Knife Lube

[SmokeJumper]

Read some good posts here and just realized I think I'm in need of some more lube for knife pivots. I bought some Mili-Tec years ago from Benchmade when that was their recommended lubricant, but it's all gone now. Chris Reeve grease on his folders, but what about the other knives? I use Sentry Solutions Tuff CLoth to coat my blades for extra corrosion protection. But what are you using to lube the pivots, Break-Free, Slip-2000, Benchmade Blue Lube?
My apologies if this has been covered recently

[blues]

Read some good posts here and just realized I think I'm in need of some more lube for knife pivots. I bought some Mili-Tec years ago from Benchmade when that was their recommended lubricant, but it's all gone now. Chris Reeve grease on his folders, but what about the other knives? I use Sentry Solutions Tuff CLoth to coat my blades for extra corrosion protection. But what are you using to lube the pivots, Break-Free, Slip-2000, Benchmade Blue Lube?
My apologies if this has been covered recently

I use what's closest...Tuf-Glide, Ballistol, SuperLube, Slip 2000 / EWL, Break Free, they all work just fine, imho. I've never taken my knives apart to grease them. YMMV.

[vcdgrips]

After watching some disassembly videos on the Nick Shabazz YT Chanel, I have been trying
this Daiwa product. Comes pre packaged with a high precision applicator. I am happy.

I am also certain that most any light oil applied to a clean knife would work just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005112BDW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[momano]

Mineral oil- it's food grade, (used as a laxative), and I think it's the base of Balistol.

[Joe45]

Tuf-glide is usually my first choice.

[Cookie Monster]

Ballistol. Thought a majority of my knives are fixed. I use it on my falling axes, Pulaskis, and shovels as well.

[Duelist]

If you ever use the knife to cut food, I recommend food grade mineral oil.

[SmokeJumper]

Great info, forgot about the Ballistol

[BrassSlapper]

Eh, I'm a grubby heathen. I'll use a tiny dab of Mobil-1 synthetic and call it a day.

[GearFondler]

Lube is a shit magnet... I leave mine dry.

[Joe S]

Longtime knife guy, my 2 pennies: most of mine I run dry. If it's getting sticky or gritty, it needs to be cleaned well with dish detergent and very hot running water.

If you felt like it needs it, a drop of whatever you have handy is fine. Any machine oil, I used to use RemOil, mineral oil for food use. Just rinse and wipe down after heavy use. Food/organic matter gets dish detergent and water, alcohol (ethanol wipes are super handy for this away from home, have multiple uses, isopropyl works in a pinch).

I usually leave carbon steel naked if it's being used often enough. Stuff in storage that is rust prone gets Renaissance Wax.

[GearFondler]

Another reason I leave mine dry is that virtually all of my folders are frame locks.
Frame locks and Liner locks do not appreciate any oil or lubricant on the locking surfaces and oil will always migrate onto the lock face... Always.
You can avoid that by using grease but that means taking the knife apart to apply it properly and that's just too much of a hassle.

[blues]

Another reason I leave mine dry is that virtually all of my folders are frame locks.
Frame locks and Liner locks do not appreciate any oil or lubricant on the locking surfaces and oil will always migrate onto the lock face... Always.
You can avoid that by using grease but that means taking the knife apart to apply it properly and that's just too much of a hassle.

I have not found this to be problematic, though I am careful with my application and have decades of experience doing so. In any case...mileage will vary from one person to another...and what is right for one is not necessarily right for another.

(I never over lube, but I do like to apply when I feel that the action is beginning to feel a bit less fluid.)

[GearFondler]

In any case...mileage will vary from one person to another...and what is right for one is not necessarily right for another.


Agreed... Many of us have been "knife guys" for more decades than we want to consider and each of us has found our own system. And each of us is right in our own way. There is no One Answer.

[Crazy Dane]

Amazon.com: Hetman Light Rotor Lubricant 11 Light: Musical Instruments (https://www.amazon.com/Hetman-Light-Rotor-Lubricant-11/dp/B0002E52IY/ref=psdc_552518_t3_B00ELNGB2S)

I have played with oils designed for musical instruments for off label use and have found the #11 light rotor oil to be amazing at slicking up my Benchmades. Its not sticky and doesn't attract pocket lint or dirt. The oil is very thin and doesn't seem to stick around on flat surfaces but seem to have some staying power inside the pivot joint. A drop is all it takes to get the sluggishness out so a 1 ounce bottle should last a lifetime.

[5pins]

Just a drop or two of whatever gun lube is handy on the pivot.

[Jason M]

Not sure how long this has been on the market but it seems our friends at Slip 2000 make a knife specific product.

http://www.slip2000.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60380

[mtnbkr]

Amazon.com: Hetman Light Rotor Lubricant 11 Light: Musical Instruments (https://www.amazon.com/Hetman-Light-Rotor-Lubricant-11/dp/B0002E52IY/ref=psdc_552518_t3_B00ELNGB2S)

I have played with oils designed for musical instruments for off label use and have found the #11 light rotor oil to be amazing at slicking up my Benchmades. Its not sticky and doesn't attract pocket lint or dirt. The oil is very thin and doesn't seem to stick around on flat surfaces but seem to have some staying power inside the pivot joint. A drop is all it takes to get the sluggishness out so a 1 ounce bottle should last a lifetime.

Hmm...off to raid my trumpet case...

Chris

[Duelist]

Amazon.com: Hetman Light Rotor Lubricant 11 Light: Musical Instruments (https://www.amazon.com/Hetman-Light-Rotor-Lubricant-11/dp/B0002E52IY/ref=psdc_552518_t3_B00ELNGB2S)

I have played with oils designed for musical instruments for off label use and have found the #11 light rotor oil to be amazing at slicking up my Benchmades. Its not sticky and doesn't attract pocket lint or dirt. The oil is very thin and doesn't seem to stick around on flat surfaces but seem to have some staying power inside the pivot joint. A drop is all it takes to get the sluggishness out so a 1 ounce bottle should last a lifetime.

Oh, snap! I used to do that. I played French Horn from 5th grade till I was a senior and got braces (blood is bad for making music), and always had a bottle of rotary valve lube in my case, so all of my slip joint knives naturally would get that oil used whenever they needed lube since that’s what I always had handy.

[blues]

"Snake Oil" now with even more snake. ;)

[mtnbkr]

Amazon.com: Hetman Light Rotor Lubricant 11 Light: Musical Instruments (https://www.amazon.com/Hetman-Light-Rotor-Lubricant-11/dp/B0002E52IY/ref=psdc_552518_t3_B00ELNGB2S)

I have played with oils designed for musical instruments for off label use and have found the #11 light rotor oil to be amazing at slicking up my Benchmades. Its not sticky and doesn't attract pocket lint or dirt. The oil is very thin and doesn't seem to stick around on flat surfaces but seem to have some staying power inside the pivot joint. A drop is all it takes to get the sluggishness out so a 1 ounce bottle should last a lifetime.

This post got me to try Ultra-Pure Light Bearing Oil (https://www.ultrapureoils.com/product-page/ultra-pure-light-bearing-oil-upo-lbo-20ml), which is the lube I use on my trumpet's valves (it doesn't dry out and stick my valves when I don't play for months at a time). I disassembled and cleaned my Ontario Rat 1, gave it few drops of UPLBO, and put it back together. At worst, it's as slick as it was with the light grease I used before. It might be a touch better. Another benefit is it'll work better with my slipjoints that can't be taken apart for cleaning and lubing.

I have UP's Professional Valve Oil as well, but that is a bit too thin for knives with bushings. It might be ok for bearing pivot knives.

Chris