Need instructions for Glock 44 rear sight adjustment

[HJB]

I just bought a Glock 44 because I don't want to shoot up my stock of 9mm ammo and I can still find cheap 22 ammo. I like the G44 because it is the exact same dimensions as my EDC so it feels pretty much the same as my Glock 19 except for the recoil.

But, I'll be darned if I can find anywhere that tells me what direction to turn the adjustment screws on the rear sight to change the elevation and windage. I can't believe that even the owners manual does not tell the answer to that. I have looked all over the internet and don't seem to be able to find that information anywhere.

Does anyone know somewhere that information is available ?

Thanks....

[peterb]

I just bought a Glock 44 because I don't want to shoot up my stock of 9mm ammo and I can still find cheap 22 ammo. I like the G44 because it is the exact same dimensions as my EDC so it feels pretty much the same as my Glock 19 except for the recoil.

But, I'll be darned if I can find anywhere that tells me what direction to turn the adjustment screws on the rear sight to change the elevation and windage. I can't believe that even the owners manual does not tell the answer to that. I have looked all over the internet and don't seem to be able to find that information anywhere.

Does anyone know somewhere that information is available ?

Thanks....

“Sights are the familiar white outlined U-notch rear and white-dot front. The rear sight is adjustable for both elevation and windage, but the elevation adjustment is somewhat unusual. Both adjustment screws are on the right side of the sight. The windage adjustment is a conventional screw, but the elevation adjustment is a cam that lifts the sight in the housing. Half a rotation provides all the elevation change available and a full rotation puts the rear sight back where it was.“

Found this relating to the standard Glock adjustable rear:

“ Turn windage screw (lower front screw) clockwise to go right, counter clockwise to go left.

When you turn the height adjustment it just goes all the way up and then starts at the bottom again. Three clicks up on mine takes it to about where a G17 is so I would start with four clicks up from the lowest, shoot from a rest and see where you are to start with.”

[HJB]

“Sights are the familiar white outlined U-notch rear and white-dot front. The rear sight is adjustable for both elevation and windage, but the elevation adjustment is somewhat unusual. Both adjustment screws are on the right side of the sight. The windage adjustment is a conventional screw, but the elevation adjustment is a cam that lifts the sight in the housing. Half a rotation provides all the elevation change available and a full rotation puts the rear sight back where it was.“

Found this relating to the standard Glock adjustable rear:

“ Turn windage screw (lower front screw) clockwise to go right, counter clockwise to go left.

When you turn the height adjustment it just goes all the way up and then starts at the bottom again. Three clicks up on mine takes it to about where a G17 is so I would start with four clicks up from the lowest, shoot from a rest and see where you are to start with.”

Thanks for that, it helps a lot. That's what I was looking for but could not seem to find it anywhere.

I appreciate your reply.

[HeavyDuty]

My personal experience with these is that they are frustrating enough to replace.

[HJB]

My personal experience with these is that they are frustrating enough to replace.

What did you replace them with ? I have read that you must be careful what you replace them with since the slide is plastic. Did you replace them yourself or have it done by a gunsmith ?

[HeavyDuty]

What did you replace them with ? I have read that you must be careful what you replace them with since the slide is plastic. Did you replace them yourself or have it done by a gunsmith ?
My experience with them is not on a G44, but that does sound like a concern. Maybe normal Glock fixed polymer sights are an option?

[HJB]

So your frustration is with adjustable sights in general and not necessarily the ones on the Glock 44 ?

I have adjustable sights on my S&W .22 compact and adjusted them once, marked the positions with white marker and have never had to touch them again.

I will have to see how it shoots and if I can adjust it to my desired POA/POI first and then leave them alone. If they will do that then I would be pretty reluctant to try to change them because of the plastic slide. Other than that, they look exactly like any other standard Glock plastic sights which is fine with me because I will only shoot this at the range most likely so don't really see the need to change to night sights or ameriglo type sights.

Thanks for your comments.

[HeavyDuty]

So your frustration is with adjustable sights in general and not necessarily the ones on the Glock 44 ?

I have adjustable sights on my S&W .22 compact and adjusted them once, marked the positions with white marker and have never had to touch them again.

I will have to see how it shoots and if I can adjust it to my desired POA/POI first and then leave them alone. If they will do that then I would be pretty reluctant to try to change them because of the plastic slide. Other than that, they look exactly like any other standard Glock plastic sights which is fine with me because I will only shoot this at the range most likely so don't really see the need to change to night sights or ameriglo type sights.

Thanks for your comments.

Not with adjustable sights at all, but with Glock’s implementation of them. They have an odd rotating cam design with limited range, in my experience they tend to vibrate out of adjustment, and they are fragile. (My late wife broke four or five of them over the years, all by handling and not from recoil.) Legend has it they were designed quickly to add points for import, and they weren’t really intended for serious use.

[HJB]

Not with adjustable sights at all, but with Glock’s implementation of them. They have an odd rotating cam design with limited range, in my experience they tend to vibrate out of adjustment, and they are fragile. (My late wife broke four or five of them over the years, all by handling and not from recoil.) Legend has it they were designed quickly to add points for import, and they weren’t really intended for serious use.

Well, I have ameriglo sights on my Glock 19 and they are great. If a .22 will vibrate them out of adjustment, then I will consider changing them, but this is only for some target shooting for fun. The gun won't get much banging so I hope they don't get broken. I'm mostly concerned because I have seen several reviews that said the gun shoots high even with the rear sight at the bottom adjustment. If I end up with one that is like that, I will most likely change the front sight to a different height. That's pretty easy and should not risk damage to the plastic slide.

Thanks again for your comments and help.

[HJB]

Went to the range this morning and fired a couple of hundred rounds of Federal Bulk ammo through my new Glock 44 with absolutely no problems of any kind.

I was primarily shooting to try to fine tune the sights on it. I used a rest and fired about 20 shots at 5 yards and it had a definite POI that was left of center. So I made a 1/2 turn change on the windage to the right. Still had some noticeable POI to the right of the POA, so made another 1/2 turn on the screw. Now seemed to be centered very well.

So, moved out to 7 yards and had a centered shot group for windage, but definitely shooting high. So, I made an adjustment moving the sight down and it moved to the very bottom of its range with about 1/2 turn on the screw. That brought it pretty well in to center using a 6 o'clock hold but I could not adjust any more even if I wanted to. So, I'm satisfied with the POI now but I'm a little surprised that those adjustments were necessary and especially that the elevation bottomed out with only one move on the adjustment.

So, shot about 80 more rounds, half at 5 yards and half at 7 yards, and got very good, well centered groupings at both distances. At 5 yards, everything within a 2 inch circle and at 7 yards, everything within a 3 inch circle. Considering how bad my eyes are I felt like that was good enough.

[Whirlwind06]

I ordered the 4 plastic OEM sights of the different heights that Glock sells. Figured that one of those should be the correct one and should be better then the adjustable one that came on the 44.


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[HeavyDuty]

I ordered the 4 plastic OEM sights of the different heights that Glock sells. Figured that one of those should be the correct one and should be better then the adjustable one that came on the 44.


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I think this is a good approach. The only reason I leave the adjustables on my late wife’s 21 is sentiment - I definitely don’t consider them to be desirable sights.

[BillSWPA]

I ordered the 4 plastic OEM sights of the different heights that Glock sells. Figured that one of those should be the correct one and should be better then the adjustable one that came on the 44.


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I am seriously considering the same approach, starting with 6.5 mm.


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[jandbj]

I am seriously considering the same approach, starting with 6.5 mm.


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Install those factory fixed sights backwards and then you get a plain black rear sight. I sharpie’d out the goal post on my factory G44 adjustable rear and added an Ameriglo defoor plain black narrow front sight.

[BillSWPA]

Install those factory fixed sights backwards and then you get a plain black rear sight. I sharpie’d out the goal post on my factory G44 adjustable rear and added an Ameriglo defoor plain black narrow front sight.

This is a good idea for those who like black sights. I am probably one of the few shooters who likes the Glock sight picture. The biggest advantages for me are the certainty with which the fixed sights will maintain adjustment once installed as well as the plastic construction to avoid damaging the plastic dovetails.

[HeavyDuty]

This is a good idea for those who like black sights. I am probably one of the few shooters who likes the Glock sight picture. The biggest advantages for me are the certainty with which the fixed sights will maintain adjustment once installed as well as the plastic construction to avoid damaging the plastic dovetails.

I used to love the Glock ball in the box until my eyes started going to shit.

[HJB]

Went to the range this morning and fired a couple of hundred rounds of Federal Bulk ammo through my new Glock 44 with absolutely no problems of any kind.

I was primarily shooting to try to fine tune the sights on it. I used a rest and fired about 20 shots at 5 yards and it had a definite POI that was left of center. So I made a 1/2 turn change on the windage to the right. Still had some noticeable POI to the right of the POA, so made another 1/2 turn on the screw. Now seemed to be centered very well.

So, moved out to 7 yards and had a centered shot group for windage, but definitely shooting high. So, I made an adjustment moving the sight down and it moved to the very bottom of its range with about 1/2 turn on the screw. That brought it pretty well in to center using a 6 o'clock hold but I could not adjust any more even if I wanted to. So, I'm satisfied with the POI now but I'm a little surprised that those adjustments were necessary and especially that the elevation bottomed out with only one move on the adjustment.

So, shot about 80 more rounds, half at 5 yards and half at 7 yards, and got very good, well centered groupings at both distances. At 5 yards, everything within a 2 inch circle and at 7 yards, everything within a 3 inch circle. Considering how bad my eyes are I felt like that was good enough.

OK back to the range today for some more "sighting" activities. Now, out to 15 yards, shots were consistently above POA by as much as 3 or 4 inches. But, there is no more adjustment available in the rear sight so will have to live with this. It is well centered at 5 and 7 yards and that is where I will do most shooting. I guess I could replace the front sight to get some more adjustment room but looks to me like there is no where that 5, 7 and 15 yards are all going to shoot POI at the same POA. Seems that this .22 definitely gains altitude at least out to 15 yards. I read somewhere that Glock sights these to be POA = POI at 25 yards so it must start dropping past 15 yards.

Windage sighting was very well centered at 15 yards just as it was at the 5 and 7 yard targets. Seems to be well aligned on that axis.

[peterb]

OK back to the range today for some more "sighting" activities. Now, out to 15 yards, shots were consistently above POA by as much as 3 or 4 inches. But, there is no more adjustment available in the rear sight so will have to live with this. It is well centered at 5 and 7 yards and that is where I will do most shooting. I guess I could replace the front sight to get some more adjustment room but looks to me like there is no where that 5, 7 and 15 yards are all going to shoot POI at the same POA. Seems that this .22 definitely gains altitude at least out to 15 yards. I read somewhere that Glock sights these to be POA = POI at 25 yards so it must start dropping past 15 yards.

Windage sighting was very well centered at 15 yards just as it was at the 5 and 7 yard targets. Seems to be well aligned on that axis.

Something's wrong. A difference of 3 or 4 inches in POI moving from 7 to 15 yards doesn't make sense.

Here's the CCI standard velocity trajectory plot when sighted in at 100 yards:

61177

That's probably a rifle barrel, so a pistol will be a bit steeper, but still much less than what you're seeing.

[HJB]

Something's wrong. A difference of 3 or 4 inches in POI moving from 7 to 15 yards doesn't make sense.

Here's the CCI standard velocity trajectory plot when sighted in at 100 yards:

61177

That's probably a rifle barrel, so a pistol will be a bit steeper, but still much less than what you're seeing.

Yes, I see what you are saying. So when I go back to the range next week, I will shoot some more at 7 and 15 yards and again see what kind of variation I get. I guess looking at that chart that it should be much closer from 7 to 15 yards. So, I will check it again and be more precise on measuring the difference.

Thanks for that help and information.

[BillSWPA]

Yes, I see what you are saying. So when I go back to the range next week, I will shoot some more at 7 and 15 yards and again see what kind of variation I get. I guess looking at that chart that it should be much closer from 7 to 15 yards. So, I will check it again and be more precise on measuring the difference.

Thanks for that help and information.

If I understand correctly, you are using a 6:00 hold to hit at 7 yards? This means that the trajectory of the bullet crosses the line from the sights to the target before that 7 yard point. I would expect that bullet to continue rising at least out to 25 yards, perhaps dropping a bit before reaching 50 yards. So, your 15 yard results do not surprise me.

When I first shot my G44, I was convinced that I did not need to adjust the sights from the factory setting, but my most recent outing caused me to question that finding. Reports in this thread of the sights shifting due to slide reciprocation have made me curious. These sights were designed primarily to enable the G26 and G27 to score enough sporting purposes points to permit importation, and were never highly regarded.

[peterb]

If I understand correctly, you are using a 6:00 hold to hit at 7 yards? This means that the trajectory of the bullet crosses the line from the sights to the target before that 7 yard point. I would expect that bullet to continue rising at least out to 25 yards, perhaps dropping a bit before reaching 50 yards. So, your 15 yard results do not surprise me.

For a 3-4” change in POI in 8-10 yards, the angle between the sight axis and the bore axis would have to be huge.

[BillSWPA]

For a 3-4” change in POI in 8-10 yards, the angle between the sight axis and the bore axis would have to be huge.

What is the size of the black circle on your target?

[peterb]

Yes, I see what you are saying. So when I go back to the range next week, I will shoot some more at 7 and 15 yards and again see what kind of variation I get. I guess looking at that chart that it should be much closer from 7 to 15 yards. So, I will check it again and be more precise on measuring the difference.

Thanks for that help and information.

I’d suggest starting very close —5 yards or less — and increasing the distance in known steps. I’d expect it to shoot low at close range because of the distance between the sight axis and the bore axis. That’s only a half-inch or so.

Going by the subsonic table here, http://www.gunsmoke.com/guns/1022/22ballistics.html
a .22LR bullet will drop roughly an inch at 25 yards. The subsonic table is probably closer to pistol velocities. The trajectory chart assumes a 1.5” offset(scoped rifle) so is not directly applicable.

[HJB]

I’d suggest starting very close —5 yards or less — and increasing the distance in known steps. I’d expect it to shoot low at close range because of the distance between the sight axis and the bore axis. That’s only a half-inch or so.

Going by the subsonic table here, http://www.gunsmoke.com/guns/1022/22ballistics.html
a .22LR bullet will drop roughly an inch at 25 yards. The subsonic table is probably closer to pistol velocities. The trajectory chart assumes a 1.5” offset(scoped rifle) so is not directly applicable.

Interesting because I don't think I can even get it to shoot low at 5 yards because I had to adjust the rear sight as low as it would go just to get it to center. Both the 5 and 7 yard distances center pretty well in that position. To get it to shoot any lower, I guess I would have to put a different height front sight in it, which is pretty simple.

But I still think the distance above center I think i got at 15 yards still seems to not be possible based on the chart from peterb. It should not be more than an inch at 15 yards (if even that) when it is centered at 7 yards.

The inner ring on the target I'm using is 1 inch in diameter and my POA is at the dead center of that ring. My sight alignment position is for the top of my sights to be aligned directly over the equator of that ring.

[HJB]

I’d suggest starting very close —5 yards or less — and increasing the distance in known steps. I’d expect it to shoot low at close range because of the distance between the sight axis and the bore axis. That’s only a half-inch or so.

Going by the subsonic table here, http://www.gunsmoke.com/guns/1022/22ballistics.html
a .22LR bullet will drop roughly an inch at 25 yards. The subsonic table is probably closer to pistol velocities. The trajectory chart assumes a 1.5” offset(scoped rifle) so is not directly applicable.

i will be doing that again next week when I go to the range and will keep my targets and be able to more accurately describe what I am getting. It's only a gun for some target shooting fun so certainly not critical, but still kind of fun to do a little bit or experimentation and try to better understand what is happening.

So if I interpret the chart correctly, that there is no way to sight a .22 pistol and have POA=POI at 5, 7 and 15 yards. Either accept some shots to be low at 5 and 7 yards (maybe as much as 1 inch), or sight it so that POA=POI at 15 yards and expect it to be as much as an inch low at 5 and 7 yards, and then still be very slightly high all the way out to 52 yards. Well I don't expect to be shooting at more than 15 to 20 yards with this gun so I think I will still probably try to zero it at about 5 to 7 yards or maybe even 7 to 10 yards.

Does that sound about right to you ?

Thanks a lot for your help and information.

[BillSWPA]

i will be doing that again next week when I go to the range and will keep my targets and be able to more accurately describe what I am getting. It's only a gun for some target shooting fun so certainly not critical, but still kind of fun to do a little bit or experimentation and try to better understand what is happening.

So if I interpret the chart correctly, that there is no way to sight a .22 pistol and have POA=POI at 5, 7 and 15 yards. Either accept some shots to be low at 5 and 7 yards (maybe as much as 1 inch), or sight it so that POA=POI at 15 yards and expect it to be as much as an inch low at 5 and 7 yards, and then still be very slightly high all the way out to 52 yards. Well I don't expect to be shooting at more than 15 to 20 yards with this gun so I think I will still probably try to zero it at about 5 to 7 yards or maybe even 7 to 10 yards.

Does that sound about right to you ?

Thanks a lot for your help and information.

If you can get it zeroed at closer distances, and then re-zero at a longer distance, it should still be reasonably close at the closer distances. If zeroing at closer distances, try to get as close as possible to the point of impact being the top of the front sight rather than a 6:00 hold so that the change at longer distances is not as great. At the longer distances, either a top of the front sight hold or a 6:00 hold should work fine.

[HJB]

If you can get it zeroed at closer distances, and then re-zero at a longer distance, it should still be reasonably close at the closer distances. If zeroing at closer distances, try to get as close as possible to the point of impact being the top of the front sight rather than a 6:00 hold so that the change at longer distances is not as great. At the longer distances, either a top of the front sight hold or a 6:00 hold should work fine.

It is zeroed now at 5 and 7 yards, and I can't re-zero at 15 yards because there is no more downward movement in the rear sight. It is all the way down.

I'm somewhat confused because what I am calling a 6 o'clock hold to me is at the "top of the front sight" I align the top of front sight with the top of the rear sights in my sight picture and lay that line at the dead center point on the target. It bisects the top and bottom half of the X ring on the target which is 1 inch in diameter. Is that not a "6 o'clock hold" ?

[BillSWPA]

It is zeroed now at 5 and 7 yards, and I can't re-zero at 15 yards because there is no more downward movement in the rear sight. It is all the way down.

I'm somewhat confused because what I am calling a 6 o'clock hold to me is at the "top of the front sight" I align the top of front sight with the top of the rear sights in my sight picture and lay that line at the dead center point on the target. It bisects the top and bottom half of the X ring on the target which is 1 inch in diameter. Is that not a "6 o'clock hold" ?

A 6:00 hold places the top of the front sight tangent to the bottom edge of the black circle on a bullseye target. So, to hit the center of the target, the bullet has already crossed over the line from the sights to the target, and traveled up a couple of inches from there.

From your above quote, at 5-7 yards, your bullet is intersecting the line between the sights and the target. I would expect some upward travel at 15 yards, but with that trajectory, I would not expect a 3-4 inch difference.

I am also seeing some inconsistency in my shooting with the G44 that I will attempt to isolate and correct tomorrow. I now have the 6.5 mm plastic fixed rear sight (standard height on most 9mm Glocks including the 19), which I may install at the range to see if the difference between the fixed and adjustable sights makes any difference. I am still waiting for the 6.1 mm, 6.9 mm, and 7.3 mm sights to arrive.

[HJB]

A 6:00 hold places the top of the front sight tangent to the bottom edge of the black circle on a bullseye target. So, to hit the center of the target, the bullet has already crossed over the line from the sights to the target, and traveled up a couple of inches from there.

From your above quote, at 5-7 yards, your bullet is intersecting the line between the sights and the target. I would expect some upward travel at 15 yards, but with that trajectory, I would not expect a 3-4 inch difference.

I am also seeing some inconsistency in my shooting with the G44 that I will attempt to isolate and correct tomorrow. I now have the 6.5 mm plastic fixed rear sight (standard height on most 9mm Glocks including the 19), which I may install at the range to see if the difference between the fixed and adjustable sights makes any difference. I am still waiting for the 6.1 mm, 6.9 mm, and 7.3 mm sights to arrive.

Doesn't that depend a lot on the diameter of the "black circle on a bullseye target" ? Is there some standard target or size of it ?

I shoot at some targets where the center and smallest ring is 1 inch in diameter, but a B-27E silhouette target has an "X" ring that is an oval that is 2 inches wide and 3 inches high. So putting the edge of the front sight tangent to the bottom edge of the bulls-eye can be as much as 1/2 inch from the center of the circle up to 1.5 inches from the center can't it ?

So I was told to aim the top of the front sight at the exact point you were trying to hit. I thought that was considered a 6 o'clock hold. Maybe the reason my shots are too high is that I am aiming too high in the first place.

[BillSWPA]

Doesn't that depend a lot on the diameter of the "black circle on a bullseye target" ? Is there some standard target or size of it ?

I shoot at some targets where the center and smallest ring is 1 inch in diameter, but a B-27E silhouette target has an "X" ring that is an oval that is 2 inches wide and 3 inches high. So putting the edge of the front sight tangent to the bottom edge of the bulls-eye can be as much as 1/2 inch from the center of the circle up to 1.5 inches from the center can't it ?

So I was told to aim the top of the front sight at the exact point you were trying to hit. I thought that was considered a 6 o'clock hold. Maybe the reason my shots are too high is that I am aiming too high in the first place.

It absolutely depends on the diameter of the bullseye, which is why a 6:00 hold is used for target shooting at bullseyes which are sized for specific distances (such as 50 feet or 25 yards), and not for much else. The way you have been doing it is correct for most handguns intended for defensive purposes. Since the G44 was designed to mimic a G19, I would expect the sights to be set up to put the bullet right at the top of the front sight at some reasonable distance. So, your sight picture is correct.

[HJB]

It absolutely depends on the diameter of the bullseye, which is why a 6:00 hold is used for target shooting at bullseyes which are sized for specific distances (such as 50 feet or 25 yards), and not for much else. The way you have been doing it is correct for most handguns intended for defensive purposes. Since the G44 was designed to mimic a G19, I would expect the sights to be set up to put the bullet right at the top of the front sight at some reasonable distance. So, your sight picture is correct.

OK, thanks for that. I didn't know there were different targets for specific distances. That is the way I aim my Glock 19 and the training we received from the instructors at the police range is where I got technique from. I guess they do tend to teach more for defensive purposes that they do for target shooting.

But that is where I have been aiming my G44 and I am up against the stops as far as any more lowering of my rear sight to center at 15 yards unless I was to change out the front sight.

[HJB]

I am also seeing some inconsistency in my shooting with the G44 that I will attempt to isolate and correct tomorrow. I now have the 6.5 mm plastic fixed rear sight (standard height on most 9mm Glocks including the 19), which I may install at the range to see if the difference between the fixed and adjustable sights makes any difference. I am still waiting for the 6.1 mm, 6.9 mm, and 7.3 mm sights to arrive.

So you have already changed out the stock sights on your G44 and are getting different height sights to try too ?

How do you change that rear sight ? Do you have a sight pusher or a hammer ?

I'm wondering if I should relocate my rear sight slightly to one side because right not i have a fair amount of adjustment cranked it to mine to correct drift to the left. It definitely makes the sight off center to the housing and I was just wondering if maybe I should move the sight a little bit to the side and re-center the adjustment mechanism.

[BillSWPA]

So you have already changed out the stock sights on your G44 and are getting different height sights to try too ?

How do you change that rear sight ? Do you have a sight pusher or a hammer ?

I'm wondering if I should relocate my rear sight slightly to one side because right not i have a fair amount of adjustment cranked it to mine to correct drift to the left. It definitely makes the sight off center to the housing and I was just wondering if maybe I should move the sight a little bit to the side and re-center the adjustment mechanism.

I am leaving my adjustable sight in place to try it one more time before making the change. I will bring a sight pusher and digital caliper to the range so I can change the sight there.

Although centering the sight in the slide with the pusher and digital caliper requires repeatedly removing the slide, measuring, putting the slide back in the pusher, and adjusting, I have found that doing so enables me to get within a few thousandths of an inch of centered, which I have invariably found works well for my centerfire fixed sight handguns.

It is best to leave the adjustable sight in place, relying on the adjustments, unless and until you are ready to remove it. These adjustable sights are not known for their durability, and trying to move it could easily damage the sight. I assume that I am likely to damage or destroy the sight as I remove it.

I am currently using this tool, which is probably the best overall sight pusher available:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/sight-movers/sight-pro-sight-mover-prod60424.aspx

I have previously used the tool below, and would continue to use it for any sights for which a slide shoe is unavailable for the above tool. This tool allows me to align the pusher lower on the dovetail than many other pushers, so that I am not pushing on a delicate portion of an adjustable sight. However, it is necessary to be very careful not to allow the threads on the tool to contact the dovetail in the slide, or they WILL be damaged.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/sight-movers/p500-universal-sight-tool-prod17840.aspx

If one did not already own one of the above tools, this one looks very interesting:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/sight-movers/accusight-pistol-sight-installation-tool-prod133972.aspx

[HJB]

I am leaving my adjustable sight in place to try it one more time before making the change. I will bring a sight pusher and digital caliper to the range so I can change the sight there.

Although centering the sight in the slide with the pusher and digital caliper requires repeatedly removing the slide, measuring, putting the slide back in the pusher, and adjusting, I have found that doing so enables me to get within a few thousandths of an inch of centered, which I have invariably found works well for my centerfire fixed sight handguns.

It is best to leave the adjustable sight in place, relying on the adjustments, unless and until you are ready to remove it. These adjustable sights are not known for their durability, and trying to move it could easily damage the sight. I assume that I am likely to damage or destroy the sight as I remove it.

I am currently using this tool, which is probably the best overall sight pusher available:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/sight-movers/sight-pro-sight-mover-prod60424.aspx

I have previously used the tool below, and would continue to use it for any sights for which a slide shoe is unavailable for the above tool. This tool allows me to align the pusher lower on the dovetail than many other pushers, so that I am not pushing on a delicate portion of an adjustable sight. However, it is necessary to be very careful not to allow the threads on the tool to contact the dovetail in the slide, or they WILL be damaged.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/sight-movers/p500-universal-sight-tool-prod17840.aspx

If one did not already own one of the above tools, this one looks very interesting:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/sight-movers/accusight-pistol-sight-installation-tool-prod133972.aspx

But you have bought 3 different height sights and plan to change them out to get your Glock 44 sighted best ?

Those pushers are a little bit expensive for my needs since this is probably the only gun sight I will ever have the slightest intention of doing anything with.
But I have an idea. Maybe I'll suggest to my son-in-law that he really should have one of this in case he ever needs to change out his sights.....hmmmm

Thanks for all the chat and good luck with your gun. Let me know what you end up doing and I'll post back after I work on mine next week.

[BillSWPA]

But you have bought 3 different height sights and plan to change them out to get your Glock 44 sighted best ?

Those pushers are a little bit expensive for my needs since this is probably the only gun sight I will ever have the slightest intention of doing anything with.
But I have an idea. Maybe I'll suggest to my son-in-law that he really should have one of this in case he ever needs to change out his sights.....hmmmm

Thanks for all the chat and good luck with your gun. Let me know what you end up doing and I'll post back after I work on mine next week.

These plastic fixed sights are really inexpensive, so when the cost of shipping was factored in, it made sense to just order all 4 sizes at once so that if one does not work, I can try the others. I think the 6.5 mm will prove to be the correct size, but will know when I try.

Before I bought my first sight pusher, I was paying gunsmiths $35-$50 per sight installation. Not all of those installations were well done, and in one case the rear sight was almost hanging off the end of the slide (that gunsmith claimed it was the result of sighting in the gun). I have tritium sights on anything I use for serious purposes, and they get replaced about every 5-6 years (although some have dimmed out after 3 years or less). I save myself a lot of time, money, and frustration by being able to do this simple job myself.

[HJB]

These plastic fixed sights are really inexpensive, so when the cost of shipping was factored in, it made sense to just order all 4 sizes at once so that if one does not work, I can try the others. I think the 6.5 mm will prove to be the correct size, but will know when I try.

Before I bought my first sight pusher, I was paying gunsmiths $35-$50 per sight installation. Not all of those installations were well done, and in one case the rear sight was almost hanging off the end of the slide (that gunsmith claimed it was the result of sighting in the gun). I have tritium sights on anything I use for serious purposes, and they get replaced about every 5-6 years (although some have dimmed out after 3 years or less). I save myself a lot of time, money, and frustration by being able to do this simple job myself.

Great you sound very experienced, do quality work and already have all the equipment.

Just give me your address and I will ship any guns to you that I need to have sights replaced on !

Let me ask you one more question. Would it not be cheaper and easier to change out the front sight for different heights to fix the problem than it is to change out rear sights ?

I do have Ameriglo sights on my Glock 19. They were installed by Glock when I bought the gun.

[BillSWPA]

Great you sound very experienced, do quality work and already have all the equipment.

Just give me your address and I will ship any guns to you that I need to have sights replaced on !

Let me ask you one more question. Would it not be cheaper and easier to change out the front sight for different heights to fix the problem than it is to change out rear sights ?

I do have Ameriglo sights on my Glock 19. They were installed by Glock when I bought the gun.

The front plastic Glock sight is only available in one height. Getting different heights would require using a metal sight from an aftermarket supplier.

Give some thought to the Lyman sight pusher. A good sight pusher is useful for any semiauto with dovetail sights - Glock, 1911, and most other pistols.

[HJB]

The front plastic Glock sight is only available in one height. Getting different heights would require using a metal sight from an aftermarket supplier.

Give some thought to the Lyman sight pusher. A good sight pusher is useful for any semiauto with dovetail sights - Glock, 1911, and most other pistols.

I'm really just not planning on doing any sight replacement or realignments so wouldn't think I need a sight pusher.

But again, thanks for the discussion and ideas.

Let me know how things turn out with your experiment and your G44.

[BillSWPA]

I replaced the adjustable rear sight today with a 6.5 mm plastic fixed rear, and then went shooting. The 6.5 mm height seems about right for hitting at the top of the front sight at 25 yards. I was also able to be more consistent today, and am unsure if the difference was the sight or simply having more practice with the gun. I am happy with the sight replacement, even if the only benefit is assurance that the sight is not going to move.


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[HJB]

I replaced the adjustable rear sight today with a 6.5 mm plastic fixed rear, and then went shooting. The 6.5 mm height seems about right for hitting at the top of the front sight at 25 yards. I was also able to be more consistent today, and am unsure if the difference was the sight or simply having more practice with the gun. I am happy with the sight replacement, even if the only benefit is assurance that the sight is not going to move.


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Sounds good ! I don't even bother to try to shoot at 25 yards. I have enough of a challenge to keep them all on the paper at 15 yards. I couldn't hold anywhere close to steady enough to even really aim at the center of a target 25 yards away. What size group are you able to achieve at 25 yards ?

[BillSWPA]

Sounds good ! I don't even bother to try to shoot at 25 yards. I have enough of a challenge to keep them all on the paper at 15 yards. I couldn't hold anywhere close to steady enough to even really aim at the center of a target 25 yards away. What size group are you able to achieve at 25 yards ?

At 25 yards with this pistol I am happy if I have kept everything on the paper of a standard 25 yard bullseye target, shooting freehand using a 2 hand hold.

I need more practice.


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[HJB]

At 25 yards with this pistol I am happy if I have kept everything on the paper of a standard 25 yard bullseye target, shooting freehand using a 2 hand hold.

I need more practice.


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Maybe just for fun in the next few times I go shoot I'll give some 25 yard shots a try. I will wait until no one else is there to try it because I don't want people to laugh !

[HJB]

It absolutely depends on the diameter of the bullseye, which is why a 6:00 hold is used for target shooting at bullseyes which are sized for specific distances (such as 50 feet or 25 yards), and not for much else. The way you have been doing it is correct for most handguns intended for defensive purposes. Since the G44 was designed to mimic a G19, I would expect the sights to be set up to put the bullet right at the top of the front sight at some reasonable distance. So, your sight picture is correct.


Back to the range this morning to again check the sight zero on my Glock 44.

Zero looks great at 7 yards with a 6 o'clock hold and getting great shot groupings in and close to the bullseye.

Going out to 15 yards, was only able to get good grouping at the bullseye by holding at the bottom of the "9 ring" which is 2.5 inches below the absolute center of the bullseye. With the charts that were provided, it mystifies me how it can be that much difference between the 7 yard and 15 yard centers, but it sure is. It's not a huge problem because it's just a target plinker gun, but if it was a defense weapon I would continue to pursue this.

It actually shoots very accurately and makes a nice grouping with shots at 15 yards if I hold at the lower position. It was actually kind of fun to shoot at 15 yards so I might shoot at that distance some more. Wife also shot it at 15 yards and did pretty well for her first time to ever shoot that distance.

It really is beginning to worry me some though because she is really taking a liking to my Glock 44....she ain't getting it !

Thanks for everyone's help.

[HCM]

Back to the range this morning to again check the sight zero on my Glock 44.

Zero looks great at 7 yards with a 6 o'clock hold and getting great shot groupings in and close to the bullseye.

Going out to 15 yards, was only able to get good grouping at the bullseye by holding at the bottom of the "9 ring" which is 2.5 inches below the absolute center of the bullseye. With the charts that were provided, it mystifies me how it can be that much difference between the 7 yard and 15 yard centers, but it sure is. It's not a huge problem because it's just a target plinker gun, but if it was a defense weapon I would continue to pursue this.

It actually shoots very accurately and makes a nice grouping with shots at 15 yards if I hold at the lower position. It was actually kind of fun to shoot at 15 yards so I might shoot at that distance some more. Wife also shot it at 15 yards and did pretty well for her first time to ever shoot that distance.

It really is beginning to worry me some though because she is really taking a liking to my Glock 44....she ain't getting it !

Thanks for everyone's help.

I think the gun is mechanically accurate, it's light weight combined with a slightly heavier than normal trigger pull just makes it difficult to shoot well at distance. I find I have to grip the hell out of it to maintain accuracy.

[BillSWPA]

Back to the range this morning to again check the sight zero on my Glock 44.

Zero looks great at 7 yards with a 6 o'clock hold and getting great shot groupings in and close to the bullseye.

Going out to 15 yards, was only able to get good grouping at the bullseye by holding at the bottom of the "9 ring" which is 2.5 inches below the absolute center of the bullseye. With the charts that were provided, it mystifies me how it can be that much difference between the 7 yard and 15 yard centers, but it sure is. It's not a huge problem because it's just a target plinker gun, but if it was a defense weapon I would continue to pursue this.

It actually shoots very accurately and makes a nice grouping with shots at 15 yards if I hold at the lower position. It was actually kind of fun to shoot at 15 yards so I might shoot at that distance some more. Wife also shot it at 15 yards and did pretty well for her first time to ever shoot that distance.

It really is beginning to worry me some though because she is really taking a liking to my Glock 44....she ain't getting it !

Thanks for everyone's help.

If your wife enjoys shooting this gun, get a second one and keep this going!


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[HJB]

If your wife enjoys shooting this gun, get a second one and keep this going!


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I bought her a S&W M&P 22 compact before I bought the Glock 44. But she would also shoot my Glock 19 and likes the feel of it and really likes the trigger better than the S&W.

But she will shoot both of them some I'm sure. She actually shoots the Glock 44 better than the S&W.

But, I just don't feel like I need 3 22 caliber pistols.

[HJB]

I think the gun is mechanically accurate, it's light weight combined with a slightly heavier than normal trigger pull just makes it difficult to shoot well at distance. I find I have to grip the hell out of it to maintain accuracy.

Yes, but I was sighting it using a rest to determine the POA vs. POI. Consistency was not a problem. Azimuth was zeroed perfectly with 2 adjustments to the rear sight. It was height that was bugging me because I have lowered the sight as far as I can to zero at 7 yards and gun still shoots a couple of inches high 1t 15 yards.

[BN]

I have lowered the sight as far as I can to zero at 7 yards and gun still shoots a couple of inches high 1t 15 yards.

If you zero at 7 yards, it will shoot high at 15-25 yards. You'll want to zero at 25 yards and it will be close at 7. It can't be perfect at all distances. I found this years ago when I sighted my IPSC pistol to hit head shots at 7 yards and found out it hit above the A-zone at 25.

It looks like you'll need a taller front sight.

[HJB]

If you zero at 7 yards, it will shoot high at 15-25 yards. You'll want to zero at 25 yards and it will be close at 7. It can't be perfect at all distances. I found this years ago when I sighted my IPSC pistol to hit head shots at 7 yards and found out it hit above the A-zone at 25.

It looks like you'll need a taller front sight.


I think you are correct. Thanks for the help.