have a friend that teaches machining and has access to the equipment.

My main reasons for pursuing this route are cost (free) and no/minimal lead time. Just interested to hear others' experiences. Thanks!

[JRB]

I haven't ever milled on a pistol slide but I've got a LOT of experience working with a variety of machinists for custom parts/components etc and setting appropriate specs/realistic goals and what not.

Ultimately there's not going to be a good 'general' consensus with something like this because every machinist/machine shop is a totally different beast. They're all awful at some things, okay at others, and a few are truly excellent in some lanes but that's rare these days. I've known one machinist ever that would absolutely ALWAYS get it right but his time and effort is not cheap - most of his work is on DoD widgets these days.

In short, a shop offering RMR milling has done the R&D to offer a consistent result and that usually takes ruining at least a few pieces before you have it 100% right.
So by the time they're up and going publicly offering that service, they've fine-tuned everything from how the slide is braced inside the machine to specific bits, tooling packages, tool speed, lube etc and these programs are incredibly proprietary and specific to the machines/tooling/bits etc that shop uses.

Does that mean a skilled machinist can't pick up a Glock slide, look at RMR drawing specs, and look at other milled Glock slides and get it right the first time? No - but it'll take time and attention to detail that would normally cost a customer A LOT more money than just sending it off.

If you've got a machinist friend that's interested in doing it for kicks, awesome. But do make sure you bring him a cheeseburger and/or a 12 pack of his favorite beer, as good machinists tend to be hermits that forget to eat, etc.

[JTPHD]

Thank you for your feedback, JRB!

I am going to investigate some more and discuss those considerations you brought up with him. I want to proceed slowly with this before attempting anything. And, I will certainly pay him for his efforts- honestly more concerned about the lead times than cost.

[Casual Friday]

For RMR milling, I want either the recoil bosses or the Zev threaded posts. The Kit Badger slide had neither iirc so all the force is being applied to the screws. Hard pass on that.

I would not trust any old machinist that was local but if you're willing to risk it for the cost savings then I say go for it.

[tlong17]

$150 to CHPWS for a super tight mill job with recoil bosses and Zev posts is cheap insurance for a cut that holds the optic, is aligned properly, stands up to hard use, and has a reputation. Also makes it easier to resell. If I’m going to cut a hunk of material off my slide I’m going to pay a little extra to be sure that shit is done right by a proven pro. Just my thoughts.

[JRB]

Thank you for your feedback, JRB!

I am going to investigate some more and discuss those considerations you brought up with him. I want to proceed slowly with this before attempting anything. And, I will certainly pay him for his efforts- honestly more concerned about the lead times than cost.

IMHO, I'd rather wait on a known, consistent finished result than 'have it now' with a guy doing it all for the first time with all the corresponding inherent risks.

I'm also with my buddy Casual Friday on the absence of the recoil studs. No point doing a half-ass DIY.

[vcdgrips]

The saved juice is not remotely worth the squeeze. Send it out to somebody who knows what they are doing.

[JAD]

Slides are hardened and relatively difficult to machine well. RMR installations have features which have significant position and dimension.

[Caballoflaco]

Since you weren’t specific and are worried about lead time I have to ask if this is your only gun? If it is use the red dot money to buy a second gun first.

If it isn’t your only gun then another option would be to find and buy an oem slide to send out and get milled.

And last but not least, if dude screws up your slide will he be buying you a new one?

[noguns]

I had a slide milled by a reputable company that is mentioned on this forum often. They damaged my slide but provided me with another factory slide. I would not risk sending my slide for a machine shop to experiment with. Would a generic machine shop provide you with a new slide to hack up if they mess up the first time?

[mmc45414]

I have also looked into this, utilizing a friend's help who has been successful in life doing things a lot more complex than this. One of our thoughts was that if we proved it out, it would be easy to replicate. The CNC process makes leaving the bosses straightforward, but we have considered using dowel pins instead, I would not skip them. Really, if custom shops can do this for $160 and make money then it is not all that complicated, they have just put the effort into getting a proven CNC setup established and then they can push a button.

But doing this to your only/primary gun would be a bold move, though with a Glock there are a buttload of aftermarket replacement options. We were more like "What the hell, we could do this!" and I was going to do it to one of my M&Ps and I have several of them, including a 1.0 with an Apex barrel that would be perfect for it. And I am getting to the point in my life where I can afford to take a bit of a risk on stuff like this with a gun that is just sitting in a safe and not worth all that much anyway.
ETA: The linked article used a police trade G22 that he paid $300 for in 2015 and was probably rapidly declining in value...

But before we ever got around to spending what would surely be most of a whole day on a Saturday I got one of the Performance Center CORE 1.0 slides (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?44075-M-amp-P-Core&p=1159137&viewfull=1#post1159137) I dropped onto my M&P-40 and I plan to use that as a basis for deciding if I want to go down the red dot rabbit hole. But if I like it I may revisit this direct mill idea.

[DaBigBR]

I started a couple replies right after the thread was posted and kept getting pulled away. It looks like most of it has been said. For one slide, or even five slides... Just pay somebody to do it right. CHPWS, Jager Weeks, Maple Leaf, L&M, ATEI...there are just too many good shops that are essentially known quantities.

Maple Leaf is $125 and offers a very generous LE/MIL discount. They've done my last couple but I wouldn't hesitate to use anybody I listed or several I can't think of.

[mmc45414]

Does anyone have experience with going this route?
I also had another thought, probably nobody (including me...) has any experience doing it because the shops with CNC are doing them pretty cheap. Another aspect of this I thought of in follow up is that if you plan to dovetail for the backup iron sights that is going to take a specific tool, your friend will either have to be able to grind tools or you buy one, and they are oddballs that probably cost $40-$50 just for that cutter.

[HeavyDuty]

$150 to CHPWS for a super tight mill job with recoil bosses and Zev posts is cheap insurance for a cut that holds the optic, is aligned properly, stands up to hard use, and has a reputation. Also makes it easier to resell. If I’m going to cut a hunk of material off my slide I’m going to pay a little extra to be sure that shit is done right by a proven pro. Just my thoughts.

I didn’t realize CHPWS could cut for both a MOS plate and a forward position BUIS. The website mentions full sized Glocks, I think I need to ask if they can do that on my 26.5.

[JTPHD]

You all have brought up some good points. As per usual, this forum has helped me gain more understanding. After considering the options it's not worth the risk for me. I'm going to send it to an experienced slide milling provider and call it a day. Thanks for your input, everyone!

[Mark D]

You all have brought up some good points. As per usual, this forum has helped me gain more understanding. After considering the options it's not worth the risk for me. I'm going to send it to an experienced slide milling provider and call it a day. Thanks for your input, everyone!


Good choice, I think. For what it's worth, Battlewerx has a sale on optic cuts right now. Glocks start at $75. They did a nice job on my G19 - RMR is super snug. http://www.battlewerx.com/rmr-cut-glock/

ETA: that price does not include finishing. I prefer nitride or cerokote, but I know folks who will just use cold blue on the RMR cut and drive on.

[Catshooter]

If you have someone who can do it, or walk you through it and it's not your only piece, go for it. You'll learn plenty and have a ball doing it. It is a very simple job. It does have to be done to some decent tolerances and done correctly but it's basically quite simple.

One thing to remember is that Tenifer is very hard, but very shallow. You'll need carbide end mills. Once you're through the Tenifer the slide isn't hardened so normal drills will do the job.


Cat

[HeavyDuty]

I didn’t realize CHPWS could cut for both a MOS plate and a forward position BUIS. The website mentions full sized Glocks, I think I need to ask if they can do that on my 26.5.

If anyone cares, CHPWS said there shouldn’t be a problem milling a 26.5 for either of these.

[DaBigBR]

If anyone cares, CHPWS said there shouldn’t be a problem milling a 26.5 for either of these.

The slide is dimensionally identical other than the overall length. Everything up to the breechface is 100% the same.

[HeavyDuty]

The slide is dimensionally identical other than the overall length. Everything up to the breechface is 100% the same.

I understand, but their website said “GLOCK (Standard Size or larger 19, 17, 34, 40)” so I thought it best to ask before assuming.