2006 Vintage SIG GSR With Evolutionary Empirically Derived Improvements

[JonInWA]

I have a 2006 vintage GSR XO, which several years ago I posted a fairly detailed discussion on-it's in the link in the body of this thread- I believe is one of the first XOs released. Back then the XO was a combination of two things:1) A slightly decontented SIG GSR, aimed for the price-point buyer or one just wanting a basic essential 1911, and 2) a vehicle for moving some GSR's with consmetic blemishes, but otherwise fully functional uncompromised components. Mine was purchased from a high volume local dealer in May of 2006, and was one of later beneficiaries from Matt McLearn's production efforts with SIGARMS.

Our p-f thread(s) on 1911s have prompted me to discuss my journey on one of my particular 1911s here (non-withstanding the argument from some rabid 1911 purist afficianados that the SIG 1911s really aren't 1911s per se....) Jason Burton's 2019 Ballistic Radio podcast ( reposted here: http://ballisticradio.com/2019/06/04/two-world-wars-podcast-season-7-ballistic-radio-episode-296-may-19th-2019/
was particulary instrumental in framing a lot of the things that I had done to the GSR (albeit the realization on my part was after the fact, as I heard the podcast for the first time just a couple of days ago, thanks to our p-f discussions...). Ultimately, I had what was the basis for an excellent gun, but with some massaging-some immediate, some empirically derived over tie and use. I've been the beneficiary of some excellent work and guidance, and associations over the years which have been vital for the ongoing process and results.

It is what I term a Generation 2 GSR, in that it had the exceptionally high quality vendor-provided components, but after SIG took over manufacturing of the frames and barrels from Caspian and Storm Lake respectively. SIG had also belatedly realized that 1911 production, epecially 1911 production involving outsourced components required a higher quality trained assembly crew as such 1911s simply aren't a plug-and-play proposition. 2004 and 2005 production provided a fairly steep learning curve for SIG in that...

My personal GSR has been thoroughly gone over by two eminently qualified senior gunsmiths at SIG; the late Mike Guarnieri, who was a personal friend of many years (although we never physically met), and Izhak Ariel, who at the time he worked on mine was the overall head of SIG assembly, including the custom shop.

https://i.imgur.com/XL0fkAoh.jpg

Additionally, mine has served as a long-term beta test bed for one of Bruce Gray GrayGuns' barstock replacement extractors, and is exclusively fed with a variety of series of Check-Mate Industry's 1911 magazines, as I'm one of their sponsored shooters and head of the factory team in the Seattle metro area. I've come to prefer their carbon steel hybrid feed lip, welded baseplate, skirted and dimpled followered 7 round magazines in a "traditional" welded baseplate 1911 magazine, and their carbon steel 8 round extended tube removable baseplate magazines, also with the skirted follower. My administratively loaded carry magazine has a bare baseplate for increased concealment; my reload welded baseplate carry magazines have screwed on polymer basepad additions for a more secure reload experience. In the 8 round extended tube magazines, I have come to also prefer carbon steel tubes, as I think they have a lesser tendency to permit feed lip splay over time and use; I have them in a variety of finishes.. I also like the Check-Mate produced P3LLC CerTac Cereberus 8 round stainless steel magazine, with a skirded, but non-dimpled follower and semi-wadcutter profile. feed lips. All of my 1911 magazines have high performance springs as well. If you want to maximize a drama-free magazine performance, these are the parameters I've found to work best for me.

https://i.imgur.com/Sj1U0jFh.jpg

As was the case with many 1911s, and the early SIG GSR line in particular, mine required some initial break in and repairs-here's a link detailing my early years: https://www.1911addicts.com/threads/2006-vintage-generation-2-sigarms-gsr-xo.744/#post-11014

Recently, I've become associated with BH Spring Solutions, and am field testing a number of their springs and aftermarket components: this is an offshoot (every pun intended...) from my concurrent testing of their High Power components on my Mk III .40 High Power.

Mark and Slav have sent me several things; Their 1911 5" Series 80 Spring Optimized Replacement Kit, their RDIH Extended Slide Stop/Release, their RDIH Ambidexterous Magazine Release system, and a set of their checkered walnut Master's Grips. Additionally, I've fairly recently replaced the OEM recoil spring plug with an EGW Extended Nose one, to match the OM EW Wide Flange bushing, all of which I'll discuss in greater detail.

https://i.imgur.com/BMtlqqsh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1kQMKBgh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WuV8hQRh.jpg

Overall, I consider the Generation 2 GSR to be a superb entry- to intermediate level 1911, capable of exceptional performance, with very high quality components-mine was produced prior to the later component decontenting and lowered composition quality (i.e., Israeli and Indian mid-level MIM components). For a brief period (2005 to 2007 at the likely latest) a GSR was one of the best values in a 1911 available in my opinion. They offered, in addition to the high quality component set, a beveled slide and quality 25 LPI frontstrap checkering (the checkering started with the Generation 2 guns-the original Caspian frame guns had vertical serrations only)

Some of the OEM components were a bit controversial, such as the external extractor, the firing pin safety retention system (aka the manhole cover on the right side of the slide) and the Caspian vertical shark fin grip safety.

I have no problem with an external extractor on a 1911, provided that it's made of high quality sufficiently tensile steel-the original ones were of softer stainless steel, noted for their relative brittleness, hook chipping or breaking off; replacements were made frst by Bruce Gray, and then ultimately an improved OEM one by SIG themselves which completely resolved the issues). The "manhole cover" was a somewhat odd way of securing the FPS, but it worked, providing the cover didn't come loose (it was supposed to be Red Locktited in place by SIG, but apparently that wasn't always the case...). In later SIG 1911s, it was replaced with a faux extractor stub at the right rear of the slde which has worked without incident. The Caspian "shark fin" grip safety was reviled by some,both for it's non-tradtional appeareance and feel. I personally am a huge fan of it, as wherever your grip on it is, it'll effectively deactivate the grip safety as designed. I can see where griping it tightly for extended periods of time might be slightly uncomfortable, but that's been a total non-issue for me in normal carry, IDPA and range/competition use over the years.

https://i.imgur.com/4SuYmYLh.jpg

Another cosmetic change I made to mine was to replace the OEM checkered recoil spring plug with one of EGW's checkered long-nosed ones, to provide a match with the OEM EGW wide flange bushing. SIG's OEM plug was a standard one, which provided a bit of a stepped appeareance between the plug and flange. The OEM one worked just fine, I was just going for a minor aesthetic improvement. Interestingly, the EGW replacement used for both 5" and 4.25" slides is the shorter one optimized for the 4.25"-I checked, and they deliberately use the shorter one for both barrel lengths, as there's sufficient length in it to provide adequate support and performance for both.

https://i.imgur.com/WuV8hQRh.jpg

BH Spring Solutions has come up with some exceptional quality replacement springs for the High Power and recently has branched out to the 1911 platform. Over the years, I've had a variety of recoil springs in my GSR; in originally came with a Wolff 18.5' as OEM, and I experimented with various weights of conventional and variable rate springs, settling on the Wolff 15' conventional for my GSR (I prefer standard pressure 230 gr cartridges for all uses). BH Spring Solutions recommends observing the empty extracted case ejection patterns ad distances to determine and tune your recoil spring selection, with a 6'-8' distance with consistant patterning being recommended as ideal with standard pressure loads. While my 15' Wolff (which had about 500 rounds on it) performed acceptably withing these parameters, I found that the 16' BH SS spring patterned better, with consistant 6' ejection, so it's become my standard recoil spring.

BH Spring Solutions also as a close relationship with Leon Hubert, a retierd senior FN engineer, and owner of RDIH, a Belginan company producing high quality aftermarket components for High Powers, 1911s, and other Eurocentric platforms. I've found his components to be exceptionally wel conceived and very well manufactured. While I was pleased with the OEM Greider slide stop and SIG magazine release, I wanted to try RDIH's 1911 extended slide stop/release and ambidexterous magazine release, being very favorably impressed with his efforts on the High Power with these components.

https://i.imgur.com/M7JTtn3h.jpg

As in my High Power, they work, and do so without any operational compromises or hiccups. The ambi mag release system by necessity utilizes a slightly lighter actuating spring, but it's not so light as to induce unintended magazine ejection. The right side lever is just that-in mechanically levers the release of the magazine from the retention catch. I have found that it works better with 7 round welded baseplate, r 8 round rxtended tube magazines; 8 round welded baseplate magazines' spring compression makes it a bit more difficult to activate the release, particularly from the right side release shelf lever. It does not protrude excessively, so there's no issues with holstering or in use-it simply gives you another magazine release technique option if desired or situationally dictated.

https://i.imgur.com/1kQMKBgh.jpg

And then there's grips. Here are the grips that I've had on my GSR:

From left to right, VCD, Ergo Extreme, Magpul MOE, and SIG Dymondwood:

https://i.imgur.com/1yGgLFbh.jpg

And now the grips I'm currently running, matte checkered single-diamond walnut burl grips from BH Spring Solutions:

https://i.imgur.com/CxxhRu2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4SuYmYL.jpg

Here's the JonInWA grip analysis: Frankly, the OEM polymer Ergo Extreme grips and the VCD aggressively stippled polymer grips and the Magpul polymet textured grips perform superbly, and inexpensively. If it's simply operational effeciency you're seeking, either of these three are an excellent choice with the Magpuls being an exception value, at they cost only $19.95, and provide an exceptional laminar wedge profile, excellent texturing, and an aggressive thumb scoop for reaching the magazine release. The VCD's provide the best overall grip quality, and the Ergos are close behind. A requirement for any of my 1911 grips is that they provide adequate plunger tube support. I received my introduction to the VCD from Todd Green's experimentation on his Jason Burton 1911-he concluded that the combination of the improved grippability provided by the VCD grip stippling texture combined with an orange front sight was both quantifiable and paradigm-changing. I concur, but if you're on a tight budget, the MagPul grips are excellent, and a huge value. One warning caveat regarding David Barnes' VCD stippling texture: the edges can be sharp. If they tend to carve up your concealment garnment/sweater/jacket, you might want to lightly sand them down....

However, sometimes it just nice to get something that provides a bit of an upgraded look aesthetically, which is what the BH SS offering does. The walnuut figuring and checkering is excellent, and the left grip features a fairly subtle thumb scoop which I've found effective, and the right grip features a subtle shelf protrusion, like a gentle ridge, which fits my grip beautifully. My preference is to use Challis rubber O rings on my grips/grip screws to prevent screw back out under firing vibrations.

Sight wise, as I mentioned in the link article, I replaced the OEM Champion rear sight with a genuine Novak black wide notch (.140 notch) to pair with the OEM .125 Nvak contrast sight, which came with a white dot. I've modified that to provide a flourescent orange front sight face, with a dark blue dot; that provides both speedy acquisition and accuracy.

https://i.imgur.com/mYbwQeKh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zpAgTPzh.jpg

So there you have it. My GSR is definitely used, usually in a Blade Tech kydex IWB, but I'm eagerly awaiting one of Privateer Leather's OWB holsters made specifically for it. Eventually, I'd consider replacing the OEM spray-on, bake-in teflon finish with a higher tech nitron or nDLC finish, but the OEM finish provides adequate protection to the underlying stainless steel slide and frame, and has acquired "character" through honest use.

In a time of constrained ammunition availability, and possible upcoming magazine limit regulations, the 1911 is both of continued intrinsic use and value. Over time, I've added some incrimental improvements based on my empirical experience that I'd like to think comprise some worthwhile upgrades to Matt McLearn's and SIGARMS' original platform.

https://i.imgur.com/XL0fkAoh.jpg

Best, Jon

[45dotACP]

The Sig 1911s were always sort of the red headed step child of the 1911 world. Try as I might, I never could appreciate them. Tim Herron still has a 9mm version that he used for classes and demos when I took a class with him. I think he made GM with one.

The external extractor was my biggest hangup with the gun. I have the absolute worst luck with 1911s from the factory. I know for sure if I got a Sig or S&W they'd have inadequate extractor function and no way to exchange them, but now that EGW offers replacements it's not such a big deal.

I briefly considered one with a traditional slide, but for red headed step child 1911s I went the other way and bought one with a polymer frame.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

[JonInWA]

The Sig 1911s were always sort of the red headed step child of the 1911 world. Try as I might, I never could appreciate them. Tim Herron still has a 9mm version that he used for classes and demos when I took a class with him. I think he made GM with one.

The external extractor was my biggest hangup with the gun. I have the absolute worst luck with 1911s from the factory. I know for sure if I got a Sig or S&W they'd have inadequate extractor function and no way to exchange them, but now that EGW offers replacements it's not such a big deal.

I briefly considered one with a traditional slide, but for red headed step child 1911s I went the other way and bought one with a polymer frame.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

The problem with the OEM one that they initially used was that it was stainless steel, which was subject to chipping and/or fracturing. Bruce Gray made a replacement, and I believe subsequently did some small-scale production of, but then SIG themselves (or SIG and EGW-but I'm unsure of that; it's supposition on my part, and unverified) re-architected the extractor, both materially and design-wise, and I haven't heard of complaints with it since.

Generally, my hypothesis is that all things being equal (quality of design, springing, materials and manufacturing QC) I think an external extractor is simpler, easier to set up and longer-lived. On 1911s, not too many manufacturers have chosen to go that route, and fewer successfully-SIG and Smith and Wesson are the two that immediately come to mind. While I've only put 1900 rounds (ironically, as of December 19th, exactly 1900 rounds) through mine since Bruce Gray installed his extractor in mine (and mine was part of his beta test), I've literally had zero extraction or extraction-related issues. FWIW, I only use standard-pressure 230 gr factory ammunition in mine-usually Sellier & Bellot; for carry/duty use I prefer Speer Gold Dot, Remington Golden Saber, Federal Hydra Shok and Hornaday Critical Duty.

Best, Jon

[mwolf]

Good read, John. It has given me insights into my own circa 2015 Sig 1911’s. In each I replaced the slide stop with a WC part and the extractor with the EGW part, both direct drop-ins. The slide released fixed a failure to lock open after the last round in some mags. The factory extractor worked sufficiently, but the EGW part is a quality part for a very important function. They both have functioned reliably, tho this is just 2 data points. Are you aware of any other parts that would be good candidates for replacement (MIM)? Looking forward to other feedback in this thread.

[JonInWA]

And here it is with p-f member David Barnes' VCD grips, in Olive (basically I chose Olive to commemorate my Army service but hey, they look pretty decent-well, as decent as one of David's creations can...). Here's a link to his site:
http://www.vcdgrips.com/

These grips will win absolutely zero prizes for aesthetics. But their grippability is absolutely superb, something that Todd Green specifically commented on and lauded them for. And for $45 'Murrican, they're a great value.

As I've mentioned before, when you get them, carefully consider what clothing items will come into contact and rub against them; you may want to lightly sand the crater edges down. Let me put it this way: If you use these grips and your cover garnment is the expensive cashmere sweater your wife or significant other gave you as a special gift, these grips will eat them for lunch. And trust me, "Honey, my VCD grips carved holes in it" will not likely play out to a happy domestic ending....

Despite that, the grips are actually quite comfortable to hold in use. For a duty gun, they're flat out superb. I use a Challis O ring between the grip and each of the screws to mitigate against screw loosening and backing out in use. I much prefer them to Blue Locktite, especially when it comes to removing the screws. Blue Locktite isn't always that easy to break their seal...and burred and mangled screw heads can quickly morph into a regretful trip to one's gunsmith...

Much as I appreciate the aesthetics of the BH SS grips, and their feel, I'm going to revert back to the VCDs for a bit; in my last match, I did not fare well in a weak-hand only stage, and I think that the VCD's grippability will be of tangible assistance. Now I just have to place myself on concealed garnment alert...these suckers look hungry...

Best, Jon

https://i.imgur.com/mNQSpDlh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7rDulubh.jpg

[JonInWA]

Good read, John. It has given me insights into my own circa 2015 Sig 1911’s. In each I replaced the slide stop with a WC part and the extractor with the EGW part, both direct drop-ins. The slide released fixed a failure to lock open after the last round in some mags. The factory extractor worked sufficiently, but the EGW part is a quality part for a very important function. They both have functioned reliably, tho this is just 2 data points. Are you aware of any other parts that would be good candidates for replacement (MIM)? Looking forward to other feedback in this thread.

Be totally objective in your anticipated use of the gun. For casual occassional range use and some carry, if things are working well, I'd leave 'em alone. For harder use, such as duty, more regular and extensive shooting sessions and training, I'd suggest taking a very hard look at virtually every internal component. For the first several years, the GSR/Revolution was a bit of a flagship loss leader for SIG. After Cohen took over, things quickly became brutally pragmatic in terms of the bottom line, and the expensive, high quality aftermarket components spec'ced by Matt McLearn gradually, then more speedily with time went by the wayside, reportedly replaced with offshore MIM components, first from Israel and then from India. There's been some good testimony from a former SIG employee now working with one of the high-end aftermarket outfits that the MIM quality was only mid-level, and that there were additional QC issues (and not just with SIG's 1911s...). Any of SIG's 1911s produced after 2007/2008 should be examined component by component if you truly want it to be a hard use 1911 with longevity.

Here's what I'd suggest: Discuss your specific 1911 with a qualified 1911 gunsmith, and with a copy of Brownells/EGWs/Wilson Combats/Ed Brown's/Harrison's catalogues (well, web pages) in hand, select your ideal components. Then have your gunsmith fit and install them, because in all liklihood, things will not just drop into place-and even if they do, they still should be examined and fitted for the best possible match-up with the other components that they interface with, directly and/or indirectly. A 1911 quite simply isn't a Glock; unless you're a knowledgeable budding (or actual) gunsmith with access to the proper and necessary tools and expertise, 1911 gun Barbie should be left to responsible adults. Otherwise, there's an excellent chance you'll be providing a fertile feeding ground for cascading problems once you start substituting various components, and get to play the "1911 Wack-A-Mole Problem Resolution Game."

Listen to Jason Burton's comments on the podcast I provided a link to earlier in the thread. It'll give you the right perspective and mindset.

Best, Jon

[45dotACP]

It's not complicated to get a 1911 that runs.

It's just not something you can expect from a factory gun. The two 1911s I've had that passed the 10-8 extractor test out of the box were an Alchemy Custom Prime in 9mm, which was about 3 grand, a RRA Poly in .45 which was about 900 dollars.

The Alchemy because it was a custom gun built by a master. The RRA because the metal versions of their guns are gonna go for used Wilson Combat money and they apply a similar degree of hand fitting to the important bits.

But Kimber, Colt, Springfield...almost no factory turned out 1911 has hand fitted parts, and some of those parts (especially the extractor) MUST be hand fit.

You can get away with sloppy fit on almost everything, and compared to my Prime, basically every 1911 I own is fit sloppy (even the two I've built. They can shoot groups of less than 2 inches at 25 yards, but compared to a gun built by a professional, they're sloppy guns)

But you will be punished for a poorly done extractor when you have a gun whose operation was designed on using that extractor to control the round into and out of the chamber, as opposed to a modern external extractor which can just snap over the rim of the cartridge when it finishes pushing the round into the barrel.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

[mwolf]

Be totally objective in your anticipated use of the gun. For casual occassional range use and some carry, if things are working well, I'd leave 'em alone. For harder use, such as duty, more regular and extensive shooting sessions and training, I'd suggest taking a very hard look at virtually every internal component. For the first several years, the GSR/Revolution was a bit of a flagship loss leader for SIG. After Cohen took over, things quickly became brutally pragmatic in terms of the bottom line, and the expensive, high quality aftermarket components spec'ced by Matt McLearn gradually, then more speedily with time went by the wayside, reportedly replaced with offshore MIM components, first from Israel and then from India. There's been some good testimony from a former SIG employee now working with one of the high-end aftermarket outfits that the MIM quality was only mid-level, and that there were additional QC issues (and not just with SIG's 1911s...). Any of SIG's 1911s produced after 2007/2008 should be examined component by component if you truly want it to be a hard use 1911 with longevity.

Here's what I'd suggest: Discuss your specific 1911 with a qualified 1911 gunsmith, and with a copy of Brownells/EGWs/Wilson Combats/Ed Brown's/Harrison's catalogues (well, web pages) in hand, select your ideal components. Then have your gunsmith fit and install them, because in all liklihood, things will not just drop into place-and even if they do, they still should be examined and fitted for the best possible match-up with the other components that they interface with, directly and/or indirectly. A 1911 quite simply isn't a Glock; unless you're a knowledgeable budding (or actual) gunsmith with access to the proper and necessary tools and expertise, 1911 gun Barbie should be left to responsible adults. Otherwise, there's an excellent chance you'll be providing a fertile feeding ground for cascading problems once you start substituting various components, and get to play the "1911 Wack-A-Mole Problem Resolution Game."

Listen to Jason Burton's comments on the podcast I provided a link to earlier in the thread. It'll give you the right perspective and mindset.

Best, Jon

Thanks a lot for the advice on the MIM parts in the Sig. I would prefer all of my guns to be Duty level, but I do need to consider cost/benefit, since my primary carry guns are Beretta 92’s and PX4’s. The gunsmith at the range is excellent with the 1911 & is my trusted advisor. Don’t want to cause any further drift away from your original post. Good reading is ahead.

[JonInWA]

I actually inserted this first in our other concurrently-running 1911 thread, really meaning to plunk it down here...

http://pistol-training.com/archives/7270

The VCD grips and orange front sight face really provided significant and quantifiable improvements for him, surprising himself, as he was initially pretty skeptical. I spoke with David Barnes yesterday, and he has a set on its way to me with a scoop on the left grip to expedite access to the magazine release. That will make it more of an oranges-to-oranges comparison with the Magpul and BH SS grips.

Best, Jon

[MGW]

I actually inserted this first in our other concurrently-running 1911 thread, really meaning to plunk it down here...

http://pistol-training.com/archives/7270

The VCD grips and orange front sight face really provided significant and quantifiable improvements for him, surprising himself, as he was initially pretty skeptical. I spoke with David Barnes yesterday, and he has a set on its way to me with a scoop on the left grip to expedite access to the magazine release. That will make it more of an oranges-to-oranges comparison with the Magpul and BH SS grips.

Best, Jon

I’ve read Todd’s journal about the Springer multiple times. His experiences are what convinced me to stop worrying and dive into the 1911 as a serious use pistol. I’ve also been a convert to VCD’s thanks to him. I never would have given them a second look otherwise. Personal experience they flat out work.

I never cracked the code on the best concealed carry set up for a 5” all steel 1911 though. And now I’ve gone the opposite direction and started focusing on single stack plastic guns. I really want to find out how much performance I’m giving up compared to a 1911.

[JonInWA]

After speaking with p-f member David Barnes of VCD Grips, I asked if he had a thumb scoop model-he does indeed, which is available, but uncatalogued on his website; the name of them is The Practitioner. These were the grips that David provided in prototype form to Todd Green for his Heirloom pistol.

https://i.imgur.com/IaYDZ3hh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TgKPHMKh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nAmJh9dh.jpg

I like them quite a bit, at least in their index and in dryfire; I'll be using them on the GSR at an IDPA match later in the month.

Due to the configuration of the grips, the cratering is a bit shallower, as seen comparatively with one of his standard OD Tapered grips: (the one on the top is the standard, the one immediately below is the thumbscoop)

https://i.imgur.com/mNQSpDlh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nAmJh9dh.jpg

Operationally, that seems to be of no consequence; if anything, I seem to slighty prefer the slightly less aggressive cratering (but regardless, David ships a segment of sandpaper which each of his grips to shave down the cratering to make them less aggressive if desired).

Aesthetically, for those concerned, the Practitioners come in a slightly darker and greener Olive Drab than the standard Tapereds, which seem to be more of a brown-green Olive Drab.

Fit is excellent, as is the grip profile. While the Standard Tapered grips seemed to fit a bit tighter, snapping in place, the Practitioners have a good fit with no slop around the grip screw bushings. I use Challis rubber O-Rings (designed specifically for 1911 use, but actually amenable to use in other platforms) with each grip screw to prevent screw loosening and backing out due to firing vibration.https://challisgrips.americommerce.com/c/21-Bushings.aspx
I like the access provided by the scoop to the magazine release, and I can detect no loss of grippability incurred by the scoop. I think that these will provide a subtle, but welcome incrimental imrovement to my overall package. We'll see how the results play out quantifiably, but I plan on running with these for some time.

David was also kind enough to send me a free set of the standard Tapereds which I asked for in Brown; thse may find a place, at least experimentally with my Colt Series 70 stainless Repro, which is currently wearing a set of Hogue G10 (which I'm very pleased with), or, perhaps heretically, on our WWII 1945 vintage Remington-Rand 1911A1....

For any interested, VCD has available stocks of the Practitioner Thumbscoop model, in a variety of colors-check with VCD Grips for further information and details. http://www.vcdgrips.com/

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

On Saturday I shot the GSR as currently equipped in a club IDPA match. The gun fired 171 rounds thorughout the match without a single hiccup; I additionally used the opportunity to test it with 5 series of Check-Mate magazines (1. welded baseplate, stainless steel, hybrid feed lip, 8 round skirted/dimpled follower,; 2. extended tube/removable polymer basepad, 8 round, stainless steel, hybrid feed lip, dinpled/skirted follower; 3. extended tube/removable basepad, 8 round, carbon steel, hybrid feed lip, dimpled/skirted follower, high-polish black oxide finish; 4. extended tube/removable basepad, carbon steel, 8 round, hybrid feed lip, skirted/dimpled follower, matte teflon finish, and 5. extended tube/removable basepad, 8 round, stainless steel, semi-wadcutter feedlip, skirted/non-dimpled follower, produced by Check-Mate exclusively as CerTac magazine for Cerebrus/P3LLC. Additionally, a carbon steel, 10 round, hybrid feed lip dimpled/skirted follower magazine was used as my initial charger magazine for each stage. There were no isssues whatsoever with any of the magazines, which which were continuously ejected into the dirt and mud throughout the match.

For EDC/duty carry, I'll use a 7 round, carbon steel hybrid feed lip welded baseplate Check-Mate magzine; for my 2 reload magazines, I'll use the 8 round extended tubes-either the black oxide, teflon, or CerTac ones-all are equally good and vetted.

Shooter needs work; while the gun performed superbly, my scores were pretty unimpressive, except for 1 or 2 out of the 7 match stages stages; I'm re-reading and re-applying J. Michael Placxco's "Shooting From Within" with copious amounts of dry-fire for general improvement, but specifically to build and hone my 1911-fu skills.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Regarding the upgraded components I've recently installed, the RDIH extended slide stop worked superbly. I was able to use it with both strong and support hands-ther ergos and function are much appreciated. The component did not cause any inadvertant/premature slide locking. The RDIH ambi magazine release worked just fine, although I don't believe I ever used the ambi portion (the right side magazine release lever) of the set-up during the match, but it was nice having it as an option. The right-side lever was functionally unobtrusive, and created no issues with holstering or during use. The BH Spring Solutions 16# recoil spring chugs along quite nicely-there were no chambering or extraction issues, and while I wasn't paying any attention to it, extracted cartridge casings exited nicely. The VCD grips really efffectively lock your hand in on the gun, but allow for hand transitions if necessary, and the aggressive thumbscoop was appreciated. I ended up using 2 Challis O-Rings per grip screw, stacking them on the screw before inserting the screw for tightening, and they very effectively precluded any screw back-outs from firing vibration.n the

I did notice one thing-that with the 8 round welded baseplate magazine, due to the decreased volume/increased spring pressure compared to the 8 round extended tube magazines, it was a bit more difficult to activate the RDIH magazine release when the magazine was fully loaded with 8 rounds. Operationally, I had no issue with it, though.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

Wes Dahl of Privateer Leather has provided me with a magnificent OWB holster for the GSR; he has the proper mold for the older SIG 1911 profile (as well as the newer ones). this one is his Castaway model, a mid-ride, similar to their Highwayman, but the castaway uses two Pull-The-Dot grippers to secure the belt loops, making for an easy to remove holster.

The holster needed very little break-in; basically, just easing the GSR into the holster the first several times, and then letting it sit in it overnight. Fit, boning and finish is superb, with the body done in Black and the trim in Russet Brown. In use, it's like closing a bank vault door when inserting the pistol.

https://i.imgur.com/7FXplh0h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NJGlWGNh.jpg

This is my third holster from him-his work is magnificent, and he's a great guy to work with. An unhesitating solid Recommend for anyone needing/preferring a leather holster.

Best, Jon

[Jim Watson]

Interesting.
What base gun would you pick now, 15 years downtime?

[JonInWA]

Interesting.
What base gun would you pick now, 15 years downtime?

Great question. here are others here on p-f that are far more 1911-centric and 1911 knowledgeable than I, so take this for what you think it's worth (and I'm certainly interested in what others would recommend):

If I was to start today with a solid 1911, either intrinsically as is comes or as a base gun, here are my thoughts:

1. One of the Colt Classics (or, even better yet, if you can find one of the discontinued Series 70 Reproductions); Yeah, it'll have sharp edges, but the gun and basic specs will be rock-solid;

2. One of the Dan Wessons;

3. The Springfield Armory Vickers model (hey, a well spec'ced and resonably priced "name" endorsed 1911-be still, my beating heart...);

4. A Ruger 1911 (a decent entry-model)

5. An Alchemy-I think today they're the only semi-custom maker I'd feel totally comfortable in spending $2,500 + on

6. A used 1911 from a reputable manufacturer, and then send it to Jason Burton etc. for a chassis-up rennovation/bespoke improvement

I like the idea of one having an integral plunger tube (one less thing to go south), but that in and of itself isn't a key criteria per se.

Best, Jon

[45dotACP]

Great question. here are others here on p-f that are far more 1911-centric and 1911 knowledgeable than I, so take this for what you think it's worth (and I'm certainly interested in what others would recommend):

If I was to start today with a solid 1911, either intrinsically as is comes or as a base gun, here are my thoughts:

1. One of the Colt Classics (or, even better yet, if you can find one of the discontinued Series 70 Reproductions); Yeah, it'll have sharp edges, but the gun and basic specs will be rock-solid;

2. One of the Dan Wessons;

3. The Springfield Armory Vickers model (hey, a well spec'ced and resonably priced "name" endorsed 1911-be still, my beating heart...);

4. A Ruger 1911 (a decent entry-model)

5. An Alchemy-I think today they're the only semi-custom maker I'd feel totally comfortable in spending $2,500 + on

6. A used 1911 from a reputable manufacturer, and then send it to Jason Burton etc. for a chassis-up rennovation/bespoke improvement

I like the idea of one having an integral plunger tube (one less thing to go south), but that in and of itself isn't a key criteria per se.

Best, JonThese are all spot on IMO.

It all really depends on what people mean by "base gun" and whether that is a gun to send to a gunsmith or a no frills pistol with the basic stuff you want on it.

The Springfield RO series is solid. As is the Ruger and the Colt competition model.

If you're looking for a grab it and go (with maybe some mild reliability work) Dan Wesson is a very solid choice, as would be a Springfield TRP or their Operator or Vickers series.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

[JonInWA]

On Saturday, I ran the GSR XO in an IDPA match-I was the Match Director, and deliberately designed a 7 stage match with a low minimum ammunition round count (56 round minimum); all stages were unlimited, so if you felt the need to make make-up shots (or had the ammunition and had an uncontrollable urge to just let loose...). The idea was to have a challenging match that recognized the current ammunition shortage especially critical for newer gun owners in many cases. No one complained or made overt moves to string me up on the flagpole, so I'll count it as at least a conceptual success.

The gun and Privateer holster ran superbly. A couple of specific comments regarding things I observed during my use during the match:

-The gun ran like a proverbial sewing machine with the BH SS 16' recoil spring; standard-pressure Sellier & Bellot 230 gr cartridges were used. Excellent cycling, chambering and ejection throughout. TW25B was my lubrication for areas of metal-on-metal reciprocation, and Weapon Shield or Lucas Extreme Duty gun oil used as a general lube/anti-corrosive.

-The Privateer holster was excellent-both in terms of operational effectiveness and comfort. In initial use after I received it fom Wes Dahl, I noticed that the belt loop securing grippers cold be inadvertatly un-gripped, due to movement from a heavy jacket, but Wes assured me that the grippers would take a "set" in a short amount of use, which has in fact been the case. Wes assured me that if the problem did not self-solve, he'd send me a replacement set of grippers, which was appreciated but unnecessary. I'll also pont out that the design of the belt loop straps and how they interface with the body of the holster makes holster loosening even with unintentional gripper opening highly unlikely. While I think I prefer his fixed slot models, this holster is eminently usable and comfortable.

-The BH SS and RDIH components (and recently BH SS announced the merger of the two companies) worked extremely well. I especially like the RDIH extended slide release. The ambi magzine release works just fine, but I have yet to have a situational need where I need to activate the magazine release using the ambi side; but it's a nice option to have when situationally necessary. The standard button release works just fine.

-The VCD grips are flat-out excellent. I like the slightly shallower craters in the thumbscoop model-it's a little less abrasive against clothing. The grips allow for hand trandsitions, but really lock your hand down in use-which really pays off not only in standard free-style (two-handed) shooting, but particularly in one-handed shooting. This is a great benefit with a heavier, more muzzle-heavy pistol, like a 5" Government platform. Combining with the SIG's 25 LPI frontstrap checkering provides an excellent grip, regardless of the circumstances or moisture on the grips.

-Check-Mate Black Oxide 8 round Extended Tube, skirted/dimpled follower, hybrid feed lip magazine were used throughout the match. One of Check-Mate's 10 round blued, hybrid feed lip, dimpled/skirted follower magazines was utilized as my initial charger/Barney magazine. Magazines worked without any incident whatsoever, although in the low round count matches magazine reloads were pretty rare. The Black Oxide magazines were part of an experiental run of exceptionally high polished extended tube magazines of carbon steel tubes with the black oxide finish applied.

-Sights; the Novak .125 front, with a flourescent orange face with a dark blue dot and a .140 Novak Wide Notch rear worked beautifully, providing an easily acquired sight picture and continued accuracy. I was only 11 points don for the match, which is a low for me as I recall. I very rarely needed to make any make up/pick up shots-and those needed were on me and my technique, not due to any fault of the sights.

-Magazine pouch was my Wilderness Double Ugly pouch, which has performed yeoman service since the early 1990s. Similarly, my belt was a 1.5" 5-Stitch Wilderness Frequent Flyer, with Delrin buckle rings. It' been a good belt for duty, casual wear and competition over the years.

And there you have it. This match probably provided me with the best competition run I've had with the GSR XO; I really like the incrimental hardware improvements, coupled with software improvements from dryfire and being a student of the gun.

Best, Jon

[Sauer Koch]

As to the #2 recommendation above, for a Dan Wesson...

Definitely not trying to speak for him, but when I sent my DW A2 1911 to John Harrison for some improvements, he told me that it had been a while since he'd seen a DW, and was very impressed with the overall quality, that it was a great gun as is, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend one as a base gun for a full build, where he'd normally recommend a Springfield or Colt. That was nice to hear, as it made me feel I'd made a wise choice in buying what I had read was a great 1911.

[JonInWA]

Several years ago, CZ/Dan Wesson did a 1911A1; I believe only around 1,000 were made. It competed head-to-head with the Colt Series 70; it'll be very interestng with the CZ-buyout of Colt if that particular 1911 will show up again as a catalog item. Since Colt has moved away from the Series 70 Reproductions, instead going to the Classic (which is nice enough on its own, but has some differences which move it a bit away from the niche the Series 70 occupied), the CZ-re-entry would be very welcomed, I suspect.

Best, Jon

[farscott]

On the Privateer holster, are the "grippers" different than the usual Pull-the-Dot snaps? If so, how? I like the holsters but do not like the snaps as they are hard to snap over a well-fit belt and can appear to be snapped when not. As such, I tend to use such holsters as sewn loops, threading the belt through the holster.

[JonInWA]

On the Privateer holster, are the "grippers" different than the usual Pull-the-Dot snaps? If so, how? I like the holsters but do not like the snaps as they are hard to snap over a well-fit belt and can appear to be snapped when not. As such, I tend to use such holsters as sewn loops, threading the belt through the holster.

The ones Wes uses on his Privateer holsters literally are Pull-The-Dot snaps. For them to be properly actuated and engaged, theres a correct angle of engagement. And I thnk that they way that you're using yours is actually the technique that Wes prefers to be used-that the grips are engaged as much as possible, with ungripping and re-gripping being minimized. As I recall, his suggested guidance is that the grippers be un-gripped only when there's a need to expeditiously remove the holster, but that their normal mode is for the grips to be engaged exactly as you are.

My initial concern is that while I would engage te grips, body or clothing shifts against heavy concealment gernments would unsnap a grip-mostly the rearmost one. Time, and the grip inner spring apparently taking a "set" seems to have cured this tendancy to have unintentional unsnapping. Wes's method of loop costruction is that even if unsnapped, it's unlikely that the holster would come loose or become unsecured against your body, even during the draw process. Apparently there's a bit of a break-in process for both the grips and the leather loops, as a little wear-in more easily facilitates threading a belt through the loops when the Pull-The-Dot grips are engaged.

The Castaway holster is a mid-ride, esentially the same as his Highwayman in terms of construction, positioning and cant, but with the Pull-The-Dot belt loops as opposed to the Highwayman, which has the belt manuvering through integral cuts in the leather holster body itself. Given a choice between the two, I'm slightly more inclined to go with the Highwayman's way of engagng the belt, but for those who may need to remove and then re-don their holster during the wear period the Castaway may be a better choice. https://www.privateerleather.com/copy-of-snap-removable-owb-holsters-1

https://www.privateerleather.com/copy-of-pancake-style-owb-holsters-1

And he has other alteratives-his quality is excellent and consistant in my experience. If you're looking for a leather holster, either for classic, aesthetic or practical reasons, his are well worth a look-I highly recommend them. Wes is great to work with as well, and has reasonable turn-around times.

https://www.privateerleather.com/

[farscott]

Thank you for the very informative reply. I am perusing the Privateer web site, trying to make some decisions. My usual holster of choice is the Sparks HR-LTD (essentially a VM-2 with a waterproof membrane and two layers of thin smooth leather) for IWB with a 1911. With a Glock, I prefer the more aggressively canted Criterion. 2020 played havoc with my training ammo supply as I spent most of the year and ammo supply getting up to speed on the EDC X9. I was also experimenting with the EDC X9 in a 1911-length Criterion since the grip frame is more like a Glock But my 9x19 training ammo supply was most depleted, and I transitioned back to the .45 ACP 1911. Now that the supply seems to be a bit better, I am getting ready to go back to 9x19. An EDC X9 holster like the Criterion is what I am leaning towards. Of course, I could just order a four-inch Criterion from Sparks or use the five-inch holsters I have, but I am thinking over the options.

[JonInWA]

Thank you for the very informative reply. I am perusing the Privateer web site, trying to make some decisions. My usual holster of choice is the Sparks HR-LTD (essentially a VM-2 with a waterproof membrane and two layers of thin smooth leather) for IWB with a 1911. With a Glock, I prefer the more aggressively canted Criterion. 2020 played havoc with my training ammo supply as I spent most of the year and ammo supply getting up to speed on the EDC X9. I was also experimenting with the EDC X9 in a 1911-length Criterion since the grip frame is more like a Glock But my 9x19 training ammo supply was most depleted, and I transitioned back to the .45 ACP 1911. Now that the supply seems to be a bit better, I am getting ready to go back to 9x19. An EDC X9 holster like the Criterion is what I am leaning towards. Of course, I could just order a four-inch Criterion from Sparks or use the five-inch holsters I have, but I am thinking over the options.

Wes at Privateer is pretty responsive to emails, you may want to query him directly. He's aware of our discussions on this and on the 1911forum. Feel free to use my name in vain as a refernece point.

And I hear you on ammunition. I usually shoot revolvers 2 months out of the year-with .38 Special and/or .357 mgnum going for north of $1 a round (and that's for genaric practice stuff...), any dedicated revo use is pretty much out the 2021 window...

Ammunition and personal/professional comittments are leading me to concentrating on my 1911, High Power, Glock and SIG P320 for the bulk of 2021, unless the ammuntion situation signinficantly clears up. And, realistically, concentrating of fewer rather than more platforms is probably a better thing to do anyhow...

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

In the grips that I've experimented with over time with my 1911s, the two that really stood out for me were the VCD thumbscoop model and the BH Spring Solutions walnut Master grip. While the VCDs are the obvious best value, I appreciated the grain and finish on the BH Spring Solutions checkered walnut single diamond grips. The VCDs stood out with their increased grippiness and large thumbscoop, the BH SS ones for the subtle but extraordinarily effective vestigal thumb rest on the sides-particularly effective was the one on the right hand grip when shooting support-handed only, as it really stabilizes the gun in hand.

https://i.imgur.com/IaYDZ3hh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1aKunyHh.jpg

Yeah, you guys know where I'm headed with this...I've mounted the VCD olive drab thumbscoop left grip, and BH Spring Solution's right grip. my thoughts being that this would give me the best of both worlds. The VCD left seems to provide the primary hand-to-receiver grip (with the support hand), and the BH SS grips look decent, and provide an excellent stabalizing vestigal thunbshelf for support hand only shooting.Looks are...interesting (but realistically, most observers and shooters are only going to see one side of the gun at a time.

Seems to be excellent in dryfire practice; I'll get some livefiring scheduled, but the combination seems to be quite effective and comfortable.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

I recently shot the SIG in our Washington State IDPA Championship, a Tier IV IDPA match. The gun ran like a proverbial sewing machine, the operator, we;;, let's just say that I had a great time, had a great squad, and successfully avoided being DQ'd. There's room for improvement for JonInWA...

For the ladt year or so, I've been running my FN High Power with the BH SS/RDIH SFS system. As I detailed in the High Power thread, I was a reluctant, very reluctant participant in experimenting with the SFS setup, thinking that it basically was a solution in search of a problem.

After finally (the kit sat on my desk gathering dust for 6 months) deciding to try it (out of a sense of objective fairness, as well as yielding to the continued {and unrelenting} persuasion of one of the BH SS partners, I did in fact install it. And rapidly concluded that I was flat-out wrong, that there were some tangible and worthwhile advantages to the system. And, like most BH SS components and kits, it was a drop in proposition, easily installed by the individual High Power user (and if you didn't like it, easily removed and restored to OEM configuration).

So, after State, I decided to see how the SFS system would perform in a 1911. My 1911 for the experiment was my venerable (and long suffering) 2006 vintage Generation 2 SIG GSR XO. The GSR/SIG-Sauer 1911s are Series 80 guns, so my kit was appropriate for the Series 80, adding 2 components (a plunger lever and a trigger bar lever) to the basic SFS kit.

https://bhspringsolutions.com/index.php/product/tactical-fast-safety-sfs-v2-0-for-1911s-series-80/

The kit comes nicely boxed with detailed instruction sheets, but your best bet for understanding and installation are the following two YouTube videos:

1. BH Spring Solution's video, "1911 Fast Safety SFS Demonstration,"

2. "BEST Series 80 Reassembly Video" (it's predecessor, "BEST Series 80 Disassembly Video" is equally excellent if needed)

Necessary tools are minimal; appropriate gunsmith screwdrivers (for grip screw removal) appropriately sized punches, Wheeler Engineering Universal Bench Block (armorer's puck), and appropriate lubricants. While my personal SIG already had installed the BH SS/RDIH Extended Slide Stop and Ambidexterous Magazine Release, if you don't have those and desire them order the "Tactical" level SFS kit, which is the one I provided above.

I'm a huge believer in the inherent qualities and consistancy of BH Spring solutions springs, so the kit essentially fills out re-springing my 1911, as I'd already used their springs for the RSA and magazine release; the kit includes a new, stronger mainspring and plunger tube springs, both critical to the SFS system. The Wheeler Engineering block is particularly welcome in facilitating the mainspring housing spring switchouts.

Although I'm a huge proponent of regular firearm cleaning and lubricating (as in, after each use), this was the first itme I've done a detailed disassembly and reassembly of the 1911 receiver. It's actually quite straightfoward and easily executed, and a relatively little know fact is that the 1911 was designed with the ability for a user to perform a detailed disassembly and reassembly with absolutely no necessary other tools; the various components can serve double-duty as the requisite tools.

Disassembly went swimmingly. However, when I got to the point on reassembly/installation of the SFS components, specifically the Series 80 components, things came to an abrupt standstill. The short version is that the provided BH SS/RDIH Trigger Bar Lever was thicker, significantly so, than the OEM SIG part, and it was only with extreme difficulty that I could get the triggerr bar emplaced adjacent to the sear/disconnector components. And, when installed, it was simply too tight to successfully align the three components for the insertion of the sear pin.
https://i.imgur.com/7FeoWw1h.jpg

Discussions with BH SS revealed that if you had a Colt Series 80 for SFS installation, then yes, you needed the provided BH SS/RDIH Trigger Bar Lever and Plunger Lever-for other manufacturer's 1911s with the Series 80 setup, you need to ascertain the following: If Colt or exact copies of the Colt Series 80 components, you'll need to use the BH SS/RDIH Series 80 components; if not, just continue with using the Series 80 components inherent to the gun. Basically, if you try to install the BH SS/RDIH components, and they don't fit, stick with the gun's OEM Series 80 components; No harm, no foul. You'll also need to use the stronger supplied BH SS/RDIH mainspring and plunger tube springs.

Once I switched to the OEM SIG Series 80 components, everything installed and worked superbly.

While the kit includes a necessary BH SS/RDIH hammer assembly, and can facilitate a shorter "GI" grip safety, I deliberately chose to remain with my OEM Caspian grip safety; I appreciate the vertical fin, because wherever the web of my hand hits the grips safety, it'll deactivate it.

https://i.imgur.com/4SuYmYLh.jpg

BH SS partner Mark Howe demonstrates and recommends some judicious re-bending of several of the tines of the sear combination leaf spring; I induced a more foward bend to the left tine (controlling the sear) and the far right tine (applying pressure to the grip safety). I was a tad bit more conservative then the bends Mark performs on the video. I also have a Wilson Combat Bullettproof sear spring enroute, but decided to experiment with the OEM one.

Re-assembly went very smoothly-watch the videos, though. They were a huge help to me (and the BEST videos use a stainless steel 1911, which makes things easily visible) Again, the Wheeler Engineering Universal Block is worth its weight in gold, particularly with assembly steps concerning the mainspring housing.

The BH SS/RDIH kit provides a set of replacement manual safety levers; the left is well-shaped and metal, the right well-shaped but polymer (which BH SS is considering switching to metal-a highly recommended change, and the polymer right lever is attached by a flange to the safety lever axle, so I question the long-term viability of the polymer right side safety lever. If mine successfully irritates me, I may simply take it off and dress the flange so that it's flush with the frame, and run mine as a singler-side manual safety.

https://i.imgur.com/4JZCNCrh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CsavzwDh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/icsLLubh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EVDgOw1h.jpg

So-mechanically, the system works very nicely; trigerpull is nominally heavier than the triggerpull as provided on mine by the SIG Custom Shop, but it's crisp and without creep. The ergonomics of the replacement safety levers are excellent.

My initial thoughts:

-Carry comfort is significantly enhanced with the SFS as the hammer forward position (but cocked-and-locked) hammer is not protruding into your side as with the traditional hammer position at cocked-and-locked.

-The safety levers are capable of only manually off-safing the gun-on safing is accomplished only by manually moving the hammer forward; the safety levers automatically cam into their upright on safe position. Conversely, you can ONLY activate on safing by mechanically moving the hammer foward, as the safety levers have lost their operator-induced upward on-safe motion. If you're one of those who likes to on-safe between strings of fire (but before holstering the weapon when all finished), you're probably not going to like SFS. Of course, mechanically moving the hammer forward isn't a big deal, but it's another muscle memory to learn. It's easier to do with the more vestigal GI beavertail than my swept beavertail; I have to grasp the hammer by its sides to move it foward, using both thumb and forefinger.

-The SFS is a far safer way to get the hammer forward, especially with a loaded cartridge in the chamber.

I'll run it and let everyone think of my continued impressions.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

I recently added two components to the SIG-a set of VZ Operator II Palm Swell G10 grips, in Hyena Brown, and concurrently wanted to run some of High Desert Cartridge Company's remanufactured .45 ACP cartridges through it.

https://vzgrips.com/products/vz-operator-ii-palm-swell-full-size-1911-grips.html

https://highdesertcartridge.com/

I ran the gun with the grips an cartridges through a 50 round familiarization session, and then competed with it in a sodden, rain filled Tier 1 club IDPA match (where only half the shooters that had signed up actually showed up...). I had a great time, being adequately togged out for the weather, and it was a great environment to test in as well. At least the temperatures were mild, being in the high 40s and low 50s.

https://i.imgur.com/6KqcRX4h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BjKc2B2h.jpg

First-the cartridges. They're excellent, well remanufactured with quality low flash and low smoking powder, and exceptionally consistent and accurate. One of our own, Dagga Boy/Darryl Bolke is affiliated with them, especially regarding their revolver rounds (which I'll be testing in the near future), and I'm very impressed with them, and look forward to continued usage-their pricing is excellent, too. I had excellent accuracy in both sessions (both square range and at the IDPA match itself) with them, and absolutely zero malfunctions or hiccups of any sort. They were used in Check-Mate Extended Tube magazines, one set with hybrid feedlips and another set with semi-wadcutter (straighter) feedlips-while both sets had extra power springs and skirted followers, one set had a dimple on the follower, the other did not-feeding and operation with both sets wes excellent and totally problem free. The magazines were dumped in puddles repeatedly throughout the match as well, and at best cursorily wiped off before reloadings.

The VZ Operator II grips have been out for awhile, and play to good reviews. I wanted to try a set with the palm swells, beveled bottoms (I don't use magwells) and a Super Scoop on the left panel to aid in speedily accessing the magazine release button. While as I've discussed previously in the thread I've had excellent results with other very credible grips, these grips are exceptional. Made of G10, you're not going to have any swelling or much normal wear issues with them, and VZ uses an aggressive golf-ball type of stippled texturing on the front third, which shifts to a less aggressively ripple texture on the back two thirds, and the palm swelling starts about a quarter of the way down on the grips, beneath the thumb scoop.

I found all of the factors provided for an exceptional grip experience, especially in the wet weather. G10 has a chalky texture to begin with, and the golf-ball divots and rippling textures really anchor the gun in your hands. The match featured plenty of free-style and single-handed shooting (both dominant- and support-hand only), and I had excellent control of the gun throughout the match.

https://i.imgur.com/mtmoZn1h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xC5FP3kh.jpg

I found the Super Scoop to be ideal in providing swift and natural access to the magazine release button. For my thumb shape and hand ergonomics, I much prefer a large thumb scoop as opposed to the more vestigial ones (or none at all). The thing is deep enough to resemble a snowboarder's half-pipe-I really like it.

Of additional note, in checking my noted and logbook, I found that this was the first match that I've run the gun since equipping it with the BH Spring Solutions/RDIH SFS system, and I both like it and had zero operational issues or difficulties with it. Trigger pulls are excellent, about 4-5 # weight (and the SIG has the Series 80 drop safety system), and the BH SS/RDIH extended slide stop is much preferred for use as a slide release.

I'll also note that the VZ grip's palm swells are suitably positioned to provide excellent control during single-handed shooting, both in how they fill your palm and in providing a subtle thumb shelf, which is particularly desirable (for me, at least) in non-dominant handed shooting.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

In the match, I used my Privateer Leather Castaway leather holster, which provides an excellent feel and operation, which Wes Dahl made specifically for my SIG GSR profile.

https://i.imgur.com/7FXplh0h.jpg

I have a number of Wes' holsters, and they continue to be my recommended holster for a leather holster. Their boning, attention to detail, fit and finish is exceptional.

For magazine pouches, since I was shooting in IDPA CDP (Custom Defensive Pistol) division, I needed to have pouches providing for 4 magazines; one for my initial chambering magazine (the "Barney" magazine), one for my initial administratively loaded magazine at the "Load and Make Ready" command, and, since I was using 8 round magazines, 2 reload magazines.

For my Barney and initial magazine, I was t&e'ing from Amazon a Votagoo Gear Dual MOLLE adjustable magazine pouch, which features polymer inserts for the magazine, and a bungee cord rigging for adjustability, with both belt loop straps and MOLLE webbing slots. The belt loop straps were an abject operational fail, as mid-match both came unmoored from the pouch body, and only friction between my body and the belt kept them secured at all-and loosely at that. After the match, I simply cut the fabric loops off the pouch, and replaced them with a set of Tactical Tailor Malice Clips, as other then the loops I liked the pouch, as I found that the magazines were both securely held and easily extracted in operational use. With the Malice Clips, I'm comfortable in using them and recommending them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CP5K1B3K?th=1

I also used a Tactical Tailor Magna Light dual holster, which I've found to be excellent, with rare earth magnets sewn in the holster securely gripping the magazines when used in an open top mode.

https://tacticaltailor.com/fight-light-magna-mag-double-pistol-mag-pouch/

These have served me well for years for duty, IDPA, and EDC magazine carry.

While I didn't use it at the match, VZ had provided me with their new Universal Belt Holster,

https://vzgrips.com/products/vz-universal-leather-holster.html

I've used it extensively in the past month, and while I was initially pretty skeptical (I thought that the leather at the holster mouth was insufficiently stiff and un-reinforced to allow for one-handed holstering/reholstering), I found that in actual use it worked quite well with my SIG GSR, a Colt Series 70 Reproduction, and my FN MK III High Power. It's a somewhat minimalist belt slide/bikini-style holster, it has sufficient body to provide coverage and support for 1911s and High Powers in EDC use, and provides a very slim, non-protrusive profile. I found that while my initial daily holstering might take a bit of manipulation to get the gun in it, once in the leather retained a memory of sorts, and reholstering after draws was easily accomplished single handedly. It's a good EDC concealment holster, but I probably wouldn't necessarily recommend it for duty or match use with frequent draws and reholstering-but I'm willing to try it in a future match to give it a fair assessment in that venue.

Best, Jon

[Trooper224]

Thanks for chronicling your journey with this particular gun. It's been very interesting.

[JonInWA]

Next on the t&e journey is to experiment with full-length guide rods. Pretty much everything I read says they're a "meh" and other than providing a slightly smoother cycling feel during slide reciprocation, they're not really going to do much qualitatively in terms of improvements. A friend has given me an aluminum 1 piece (probably a Briley), and a tungsten 1 piece, and a suitable holed recoil spring plug.

I quickly discovered that if nothing else, using a holed plug really makes you want to get a bushing wrench (which I actually got today-I had one, but it was in my range bag that was stolen a year or so ago, and since all of my 1911s have the GI set-up, it wasn't a high priority replacement-until it became one yesterday...).

I probably won't use the tungsten one; IDPA rules forbid it, and even if it wasn't materially precluded from use, I suspect it's weight would take my 1911s over the 43 oz IDPA limit. While a 1 piece makes the most sense (you'll only need one tool to field strip (the bushing wrench), I'm tempted to try a Clark or EGW 2 piece, which will by definition require both a bushing wrench and an allen wrench....just because.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

Best, Jon