I need a new flashlight

[MGW]

I lost my 4 year old EDC Fenix E12 on vacation. I need a recommendation on a new one. There were a couple things I didn’t like about the Fenix. It wasn’t on its highest setting when first turned on and it wasn’t the brightest at 120 Lumens.

I would like something that is pocket sized, no clip or easily removed clip, tail cap push button switch, uses standard replaceable batteries. I don’t have a lumen range in mind but brighter is better. I’m okay with something a little bigger than the AA Fenix but I need it to be fairly compact. I wear slacks to work often.

What should I buy?

[JCS]

I lost my 4 year old EDC Fenix E12 on vacation. I need a recommendation on a new one. There were a couple things I didn’t like about the Fenix. It wasn’t on its highest setting when first turned on and it wasn’t the brightest at 120 Lumens.

I would like something that is pocket sized, no clip or easily removed clip, tail cap push button switch, uses standard replaceable batteries. I don’t have a lumen range in mind but brighter is better. I’m okay with something a little bigger than the AA Fenix but I need it to be fairly compact. I wear slacks to work often.

What should I buy?

What’s your price range? Do you care if it’s American made?

[MGW]

What’s your price range? Do you care if it’s American made?

I would prefer to keep it under $100. If it’s a solid light I’m impartial to country of origin.

[BillSWPA]

Streamlight's ProTac 1L-1AA gives you the option of using either a single CR123 or a single AA cell. Runtime is similar either way, but the output is higher with CR123. It can be programmed for your preferred mode of operation (mine is set up for high mode only). Regardless of which other lights I have with me when I travel, I have this light as a backup since I can likely find an AA cell almost anywhere I am likely to go.

[Navin Johnson]

Micro stream if the e12 was ok.

[Joshmill]

I love my Olight m1x with rechargeable battery. Under $100. Bright AF.

[Jason M]

Streamlight's ProTac 1L-1AA gives you the option of using either a single CR123 or a single AA cell. Runtime is similar either way, but the output is higher with CR123. It can be programmed for your preferred mode of operation (mine is set up for high mode only). Regardless of which other lights I have with me when I travel, I have this light as a backup since I can likely find an AA cell almost anywhere I am likely to go.

This should check all of your boxes. I am no fan of Stremlight CS and vowed to never give them another dime but.... I snagged one of these for a very good price via amazon. It is simply a great light.

[rd62]

Streamlight's ProTac 1L-1AA gives you the option of using either a single CR123 or a single AA cell. Runtime is similar either way, but the output is higher with CR123. It can be programmed for your preferred mode of operation (mine is set up for high mode only). Regardless of which other lights I have with me when I travel, I have this light as a backup since I can likely find an AA cell almost anywhere I am likely to go.

I have one of these that rides in my pocket daily everywhere I go. It would be my recommendation.

[revchuck38]

If you can live with USB-rechargeable, I'd go with the Streamlight Microstream. The bronze-colored version goes on high with the first click. I've had mine for over a year and it's worked well. I used it for a low/no-light class with no problem. I charge it when I think about it, either overnight or on a long drive. I think it's 250 lumens on high.

[snow white]

This should check all of your boxes. I am no fan of Stremlight CS and vowed to never give them another dime but.... I snagged one of these for a very good price via amazon. It is simply a great light.

Have you had any problems with battery connectivity with your streamlight? I just kicked my protac HL-X to the curb due to unreliable performance. It works for like 2 or 3 mags then it just stops turning on. I have to fiddle fuck with the tail cap (push button not tail switch) to get it running again. I'm going to buy the cloud defensive tail switch and see if that fixes it. Regardless it's going on a range rifle from here on out.

[willie]

This should check all of your boxes. I am no fan of Stremlight CS and vowed to never give them another dime but.... I snagged one of these for a very good price via amazon. It is simply a great light.

Jason, do you mind discussing your concern about Streamlight productsL

[jeep45238]

I've been very impressed by the Surefire Stilleto - the tailcoat button is programable for momentary or constant, and is the max setting, the normal button is programable low/medium/high or the opposite, and the battery is rechargeable and onboard with a button to check the charge at any time.

Clip is easily removed as well, looks like they run about $100 right now. It doesn't really have a hot spot, and has a decent amount of spill - makes for a great general purpose light. It's really easy to use it at IDPA matches where they require handheld use, as most folks wind up with their light aimed at the ground (round stick in a flat gap between fingers, low lumen and a hot spot). The flat profile doesn't move around in my support hand like a round light does, allows for a better grip with the pistol, the lack hot spot doesn't illuminate the smoke from firing like a smoke screen, and the spill makes technique not matter quite so much. Works decent out to 15 or 20 yards.

The other light I'm a huge fan of for a utility purpose, but isn't nearly as bright and hardly has a throw, is the Streamlight Microstreamlight, also a rechargeable unit (lacks the ability to check charge without plugging in). Goes high medium low in brown, opposite if black. 250 lumens, clip works for pockets or baseball cap bills that's very easy to remove, really small in length and diameter. It's about the size of a stick of chapstick and runs $30. Think of it like a Jframe of flashlights, but holds it's own worth if you're hunting for a missing bolt in the garage, or similar where you don't need a really bright light.

Other than that, the lights that I'm interested in trying are out of the budget listed (which is also my budget). Modlights are what I want to try next, and getting my hands on a white light laser to experiment with is the other one I want to play with.

[rd62]

Have you had any problems with battery connectivity with your streamlight? I just kicked my protac HL-X to the curb due to unreliable performance. It works for like 2 or 3 mags then it just stops turning on. I have to fiddle fuck with the tail cap (push button not tail switch) to get it running again. I'm going to buy the cloud defensive tail switch and see if that fixes it. Regardless it's going on a range rifle from here on out.
I've had zero issues with my sample of one. I wasn't wowed years ago with my duty issue Streamlight Stinger but I love this little Pro-Tac and need to pick up a couple more.

[Navin Johnson]

The OP is replacing a light much smaller than a pro tac or stiletto.

[Jason M]

Have you had any problems with battery connectivity with your streamlight? I just kicked my protac HL-X to the curb due to unreliable performance. It works for like 2 or 3 mags then it just stops turning on. I have to fiddle fuck with the tail cap (push button not tail switch) to get it running again. I'm going to buy the cloud defensive tail switch and see if that fixes it. Regardless it's going on a range rifle from here on out.

None at all with either of the battery types.

[Jason M]

Jason, do you mind discussing your concern about Streamlight productsL

All boiled down, I had a problem with a product. The remediation offered via email was not what was offered in person when I went to their service center. In fairness to SL, I think it was a case of a CS rep and the customer both being in bad moods. My tone, after not getting what was initially offered, probably didn't help. This was some number of years ago and I was a waaaay bigger asshole then.

[MGW]

I haven’t had good luck with micro usb rechargeable stuff in the past. My preference is to just swap batteries as needed.

How big is the ProTac? Am I going to look happy to see you if I carry it in the front pocket of a light weight pair of pants?

[eb07]

Once you go malkoff you never go back.

[Jason M]

I haven’t had good luck with micro usb rechargeable stuff in the past. My preference is to just swap batteries as needed.

How big is the ProTac? Am I going to look happy to see you if I carry it in the front pocket of a light weight pair of pants?

Its about the same as the single 123 cell SF. The E1B? I'll shoot a pic later this evening for you.

[NH Shooter]

Once you go malkoff you never go back.

This one might fit your needs - https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-ha-tac-1cr123-flashlight

[JCS]

I would prefer to keep it under $100. If it’s a solid light I’m impartial to country of origin.

This to me checks all the boxes for an etc light
https://www.batteryjunction.com/jetbeam-rrt01-raptor-2020.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwrvv3BRAJEiwAhwOdM-RfJub2XLPnQ_D_FxR7FMXBMCvvfM01XarCtH7M1sg3_bStAn0Q XhoC2oIQAvD_BwE

I prefer a light that gives me access to both low and high modes out of the pocket. This has a rotary bezel and a click tailcap. That means if I want to I can rotate the bezel all the way to high and have a "tactical" light that comes on high every time I pull it out of my pocket without having to adjust it. However, if it's dark and I don't want to blind myself b/c I'm just looking for something I can rotate the bezel and get a low or medium output.

Streamlight's are reliable and they market towards first responders, but they are really far behind in terms of output and battery life. I don't like their modes but that's a preference thing. I want a high and a low. I really don't need anything else for what I need from an edc light.

[Gater]

This is a Protac 1L-1AA with a AAA Microstream. The USB version of the Microstream is a little bit longer.

I have an old style Fenix E11, which is I think is a little longer than the E12 but similar diameter. I can snap a pic of the E11, 1L-1AA, and USB Microstream if that helps.

[vcdgrips]

My EDC about 70% of the time is an 4sevens quark 123 set up on high/high strobe that I purchased in 10 ish years ago after seeing a post about it from TLG. Lately, I have added my original Laser Product 6P with a M61 Malkoff single 450 lumen output head to the mix.

If one of the Streamlight products can be set up so it always comes on and stays on high or perhaps high strobe, that is likely the intersection of quality and value.

Having said that, if I was looking for a small single cell today, I would look very hard at a Malkoff Single High Output (250 lumens) , An Elzetta High Output (410 lumens) or the Surefire EDCL1-T which is 5 lumens when you push it soft and 500 when you push it hard.

I want my light bright with NO chance of it being less bright unless I want it to be so. "Switchology" is interesting but with the possible exception of the old school Gladius, is is too fraught with variability for my mind/hands.


Let us know what you end up with and why you made that choice. Be safe and well.



https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-ha-sho-1cr123-flashlight

https://www.elzetta.com/product/A114/

https://www.amazon.com/SureFire-Handheld-Flashlight-Everyday-Lightjunction/dp/B07BHTKJGC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=edcl1&qid=1593797504&s=hardware&sr=1-1

[Gater]

A quick comparison. Microstream USB, old style Fenix E11, Protac 1L-1AA.

The clip on the Protac comes off pretty easily.

56798

[Erik]

This to me checks all the boxes for an etc light
https://www.batteryjunction.com/jetbeam-rrt01-raptor-2020.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwrvv3BRAJEiwAhwOdM-RfJub2XLPnQ_D_FxR7FMXBMCvvfM01XarCtH7M1sg3_bStAn0Q XhoC2oIQAvD_BwE



I carry an HDS Systems EDC Tactical every day. (https://www.hdssystems.com/Products/Tactical/) It has a tailcap switch for on/off and a rotary bezel for adjustment, similar to the Jetbeam light linked above. I keep the bezel set on max, which means it defaults to momentary on and can be adjusted through strobe to lower settings easily. I could just as easily leave it on strobe if I wanted to. I love this light. It's bulletproof, intuitive and dead simple to use. It's also stupid expensive at $324 for the 325 lumen model and not as bright as a lot of others, though plenty bright for my use. I'd recommend the HDS light all day every day if you were willing to spend the money for it. The rotary interface is just the best, as far as I'm concerned. That Jetbeam is the first light I've seen that I would consider as an alternative for myself. I can't really tell how strobe is engaged, so it might not be quite as simple to operate, but in reality, how often are you going to need to go to strobe in a hurry? I do NOT need another damn flashlight but I'm pretty tempted. Dammit.

[Navin Johnson]

Another option is a sidekick (surefire). It is my go to Cary light due to shape and size unless I need something specific.

It is rechargeable only but that is the future..... or now of carry lights.

The downside is no easy way to attach to a hat. But I always keep a hands-free light in my car.

[cjb1911]

I just ordered the new macro stream so I can’t wait to try it. Right now, I like the protac 90, bc it’s nice to stand up on its tail cap to work on diff things.

[DMF13]

I have carried one of these for years, although usually in the included pouch (behind my spare mag), but occasionally in my pocket:
https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/protac-1l

It's 275 lumens, and with the programmable switch you can make sure it comes in full bright.

That one uses CR123 batteries, so if I needed to replace it I might go with:
https://www.streamlight.com/en/products/detail/index/protac-1l-1aa

That one can use either a CR123 (350 lumens) or a AA (150 lumens).

Both can be found for around $35-$45.

[Hot Sauce]

This one might fit your needs - https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-ha-tac-1cr123-flashlightIs there a way to get the malkoff where it's programmable to be High only? I'd be interested (if they were in stock).

EDIT: Found it https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-ha-sho-1cr123-flashlight. How often do they restock, anyone know?

[BillSWPA]

Is there a way to get the malkoff where it's programmable to be High only? I'd be interested (if they were in stock).

EDIT: Found it https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-ha-sho-1cr123-flashlight. How often do they restock, anyone know?

I would not be surprised if it takes a few weeks at least, but it will be well worth the wait.

In that size light, you might also consider the Bodyguard version 1: https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-bodyguard

I have carried either this light or the version 2 Bodyguard every day for several months now. You get a really high mode every time you press the tail switch, but then get a medium output after about 8 seconds of runtime. The next time you press the switch, it goes right back to high. It is one of the most useful user interfaces I have seen.

[blues]

I would not be surprised if it takes a few weeks at least, but it will be well worth the wait.

In that size light, you might also consider the Bodyguard version 1: https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/malkoff-small-led-flashlights/products/mdc-bodyguard

I have carried either this light or the version 2 Bodyguard every day for several months now. You get a really high mode every time you press the tail switch, but then get a medium output after about 8 seconds of runtime. The next time you press the switch, it goes right back to high. It is one of the most useful user interfaces I have seen.

Concur. I have both as well. I usually carry the bigger brother...but I'm generally in Duluth cargo shorts or trousers.

[Hot Sauce]

blues BillSWPA Do you guys not find the 600 lumens overwhelming? Just thinking from a nightstand/indoor use perspective, and maybe lighting up a white wall or something analogously light reflective in close quarters?

For reference, my previous light was a Streamlight ProTac 1L-1AA, which claims a rating 350 lumens with CR123A batteries. Worked well for me, but it had a slick body which sometimes hobbled presentation, and eventually allowed it to get dislodged and lost when clipped to my pants around town.

[ratter75]

Forgive me if somebody already mentioned it but the Protac 1L can also take a AAA. As mentioned if a CR123 isn’t handy, certainly everybody can scrounge up a AA or AAA in a pinch.

[BillSWPA]

blues BillSWPA Do you guys not find the 600 lumens overwhelming? Just thinking from a nightstand/indoor use perspective, and maybe lighting up a white wall or something analogously light reflective in close quarters?

For reference, my previous light was a Streamlight ProTac 1L-1AA, which claims a rating 350 lumens with CR123A batteries. Worked well for me, but it had a slick body which sometimes hobbled presentation, and eventually allowed it to get dislodged and lost when clipped to my pants around town.

I have not found it to be overwhelming. My understanding is that you need at least 450 lumens in order to have a noticeable effect on someone on the receiving end, and I want to be sure my light has that potential.

[eb07]

I am a AA man all the way. Why? I travel to rural mexico and central america often and I want to be able to have batteries available to me in a pinch. They are available everywhere.

I went with the 1AA version and bought the 2AA tube as well. I went Malkoff because I am DONE supporting china whenever I possibly can. All my china lights were sold off, given away or thrown out.

https://malkoffdevices.com/products/mdc-ha-1aa-flashlight

https://malkoffdevices.com/products/mdc-ha-2aa-body-only

Small for lighweight carry. Larger for when I plan on being away for a while.

115 Lumen for the small, 250 for high. I live rural in a no streetlight area. It is more than enough for me at night, either in town or in the desert. My concern isn't overwhelming, it is identification and it works just fine.

They both fit in my pocket but I mostly go 1AA unless I am traveling.

https://i.postimg.cc/cvmqx2nY/00100lr-PORTRAIT-00100-BURST20200518065856041-COVER.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cvmqx2nY)

https://i.postimg.cc/grCbNvpw/IMG-20200421-160624.jpg (https://postimg.cc/grCbNvpw)

https://i.postimg.cc/hXgWqcfc/IMG-20200515-150408-01.jpg (https://postimg.cc/hXgWqcfc)

[Elwin]

I carried a 1L-1AA for years until replacing it with a similarly-sized Surefire EDCL-1T. I really like both lights, and need to replace the Streamlight I gave away to my sister-in-law (along with some pepper spray) so I have a backup again. The Streamlight to me is 80% of the Surefire's features and performance at 20% of the price.

That said, they are both large for carrying in slacks, though the Streamlight's smaller head/bezel helps it out a bit. I manage both in office attire, but by carrying them in my back left pocket, bezel down, in a cheapo leather pocket "sheath" from Amazon that's intended for a light and a pocket knife, to keep them oriented and prevent wear on my pants from the bezel. I don't think either would work well in the front pocket of slacks that are properly fitted. Not unnoticed, at least. The flat Stiletto may be better for carrying as much light as possible that way.

[blues]

blues BillSWPA Do you guys not find the 600 lumens overwhelming? Just thinking from a nightstand/indoor use perspective, and maybe lighting up a white wall or something analogously light reflective in close quarters?

For reference, my previous light was a Streamlight ProTac 1L-1AA, which claims a rating 350 lumens with CR123A batteries. Worked well for me, but it had a slick body which sometimes hobbled presentation, and eventually allowed it to get dislodged and lost when clipped to my pants around town.

Hot Sauce

I haven't found it to be problematic. I tend to aim low with the light to begin with unless I suspect I'm dealing with a live threat. No issues with walls etc for me personally. You can light up a lot of stuff up just aiming off or reflecting off the floor.

The difference is not as big as it "sounds". It may be somewhat like music amplification in that it takes a lot more energy to come close to doubling the signal. (But I use that only as an illustration.)

[delphidoc]

The pics below are my Zebralight SC52w. The current version is the SC53c, among others. Runs on a single AA battery. 285 lumens on high.

I also have a couple of their floody headlamps. Also run on a single AA battery. Current version is the H53Fw, among others.


57067


57068

[RevolverRob]

Quark QK16L MKIII - https://darksucks.com/collections/foursevens/products/quark-qk16l-mkiii

Or the QK2A MKIII - https://darksucks.com/collections/foursevens/products/quark-qk2a-mkiii

Conversion Bodies Are available as well: https://darksucks.com/collections/foursevens/products/quark-conversion-bodies

The new Quarks are as quality as the old ones, the new owner of Foursevens (Jason Hui) is a man committed to a high quality product and provides good customer service as well. The only thing I don't like about the new Quarks is that they recommend against the use of Alkaline batteries in AA and AAA lights. I understand why (because they leak), but in my experience, one of the primary reasons to choose an AA or AAA light is broad availability of batteries. The good news is, you shouldn't experience any major issues if you use them short-term, just don't stick two alkalines in your light and then leave it in your glovebox for 3-years. Alkalines have shorter lifespan, so I would expect run-time to be diminished. It is what it is.

If you want the closest to the most bomb-ass version of the old school Quark. Get a QK16L, a 1xAA conversion body, and 14500 high-discharge (4.2v) batteries. That will give you 700-lumens of turbo/burst mode in a 1xAA form factor, when assembled. I have two in the old school (twist head for low mode) and they are awesome.

[MGW]

The Body Guard type 1 sounds like a really great light. I’m split between it and the battery versatility of the Pro-Tac 1L 1AA. I was gifted a rechargeable Streamlight Strion LED a few years ago that I use for bedside. It’s been a really good light. I really like the idea lumen output and interface of the Body Guard.

[BillSWPA]

Quark QK16L MKIII - https://darksucks.com/collections/foursevens/products/quark-qk16l-mkiii

Or the QK2A MKIII - https://darksucks.com/collections/foursevens/products/quark-qk2a-mkiii

Conversion Bodies Are available as well: https://darksucks.com/collections/foursevens/products/quark-conversion-bodies

The new Quarks are as quality as the old ones, the new owner of Foursevens (Jason Hui) is a man committed to a high quality product and provides good customer service as well. The only thing I don't like about the new Quarks is that they recommend against the use of Alkaline batteries in AA and AAA lights. I understand why (because they leak), but in my experience, one of the primary reasons to choose an AA or AAA light is broad availability of batteries. The good news is, you shouldn't experience any major issues if you use them short-term, just don't stick two alkalines in your light and then leave it in your glovebox for 3-years. Alkalines have shorter lifespan, so I would expect run-time to be diminished. It is what it is.

If you want the closest to the most bomb-ass version of the old school Quark. Get a QK16L, a 1xAA conversion body, and 14500 high-discharge (4.2v) batteries. That will give you 700-lumens of turbo/burst mode in a 1xAA form factor, when assembled. I have two in the old school (twist head for low mode) and they are awesome.

I stopped using alkaline any time I have a choice several years ago. In the vast majority of devices, Eneloop NiMH cells provide superior performance without any danger of leaking. In the rare device for which they do not work well (two out of several dozen in my household), Energizer Ultimate Lithium works well.

Although the initial costs of cells and chargers is high, NiMH will save a lot of money in the long term. It is also nice not to have any reason to ever have less than an 80% charge. Two members of my household have 4xAA lights on their bikes, and being able to charge and replace after every night ride is nice.

Furthermore, around the time I started switching, I lost multiple Maglights to peaking alkaline batteries. The cost of ruined devices must also be considered.

If I am traveling, need de batteries now, and can only quickly and easily get alkalines, the. It is nice to have that option, but that is the limit of their usefulness to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BillSWPA]

The Body Guard type 1 sounds like a really great light. I’m split between it and the battery versatility of the Pro-Tac 1L 1AA. I was gifted a rechargeable Streamlight Strion LED a few years ago that I use for bedside. It’s been a really good light. I really like the idea lumen output and interface of the Body Guard.

If you use 16340 Li-Ion cells, the Bodyguard is nice. If you use CR123, the longer runtime of the Streamlight may make more sense.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mrozowjj]

The pics below are my Zebralight SC52w. The current version is the SC53c, among others. Runs on a single AA battery. 285 lumens on high.

I also have a couple of their floody headlamps. Also run on a single AA battery. Current version is the H53Fw, among others.


57067


57068


Finally another man of culture. :)



I'd go a step further and recommend the Zebralight SC5c or SC5w. They are slightly thicker but they are designed to give 14500 output on a AA sized battery and still smaller than most. The SC5c would be my choice as it's a 4000K tint with a CRI of 93-95 but you're giving up some over lumens (476 max vs the 550) the UI is predictable, intuitive and the newer versions are entirely programmable so if you really just wanted to make a single mode light you could.

http://www.zebralight.com/SC5c-Mk-II-AA-Flashlight-Neutral-White-High-CRI_p_192.html

My other favorite AA light is the Eagletac D25A Mk2 as it's the slimmest AA light out there period that's still worth a damn and it has a pretty good UI with a good. I have one with the Nichia emitter which reduces the overall output but it has the nicest tint and CRI of the options. If you don't care about tint you can get 400 lumens out of a single AA
http://www.eagtac.com/html/d25arcmkii/index.html

One of the best budget AA out there is the Thrunite T10 II as it's $24 but it's only pushing 160 lumens
https://thrunite.com/t10/




If you're willing to go to Lithium Ion batteries you can get the Zebralight SC64c which isn't much bigger than the SC5 but it does put out 900 lumens and has the same UI and all that:
http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html

Or you can go crazy with this little pocket rocket the Lumintop FW3A that will out 2800 lumens out something not much thicker but it will get super hot and might burn you.

https://www.illumn.com/lumintop-fw3a-tlf-blf-edc-aluminum-flashlight.html

If 2800 lumens isn't enough you can step it up to the Emisar D4V2 which can put out 4200 lumens with a slightly thicker head. Be careful if you go this route though as the Emisar D4 on full power will get so hot it will burn through pants pockets, bags or anything else you have near it. It will light paper on fire and it will eventually get so hot that it will desolder the LED itself but don't worry as it will get way to hold to old before then. :)
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html

If that isn't enough you you can even put a 18350 tube on it (compatible with a CR123a) and get the same output with a reduced runtime in a tiny little package like this:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/f1ep10/edc_d4v2_18350_with_shortened_emisar_clip_and/

[NH Shooter]

As a flashlight nerd, I carry two lights;

https://i.ibb.co/nrP693L/edc-20.jpg


The smaller of the two rides in my pocket 24/7. Its role is to serve as a general utility light, which I think is the use the OP has in mind. This is a single-mode, 230 lumen light that I find perfect for this application. It runs on full output with a Li-ion 16340 cell, and at about half output with a single CR123 lithium battery. Runtime with the 16340 is about two hours before a noticeable fall in output, and will run a few hours more with a slow, steady decline to dim.

I very much like single-output lights. Partially press the McClicky switch it's on, let it go and it's off (click for constant-on). No messing with multiple presses of the tail cap switch to get the level I want. I find the 230-lumen output to be perfect for my utilitarian uses - bright enough so see around outdoors in the dark, but not overwhelming inside when looking for something in the back of a closet or under the furniture for a missing item. The light measures 3-3/4" long, 1-1/8" OD at the bezel and weighs 4 ounces. It's not the smallest or lightest, but sits in the bottom of a pants pocket comfortably and built like a tank that will take endless abuse. This light is made of the following components;

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/mdc-ha-1cr123-body-only

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/parts-and-miscellaneous-items/products/vme-malkoff-valiant-concepts-head

https://malkoffdevices.com/collections/surefire-drop-ins-for-6p-g2-c2-etc-6-9-volts/products/m61l-low-output-to-fit-surefire

The other cool thing about this Lego is that there are many drop-ins that can be used, so I'm not stuck with what some light manufacturer thinks I need.

The light on the top is dedicated entirely to self-defense purposes. She's a wicked 70,000-candela retina-searing bitch that you can read about here (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?40678-Malkoff-E2HT-Light-Saber) - see post #32 for details on the current version shown here. Clips comfortably to the inside of a front pants pocket.

[cornstalker]

Streamlight's ProTac 1L-1AA gives you the option of using either a single CR123 or a single AA cell. Runtime is similar either way, but the output is higher with CR123. It can be programmed for your preferred mode of operation (mine is set up for high mode only). Regardless of which other lights I have with me when I travel, I have this light as a backup since I can likely find an AA cell almost anywhere I am likely to go.

I always have one of these in my pocket. No issues. I use it daily at work, and it munches batteries. Still worth having.

[JclInAtx]

Too big for your needs, but a note about Streamlights. I've had a streamlight 2L for probably 5 years now that gets used for walking the dog and jogging. Its been dropped plenty of times and keeps going. I don't notice any warning signs that the batteries are low before the light will turn off unexpectedly. Usually a click off then on will get it back. Not sure if its because I only use it on low, or just me being dim, or if its my sample of 1. If you get a streamlight and don't already you may want a strict battery replacement schedule.

[Doc_Glock]

The pics below are my Zebralight SC52w. The current version is the SC53c, among others. Runs on a single AA battery. 285 lumens on high.

I also have a couple of their floody headlamps. Also run on a single AA battery. Current version is the H53Fw, among others.


57067


57068

I have not been without a similar Zebralight for years. I simply love it.

[Hot Sauce]

@Hot Sauce (https://pistol-forum.com/member.php?u=10628)

I haven't found it to be problematic. I tend to aim low with the light to begin with unless I suspect I'm dealing with a live threat. No issues with walls etc for me personally. You can light up a lot of stuff up just aiming off or reflecting off the floor.

The difference is not as big as it "sounds". It may be somewhat like music amplification in that it takes a lot more energy to come close to doubling the signal. (But I use that only as an illustration.)

I have not found it to be overwhelming. My understanding is that you need at least 450 lumens in order to have a noticeable effect on someone on the receiving end, and I want to be sure my light has that potential.

Thanks guys. I feel like I've stepped into a light nerd ambush with this thread.

With the Bodyguard V1, what kind of realistic run times are you guys getting?

I'm not sold on the idea of going to the more boutique specialty batteries yet, so I'm thinking with CR123A in mind. One other thing to mention, I don't plan to carry multiple lights, so I'm coming at it from that standpoint.

[Up1911Fan]

I've been using various Streamlight ProTac's lately. Similar sized Surefires are brighter. I sold a basic Surefire and bouggt 3 Streamlight's.

[BillSWPA]

Thanks guys. I feel like I've stepped into a light nerd ambush with this thread.

With the Bodyguard V1, what kind of realistic run times are you guys getting?

I'm not sold on the idea of going to the more boutique specialty batteries yet, so I'm thinking with CR123A in mind. One other thing to mention, I don't plan to carry multiple lights, so I'm coming at it from that standpoint.

I never did any runtime testing. Malkoff is known for providing accurate runtime information. Given the short stated runtime for a high percentage of intermittent, full power use, I check my 16340 voltage frequently. If it is much below 4 v, I replace it with a fully charged 16340 and place the partially depleted one on a charger.

I would encourage using 16340 instead of CR123 with the Bodyguard. With CR123, you have to choose between carrying the light with a partially depleted cell or discarding cells that still have usable runtime. Although the cost of these cells is much lower than when I first got into CR123 lights, a 16340 is still superior. Li-Ion does not develop memory, and can be topped off without reducing runtime. If in doubt, just pop in a fully charged cell and throw the other one on a charger.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[delphidoc]

Thanks guys. I feel like I've stepped into a light nerd ambush with this thread.





LOL


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/content.php

[Hot Sauce]

I never did any runtime testing. Malkoff is known for providing accurate runtime information. Given the short stated runtime for a high percentage of intermittent, full power use, I check my 16340 voltage frequently. If it is much below 4 v, I replace it with a fully charged 16340 and place the partially depleted one on a charger.

I would encourage using 16340 instead of CR123 with the Bodyguard. With CR123, you have to choose between carrying the light with a partially depleted cell or discarding cells that still have usable runtime. Although the cost of these cells is much lower than when I first got into CR123 lights, a 16340 is still superior. Li-Ion does not develop memory, and can be topped off without reducing runtime. If in doubt, just pop in a fully charged cell and throw the other one on a charger.
I was thinking about backpacking months long travel, where stocking up on extra batteries before starting out is easier than recharging if you're spending time in the backwoods with little gear. Though, it's true, I'm not a nomad so it's not the majority of my use. How often are you topping off/changing out your RCR123?

[BillSWPA]

I was thinking about backpacking months long travel, where stocking up on extra batteries before starting out is easier than recharging if you're spending time in the backwoods with little gear. Though, it's true, I'm not a nomad so it's not the majority of my use. How often are you topping off/changing out your RCR123?

That is quite different from my typical use, which is infrequent and for brief periods of time. I typically only have to recharge every few weeks.

For that use, I would suggest a multi-mode light powered by an 18650, which can have 3,400-3,600 mAh as compared to the 700 mAh of a 16340.

[Hot Sauce]

That is quite different from my typical use, which is infrequent and for brief periods of time. I typically only have to recharge every few weeks.

For that use, I would suggest a multi-mode light powered by an 18650, which can have 3,400-3,600 mAh as compared to the 700 mAh of a 16340.Got a light in mind? Form factor I'm looking for is right around that ProTac L1-AA1 size based on what I've tried. BTW if this is better over PMs just let me know.

[BillSWPA]

Got a light in mind? Form factor I'm looking for is right around that ProTac L1-AA1 size based on what I've tried. BTW if this is better over PMs just let me know.

Anything 18650 powered will be significantly larger than this light. If you are happy with the ability to use CR123 or AA, then perhaps the Streamlight 1L-1AA is a good way to go. It can be programmed for multi mode use so that you can choose between high output and high runtime. Although you will likely want to carry multiple spare batteries, either size is easy to carry. If you find yourself completely out, you can likely find some AA without much difficulty anywhere near civilization.

Prior to buying my Malkoff Bodyguards, I often carried a Klarus XT2C. I have three of the XT2C lights at different lumen levels (acquired as the design was upgraded), as well as an XT2CR. They are all nice lights, but the XT2CR does have noticeable parasitic drain on the cell when the light is off. The rate of drain is sufficiently small that noticing it during a backpacking trip would require a very long trip. Although these lights can accept 2xCR123, they really need 18650 for serious runtime.

[Hot Sauce]

Anything 18650 powered will be significantly larger than this light. If you are happy with the ability to use CR123 or AA, then perhaps the Streamlight 1L-1AA is a good way to go. It can be programmed for multi mode use so that you can choose between high output and high runtime. Although you will likely want to carry multiple spare batteries, either size is easy to carry. If you find yourself completely out, you can likely find some AA without much difficulty anywhere near civilization.

Prior to buying my Malkoff Bodyguards, I often carried a Klarus XT2C. I have three of the XT2C lights at different lumen levels (acquired as the design was upgraded), as well as an XT2CR. They are all nice lights, but the XT2CR does have noticeable parasitic drain on the cell when the light is off. The rate of drain is sufficiently small that noticing it during a backpacking trip would require a very long trip. Although these lights can accept 2xCR123, they really need 18650 for serious runtime.Thanks, I'll do some reading on the Klarus light.

Yes, the 1L-1AA was good from the perspective of using AAs in a pinch. Never came to that for me, but a good theoretical benefit. As I mentioned, it fell out unceremoniously and was lost, and was also a bit slick just drawing when shooting. Maybe I could have solved that with something low-tech like o-rings or rubber bands on the mid body.

Regarding the running the Malkoff Bodyguard vs MDC High Only... any feedback on shrouded vs unshrouded switch? The shrouded looks like it might be tough to hit from the photos, but those could be deceiving.

[BillSWPA]

Thanks, I'll do some reading on the Klarus light.

Yes, the 1L-1AA was good from the perspective of using AAs in a pinch. Never came to that for me, but a good theoretical benefit. As I mentioned, it fell out unceremoniously and was lost, and was also a bit slick just drawing when shooting. Maybe I could have solved that with something low-tech like o-rings or rubber bands on the mid body.

Regarding the running the Malkoff Bodyguard vs MDC High Only... any feedback on shrouded vs unshrouded switch? The shrouded looks like it might be tough to hit from the photos, but those could be deceiving.

I prefer shrouded. It is a little more difficult to hit, but not bad. The shrouded version of the Bodyguard v2 is also the absolute best light I have ever found for use as a Kubotan/Yawara/pocket stick type impact weapon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[UNM1136]

blues BillSWPA Do you guys not find the 600 lumens overwhelming? Just thinking from a nightstand/indoor use perspective, and maybe lighting up a white wall or something analogously light reflective in close quarters?

For reference, my previous light was a Streamlight ProTac 1L-1AA, which claims a rating 350 lumens with CR123A batteries. Worked well for me, but it had a slick body which sometimes hobbled presentation, and eventually allowed it to get dislodged and lost when clipped to my pants around town.

Neither one of those guys, but I have been on 3rd shift for 17 years, and I like more light. The only time I have wished for less light is when suddenly finding a mirror on a building search. I do lots of building searches. I have frequently wished for more light. You can do more with more light than less. Most searching is done with indirect lighting until something gets your attention. If a hot spot on a wall is blinding or dazzling, point the light up or down 15-45 degrees off of horizontal to move the bright spot out of the center of your field of view. Even then, more is better, because more light allows for more spill. Unless you are holding a Cylon at gunpoint you will be worrying about things other than overwhelming light when someone is lit up. Portability of a light is more important than how bright it isn't. The most light that will fit into something you are willing to carry is the key. Next payday I am picking up an Olight PL Pro Valkyrie at 1500 lumens to replace a no longer useable 850 lumen TRL1H, at half the cost of the 1000 lumen Surefire X300U for my Glock 17 duty piece.

I seem to recall Uncle Pat giving similar advice.

For what it is worth, on my time I carry the same Pro-Tac.

I used to have a sergeant who would light up a room by shining his light on a white ceiling. I also have been known to enter a room and throw the light switch on building searches. More light is better.


pat

[Hot Sauce]

I prefer shrouded. It is a little more difficult to hit, but not bad. The shrouded version of the Bodyguard v2 is also the absolute best light I have ever found for use as a Kubotan/Yawara/pocket stick type impact weapon.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHmm. I should try to find out what the run time is for the Bodyguard on CR123A--some googling found me that it kicks the High mode down to 450 from 600 with such a battery choice. I like the idea that it could use two types of batteries, where I could continue w/CR123 and still have the option to step up to Lithium RCR later.

Thanks for your feedback, light guru san. :)

[Hot Sauce]

Neither one of those guys, but I have been on 3rd shift for 17 years, and I like more light. The only time I have wished for less light is when suddenly finding a mirror on a building search. I do lots of building searches. I have frequently wished for more light. You can do more with more light than less. Most searching is done with indirect lighting until something gets your attention. If a hot spot on a wall is blinding or dazzling, point the light up or down 15-45 degrees off of horizontal to move the bright spot out of the center of your field of view. Even then, more is better, because more light allows for more spill. Unless you are holding a Cylon at gunpoint you will be worrying about things other than overwhelming light when someone is lit up. Portability of a light is more important than how bright it isn't. The most light that will fit into something you are willing to carry is the key. Next payday I am picking up an Olight PL Pro Valkyrie at 1500 lumens to replace a no longer useable 850 lumen TRL1H, at half the cost of the 1000 lumen Surefire X300U for my Glock 17 duty piece.

I seem to recall Uncle Pat giving similar advice.

For what it is worth, on my time I carry the same Pro-Tac.

I used to have a sergeant who would light up a room by shining his light on a white ceiling. I also have been known to enter a room and throw the light switch on building searches. More light is better.


patSolid advice. And I fully agree with you being the fastest with the mostest: this whole exploration is about deciding on a light in the 1 CR123A sized battery envelope, because I know those are unobtrusive enough to always have on me.

[blues]

Thanks guys. I feel like I've stepped into a light nerd ambush with this thread.

With the Bodyguard V1, what kind of realistic run times are you guys getting?

I'm not sold on the idea of going to the more boutique specialty batteries yet, so I'm thinking with CR123A in mind. One other thing to mention, I don't plan to carry multiple lights, so I'm coming at it from that standpoint.

Hot Sauce

I'd go with the data on the Malkoff site. Gene is very reliable (conservative) with his numbers. I tend to only use it for very short periods so I've never done a test of how long it lasts.

When the battery gets down to about 3.75 volts I put it on the charger. (I have plenty of disposable CR123 primaries, but I use the recommended high drain rechargeable with no issues or surprises. )

[JCS]

Finally another man of culture. :)



I'd go a step further and recommend the Zebralight SC5c or SC5w. They are slightly thicker but they are designed to give 14500 output on a AA sized battery and still smaller than most. The SC5c would be my choice as it's a 4000K tint with a CRI of 93-95 but you're giving up some over lumens (476 max vs the 550) the UI is predictable, intuitive and the newer versions are entirely programmable so if you really just wanted to make a single mode light you could.

http://www.zebralight.com/SC5c-Mk-II-AA-Flashlight-Neutral-White-High-CRI_p_192.html

My other favorite AA light is the Eagletac D25A Mk2 as it's the slimmest AA light out there period that's still worth a damn and it has a pretty good UI with a good. I have one with the Nichia emitter which reduces the overall output but it has the nicest tint and CRI of the options. If you don't care about tint you can get 400 lumens out of a single AA
http://www.eagtac.com/html/d25arcmkii/index.html

One of the best budget AA out there is the Thrunite T10 II as it's $24 but it's only pushing 160 lumens
https://thrunite.com/t10/




If you're willing to go to Lithium Ion batteries you can get the Zebralight SC64c which isn't much bigger than the SC5 but it does put out 900 lumens and has the same UI and all that:
http://www.zebralight.com/SC64c-LE-18650-4000K-High-CRI-Flashlight-Limited-Edition_p_239.html

Or you can go crazy with this little pocket rocket the Lumintop FW3A that will out 2800 lumens out something not much thicker but it will get super hot and might burn you.

https://www.illumn.com/lumintop-fw3a-tlf-blf-edc-aluminum-flashlight.html

If 2800 lumens isn't enough you can step it up to the Emisar D4V2 which can put out 4200 lumens with a slightly thicker head. Be careful if you go this route though as the Emisar D4 on full power will get so hot it will burn through pants pockets, bags or anything else you have near it. It will light paper on fire and it will eventually get so hot that it will desolder the LED itself but don't worry as it will get way to hold to old before then. :)
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html

If that isn't enough you you can even put a 18350 tube on it (compatible with a CR123a) and get the same output with a reduced runtime in a tiny little package like this:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/f1ep10/edc_d4v2_18350_with_shortened_emisar_clip_and/

I just picked up a lumintop fw1a and that thing is straight up dangerous unless you do the clicky switch mod to require more pressure. It was super prone to accidental activation and it’ll straight up burn through your pants if it’s on high. However now that I fixed the tailcap it is dang near perfection. I can access low or high out of the pocket and it’s tiny for an 18650 light. I used it on the 4th of July and was lighting up trees at 100 yards.

[mrozowjj]

I just picked up a lumintop fw1a and that thing is straight up dangerous unless you do the clicky switch mod to require more pressure. It was super prone to accidental activation and it’ll straight up burn through your pants if it’s on high. However now that I fixed the tailcap it is dang near perfection. I can access low or high out of the pocket and it’s tiny for an 18650 light. I used it on the 4th of July and was lighting up trees at 100 yards.


As much as I love the energy density, output and runtime of 18650 lights I mostly carry the Eagletac D25A I mentioined with the Nichia emitter and a 14500 cell because I rarely need more light than that offers and I love how slim it is compared to any of my 18650 lights so the FW1A is interesting to me as I had been begging the designers on the Budget Light Forum to design the FW3A with a single emitter in a much slimmer AA/14500 sized tube for a while, so when I saw there was a FW1A on the way I was stoked until I saw it was just a single emitter version that was still a 18650 body. :(

[ArgentFix]

Have you had any problems with battery connectivity with your streamlight? I just kicked my protac HL-X to the curb due to unreliable performance. It works for like 2 or 3 mags then it just stops turning on. I have to fiddle fuck with the tail cap (push button not tail switch) to get it running again. I'm going to buy the cloud defensive tail switch and see if that fixes it. Regardless it's going on a range rifle from here on out.

What battery or batteries were you using? The recommended Streamlight "SL-B26" rechargeable 18650 is slightly longer than a "standard" 18650. Maybe a shorter 18650 wouldn't work perfectly if the HL-X tailcap spring compresses a little under recoil? Oh lord, not another spring discussion... Also 2xCR123A are slightly longer than a standard 18650, closer to the SL-B26 length, so that might work better for you.

I ask because I recently ordered an HL-X for rail mount as well. The USB charge feature of the SL-B26 isn't necessary for me, and there are other, cheaper, higher capacity 18650s available.

(Mods feel free to move if this drifts too far)

[Hot Sauce]

Finally snagged an MDC High Only when they got back in stock. Liking it so far! Will report back with more deets as time goes. Thanks blues BillSWPA NH Shooter

[Mirolynmonbro]

How do you feel about right angle lights? I carried an armytek elf c2 for a while in my bag and it was very handy. The hold press for moonlight mode is great. If you want something smaller there's the Manker E02 and E03. The E02 uses AAA and E03 is AA. These would be good task lights

I just picked up a malkoff m61hot MD2 to carry instead of the single cell bodyguard. The MD2 carries better in my pocket and the unshrouded button and on the bodyguard gets activated in my pocket sometimes

[Magsz]

What battery or batteries were you using? The recommended Streamlight "SL-B26" rechargeable 18650 is slightly longer than a "standard" 18650. Maybe a shorter 18650 wouldn't work perfectly if the HL-X tailcap spring compresses a little under recoil? Oh lord, not another spring discussion... Also 2xCR123A are slightly longer than a standard 18650, closer to the SL-B26 length, so that might work better for you.

I ask because I recently ordered an HL-X for rail mount as well. The USB charge feature of the SL-B26 isn't necessary for me, and there are other, cheaper, higher capacity 18650s available.

(Mods feel free to move if this drifts too far)

Most people that have the flickering issues with the HLX light are solving that problem with the use of an 18650.

To stay on topic, how about a Streamlight Macrostream? Really nice output in a really nice form factor.