Sweat/Rust Solutions in a 92?

[spence]

I couldn’t find anything else specific to my issue. I EDC an LTT Centurion AIWB. I did an M9 until not too long ago, and just started with them a year ago but this summer has been the first time it’s been full time with the 92. While I have lost a ton of weight, I still sweat like a woman of ill refute in church. As such I had to take the gun apart to clean a bunch of rust out of it. Namely in the hammer pin and hammer spring pin.

What the heck can I do to mitigate the issue?

[Cory]

I couldn’t find anything else specific to my issue. I EDC an LTT Centurion AIWB. I did an M9 until not too long ago, and just started with them a year ago but this summer has been the first time it’s been full time with the 92. While I have lost a ton of weight, I still sweat like a woman of ill refute in church. As such I had to take the gun apart to clean a bunch of rust out of it. Namely in the hammer pin and hammer spring pin.

What the heck can I do to mitigate the issue?

Some of the abuse my 92s take:
p/Bzf_dpeFHJf

I'm in central Florida and have similar issues, although mine are normally on the barrel. My 92 with a stainless barrel doesn't have to much trouble as long as it gets the occasional wipe down. My normal EDC is a Langdon M9 which has the standard carbon steel 92 barrel. It rusts like a mother. Especially if I head anywhere along the waters edge. I'm planning to send that off to Langdon to get it NP3'd. Here is an IG post I made showing the issues on my Langdon M9.

p/B_-aBhspXqJ

One major suggestion I would make, is to look for the hogue stainless steel grip screws. I suggest hogue because they're flat head. https://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Beretta-Screws-Stainless-Finish/dp/B0010XANSK/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Hogue+stainless+grip+screw+Beretta&qid=1595792422&sr=8-2 That magical link should take you to the correct item, and hopefully help PF make a little off the referral. Those screws hold up far better than the standard grip screws that come on Berettas. They just dont rust as fast.

Before and after on the grip screw change.
p/B0CQE_0A0q4

All that being said, I don't have much issue with rust near my firing pin area. I would ask what kind of holster you're using. My Keeper has a good sized sweat guard that protects that area from my folger's fueled acid sweat.

EDIT: Also make sure you watch the area under your slide stop. When the pistol is disassembled, just lift up that stop and take a look. Mine can sometimes build just enough rust to stick. In general I try to do a wipe down once a month, or every couple weeks.

[spence]

I’ll look into your post further and post pictures up when I get home to my laptop. I was using a JMCK until about six week ago and went to a Dark Star gear, both with the full guard.

Edit. And oh the irony, now that I see my own comment on your IG post, I remember seeing it before.

[SW CQB 45]

it might be costly, but NP3 treatment might minimize oil wipe downs to monthly.

[TOTS]

I have used thin coats of natural shoe polish, Johnsons floor wax, and Eezox on my Blued 1911s to prevent coastal NC rust. I honestly like the clear shoe polish route the best.

[Hambo]

While I have lost a ton of weight, I still sweat like a woman of ill refute in church.

What the heck can I do to mitigate the issue?

It's counter-intuitive, but in hot weather (95% of the year) I wear a t-shirt under a button or golf shirt. Unless I'm soaked, my pistol stays pretty dry.

[spinmove_]

I don’t currently carry a 92, but I’ve found sweat guards and tank-top/wife-beater undershirts work great at mitigating the sweat from the get go.

[Cory]

It's counter-intuitive, but in hot weather (95% of the year) I wear a t-shirt under a button or golf shirt. Unless I'm soaked, my pistol stays pretty dry.


I don’t currently carry a 92, but I’ve found sweat guards and tank-top/wife-beater undershirts work great at mitigating the sweat from the get go.

I wear a T shirt between myself and the gun quite a bit as well.

[RJ]

Paging Les Pepperoni

[spence]

It's counter-intuitive, but in hot weather (95% of the year) I wear a t-shirt under a button or golf shirt. Unless I'm soaked, my pistol stays pretty dry.

I went to a couple day training course last month in western Colorado. It was 90 and dry those two days. I wore a tshirt under my usual polo shirt and it was great. I needed a shower at the end of the day, but it wasn't horrible.

Here in Kansas, not so much. I sweat enough while working that my jeans often look like I've pissed myself by mid day, and depending on how many customers I see during the day, I may change shirts four or five times. Thus I hesitate to think about wearing undershirts because then I'm sweating just that much more and changing two, instead of one, after every stop. While I am physically working at each stop, I do not keep it on me, bent over with any sized gun in your pants just isn't all that comfortable. However, once I finish, I usually carry it since I often stop for gas, bathroom, drinks, etc.

Here it is last week.
57994

[farscott]

I have lived in the humid southeastern USA for the past twenty-five years. I always wear a cotton T-shirt between between the gun and me. I find that not only does the gun stay drier, I stay cooler. Yesterday it was about 88 degrees and 60% humidity when I started some auto maintenance and yard work. When I finished, it was 92 and 56% per my wife's weather station. I wore my G17.3 in a Sparks VM-2 between a polo and T-shirt. Gun was mostly dry, but I had sweat through my underwear and pants. The T-shirt absorbed much of that moisture.

As for protecting the pistol, a hard paste wax like Johnson's or Renaissance Wax will do the trick as long as the surface is polished. Matte surfaces tend to get uneven wax distribution whereas even coverage is simple with a polished surface. This is the low-cost way and works for up to a few months, depending upon how hard the pistol is used. Another method is to use something like G96 or a Sentry Tuf Cloth to provide some protection from sweat. The higher cost method is a corrosion-resistant finish like NP3.

[Hambo]

It was 90 and dry those two days.

We don't know what that means in FLA. It's a cool morning here: 90F, 67% humidity, feels like temp of 104F. If I had to work outdoors and carry a gun, I'd use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HG1GG6S?tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

For you, it seems like Inox or NP3 and a lot of attention are the best solution.

[MattyD380]

I'm thinking about carrying my Sig P245 on a hike out in the hills of Eastern KY this weekend. Last time I took my P245 on a summer hike, it rusted a little. Mainly on the hammer and one small spot on the slide. I'm thinking if I oil it before I go, then apply a little oil after sweating on it... it'll be okay. It was 100 degrees yesterday, here in the Cincinnati area.

I know carbon slide Sigs are not known for their rust resistance. But it carries well, I shoot it well and .45 is probably better for black bears than 9mm.

[MDFA]

It's counter-intuitive, but in hot weather (95% of the year) I wear a t-shirt under a button or golf shirt. Unless I'm soaked, my pistol stays pretty dry.

This

Works pretty well in Florida with my 1911's. They also get a wipe down when I take them off.

[Clay]

In my humble experience, you have three choices -

1. Regular preventative maintenance with a product like Corrosion-X or Break-Free CLP.
2. Permanent coatings like NP3 or Black-T.
3. Switch to a pistol like a Glock or HK USP that have a more robust finish and a polymer frame.

[NuJudge]

I have one early 92 I carry a lot, a Police surplus piece, and the barrel it came with (blued) rusted if I looked at it. When I want my pants to not fall down, I believe in suspenders and belt. The absolute best rust preventative I know of is LPS3, which is a wax, and not a lubricant. My impression of Florida when I visit a childhood friend is that the humidity is lower under water. I replaced the barrel with a stainless one, NP3'd the rest of it, oiled what I had to, LPS3'd the rest of it, and no further problems in Florida.

[GyroF-16]

Thanks for the recommendation. Two sets of Hogue screws ordered.


Some of the abuse my 92s take:

One major suggestion I would make, is to look for the hogue stainless steel grip screws. I suggest hogue because they're flat head. https://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Beretta-Screws-Stainless-Finish/dp/B0010XANSK/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Hogue+stainless+grip+screw+Beretta&qid=1595792422&sr=8-2 That magical link should take you to the correct item, and hopefully help PF make a little off the referral. Those screws hold up far better than the standard grip screws that come on Berettas. They just dont rust as fast.

[Jason M]

I have had success with the base layer t-shirt and weekly application of Marine Tuff-Glide to the parts of the pistol that can rust.

[03RN]

My m66 is now my sweat on gun but before that I carried a glock in and around salt water. It still rusted but just a little.

Probably the best reason for a glock

[AdioSS]

My SPEC0190A NP3 96G Centurion was originally built for Palm Beach PD in 1999 & it had no rust anywhere when I got it. I keep a PO9618DNPO NP3 96D in a cheap nylon holster in my bathroom. It was originally NP3 coated in 1992 for Ohio Highway Patrol. It also shows no rust anywhere.

[Sal Picante]

Like Cory I live in FL.

I EDC the 92 in a Keepers AIWB. I work from home, so I EDC it it, realistically, when I'm running errands and generally out and about.

NP3 is probably the best bet for those parts. MidwestGunWorks might still has some hammer pivots in NP3...

I think it really depends on the persons sweat type... I don't notice much rust on my guns... I do have a bit of grease covering the head of the hammer pivot?

EDIT: So I pulled out the pistol and checked it over - I use a lot of grease on my slide rails, under the locking block, the pivot pins, etc... I even greased the mainspring pin.
I usually add a touch of oil to the locking block and the hammer-pin interface when I carry. I think this coating keeps it form rusting?

I'm using Gunfighter Gun grease (https://www.instagram.com/gunfightergunoil/)... Got it from Mickey at Carrytrainer. In the past I used to use CudeLube which is a very heavyweight oil that stays put, but the white grease stays put better for an EDC gun...

[paherne]

Clean the parts and then spray them with Boeshield T-9 and let them dry. It stopped our shotguns from rusting in trunks.

[RAM Engineer]

Did anyone (LangdonTactical?) ever find a replacement vendor for NP3?

[19852+]

Clean the parts and then spray them with Boeshield T-9 and let them dry. It stopped our shotguns from rusting in trunks.

Yes, Boeshield is good stuff as is Frog Lube for exterior rust prevention. I stopped using the Frog for actual lubrication as it became gummy but it is proven to slow down corrosion. The maker of WD40 also makes a rust preventative that is also very good. I live in a tropical environment and mine get wet often. A year ago I shot a two gun match in non-stop rain, so bad that if you dropped a mag it was lost. Zero rust on my AR and Colt government even though soaked through.

[flyrodr]

Boeshield works great . . . when used as designed.

From the product's web site (https://boeshield.com/why-boeshield-2/):

"T-9’s unique formulation of solvent carrier and paraffin wax coating was engineered to penetrate crevices deeply, displace moisture, dissolve minor corrosion, and leave a clean, waxy coating with lasting durability—without using Teflon, silicone, fluorocarbons, MEK, or acetone."

If a proposed application involves spraying a bunch of moving and/or tightly fitting parts, or smallish springs, the residual "waxy coating" can literally "cement" parts together or greatly slow/inhibit movement.

So a friend told me . . .

[Sauer Koch]

Did anyone (LangdonTactical?) ever find a replacement vendor for NP3?

He deals directly with Coating Technologies.

Cajun Gun Works is a dealer, but ONLY for CZ guns.
I wouldn't use Wright Armory again...
I'd go with Vang Comp, or Cylinder & Slide. There is also Amerigun (Michigan), but don't know anything about them.

[Spartan1980]

This is an area (one of the few) where Froglube (https://www.amazon.com/Froglube-Paste-Cleaner-Lubricant-Protectant/dp/B0053TX1GS/) actually works, especially the paste form. Not long after it came out I did a corrosion test on it using a steel computer tower case. I did it just like we did in our ASTM B117 salt fog testing at the place I worked except that I placed it outside, leaned up against my storage building from about the first of February through August. It got snow, rain, hail, heavy dew, freeze/thaw cycled and birds shitting on it for about a half year.

It won out over Slip2K, Eezox, CLP, Ballistol, Mobil 1, Remoil and several others I've forgotten. It was very close with Eezox but had a bit less rust on the panels overall. I tested both the liquid and the paste product in two different ways. I just applied a very light film per package instructions and I also did the goofy heat/apply/cool/wipe with microfibre rag for 4 different panels in total. Believe it or not the goofy heat/wipe method worked better for both FL products, so I'm believing that it's actually a plant based wax of some sort. I'm not a real fan of FL especially for guns that don't get attention for long periods. I don't buy that it seeps into the pores of the metal BS at all and I'm not real impressed with it's lube ability, though it does have some. However it really is excellent for corrosion and is probably a pretty decent product overall if one is maintaining their weapon on a regular and most importantly FREQUENT basis. Kinda like I would imagine Navy Seals probably do when deployed? If you are addressing things like that it's fine. It also does well on the plastic sliding bits on Dillon presses and reloading dies (for storage). I still use the paste for this type of stuff. I threw the liquid in the trash as it doesn't dry, does attract dust, and is just a diluted version of the paste.

If you're curious as to what was the worst? Hands down it was CLP. That shit had rust going on it's panel as fast as the bare untreated control panel. Started the next day actually. That was kinda shocking as I figured it would be Ballistol since it is water miscible.

[jeep45238]

I went to a couple day training course last month in western Colorado. It was 90 and dry those two days. I wore a tshirt under my usual polo shirt and it was great. I needed a shower at the end of the day, but it wasn't horrible.

Here in Kansas, not so much. I sweat enough while working that my jeans often look like I've pissed myself by mid day, and depending on how many customers I see during the day, I may change shirts four or five times.



I work outdoors running chainsaws, with chaps, in high humidity and heat indexes going up to 105*F before we call it due to health concerns. Wringing out shirts two years ago, several times a day like a soaked beach towel was a normal occurrence. We don't do that any more with some simple changes.


Stop wearing jeans. Just, stop. It takes me a solid 2 weeks for the stubborn ones when they first start, but seriously jeans are one of the worst workwear pants to wear. Carhartt and Duluth standard pants wick much better and are far less miserable, and their hot weather pant versions are incredible. The cargo pant option doesn't fit like cargo pants, they are professional looking and don't scream gun either.

Move away from cotton shirts, and grab a compression thin undershirt and a synthetic wicking shirt to go with it - the best one I have is actually a polo.




Your jeans are just holding that moisture and high humidity in there around the gun. Stop it.

[spence]

I work outdoors running chainsaws, with chaps, in high humidity and heat indexes going up to 105*F before we call it due to health concerns. Wringing out shirts two years ago, several times a day like a soaked beach towel was a normal occurrence. We don't do that any more with some simple changes.


Stop wearing jeans. Just, stop. It takes me a solid 2 weeks for the stubborn ones when they first start, but seriously jeans are one of the worst workwear pants to wear. Carhartt and Duluth standard pants wick much better and are far less miserable, and their hot weather pant versions are incredible. The cargo pant option doesn't fit like cargo pants, they are professional looking and don't scream gun either.

Move away from cotton shirts, and grab a compression thin undershirt and a synthetic wicking shirt to go with it - the best one I have is actually a polo.




Your jeans are just holding that moisture and high humidity in there around the gun. Stop it.

I have to admit that immediately I am repulsed by the idea of wearing anything but Wranglers. And perhaps you could answer this but there's nothing worse than having a horse rip a leg away with nails in its foot that haven't yet been bent over. I have yet to be seriously stuck in this manner, but it's a real concern. Had plenty of holes ripped in my pants that way over the years.

Those synthetic wicking shirts are actually great, but since I have company shirts printed, I've had to deal with what my printer lady has. I don't know that I asked her about anything but cotton when I had these made two years ago. I'm sure someone around could screen print on them, just have to find a shop that can/does.

[Caballoflaco]

I have to admit that immediately I am repulsed by the idea of wearing anything but Wranglers. And perhaps you could answer this but there's nothing worse than having a horse rip a leg away with nails in its foot that haven't yet been bent over. I have yet to be seriously stuck in this manner, but it's a real concern. Had plenty of holes ripped in my pants that way over the years.

Those synthetic wicking shirts are actually great, but since I have company shirts printed, I've had to deal with what my printer lady has. I don't know that I asked her about anything but cotton when I had these made two years ago. I'm sure someone around could screen print on them, just have to find a shop that can/does.

I work in Landscaping and the printers we have used all offered modern wicking style shirts.

[jeep45238]

I have to admit that immediately I am repulsed by the idea of wearing anything but Wranglers. And perhaps you could answer this but there's nothing worse than having a horse rip a leg away with nails in its foot that haven't yet been bent over. I have yet to be seriously stuck in this manner, but it's a real concern. Had plenty of holes ripped in my pants that way over the years.

Those synthetic wicking shirts are actually great, but since I have company shirts printed, I've had to deal with what my printer lady has. I don't know that I asked her about anything but cotton when I had these made two years ago. I'm sure someone around could screen print on them, just have to find a shop that can/does.

My work pants, wicking and non-wicking, have withstood more abuse from abrasion, thorns, and sharp objects than you can imagine. Pants outside of full on motorcycle gear with hard armor won't do anything for blunt trauma impact.


I work in Landscaping and the printers we have used all offered modern wicking style shirts.

I placed an order for my crew on Monday, all wicking shirts, and getting long-sleeve SPF50 style ones as well for the few folks that listened to me about them.



If you don't want to change your clothing, that's fine, but it's likely a major contributing factor after reading how much you sweat in a day and don't change out your pants.

[CraigS]

Quite a lot of the small parts are available in stainless. Look at; Midwest Gun Works, Brownells, and Beretta. Of course Beretta also has slides and barrels in stainless but they are kind of expensive.

[19852+]

This is an area (one of the few) where Froglube (https://www.amazon.com/Froglube-Paste-Cleaner-Lubricant-Protectant/dp/B0053TX1GS/) actually works, especially the paste form. Not long after it came out I did a corrosion test on it using a steel computer tower case. I did it just like we did in our ASTM B117 salt fog testing at the place I worked except that I placed it outside, leaned up against my storage building from about the first of February through August. It got snow, rain, hail, heavy dew, freeze/thaw cycled and birds shitting on it for about a half year.

It won out over Slip2K, Eezox, CLP, Ballistol, Mobil 1, Remoil and several others I've forgotten. It was very close with Eezox but had a bit less rust on the panels overall. I tested both the liquid and the paste product in two different ways. I just applied a very light film per package instructions and I also did the goofy heat/apply/cool/wipe with microfibre rag for 4 different panels in total. Believe it or not the goofy heat/wipe method worked better for both FL products, so I'm believing that it's actually a plant based wax of some sort. I'm not a real fan of FL especially for guns that don't get attention for long periods. I don't buy that it seeps into the pores of the metal BS at all and I'm not real impressed with it's lube ability, though it does have some. However it really is excellent for corrosion and is probably a pretty decent product overall if one is maintaining their weapon on a regular and most importantly FREQUENT basis. Kinda like I would imagine Navy Seals probably do when deployed? If you are addressing things like that it's fine. It also does well on the plastic sliding bits on Dillon presses and reloading dies (for storage). I still use the paste for this type of stuff. I threw the liquid in the trash as it doesn't dry, does attract dust, and is just a diluted version of the paste.

If you're curious as to what was the worst? Hands down it was CLP. That shit had rust going on it's panel as fast as the bare untreated control panel. Started the next day actually. That was kinda shocking as I figured it would be Ballistol since it is water miscible.

Yep ! I use my Frog for lubing my Dillon too. Works real good in fact. I like non-toxic lubes now that I've been involved with firearms, tools and machines all of my adult, starting in my youth, life.

Bare blue steel rusts in minutes here, literally. Frog lube does get into a phosphate coating and really does prevent rust. Just re-apply according to how often ones uses the item.

[Spartan1980]

Yep ! I use my Frog for lubing my Dillon too. Works real good in fact. I like non-toxic lubes now that I've been involved with firearms, tools and machines all of my adult, starting in my youth, life.

Bare blue steel rusts in minutes here, literally. Frog lube does get into a phosphate coating and really does prevent rust. Just re-apply according to how often ones uses the item.

Yep. Phosphate and anodic coatings look kinda like a sponge under high magnification and it does penetrate that. Metal itself, not so much. And when wiped off there’s not a lot left for actual lubrication but for corrosion it works very well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Zman001]

Holding out hope that langdon gets some g levers in NP3 soon. Thats the part thats starting to rust. The barrel got replaced with a SS 4.7 from langdon, i just need that one part.

[paherne]

Boeshield works great . . . when used as designed.

From the product's web site (https://boeshield.com/why-boeshield-2/):

"T-9’s unique formulation of solvent carrier and paraffin wax coating was engineered to penetrate crevices deeply, displace moisture, dissolve minor corrosion, and leave a clean, waxy coating with lasting durability—without using Teflon, silicone, fluorocarbons, MEK, or acetone."

If a proposed application involves spraying a bunch of moving and/or tightly fitting parts, or smallish springs, the residual "waxy coating" can literally "cement" parts together or greatly slow/inhibit movement.

So a friend told me . . .

Funny, when using it on over fifty rifles and shotguns for the last ten years, that's never happened. Maybe it would be different on a handgun.

[flyrodr]

Funny, when using it on over fifty rifles and shotguns for the last ten years, that's never happened. Maybe it would be different on a handgun.

I do think it's good stuff. Just potentially troublesome if applied too generously to parts that are tightly fit to others, or to small springs that are, by design, intended for moving light loads.

I've applied it to fly reel externals and internals for years, at least those to be used in salt water. But once, and only once, I applied it to the center shaft that the reel's spool spins on. When I returned from a bonefishing trip, I started to disassemble the reel (the spool still spun freely on the shaft), and it just wouldn't budge. The spool contained bearings, and the inner race of the bearings had been firmly cemented to the shaft. Finally got it off by a combination of solvent and hot water - - - and some desperate tugs.

That said, a common spot for corrosion on a fly reel (the better ones are hard anodized aluminum) is the tiny gap where the reel foot is attached to the reel body. Boeshield is great for "sealing" that area.

Best solution is warm water and soap after each day's fishing - - - a somewhat bothersome solution for a firearm.

[spence]

My work pants, wicking and non-wicking, have withstood more abuse from abrasion, thorns, and sharp objects than you can imagine. Pants outside of full on motorcycle gear with hard armor won't do anything for blunt trauma impact.


If you don't want to change your clothing, that's fine, but it's likely a major contributing factor after reading how much you sweat in a day and don't change out your pants.

I really don't mind the idea of having to change, but I do simultaneously. It would be a lot easier to swallow if 1) I hadn't just bought new pants a couple months ago, and I buy 5-6 pairs at a time, typically lasts me a year and a half or more, and 2) looks like making the switch will cost roughly double what I pay for 13MWZ Wranglers. I'm learning when to bite the bullet and just drop the bucks on the good stuff, but it can still be cringe worthy doing so. I am indeed coming to the place reading here where the idea of not feeling like I've crawled out of pond every day might just be worth the expense, even taking the skankiness in my pistol out of the equation.


Quite a lot of the small parts are available in stainless. Look at; Midwest Gun Works, Brownells, and Beretta. Of course Beretta also has slides and barrels in stainless but they are kind of expensive.

Might just start here for helping the gun itself out.

Thanks for all the input folks. It's been super helpful.

[spence]

One major suggestion I would make, is to look for the hogue stainless steel grip screws. I suggest hogue because they're flat head. https://www.amazon.com/Hogue-Beretta-Screws-Stainless-Finish/dp/B0010XANSK/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Hogue+stainless+grip+screw+Beretta&qid=1595792422&sr=8-2 That magical link should take you to the correct item, and hopefully help PF make a little off the referral. Those screws hold up far better than the standard grip screws that come on Berettas. They just dont rust as fast.



Doesn't the LTT come with stainless grip screws from the factory? This particular gun doesn't seem to be having any issues in that department, but I'm going to order a few part to help alleviate the issue.

[RevolverRob]

Switch to an OWB holster and put a layer between you and the gun. Your rust issues will go away almost instantly.

I used to carry a gun doing construction, in Texas, in the summer. A lot of HVAC work in attics, where the temperature could exceed 120-degrees. And still, I never had more than a minor spot of rust on my gun(s). I carried OWB at 3 o'clock, I didn't take my gun off while working.

[Cory]

Doesn't the LTT come with stainless grip screws from the factory? This particular gun doesn't seem to be having any issues in that department, but I'm going to order a few part to help alleviate the issue.

My comments on grip screws should have been about 92s in general, not your edc in particular. I apologize.

The LTT does come with stainless screws. The Langdon M9 that is my normal EDC is a different model that didn't come with stainless, and it was a definite need in my case. If you already have the stainless hex head screws the hogue flathead stainless wouldn't be needed unless you just really like flathead screws.

[spence]

My comments on grip screws should have been about 92s in general, not your edc in particular. I apologize.

The LTT does come with stainless screws. The Langdon M9 that is my normal EDC is a different model that didn't come with stainless, and it was a definite need in my case. If you already have the stainless hex head screws the hogue flathead stainless wouldn't be needed unless you just really like flathead screws.

No, it's all good. I was sitting there looking at parts and thought of that without the gun in front of me. Plus, when I still carried a 92 compact, the grip screws did rust on it, and it was winter/spring, so I wasn't pouring sweat out by the gallon.