Revolver Newbie. Be Nice(ish).

[Clark Jackson]

*Mods: I'm delving into the world of revolvers and thought I'd start here. I realize I may be kicking several dead horses. If this post is not appropriate, please move/delete as necessary. Thanks.

I have had revolvers previously, but never used them for daily carry (or even night-stand carry) aside from use as a back-up to a full or compact semi-auto. A myriad of circumstances have evolved my thought process and I am working towards the use of a revolver as a primary SD tool in EDC and NS capacities.

That being said, I fully acknowledge my lack of revolver hardware knowledge and would greatly appreciate some guidance on all things revolver.

I figured I would start where I think most people start... cleaning up the notorious DA trigger found on many stock revolvers.

In this instance, I want to clean up the triggers on a SP101 and GP100. I want a cleaner DA pull but do not want to sacrifice reliability with factory SD loads.

The SP101 options:
Hammer Springs in 10# and 12# with a Trigger Spring in 10#.

The GP100 options:
Hammer Springs in 9#, 10#, 12# and Trigger Springs in 8# and 10#.

All springs supplied by Wilson Combat (SP101 Kit #349 and GP100 Kit #246)

Thanks in advance for the time and knowledge.

[okie john]

For carry guns, smooth up the existing parts. Dry-firing several thousand times does this pretty well. Leave the springs alone and learn to shoot them at factory weight.

Sky's the limit with gamer guns.

On Rugers, I also like to break all of the sharp edges on or near the trigger and guard with a piece of emory cloth.


Okie John

[JRV]

I know there are folks that are fine with decreasing mainspring force on defensive revolvers, especially those that will eat only Federal factory SD ammo in their use, but there are probably quite a few of us that will recommend against it. Defensive guns should be able to detonate anything available in the commercial market, especially when we’re in a drought.

You’re better off having a good smith give things a once-over with an India stone to make sure the internals are burr-free, and some revolvers benefit from very thin shims around triggers and hammers to remove slop. Dry-fire trigger jobs alone can make certain flaws on the edges of metal pieces worse, but they will polish most bearing surfaces.

And buy some Captains of Crush. Eleven pound triggers are nothing when you’re repping out 100+ lb gripper reps.

[FrankB]

Here’s the way I see it. Ever kick start a motorcycle? It can seem insurmountable at first, but it becomes super easy with proper technique and follow through. I had an SP101 that I changed the hammer spring on, but sold it a week later. I watch my fair share of youtube gun channels, and nothing drives me more crazy than watching a shooter S-L-O-W-L-Y pull a DA trigger back. Picture a smooth pull all the way back, with the end of your trigger pull being the goal. Works for me, and even my tiny hand wife. A close second would be staging a trigger. I believe that’s a dangerous technique outside of a range, and slower than simply pulling the hammer back into SA. Taking 30 seconds to aim at a 7 yard target also grinds my gears.... 🥴🥴🥴

P.S. I personally know a Ruger team member, and have fired his slicked up revolvers. Their triggers have very little resistance, and measure a few pounds. He loads his own with light primers, and does NOT carry them defensively.

[Guerrero]

In this instance, I want to clean up the triggers on a SP101 and GP100. I want a cleaner DA pull but do not want to sacrifice reliability with factory SD loads.

Start here:

https://www.kevinsworkbench.com/sp101trigger/

SP101 and GP100 are pretty much the same inside. Follow the instructions and do some simple polishing with silver/brass polish. Put it back together. Dry fire it a few hundred times. That will probably get you 90+% of the way there.

[Hizzie]

Start here:

https://www.kevinsworkbench.com/sp101trigger/

SP101 and GP100 are pretty much the same inside. Follow the instructions and do some simple polishing with silver/brass polish. Put it back together. Dry fire it a few hundred times. That will probably get you 90+% of the way there.

Right there’s the ticket. Burr’s and dirt are most of the problem. The newer hammer and trigger designs preclude the need for shims. The older stuff definitely benefits from them. Keep in mind you want a brisk trigger return or you run the risk of the trigger not resetting or not resetting fast enough.

[Hizzie]

Some hack wrote an article that spawned a huge discussion here:
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?14306-Revolver-article-in-MSW


Revolvers in general:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YmAEAX6m00I

Snubbies:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ov3H-_WQwAI

Kydex
JM Custom Kydex for GP and SP rigs

Pester Tom at Dark Star Gear about his SP101 Apollo.



Push to load > twisty speed loaders.

Safariland Comp I or Comp II for carry Comp III for games

JetLoaders

SpeedBeez

S L Variants

[Totem Polar]

Others have steered your boat to the correct shore. I can vouch that a judicious stoning is both prudent and easy to do on modern Rugers. I’ve done my own modest work on a half-dozen or so, with great results over the years. I’ve personally found that wolff #12 main springs help, and all have been totally reliable for me. Probably wouldn’t go #10 for a duty/serious gun. Leave the return alone. JMO.

[Rex G]

Add me to the list of members recommending that the Ruger factory springs be used, and in unaltered condition. A carry gun’s mainspring MUST ignite the primer. A carry gun’s trigger return spring MUST return that trigger right quickly.

The main thing I have done, to improve smoothness, is to smooth the corners and edges of the relevant part of the mainspring strut, and that has not always been necessary.

It takes some amount of time and dedication for long-stroke DA to “click,” and it is not simply a matter of hand strength. One has to learn to work the trigger finger muscles independently of the hand’s other muscles, which are gripping the weapon.

[kitchen's mill]

I would normally advise not to "modify" a stock gun, but Rugers can be improved with a light clean up.

I safely dry fire at least a few hundred times before attempting any work on internals. Most competent smiths would recommend the same before you send it to them. Break the gun in first.

Then on the Rugers just clean up the internals, leave the springs, especially the trigger return spring as is. They also benefit from radiusing the face of the tigger, those sharp edges make the trigger feel worse than it is.

I also like to remove the hammer spur, if you do chop it first before any trigger work.

Avoid any work that leaves the gun unsafe or unrealiable.

People hate to hear it, but a light trigger on a modified gun can be used against you.

[jetfire]

All of my GP100s (and I have...6) have the Wilson 10lb mainspring. Some have the stock trigger return spring and some a lighter trigger return spring. I won Master class at IDPA Nationals in 2014 using a 357 Mag GP100 with a 10lb mainspring and 8lb trigger return spring; this year I've got 2k+ rounds on a 10mm GP100 using that same spring combo. It's pretty tight.

[Totem Polar]

All of my GP100s (and I have...6) have the Wilson 10lb mainspring. Some have the stock trigger return spring and some a lighter trigger return spring. I won Master class at IDPA Nationals in 2014 using a 357 Mag GP100 with a 10lb mainspring and 8lb trigger return spring; this year I've got 2k+ rounds on a 10mm GP100 using that same spring combo. It's pretty tight.

Are you still religious about your use of Federal primers? Asking because I got light strikes with a Wolff 10lb in a GPNY—and the GPNY is .38 only. Going to an 11 seemed to cure it, but I settled on 12lbs anyways, in order to be able to shoot whatever was on sale or available in bulk, eg. Magtech or something, with a gun in various stages of cleanliness.

[Jim Watson]

If you are going to reduce springs, you should reduce friction; just putting in weaker springs on rough parts is not an "action job."

My criterion for springs on a carry weapon is that it must fire reloads with CCI primers.
I have one gun that requires the stock mainspring, one that let me go down one notch.

Match guns get the Federal primers and limber springs.

[jetfire]

Are you still religious about your use of Federal primers? Asking because I got light strikes with a Wolff 10lb in a GPNY—and the GPNY is .38 only. Going to an 11 seemed to cure it, but I settled on 12lbs anyways, in order to be able to shoot whatever was on sale or available in bulk, eg. Magtech or something, with a gun in various stages of cleanliness.

Yeah, pretty much. I've got like 2k rounds of 130gr American Eagle for the 357s, and 3k of Syntech Action Pistol in 40 S&W for the 10mm guns. In my 9mm Super GP100 I get like 75% ignition on the first strike on S&B primers, and then they crack on the second hit, so I only use those for practice. It's a little bit of a pain in the dick trying to hunt down Federal ammo, and I've had to pay a premium for American Eagle a couple of times now.

[Totem Polar]

Yeah, pretty much. I've got like 2k rounds of 130gr American Eagle for the 357s, and 3k of Syntech Action Pistol in 40 S&W for the 10mm guns. In my 9mm Super GP100 I get like 75% ignition on the first strike on S&B primers, and then they crack on the second hit, so I only use those for practice. It's a little bit of a pain in the dick trying to hunt down Federal ammo, and I've had to pay a premium for American Eagle a couple of times now.

Makes total sense, thanks.

[Dave T]

jetfire,

Do you carry the 10mm GP100 as a 'daily carry gun'? If so I'd be very interested in what your chosen ammo is. I believe you've said you practice and/or compete with 40 S&W. That begs the question of whether you carry 40s as a self-defense load.

I ask because the 10mm GP is the only member of that family I'd consider buying. I've shot 45 ACP revolvers for years and am completely comfortable with the concept and use of Moonclips. The S&W 610 was always a turnoff because it was the same size as my 45 ACP N-frames...and heavier.

Dave

[jetfire]

jetfire,

Do you carry the 10mm GP100 as a 'daily carry gun'? If so I'd be very interested in what your chosen ammo is. I believe you've said you practice and/or compete with 40 S&W. That begs the question of whether you carry 40s as a self-defense load.

I ask because the 10mm GP is the only member of that family I'd consider buying. I've shot 45 ACP revolvers for years and am completely comfortable with the concept and use of Moonclips. The S&W 610 was always a turnoff because it was the same size as my 45 ACP N-frames...and heavier.

Dave

Before I started on my current revolver project, I was carrying a 3 inch Wiley Clapp 10mm GP100 as an EDC in a JM Custom Kydex holster. I used TK Custom moonclips in 40 S&W and loaded the gun with 40 S&W 180 grain Federal HST. I went with the HST because it delivers great terminal results, and hit right behind the front sight like a laser beam.

[Dave T]

I went with the HST because it delivers great terminal results, and hit right behind the front sight like a laser beam.

Excellent arguments for you choice of ammo. Did you ever consider 10mm loads? Did they not shoot to the sights, or were you not impressed with the 10mm ballistics?

Dave

[jetfire]

Excellent arguments for you choice of ammo. Did you ever consider 10mm loads? Did they not shoot to the sights, or were you not impressed with the 10mm ballistics?

Dave

When I first started carrying it I was rocking Federal 10mm Hydra Shoks. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the 10mm Hydra Shok other than it being an older JHP design. The dirty little secret though is that it's also one of the 10mm Lite loads, so it's downloaded to what would eventually become standard 40 S&W pressure. Federal does make a 10mm HST load, which if you look at the ballistic tests does exactly the same thing as the 40 S&W load. Pre-pandemic, 40 S&W HSTs were a lot easier to get than 10mm, so I figured I'd take advantage of the ammo available and go with the more common 40.

[P.E. Kelley]

Honestly, you should not NEED to alter EDC guns. Other than sights. IMHO

Only other exception for me...it can not abrade me or leave me bleeding in normal uses.
How well you use a tool will be affected by pain or irritation received in its use.
I will drag a file, sanding material or a F-ing hatchet to an offending ballistic tool to mitigate this!


"WE" all need to master the fundamentals.

You just need to dry fire the hell out of your EDC guns!
Hell, dry fire any gun you wish to shoot well!!!

[okie john]

...it can not abrade me or leave me bleeding in normal uses.
How well you use a tool will be affected by pain or irritation received in its use.
I will drag a file, sanding material or a F-ing hatchet to an offending ballistic tool to mitigate this!

I have done horrible things to (otherwise) very nice guns in service of this idea.


Okie John

[jtcarm]

In my 9mm Super GP100 I get like 75% ignition on the first strike on S&B primers, and then they crack on the second hit, so I only use those for practice.

Ive often wondered what S&B primers are like.

I bought several hundred rounds of their .38 wadcutters on sale. When reloading, I found found the primer pockets to be brutally tight running Winchester, Remington, or CCI SPPs.