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Seven_Sicks_Two
06-25-2012, 12:47 AM
Just looking for a bit of advice...

I just purchased a used Glock 19. It's fairly high mileage as it used to be a range rental gun. I know that it is going to need sights (the front sight broke off and the rear is for an XS Big Dot), a new trigger spring (broken already) and a new recoil spring (just because). I put about 20 rounds through it to function test it. Extraction is what I would consider robust and consistently at about 4 o'clock. I was planning on replacing the connector with a Glock factory 3.5# unit since the gun will be apart anyways as well as replacing the slide stop and mag release with the oversized Vickers parts. Is there anything else that I should consider replacing. Striker? Channel liner? Spring cups? Any other parts? I'll be using it for an upcoming class and I don't really want it to take a dump on me. Thanks in advance for the help.

ToddG
06-25-2012, 06:23 AM
Buying a rental gun is like buying a frat house. You've got no idea what's gone on inside but you know it was bad.

Given how cheap the parts are for Glocks, if you want maximum reliability and durability I'd replace all the pins and springs, slide release, striker, spring cups, and takedown lever. Examine the striker block to see if it's worn and replace it if you have any doubt (or if it fails the striker block test). I'd keep an extractor and locking block lying around just in case, too.

JBP55
06-25-2012, 11:23 AM
If you are going to replace everything suggested by Todd (good idea for a rental gun) including the firing pin I would replace the trigger/trigger bar as well.

JV_
06-25-2012, 12:04 PM
I would replace the trigger/trigger bar as well.With the number of Gen3/4 dead triggers that are cropping up, specifically with guns produced recently, I'm not sure I would do this until those reports die down. The part that's getting replaced to fix the issue is the trigger bar.

ToddG
06-25-2012, 12:08 PM
With the number of Gen3/4 dead triggers that are cropping up, specifically with guns produced recently, I'm not sure I would do this until those reports die down. The part that's getting replaced to fix the issue is the trigger bar.

That's why I didn't mention the ejector and suggested getting, but not installing, an extractor. Those two parts are probably (usually) ok now, but if what you've got works, I wouldn't frak with it.

Seven_Sicks_Two
06-25-2012, 09:56 PM
Thanks for all of the quick replies fellas. I detail stripped the frame today to see if anything else was visibly damaged or worn. Everything to be in decent shape, but I'll be taking your advice and replacing all the springs and pins as a pre-emptive measure. I know that I'll be using the Vickers slide stop and mag release, but was planning on using stock parts to replace everything else unless there are any other specific aftermarket parts I should be using instead.


Buying a rental gun is like buying a frat house. You've got no idea what's gone on inside but you know it was bad.

Having lived in a frat house for 3 years and worked at a range for 5, I can assure you that this statement is 100% accurate. Both of them are pretty well thrashed and covered in other people's DNA.

lamarbrog
06-26-2012, 01:35 AM
Disclaimer: I am not a certified Glock armorer. I do, however, have first hand experience maintaining high round count Glock pistols at the range I work at. My opinion is worth whatever you choose to value it at.

The things we see go bad on Glocks are springs. The "Achilles heel" trigger spring is our #1 problem, followed by the slide stop spring. I doubt the prior owner replaced the recoil spring on any reasonable schedule. I would replace all three of those right off the bat. (It sounds like you already are planning on that.)

Beyond that I personally would just detail strip it, blow it clean with Brake Parts Cleaner from WalMart, and check to make sure sear engagement is sufficient. If anything was obviously worn or damaged I'd replace it. I'd probably try to locate a spare ejector, extractor, and locking block before the class and keep them on hand just in case. The only time I can remember seeing a locking block fail it did not actually prevent normal operation of the pistol- but you never know.

The ideal would obviously be a spare pistol- that's the approach I've traditionally taken. That's obviously not always realistic, though.