Semi newbie gun owner with hand me down weapon

[barnyfife]

Hello everyone. I have recently been handed down a quick draw 38 used in cowboy shows. It was my grand fathers and I know nothing about this gun. My father does not either he was one who got it first then he handed it to me. This 38 has a hair trigger. Now I have a two part question. 1 how can I figure out what make and model it it and if its cal or mag....and can I fix the trigger so its not so dangerous to have loaded due to the hair trigger. I was going to buy a trigger lock for it. I thank you for your time.

[Oukaapie]

I’d start by posting a few pictures and writing down every possible letter and number you can see on it. We don’t know if it’s double or single, manufacturer et al.

If you want a cheap defensive revolver I’d just go buy a used 4 inch K frame rather than dicking with this one. You have no idea what was done to the innards.

[RJ]

Welcome.

Post a picture.

Paging Malamute and Hizzie.

[Baldanders]

Welcome!

As Oukaapie said, post pics and I imagine someone here will have some info very quickly for you.

But since you are unfamiliar with guns, I would highly suggest you find a gunsmith to at least have a look over the piece before you contemplate loading it. At the very least, find someone who shoots handguns to go over how to properly handle a revolver.

ETA: if it was used in trick shooting, there is a good chance it is set up to use shot loads, not "normal" ammo, and it is probably best if you just think of it as a nonfunctional family heirloom. Or perhaps it is worth some $$$. With pics, one of the real experts here can guide you.

[Hizzie]

“Cowboy shows”

Sounds like a single action revolver. The “hair trigger” probably is within specification but would seem really light to someone unfamiliar with them. Pics would be the most helpful. The manufacturer and caliber should be stamped on the barrel and/or frame.

[barnyfife]

I will take a pic Its in perfect working order otherwise as my grand father was meticulously OCD about his guns. I will gather more info for you guys soon. For the record I am familiar with gun handling. I have a short 22 cal rifle that loads one at a time that I got at 7 and was trained to shoot a 22 revolver. I grew up in the south so guns were around me. I however have never owned or handled anything with power. I wil let you guys know more info when I get the gun back. I thank you for all your help.

[awp_101]

ETA: if it was used in trick shooting, there is a good chance it is set up to use shot loads, not "normal" ammo
Or wax bullets powered by just the primer

[HCM]

I will take a pic Its in perfect working order otherwise as my grand father was meticulously OCD about his guns. I will gather more info for you guys soon. For the record I am familiar with gun handling. I have a short 22 cal rifle that loads one at a time that I got at 7 and was trained to shoot a 22 revolver. I grew up in the south so guns were around me. I however have never owned or handled anything with power. I wil let you guys know more info when I get the gun back. I thank you for all your help.

The best option would be to take the gun to a gunsmith for an evaluation of its condition and a professional assessment as to whether it is safe to shoot.

[barnyfife]

That was my plan, but I am having a hard time finding a person here in vegas. I called gun stores and nobody had any idea who was a trusted gunsmith here. This gun is pretty old. I would say 60 plus ......would it be better to find a gunsmith that deals with old fire arms ? or does it matter ?

[Malamute]

That was my plan, but I am having a hard time finding a person here in vegas. I called gun stores and nobody had any idea who was a trusted gunsmith here. This gun is pretty old. I would say 60 plus ......would it be better to find a gunsmith that deals with old fire arms ? or does it matter ?


Knowing exactly what make and actual type will go a long ways towards giving better answers. Many gunsmiths that have been in the business quite a while may still be relatively unfamiliar with traditional type single action revolvers and how they function, and whats safe or how to correct them beyond simply replacing parts, which could be problematic if its a long out of production gun.

Any info on markings and pics you can provide will help.

[barnyfife]

Ok I did have a pic I took when I first got it here it is

[Malamute]

What caliber is it? Did I miss that part?

My off the top of my head guess, if its not a Colt, and Im thinking it probably isnt, is that its a Great Western make. They made guns in the 50s. I recall various reviews and have seen a few. Keith mentions them in his book Sixguns, the first ones seemed to have some issues which were later resolved to some degree.

[barnyfife]

ITs a 38, just not sure if its cal or what.

[Malamute]

OK, most likely a 38 special. Both Colt and Great Western made 38 special single actions. If its not clearly marked, it may be a 357 magnum, 38 specials are generally shot in 357s for less noisy and cheaper shooting.

[Hambo]

Great Western usually has the caliber on the left side of the barrel (left side, as you're pointing it at a target). They made .38, .357, and .357 Atomic.

https://greatwesternarmsco.com/calibers/357-atomic/

As far as getting it worked on, I would start with Cowboy Action shooters or forums.

Too bad the belt loop for the holster is torn. I'd look it over carefully for makers markings as well.

[barnyfife]

I am just waiting to get the gun back, but as I recall ( for the short time I had it) I saw no markings on it.........My dad kept the gun in its holster and parts are tarnished ......or is somehow faded......Either way its a beautiful gun and worth keeping, firing it would be the dream, but its not worth it if I cant get it looked at. I am going to western shooting forums and see if the cowboys can tell me more. I appreciate everything you have had to add and I am pointed in the right direction....thanks.

[Totem Polar]

What caliber is it? Did I miss that part?

My off the top of my head guess, if its not a Colt, and Im thinking it probably isnt, is that its a Great Western make. They made guns in the 50s. I recall various reviews and have seen a few. Keith mentions them in his book Sixguns, the first ones seemed to have some issues which were later resolved to some degree.

I suspect that you might be right. A look at the hammer face would probably be a strong indicator if markings are scarce.

https://gundigest.com/more/classic-guns/the-first-colt-clone

[Malamute]

I am just waiting to get the gun back, but as I recall ( for the short time I had it) I saw no markings on it.........My dad kept the gun in its holster and parts are tarnished ......or is somehow faded......Either way its a beautiful gun and worth keeping, firing it would be the dream, but its not worth it if I cant get it looked at. I am going to western shooting forums and see if the cowboys can tell me more. I appreciate everything you have had to add and I am pointed in the right direction....thanks.


The markings are quite likely in very fine size font. Unless you were specifically looking for markings it would be easy to miss them on a casual observation. Let us know when you get it back in hand and can fill in some more blanks. It will be interesting to know, and its a good story to have with the gun. Even if the gun isnt particularly rare or valuable, such as a first gen Colt, its a cool bit of family history that you can quite likely shoot and enjoy.

[Malamute]

Had a thought, what you are calling a "hair trigger" may or may not be within normal range for the type. If the only thing you have to compare it to is a double action revolver or other type with heavy trigger pull weight, this will seem very light. Single actions are fine in the 3 1/2 pound pull weight range, which is much lighter than many other type guns commonly come with. If in fact its been modified and is scary light, it can be changed, either with replacing parts or working on the existing parts depending on how much theyve been modified.

[barnyfife]

When I say hair trigger. Its a quick draw gun so its made to fire more rapid I think. He did western shows and quick draw shows with it. I am certain that it is not just a show gun though, many have suggested that to me. You really dont need to put much pressure before the hammer falls. The only gun I can match it to is my 40 cal S&w MP shield my wife and I got for home protection, which has medium pull.

[serialsolver]

https://singleactions.proboards.com

A lot of information and experts here.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[awp_101]

Great Western made a fast draw specific model (https://greatwesternarmsco.com/models/fast-draw-model/)

https://greatwesternarms.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/fastdraw1962.jpg

If they were still $89.95 I'd be buying 2 a week until I had the whole blanking set and then I'd start on a spare for each...

[Jim Watson]

Not if you were getting paid at 1962 rates.

A fast draw competitor commonly had "a pair and a spare." One to "shoot" one in reserve, and one in the shop.
Fast draw with slam cocking or fanning is abusive to the gun.

The OP needs to get the gun to somebody who knows what he is looking at.

[barnyfife]

UPDATE: OK I have been able to do some research and this gun is a great western arms from the 50's. I just wanted to let you know what I have found so far.

[Jim Watson]

Good; at one time Great Western was all there was for a SA.

If you are worried about the "hair trigger", try to line up a trigger pull gauge to see what it really is.
As said, a 2.5-3.5 lb crisp trigger on a revolver would be perfectly normal even though it would feel touchy to somebody used to a plastic staple gun. NRA minimum trigger pull for Distinguished Revolver competition is 2.5 lbs. When I was shooting PPC the minimum single action pull was 2 lbs but nearly everybody was shooting DA all the time. My Smith & Wessons run 3 - 3.5 lbs.
Paladin's one ounce trigger or anything close to it would be hazardous and would call for gunsmith correction.

[awp_101]

Not if you were getting paid at 1962 rates.
Bah, I’m talking about 1962 prices at today’s wages. Anything else is just silly talk!😁

If I remember I’ll measure the trigger pull on my GW .44 Special soon(TM).

[RJ]

What a great memento to have of your family. Hope you post more info.

(This may sound Macgyverish and rudimentary, but if you don’t have a trigger gauge (I don’t) it’s possible to estimate trigger pull weight with an empty gallon water jug. You tie a length of paracord and hang the empty jug over the trigger, while securing the gun in a padded vise or similar. Pour water in carefully until the trigger breaks. The weight of water is the an approximation of the trigger pull (a gallon of water is about 8 lbs.). Just an idea, since OP indicated he was concerned about the trigger weight).

Related to this gun, I have a question. My New Model Ruger SA revolver had (I believe it’s called) a transfer bar, meaning it was safe hammer down with 6 loaded. Is it a consideration for the OP in this case? I.e. Do these Great West Revolvers have this issue?

[awp_101]

No, Great Westerns are just like a Colt. No transfer bar so load 1, skip 1, load 4 and the hammer rests on the empty chamber.

[Jim Watson]

(This may sound Macgyverish and rudimentary, but if you don’t have a trigger gauge (I don’t) it’s possible to estimate trigger pull weight with an empty gallon water jug. You tie a length of paracord and hang the empty jug over the trigger, while securing the gun in a padded vise or similar. Pour water in carefully until the trigger breaks. The weight of water is the an approximation of the trigger pull (a gallon of water is about 8 lbs.). Just an idea, since OP indicated he was concerned about the trigger weight).

Related to this gun, I have a question. My New Model Ruger SA revolver had (I believe it’s called) a transfer bar, meaning it was safe hammer down with 6 loaded. Is it a consideration for the OP in this case? I.e. Do these Great West Revolvers have this issue?

1. Good idea. If the OP can get the amount of water required in volume measure, pints ("A pint's a pound, the world around." or 16 2/3 oz Avd.) and ounces, that will be close enough for discussion.

2. New Model Rugers with transfer bars came out in the 1970s, the Great Western was a product of the 1950s and had Colt type clockwork. Safe only with an empty chamber under the hammer. Most GWs have frame mounted firing pins but some had the firing pin on the hammer, just like a Colt... because they used Colt hammers on early guns and upon request later.


No transfer bar so load 1, skip 1, load 4 and the hammer rests on the empty chamber.

You have to do it right, though. After the last round, don't move the cylinder. Just close the loading gate, bring the hammer to full cock and ease it down on the empty chamber. If you nudge the cylinder into an extra click, you will land on a cartridge.

[barnyfife]

Interesting info. Yes i learned from my granddad to keep one under the hammer empty...he called it a safty for revolvers. I plan to keep it unloaded unless i plan on taking it to shoot it. I have my mp shield that I keep loaded at all times at home.

[barnyfife]

Ok so I have been talking to my dad and he finally found the stamp. The guesses here were right, this is a 38 special. The only thing I dont have now is the serial. I dont want to bug my dad again about it. I have been doing as much research as I can and have found interesting pic and reviews. I guess the maker of the gun gifted " the duke" with a special set. Interesting history this gun has. I am happy to become its new owner. I wanted to once again thank everyone. You were all very helpful and kind to this gun virgin and I appreciate it. I now feel a little more at ease as to what I inherited.

[Jim Watson]

That is probably all to the good. A .38 SAA is heavy, smaller holes in barrel and cylinder scaled for .45, but that keeps the recoil down and ammunition is more common and less expensive... usually.

[barnyfife]

thats good to know thank you.

[barnyfife]

I managed to get the serial # off of the gun...its 14582. I have no idea if this matters to anyone or not but I wanted to share my last piece of info.

[awp_101]

I managed to get the serial # off of the gun...its 14582. I have no idea if this matters to anyone or not but I wanted to share my last piece of info.

Per the Great Western Arms Collector website (https://greatwesternarmsco.com/history/timeline-notes/) that puts it between 1956 and 1958 and per the conversation I had with Sack Peterson about my .44 Special HERE (https://singleactions.proboards.com/thread/28082/great-western-44-special) it’s probably a 1956. The ‘56-‘58 models seem to be the best regarded from what I’ve read.

[Malamute]

I managed to get the serial # off of the gun...its 14582. I have no idea if this matters to anyone or not but I wanted to share my last piece of info.

I dont have time to look into the details at the moment, but heres this

https://greatwesternarmsco.com/production-data/great-western-arms-serial-guide/

Theres a wiki site about them and another factory type site, just google Great Western single action revolvers

[barnyfife]

That is what I have been trying to do is research this now that I have all the info.

[Hambo]

Per the Great Western Arms Collector website (https://greatwesternarmsco.com/history/timeline-notes/) that puts it between 1956 and 1958 and per the conversation I had with Sack Peterson about my .44 Special HERE (https://singleactions.proboards.com/thread/28082/great-western-44-special) it’s probably a 1956. The ‘56-‘58 models seem to be the best regarded from what I’ve read.

That's just what I needed. Another forum with a wildcat page...

[barnyfife]

OK so I understand the " hair trigger" a little better. I found a video talking about single action revolvers and it explained that they have a lighter trigger. I am now thinking its no different then any other. Always thought it was due to it being a quick draw pistol.....am I correct ?

[Half Moon]

OK so I understand the " hair trigger" a little better. I found a video talking about single action revolvers and it explained that they have a lighter trigger. I am now thinking its no different then any other. Always thought it was due to it being a quick draw pistol.....am I correct ?

Single actions (semi or revolver) tend to have much lighter triggers than other action types. Without experience the numbers probably won't mean much but typically in the 2 to 4.5 pound range. With a single action the trigger pull only needs to release the sear to let the hammer drop as opposed to having to cock the hammer, striker, or whatever. With less work to perform the pull is lighter, shorter, and crisper.