Grayguns HK P30 Straight Trigger

[Sauer Koch]

I just got an email from GG about this new trigger; it looks interesting, but I've never had a gun with a flat trigger, so I'm not sure if I'd like it. I like my OEM trigger, and don't see any problem with it, so I guess that means, for me, this is a problem looking for a solution?

Thoughts...

https://grayguns.com/product/hk-p30-straight-trigger/

[ratter75]

On the one hand I’m glad they consider the P30 worthy of developing products for. On the other hand, I’m not a fan of straight triggers (1911s excluded) and I’m doubly not a fan of dicking with non-OEM parts in a gun that I mainly chose for its reliability and durability.

[GotWhatINeed]

This is much more interesting to me than the Grayguns Short Reset System for the P30sk. I can deal with the long reset, but the break point is so far back that I could never really get used to it with my long fingers, even with the largest back strap. A flat trigger with a 90 degree wall, less over travel and shortened reset sounds amazing. But I'm not really a fan of modifying internals or triggers on defensive pistols, especially carry pistols.

[shane45]

I DO like flat triggers but here it just looks....football bat-ish to me.

[javemtr]

Do flat triggers make any sense in the long LEM trigger pulls? It seems to me (no flat trigger experience) that the angle would be awkward during the initial take-up?

[Polecat]

Pass

[dontshakepandas]

I like flat triggers in general, but this doesn’t look appealing to me. It definitely seems like the initial take up would be very awkward. I also feel like dicking with the trigger would undermine the reason I chose the P30 platform to begin with.

[Sauer Koch]

Yeah, In the pic they show, the angle of the trigger seems very drastic (forward), which I agree, seems like it would be awkward.

[Sig_Fiend]

I have one on the way. Once I get it installed, I'll post pics and thoughts. I do have my concerns about what looks like the extreme angle in the pictures, though it sounds like with LEM it's less of an issue, based on comments I saw I think on Instagram. For reference, this will be going in a P30 LEM with 4.1CH + GGI short reset kit.

I'm never really concerned about the non-OEM angle when it comes to GGI parts. In this case, being heat treated tool steel, I'm sure it will be just fine. We know the OEM trigger works just fine and is plenty durable. However, it is fun to experiment!

[shane45]

Does the short reset also reduce the take up?

[Sauer Koch]

Does the short reset also reduce the take up?

From the GG site:


$89.00

The HK® P30 Straight Trigger is designed for hard use and competition to deliver performance and quality that will outlast your pistol.

Reduces gross over-travel allowing for shorter reset
Straight face for improved finger placement
Vertical, 90-degree wall for an optimal trigger break

[opmike]

I pretty much run ALL pistol triggers at my first distal joint, especially heavy DA triggers. 92 and CZ triggers are almost the perfect shape for me using when this technique. Not sure I'm a fan of what I'm seeing here. Blocky/flat faced AND it looks like the length of pull is increased. Flat faces make sense on striker, SA, and rifle triggers. Not sure if it makes much sense here.

[Sig_Fiend]

When I get mine, I'll measure trigger reach difference between it and the stock trigger using digital mics.

[J0hnny]

I like flat triggers in general, but this doesn’t look appealing to me. It definitely seems like the initial take up would be very awkward. I also feel like dicking with the trigger would undermine the reason I chose the P30 platform to begin with.

This pretty much sums it up, not to mention that it's fugly. I'd be kind of interested in a steel curved trigger though, the plastic OEM trigger flexes before it starts articulating.

[Sig_Fiend]

Well, here's the end result. Gun is a P30 LEM with 4.1ch and GGI short reset kit. Originally, it measured 2.87 inches from the top seam of the removable backstrap straight forward to the trigger face. I measured straight forward for consistency, and didn't attempt to measure to the "center" of the trigger.

With the GGI straight trigger, the full DA reach measures 2.91 inches. The LEM pull measures 2.857 inches. Overall, no substantial difference from the stock trigger. I'd estimate my margin of error in measurement at 0.05-0.07 inches, so the difference here is within my margin of error. It's a little tricky to measure, for me at least, considering the shape of the trigger, so I apologize in advance if this is not precise enough for everyone.

I don't know that I would run this trigger in a DA/SA variant, as the trigger shape and minimally increased length of pull does feel less than ideal for a heavier DA pull in my opinion. In LEM, especially light LEM, I think the trigger feels just fine. The break does happen right at around 90 degrees. I agree, based on appearance you would think initial take up would be awkward, but with light LEM it's not a big deal.

The shape of the trigger shoe appears similar to the OEM one, as if the length of the shoe had been flatened and the convex shape of the shoe flattened as well. It's not uncomfortable at all and I find I kind of like it. I particularly like the broad, smooth face of the trigger, but then I'm generally not a fan of serrated triggers. GGI does make a flat face curved trigger for the P320. I feel like that would probably be a better shape for me, and I'd buy one if they make it. At the end of the day, this is a heat-treated, tool steel, sub $100 option from a reputable manufacturer. Personally, I'm just glad it's another new part people are making for the platform.

Trigger pulled, at rest in full DA:
57279

Slide racked, at rest in LEM:
57276

At the wall:
57277

Shot broken, at full overtravel:
57278

[JonInWA]

Thanks for the detailed report-interesting. I guess my question is, "Do you think the benefits significantly outweigh that you've presumably toasted your HK warranty?"

It sounds like the break occurs when the blade reached the vertical position, so is the additional rearward movement depicted in your images represent over-travel?

Best, Jon

[Sig_Fiend]

Jon, on your second question, that's correct. That last picture shows the trigger at full over travel. It's probably just 1-2mm from the breaking point. It's very short, and seems shorter than stock, though I have not taken that measurement.

To your first question, I wouldn't want to make any claim as to any significant benefits between this trigger vs. OEM. I haven't even shot it with this trigger yet. For myself, personally, I look at it as more of an aesthetic/ergonomic exercise. Maybe I'll like it, maybe I won't. Worst case, I can always go back to stock. I just generally find the process fun. I'm the type of guy whose cars can never remain entirely stock. ;)

As far as warranties, I'm well past that at this point. Some might think I'm dumb but, I do all the work myself and I honestly don't care much about or even think about warranties. I trust the brand, and I have a good degree of confidence in GGI. Worst case, I don't mind eating the cost of my own mistakes.

As an aside, I just took some measurements with my digital Lyman gauge. The current setup is averaging right at 4lbs 9oz, which is exactly what it measured previously with the 4.1ch and GGI short reset kit. So no significant change in pull weight either, which was neither claimed by GGI nor expected by me, but figured I would mention it for anyone wondering. The three claims made by GGI for this trigger are:


Reduces gross over-travel allowing for shorter reset
Straight face for improved finger placement
Vertical, 90-degree wall for an optimal trigger break



By my measurements, the trigger meets those claims. They also say that, due to the shape of the trigger, you can get lower on the trigger. So, better leverage = possibly a lighter feel even though the overall pull weight won't change. I find that to be the case, and the trigger does feel ever so slightly "smoother". Maybe it's to do with the increased rigidity versus the stock polymerized trigger, I don't know.

[JonInWA]

Great input-many thanks. I doubt that I'll personally go that route-I'm pleased with the OEM trigger-but I appreciate what you did and how you shared your information and input. I'll be interested to hear your thoughts after you've got some rounds through it.

Best, Jon

[javemtr]

Some guy posted a video about the trigger in his DA/SA P30L:

https://youtu.be/HiiVFnDh49Q

[Sauer Koch]

Sig_Fiend I have a short, slide release lever from HK; I see you have the ‘extremely short’ model :)

[Sig_Fiend]

Sig_Fiend I have a short, slide release lever from HK; I see you have the ‘extremely short’ model :)

Yeah, I decided to experiment with the short and slim version (https://hkparts.net/product/hk-p30sk-slim-short-slide-release-lever-set-p18028.htm). Even though it's just listed for the P30SK, it absolutely fits the full size P30. I tend to have a really aggressive thumbs forward grip. Although I haven't had as big of an issue with premature lockback or failure to lock open on the P30 as I do with Glocks, I've had it happen a bit. So far, this release has worked just fine. It takes just a bit more focus and deliberate motion to consistently hit it, but it hasn't been a big deal so far.

[Sauer Koch]

Yeah, I decided to experiment with the short and slim version (https://hkparts.net/product/hk-p30sk-slim-short-slide-release-lever-set-p18028.htm). Even though it's just listed for the P30SK, it absolutely fits the full size P30. I tend to have a really aggressive thumbs forward grip. Although I haven't had as big of an issue with premature lockback or failure to lock open on the P30 as I do with Glocks, I've had it happen a bit. So far, this release has worked just fine. It takes just a bit more focus and deliberate motion to consistently hit it, but it hasn't been a big deal so far.

I still hit mine occasionally, but so far I’m happy with it. I don’t remember ever seeing the one you have, I was assuming you just cut it yourself.

[javemtr]

The official HK parts numbers for the very short and slim levers pictured above are 227705 (left side) and 227706 (right side), just in case you want to order from HK direct. I have them on my P30 and they fixed the problem of my thumbs riding the slide release. However, I find them too minimal to reliably engage the slide release (so far).

[Sauer Koch]

The official HK parts numbers for the very short and slim levers pictured above are 227705 (left side) and 227706 (right side), just in case you want to order from HK direct. I have them on my P30 and they fixed the problem of my thumbs riding the slide release. However, I find them too minimal to reliably engage the slide release (so far).

Thanks. So far, I feel that the short lever is the best compromise, for me, but it's nice to know there is another option if i need it.

[Thy.Will.Be.Done]

Thanks for the detailed report-interesting. I guess my question is, "Do you think the benefits significantly outweigh that you've presumably toasted your HK warranty?"

It sounds like the break occurs when the blade reached the vertical position, so is the additional rearward movement depicted in your images represent over-travel?

Best, Jon

Wanted to mention this, despite this post being a little dated that I'm replying to. I had a problem with how the VP9 trigger works with my fingers (short), or really should say doesn't work FOR ME and could not reliably get the trigger to function because my finger would ride above the dingus safety and leave no action. I mentioned about getting an aftermarket trigger and whether it would void the warranty on the pistol and the rep said that it shouldn't if it's just the trigger part itself.

This part swap seems fairly benign in that it literally just rotates on a hinge, I don't see it causing problems down the line at all. To my understanding, it would only not be warranted if the part itself were to have caused a failure in some way. They'd still fix whatever parts were required but it would be at a cost. The warranty is only there to protect you in the case of manufacturer's parts being deemed problematic, obviously any part you swap in cannot be covered if they didn't produce it.

I may have to revisit the idea of one of these triggers if what the OP is saying about it not increasing reach is true. Seems it would have to bump it just a smidge forward but I wonder how noticeable it is for those with small hands.

[MasterBlaster]

Wow, never knew about that smaller slide lock lever. But $80...sheesh!

[UpDok]

I rarely necro-post but It took me a while to decide to order a Grayguns straight trigger for my HK P30 with 4.1CH LEM springs and parts setup.

My finding with a cloth waist tape measure on the P30 is the sear let-off point for the trigger (by wrapping the tape around the unloaded pistol and pulling tape until let-off) is rather far back compared to other similar pistols. With the OEM trigger the cloth tape was showing a let-off point at only 5 7/8" compared to a measured sear let-off point of roughly 6 1/8" for both my HK VP9 and CZ P01. I needed to use the large backstrap and large side plates to get the HK P30 let-off out to about 6 1/8" so it felt comfortable in my 8" long right hand size (from tip of FU salute finger to the crease under palm). I find the large set of grip parts just a little too big for my taste in appendix carry.

I bought & installed the Grayguns P30 straight trigger and it extended the trigger reach by about 1/4" with my crude way of measuring. This is with my preferred medium backstrap, medium left grip plate and large right grip plate, so it now measures about 6 1/8' and I'm happy with the results. After installation I weighed the straight trigger at the lower crease (rather than the middle of the hook of the OEM trigger) and it measured about 2 ounces lighter than OEM (5 lbs. 3 ounces for the straight trigger vs. 5 lbs. 5 ounces for the OEM with my current set of springs).

Strangely I did not have any trouble reinstalling the HK trigger spring. I used a broken wooden dowel as a makeshift tool kind of like what a monkey in the woods would do and it worked perfectly :cool: