J frame lock delete...do I leave the internal safety flag thingy?

[TCB]

Just finally got one of the lock plugs for the J frame I’ve been occasionally carrying around for years and am putting in a Apex duty/carry kit at the same time. I already have the lock plug in and am wondering if I should ditch the internal part that actually blocks the trigger as well? It doesn’t seem to serve a purpose now but it will leave a small hole in the frame...is that a problem. I probably should have asked this a couple hours ago because I already ground down the tab on it with a dremmel so that even if something got in there and pushed it up into the “lock” position it would not be able to block the hammer. Should I just junk the piece? If so how do I fill the hole in the frame that it leaves?

[SAWBONES]

Removing the "flag" causes no problem at all.
Get rid of the entire lock apparatus, leaving only the plug and the spring clip which retains the plug.

I've done this on both of my "lock-infested" S&W 340PDs; absolutely reliable resultant function.

[TCB]

Yea, that’s what I figured. What about the little hole it leaves in the frame? Something to be concerned about? A dab of epoxy? I have some JB weld laying around somewhere...

[Det1397]

Yea, that’s what I figured. What about the little hole it leaves in the frame? Something to be concerned about? A dab of epoxy? I have some JB weld laying around somewhere...

This gentleman, over on the smith-wessonforum makes “The Plug”. Check him out!
http://smith-wessonforum.com/accessories-misc-sale-trade/621799-true-plug-sale-new-prices.html?621799=#post140811353

[TCB]

The lock plug is what I just installed. There is (would be) a much smaller hole to the rear of the lock hole where the lock “flag” rides if I remove it. That is what I’m looking to fill.

[Michpatriot]

Well if I was doin one I'd counter sink both sides just a touch, then I'd insert a aluminum tig welding rod and carefully peen it into the countersink just like a rivet till flush. A dab of Casey's aluminum black, lifetime repair. Or JB that with a little black aluminum oxide pressed in to the surface before it skins over. Glue can soften with cleaning agents...me no likey glue on guns.

[fatdog]

If you grind flat the finger on the flag that is actually the thing that engages the locking slot in the hammer, it does not really matter what else you do. Put a plug in the slot, leave the original lock in that hole (it no longer does anything when turned), or pull it all out and leave an empty hole.

[TCB]

I ended up putting the lock plug in and grinding down the flag so it can’t engage the trigger but left it in to keep the hole plugged. I’d rather have pulled it out and filled the hole somehow but leaving it was easier. The Apex kit went in easy and while not a huge difference (this 442 is pretty broken in), the trigger does feel better than it did before the install.