Score of the day

[ralph]

I’ll just leave this here.. Model 15-7, I had the Ahrends grips lying around, looks like they found a new home..

[SCCY Marshal]

Any plans for fitting leather? That thing is begging to be carried along.

[Lon]

Very nice. I’m always on the lookout for one of those or a Dayton Special to fulfill my 4” K frame needs.

[RoyGBiv]

That is a thing of beauty.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I I need a primer of wheeelgun model number nomenclature.

[SCCY Marshal]

That is a thing of beauty.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I I need a primer of wheeelgun model number nomenclature.

Seventh major engineering revision of the Combat Masterpiece after going to the much less fun numbering scheme. A year after the -7 came up (drilled and tapped frame plus a couple small changes from the -6), the square butt was dropped to just make them round. Late in the -7 run, they started using MIM hammers and triggers.

And there is no embarrassment, keeping up with Smith's model numbers from various nomenclature changes is hard enough, let alone revision histories.

[Lester Polfus]

That is a thing of beauty.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I I need a primer of wheeelgun model number nomenclature.

Also...

It's a .38 Special.

[Rick R]

That is a thing of beauty.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I I need a primer of wheeelgun model number nomenclature.

M-15 is a blued “K” frame in .38 Special. As above this one is Rev -7 for improvements.
The same basic gun as a M-19 without the .357 Mag chambers but just an overall nice package.

Kind of a cult classic wheelgun.

[ralph]

This revolver was just part of a package deal that I made today from a private seller.. You guys are going to hate me.. I also picked up the following

1. Browning A5, 12ga, looks to about a 28” bbl sadly, it also has one of those adjustable choke thingies that were popular in the 50’s and 60’s. Looking at serial number charts online, it appears that this was made in 1933, if I’m reading the charts right.. It’s in decent shape bore is bright and shiny, all numbered parts match. Looks like it’d be a good shooter.

2. Thompson-Center Contender, came with two 16” bbls one in .223, the other in .45 Colt/.410 its like new..

3. Norinco Model 320, Uzi clone, appears new in box, 16”bbl, thumb hole stock, in box with accessories, I’m thinking I’ll sell it.I bought all of this for less than $700

[Lon]

I bought all of this for less than $700

You’re right, we hate you. 🤣

[Lon]

That is a thing of beauty.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I I need a primer of wheeelgun model number nomenclature.

I bought a kindle copy of the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson a few years ago. A great reference book and not expensive as a kindle book. Also handy for pulling stuff up right in the gun shop.

[FrankB]

Be careful. It doesn’t have a key lock. 🤣🤣🤣

[HeavyDuty]

Seventh major engineering revision of the Combat Masterpiece after going to the much less fun numbering scheme. A year after the -7 came up (drilled and tapped frame plus a couple small changes from the -6), the square butt was dropped to just make them round. Late in the -7 run, they started using MIM hammers and triggers.

And there is no embarrassment, keeping up with Smith's model numbers from various nomenclature changes is hard enough, let alone revision histories.

Wait, what - that’s a RB?

[SCCY Marshal]

Wait, what - that’s a RB?

You'd have to ask OP. The -7 got its designation for a couple little tweaks irrelevant to the user and the drilled/tapped frame as a significant change. One year later, they dropped the square butt and streamlined to all round. So approximately one year's worth of dash sevens had square butts.

[Duelist]

This revolver was just part of a package deal that I made today from a private seller.. You guys are going to hate me.. I also picked up the following

1. Browning A5, 12ga, looks to about a 28” bbl sadly, it also has one of those adjustable choke thingies that were popular in the 50’s and 60’s. Looking at serial number charts online, it appears that this was made in 1933, if I’m reading the charts right.. It’s in decent shape bore is bright and shiny, all numbered parts match. Looks like it’d be a good shooter.

2. Thompson-Center Contender, came with two 16” bbls one in .223, the other in .45 Colt/.410 its like new..

3. Norinco Model 320, Uzi clone, appears new in box, 16”bbl, thumb hole stock, in box with accessories, I’m thinking I’ll sell it.I bought all of this for less than $700

I, too, would sell the Uzi clone and keep the rest.

You are a fortunate person in regards to this deal. Envy =/= hate. :)

[JRV]

I bought all of this for less than $700

American dollars?!

[ralph]

American dollars?!

Yup!

[SCCY Marshal]

I do hate ralph, now. Hammer nose snapped off my model 67 during the morning's dryfire. A ways into the break was black with corrosion and fouling so it's been cracked for God only knows how long.

Not happy that my stainless Combat Masterpiece is down until I can score a new firing pin and flare pin or entire new hammer. The 15-7 in the OP should get shot a bit extra this week to make up for its downed peer.

[ralph]

I do hate ralph, now. Hammer nose snapped off my model 67 during the morning's dryfire. A ways into the break was black with corrosion and fouling so it's been cracked for God only knows how long.

Not happy that my stainless Combat Masterpiece is down until I can score a new firing pin and flare pin or entire new hammer. The 15-7 in the OP should get shot a bit extra this week to make up for its downed peer.

I’ll see what I can do..But, I’m not making any promises..it’s freezing outside, and snowing... On the bright side, I just got back from dumping off the Uzi clone for a nice profit..

[SD]

any luck with numrich?
I do hate ralph, now. Hammer nose snapped off my model 67 during the morning's dryfire. A ways into the break was black with corrosion and fouling so it's been cracked for God only knows how long.

Not happy that my stainless Combat Masterpiece is down until I can score a new firing pin and flare pin or entire new hammer. The 15-7 in the OP should get shot a bit extra this week to make up for its downed peer.

[03RN]

I do hate ralph, now. Hammer nose snapped off my model 67 during the morning's dryfire. A ways into the break was black with corrosion and fouling so it's been cracked for God only knows how long.

Not happy that my stainless Combat Masterpiece is down until I can score a new firing pin and flare pin or entire new hammer. The 15-7 in the OP should get shot a bit extra this week to make up for its downed peer.

Ugh, ive already ordered from numerichs twice this week. Now I feel i should order some spares

[SCCY Marshal]

any luck with numrich?

Looks like I'll have to settle for both the nose and rivet being blued. Used as a twist of the knife for the firing pin. Plan to shift a flashlight order to pair of noses and rivets and learn to love the pinto hammer assembly.

[awp_101]

This revolver was just part of a package deal that I made today from a private seller.. You guys are going to hate me.. I also picked up the following

1. Browning A5, 12ga, looks to about a 28” bbl sadly, it also has one of those adjustable choke thingies that were popular in the 50’s and 60’s. Looking at serial number charts online, it appears that this was made in 1933, if I’m reading the charts right.. It’s in decent shape bore is bright and shiny, all numbered parts match. Looks like it’d be a good shooter.

2. Thompson-Center Contender, came with two 16” bbls one in .223, the other in .45 Colt/.410 its like new..

3. Norinco Model 320, Uzi clone, appears new in box, 16”bbl, thumb hole stock, in box with accessories, I’m thinking I’ll sell it.I bought all of this for less than $700
63979

[ralph]

You'd have to ask OP. The -7 got its designation for a couple little tweaks irrelevant to the user and the drilled/tapped frame as a significant change. One year later, they dropped the square butt and streamlined to all round. So approximately one year's worth of dash sevens had square butts.

Yup, that’s what I have here, RB, and drilling and tapped the frame under the rear sight, so you could mount a scope, or possibly a red dot..

[Bucky]

M-15 is a blued “K” frame in .38 Special. As above this one is Rev -7 for improvements.
The same basic gun as a M-19 without the .357 Mag chambers but just an overall nice package.

Kind of a cult classic wheelgun.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but this has the longer ejector than the M19? More like the M13, which is one of the reasons the FBI adopted the 13 over the 19.

[03RN]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but this has the longer ejector than the M19? More like the M13, which is one of the reasons the FBI adopted the 13 over the 19.

The ejector length is the same across the models of the same barrel length.

[Bucky]

The ejector length is the same across the models of the same barrel length.

A 4" M13 has the same length ejector as a 4" M19?

[03RN]

A 4" M13 has the same length ejector as a 4" M19?

Yes. 3" and up all share the same length. 2.5" and less all use the same length.

[Bucky]

Yes. 3" and up all share the same length. 2.5" and less all use the same length.

Dang it... now I want a 4" M19.

Thanks for the info. :)

[Rick R]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but this has the longer ejector than the M19? More like the M13, which is one of the reasons the FBI adopted the 13 over the 19.

I believe the FBI selected the 3” M13 (and M65) partly because it has a longer ejector rod than the 2 3/4” M19/M66. They also chose a fixed sight gun because from what I’ve seen of the FBI an agent would be required to submit a memo if they wished to adjust the sights on an issue revolver. I don’t know if a separate memo would be required for a change of windage and elevation but I could foresee it bogging down the whole agency in short order. ;)

[Dave T]

Minor correction. The M19 available with a short barrel at the time the FBI adopted the 3" M-13 had a 2.5" barrel. The 2.75" K-frame Magnum is a more recent offering/option.

Dave

[farscott]

This revolver was just part of a package deal that I made today from a private seller.. You guys are going to hate me.. I also picked up the following

1. Browning A5, 12ga, looks to about a 28” bbl sadly, it also has one of those adjustable choke thingies that were popular in the 50’s and 60’s. Looking at serial number charts online, it appears that this was made in 1933, if I’m reading the charts right.. It’s in decent shape bore is bright and shiny, all numbered parts match. Looks like it’d be a good shooter.

2. Thompson-Center Contender, came with two 16” bbls one in .223, the other in .45 Colt/.410 its like new..

3. Norinco Model 320, Uzi clone, appears new in box, 16”bbl, thumb hole stock, in box with accessories, I’m thinking I’ll sell it.I bought all of this for less than $700

Nice score. The A5 is a nice piece of HW. I like the "twist-o-choke" as they are quite functional. The "wonder winder" can be a lot easier than carrying multiple chokes and a wrench in the field.

[ralph]

Nice score. The A5 is a nice piece of HW. I like the "twist-o-choke" as they are quite functional. The "wonder winder" can be a lot easier than carrying multiple chokes and a wrench in the field.

True. But they sure ugly up the lines of a classic shotgun. I finally got around to actually measuring the barrel length and it’s 23” from the end of the receiver, to the bottom of the adjustable choke. Looking on Briley’s website they can put choke tubes in the barrel, I might do that.. There seems to be some disagreement between a couple of serial number charts I looked at to try to determine when this A5 was made, one says 1931, and another says it was made in 1935, there’s no doubt that this is a pre war example. I did put 5rounds through it in my side yard, shooting at my brush pile..It functioned just fine, the mag cutoff works, and I was surprised at how mild the recoil was, It’s quite pleasant to shoot.. I am going to keep it..

[HeavyDuty]

True. But they sure ugly up the lines of a classic shotgun. I finally got around to actually measuring the barrel length and it’s 23” from the end of the receiver, to the bottom of the adjustable choke. Looking on Briley’s website they can put choke tubes in the barrel, I might do that.. There seems to be some disagreement between a couple of serial number charts I looked at to try to determine when this A5 was made, one says 1931, and another says it was made in 1935, there’s no doubt that this is a pre war example. I did put 5rounds through it in my side yard, shooting at my brush pile..It functioned just fine, the mag cutoff works, and I was surprised at how mild the recoil was, It’s quite pleasant to shoot.. I am going to keep it..

Since you’re keeping it, you’ve gotten your value between that and the sale of the Norinco, right? So you’re ok with selling me the 15 and the T/C for $1 each?

[farscott]

True. But they sure ugly up the lines of a classic shotgun. I finally got around to actually measuring the barrel length and it’s 23” from the end of the receiver, to the bottom of the adjustable choke. Looking on Briley’s website they can put choke tubes in the barrel, I might do that.. There seems to be some disagreement between a couple of serial number charts I looked at to try to determine when this A5 was made, one says 1931, and another says it was made in 1935, there’s no doubt that this is a pre war example. I did put 5rounds through it in my side yard, shooting at my brush pile..It functioned just fine, the mag cutoff works, and I was surprised at how mild the recoil was, It’s quite pleasant to shoot.. I am going to keep it..

Rather than remove the adjustable choke and thread the barrel for chokes, you may be better off buying another barrel from Corson's at https://www.corsonsbarrels.com/browningbarrels.htm and selling (or keeping) your barrel. I also suggest getting some spare recoil system parts, namely the recoil spring and both steel and bronze friction pieces. In case you do not know, the friction pieces are arranged differently based on load as per the below. Depending upon the adjustable choke, you may have to adjust the arrangement to not batter the receiver.

[ralph]

Rather than remove the adjustable choke and thread the barrel for chokes, you may be better off buying another barrel from Corson's at https://www.corsonsbarrels.com/browningbarrels.htm and selling (or keeping) your barrel. I also suggest getting some spare recoil system parts, namely the recoil spring and both steel and bronze friction pieces. In case you do not know, the friction pieces are arranged differently based on load as per the below. Depending upon the adjustable choke, you may have to adjust the arrangement to not batter the receiver.

I saw that drawing before..right now my A5 is set up in position 1, I shot 5 rnds through it yesterday, using some low brass loads loaded with #8 shot..functioned fine..I’m currently looking for recoil springs, as Brownell’s doesn’t seem to have any.
As far as the barrel goes, I’m not sure what to do..buy a replacement barrel, or send it off to a Riley to get choke tubes installed, or leave it alone, and deal with it. One thing I have read is that on A5’s made before 1950, often the replacement barrel will not fit, and would need fitted to my receiver, mine was made in the 30’s.. While I don’t have much in it, I don’t want it to turn into a money pit either, as it is now, I’m not planning on doing anything with it until after the first of the year..

[TDA]

Dammit, you people pushed me over the edge on this one!

64098

It’s kind of a lot more rail than I think I’ll need for a Delta Point Pro. Suggestions?

[awp_101]

Dammit, you people pushed me over the edge on this one!

64098

It’s kind of a lot more rail than I think I’ll need for a Delta Point Pro. Suggestions?

Check with Weigand. They make (or made) a shorter mount and IIRC you can get it in d&t or no d&t options.

And now I sort want the 15-4 (I double checked my notes) on consignment at my local pusher’s shop that I’ve been resisting so far...

[Rick R]

Dammit, you people pushed me over the edge on this one!
It’s kind of a lot more rail than I think I’ll need for a Delta Point Pro. Suggestions?

I haven’t used one (yet), but I’m thinking of the EGW RDS mount for my Super Blackhawk.

https://www.egwguns.com/deltapoint-pro-fits-shield-rms-rmsc-sms-jpoint-redfield-accelerator-and-optima-for-s-w-revolver-sight-mount

[TDA]

I haven’t used one (yet), but I’m thinking of the EGW RDS mount for my Super Blackhawk.

https://www.egwguns.com/deltapoint-pro-fits-shield-rms-rmsc-sms-jpoint-redfield-accelerator-and-optima-for-s-w-revolver-sight-mount

Yessssssss! I feel like that would still look good with stag magnas and a Tyler-T. Maybe.

[Lon]

Dammit, you people pushed me over the edge on this one!

64098

It’s kind of a lot more rail than I think I’ll need for a Delta Point Pro. Suggestions?

Got hacksaw?

[ralph]

Since you’re keeping it, you’ve gotten your value between that and the sale of the Norinco, right? So you’re ok with selling me the 15 and the T/C for $1 each?

Ahhh, Not only No, but Hell No!! :rolleyes:

[Brian T]

Is that a heavier barrel than the typical taper barrel on a 15? If so would that make the 15-7 kinda like a 4" Model 14?

[ralph]

Is that a heavier barrel than the typical taper barrel on a 15? If so would that make the 15-7 kinda like a 4" Model 14?

Yup, barrel isn’t tapered, appears to be a heavier barrel..

[HeavyDuty]

Yup, barrel isn’t tapered, appears to be a heavier barrel..

That’s the appeal for me.

[farscott]

I saw that drawing before..right now my A5 is set up in position 1, I shot 5 rnds through it yesterday, using some low brass loads loaded with #8 shot..functioned fine..I’m currently looking for recoil springs, as Brownell’s doesn’t seem to have any.
As far as the barrel goes, I’m not sure what to do..buy a replacement barrel, or send it off to a Riley to get choke tubes installed, or leave it alone, and deal with it. One thing I have read is that on A5’s made before 1950, often the replacement barrel will not fit, and would need fitted to my receiver, mine was made in the 30’s.. While I don’t have much in it, I don’t want it to turn into a money pit either, as it is now, I’m not planning on doing anything with it until after the first of the year..

My Auto-5 is from 1954, the first year of the "Light Twelve", so it is quite a bit newer than yours. Mine took a replacement/extra barrel with no issue as a previous owner cut down the original barrel and made the gun into a "Rhodesian". Kind of a shame as it is a very early Light Twelve, being serial number "175" of that model. Unmolested it had some collector value; in the state in which I bought it, it is a shooter and nothing more.

I added a new bead to the cutdown barrel. That was a snap. The effort to fit the Stalker (synthetic) furniture was surprising, especially the lower receiver tang to the stock. That being said the polymer stock and forearm are not going to crack unlike the sixty-six year-old wood furniture. The original wood is in my gun room with the recoil system spare parts.

Personally I can make do with a fixed choke as long as it is Modified or tighter. I use the hardness of the shot to tighten the patterns; the softer the shot, the more the pattern opens. It works really well with fixed Modified choke barrels, but it can be done with Full.

[KellyinAvon]

63979

I second the motion

[TDA]

Are the VZ round to square grips the consensus hotness for 4 inch round butt K frames? I have a bin full of grips and the only ones that really fit well are Pachmayer compacs. I suppose I could practice draws and see how consistent my grip is with these, like a sensible person...

[Lon]

There was a 15-7 that went for less than $400 on GB yesterday. Wish I would have bid on it. It was worn and had obviously been carried but was still in decent shape.

[03RN]

There was a 15-7 that went for less than $400 on GB yesterday. Wish I would have bid on it. It was worn and had obviously been carried but was still in decent shape.

That was on my watch list too

[03RN]

Are the VZ round to square grips the consensus hotness for 4 inch round butt K frames? I have a bin full of grips and the only ones that really fit well are Pachmayer compacs. I suppose I could practice draws and see how consistent my grip is with these, like a sensible person...
Ahrends, or for .38s the normal rb vz grips are nice

[TDA]

Just to update- of course the old scope base was installed with loads of thread locking compound and this turned into a gunsmith project, but it’s home in time for Christmas.

65125

[SCCY Marshal]

...of course the old scope base was installed with loads of thread locking compound...but it’s home in time for Christmas.

Have you either soldering iron or wood burner? If so, could heat the screw heads and cook the locker to loosen.

[TDA]

Have you either soldering iron or wood burner? If so, could heat the screw heads and cook the locker to loosen.

The first screw came out, and I thought, “Wow, that’s a lot of funny looking thread locker!” Then I went right ahead and stripped the next one, and I thought “Oh hey, that was a warning sign!”

I hadn’t seen my gunsmith in a while though, and it was nice to have someone agree with me that this gun looked like it will be really fun to shoot.

[Stephanie B]

That is a thing of beauty.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I I need a primer of wheeelgun model number nomenclature.

Ask and you shall receive!

https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/guide-sw-38-357-revolvers/

[Stephanie B]

This revolver was just part of a package deal that I made today from a private seller.. You guys are going to hate me.. I also picked up the following

1. Browning A5, 12ga, looks to about a 28” bbl sadly, it also has one of those adjustable choke thingies that were popular in the 50’s and 60’s. Looking at serial number charts online, it appears that this was made in 1933, if I’m reading the charts right.. It’s in decent shape bore is bright and shiny, all numbered parts match. Looks like it’d be a good shooter.

2. Thompson-Center Contender, came with two 16” bbls one in .223, the other in .45 Colt/.410 its like new..

3. Norinco Model 320, Uzi clone, appears new in box, 16”bbl, thumb hole stock, in box with accessories, I’m thinking I’ll sell it.I bought all of this for less than $700

Can’t hate you. Scored a 4” 66-1, a 2.5” nickeled 19-4, and three gummed-up guns (65-2, 60 and .45 LW Commander) for a couple hundred more a year ago. The 60 might need the attention of a pro post-pandemic and the LWC needed some new parts. But still, it was a good deal.

[OlongJohnson]

The first screw came out, and I thought, “Wow, that’s a lot of funny looking thread locker!” Then I went right ahead and stripped the next one, and I thought “Oh hey, that was a warning sign!”

I hadn’t seen my gunsmith in a while though, and it was nice to have someone agree with me that this gun looked like it will be really fun to shoot.

There is no threadlocker I know that will bring metal with it. Someone's iniquities were found out.

[SCCY Marshal]

There is no threadlocker I know that will bring metal with it. Someone's iniquities were found out.

I think he stripped the head, not the threading. And I'd be lying if I said I wasn't relieved to know someone else has pulled that boner despite knowing it was stuck.

[TDA]

I think he stripped the head, not the threading. And I'd be lying if I said I wasn't relieved to know someone else has pulled that boner despite knowing it was stuck.

Yup, made a hex head screw slot into a round one. Just one of my many talents.

[Lon]

Someone needs to buy this 15-7. Less Than 2 days left. No bids. No reserve. $375

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/887388657

[fatdog]

Yup, made a hex head screw slot into a round one. Just one of my many talents.

I have that proven talent as well....in spite of having some nice tools that should prevent it.

[revchuck38]

Someone needs to buy this 15-7. Less Than 2 days left. No bids. No reserve. $375

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/887388657

On something like that, I'd just hit the "buy it now" button. $450 is still a fair price.

[Lon]

On something like that, I'd just hit the "buy it now" button. $450 is still a fair price.

If I had the sore cash I would have done that very thing.

[HeavyDuty]

On something like that, I'd just hit the "buy it now" button. $450 is still a fair price.


If I had the sore cash I would have done that very thing.

Me too. This damn place has gotten me lusting for a 15.

[Lon]

Me too. This damn place has gotten me lusting for a 15.

DB has me lusting after a Dayton Special Model 14, but those are really rare and collectible. For what I’d do with a 14 a 15-7 fits the bill. Just can’t ever find one when I have extra $$.

[Poconnor]

Every time I think about a 4” model 15 I tell myself to be satisfied with my 4” model 66.

[Stephanie B]

Someone needs to buy this 15-7. Less Than 2 days left. No bids. No reserve. $375

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/887388657

Pass. If I can't use a credit card or PayPal, I won't buy from GB. I want some tool available in case there's an issue.

[Lon]

Every time I think about a 4” model 15 I tell myself to be satisfied with my 4” model 66.

Since I don’t really worry about magnum loads I’ve been much more interested in the non-shrouded barrels. When I went through revolver instructor school we had 2 or 3 guys shooting S&W’s that had shrouded barrels (586/686) and when their ejector rods backed out a bit and locked the revolver up it was a real PITA to fix. The Model 10 guy had a much easier time when it happened to him.

Not a huge issue, but something I think about.

[Half Moon]

Since I don’t really worry about magnum loads I’ve been much more interested in the non-shrouded barrels. When I went through revolver instructor school we had 2 or 3 guys shooting S&W’s that had shrouded barrels (586/686) and when their ejector rods backed out a bit and locked the revolver up it was a real PITA to fix. The Model 10 guy had a much easier time when it happened to him.

Not a huge issue, but something I think about.

That's what a tiny drop of thread locker is for :-)

[BillSWPA]

Someone needs to buy this 15-7. Less Than 2 days left. No bids. No reserve. $375

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/887388657

That revolver is being sold as is, with no returns possible. Very little is said about its condition. Buying under those circumstances seems like a big risk.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Duelist]

Me too. This damn place has gotten me lusting for a 15.

I love my 15-4. Have a set of Ahrends on it.

[Duelist]

I think he stripped the head, not the threading. And I'd be lying if I said I wasn't relieved to know someone else has pulled that boner despite knowing it was stuck.

I did that pulling when trying to install a scope base on a 10/22: the plug screw didn’t want to come out of the receiver, and more pressure didn’t help it move, just made it fall apart in there.

Upside was I got to completely strip a 10/22 for the first time ever and send the receiver to Ruger. Who pulled the screw, and refinished the receiver while they were at it (very much a needed thing on that old rifle), and I paid only the shipping to them.

[SCCY Marshal]

...Hammer nose snapped off my model 67 during the morning's dryfire. A ways into the break was black with corrosion and fouling so it's been cracked for God only knows how long...

Never managed to find a replacement hammer nose long enough to function. So I just ordered two full hammers on E-bay. Well, both with noses. Anyway, one came in with a sprung nose and one free tilting like the one I broke. Opted to put in the sprung unit as it was in better shape (free-tilting had a flat developing on the bottom at the tip). While testing with snap caps, all looked good until checking single-action. It's not the worst case of push-off I've seen but still won't carry a gun with ANY. Now to check the other hammer and see if that will work. This little issue is turning into months of disappointment.

[Half Moon]

Never managed to find a replacement hammer nose long enough to function. So I just ordered two full hammers on E-bay. Well, both with noses. Anyway, one came in with a sprung nose and one free tilting like the one I broke. Opted to put in the sprung unit as it was in better shape (free-tilting had a flat developing on the bottom at the tip). While testing with snap caps, all looked good until checking single-action. It's not the worst case of push-off I've seen but still won't carry a gun with ANY. Now to check the other hammer and see if that will work. This little issue is turning into months of disappointment.

Not sure if this is helpful but:

https://jackfirstinc.com/sw-old-model-k-frame-hammer-nose-firing-pin-7580

I've used some of their reproduction parts in a couple antique semiautos with good results. Don't know if the hammer nose you need for the 67 is a match for this but probably worth a look.

[SCCY Marshal]

Not sure if this is helpful but:

https://jackfirstinc.com/sw-old-model-k-frame-hammer-nose-firing-pin-7580

I've used some of their reproduction parts in a couple antique semiautos with good results. Don't know if the hammer nose you need for the 67 is a match for this but probably worth a look.

Looks promising. I'll get one or two ordered up after payday. Thanks!

[SCCY Marshal]

Third hammer seems promising. Double-action sear needed fitting so I just used the one from my original hammer, instead. No push-off with this arrangement. Looking at the bad hammer, somone significantly thinned the engagement surface and chased the dragon too far. I'll keep that one, bob it, grind off the single-action surface entirely, and pair with the double-action bits for future fitment to a gun that might use such a thing.

I'll head out to run a box of ammo around lunch and check for reliable ignition. Probably ball and dummy draws to first hits for a couple cylinders then the rest precision shooting from seven to twenty-five yards both single and double-action. If it works, I'll finally have my field and camping gun back.

A 158 grain semi-wadcutter or round nose flat point with wide meplat moving at a staid pace is a bit more reasonable and easier on the ears for opportunistic shots at squirrel, rabbit, grouse, crow, 'coon, 'possum, fox, and such than a full magnum JHP. Gun's lighter than the 28 that's been filling the slot as well.

Making the Combat Masterpiece out of stainless was one of Smith's better ideas. Shame it wasn't more popular.

[SCCY Marshal]

Forty-two rounds downrange without an issue beyond my ammo shortage induced skill atrophy. Now I just need to cast and powdercoat more of my wide meplat 158 grain RNFP and cook up a Unique load that will hit to sights in my model 10s and clock 800+ feet per second. Zero the 67 for that and call it good.

[revchuck38]

About 5 grains of Unique should do it. Something cleaner-burning would be nice if you have any.

[jtcarm]

my wide meplat 158 grain RNFP

What mold are you casting from? Pictures?

[SCCY Marshal]

What mold are you casting from? Pictures?

A six cavity Lee 358-158-RF. This short thread on Cast Boolits covers it well with mold photo on page 1 and photo of bullet and loaded cartridge on the second page:

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?169350-lee-358-158-grain-flat-point

I like it, so far. Casts well with range scrap, takes powder coat well, sizes easily, the bevel base lets me bell my cases a bit less for possible longevity, plays nice with Unique in 38 Special, and ~1,200FPS H110 loads in 357 Magnum. My seating die marks a score through the powder coat around the ogive, though. Meplat is so fat both the round nose and SWC seating plugs do it. Other than aesthetics, it isn't enough to cause any bother so I'm not spending money on another die or plug.

[Dave T]

Good looking bullet. I can't cast anymore so I'm a bit envious. (smile)

Dave