I'm revolver shopping and need guidance

[DocSabo40]

I've got my 40th birthday coming up next week and I've decided that now is a good time to get into shooting revolvers. Which means I'm revolver shopping and I need some help. My wheelgun experience is limited to SAAs, a 2.5" 629PC, and a 2.5" GP100 (still have that one). I am completely ignorant of the Ruger vs S&W vs Colt comparisons, and equally clueless about revolver maintenance.

Basic requirements:
1. Decent trigger or can be made to have one at the end-user level
2. Will hold up to a lot of dry practice. I only shoot 3-400 rounds a month these days, but I dry practice 2-3 times a week
3. 3" barrel. This will not replace my P229 as my carry gun, but I could see it as a hiking gun.
4. Under $1200ish
5. .38 special or larger
6. Aesthetically pleasing (no King Cobra)

Just from browsing, I'm a big fan of the S&W 625 in 45ACP with a 3" barrel. I see a few "model of 1989" on GB within my budget. I also like what I see from Ruger with the GP100 3" 10mm. I would be interested in a Python if they made a 3", though slightly over budget.

Anything in particular that I should be aware of? Any certain years of production to avoid, or specific models that stand out as exceptional?

[Duces Tecum]

Following.

[Totem Polar]

Colt is out, if you don’t like the King.

Kimber is most likely out, due to its only documented weakness being related to dry-firing: firing pin breakage reported with large amounts of dry fire. Religious use of snap caps is theorized to mitigate the issue, but it’s still something to mull over. Plus, it’s a smaller gun; the 3” version is almost exactly the same overall size as a 3 1/8” Ruger SP101.

So that leaves S&W and Ruger. Given your bias towards end-user friendly tuning and maintenance, the Ruger would seem to make more sense. JMO, but I can—and have—do a decent trigger hone on GPs and SPs. Getting inside an old ‘Smith for anything other than very occasional cleaning and spring swaps is where I draw my own line, but to each their own.

As well, another Ruger might allow for commonality of accessories with what you’ve got. I’d probably look at the match Champion that gun nut Caleb first brought to our attention:

https://ruger.com/products/gp100MatchChampion/specSheets/1786.html

Yeah, I know it’s a 4-incher (in Canadian inches, no less), but you already have a 2.5. The 10mm that you mention is very cool, too—my LGS has one in the case right now—but I’ve Read that 40S&W ignition is moon clip dependent, and can be problematic. Someone will be along soon to confirm or correct that comment soon, I’m sure.

It’s either that, or go vintage S&W, and keep dry fire down—not because they’re especially fragile, mind, but because parts and good smiths are getting hard to find. Again, JMO, OMMV, etc.

[rd62]

If I were in your situation I'd look at the Ruger GP100 model 1753 from Talo. 3" .357 with Novak sights. I don't have personal experience with this particular one but the GP100 has a proven record and this model seems to fit your preferred requirements and has a lot going for it.

Happy Birthday and welcome to the 40+ club!

[Rick R]

The 10mm that you mention is very cool, too—my LGS has one in the case right now—but I’ve Read that 40S&W ignition is moon clip dependent, and can be problematic. Someone will be along soon to confirm or correct that comment soon, I’m sure.


My 10mm GP100 isn’t happy with .40S&W using either OEM or Ranch Products moonclips. More misfires than actual ignitions. TK makes a thicker 0.040” moonclip just for .40 usage but since I don’t own any .40 guns or stock .40 ammo it isn’t something I concern myself with. It is 100% reliable with moonclipped or loose 10mm ammo. I bought my GP to complement my 10mm SR1911 but it has actually replaced it in the lineup.

In my opinion you can get a better trigger in a S&W but the Rugers are close enough, tougher and user serviceable.

[rd62]

Here's a 1753 on Gunbroker right now.

Ruger GP100 Wiley Clapp model 1753 (https://www.gunbroker.com/item/866886993)

I should have mentioned this is the Wiley Clapp model before. They also have a stainless finish but my personal preference is for the blued. I'd prob bob the hammer and it'd make a hell of a carry gun.

Someone please buy this before I do!

[awp_101]

Basic requirements:
1. Decent trigger or can be made to have one at the end-user level
2. Will hold up to a lot of dry practice. I only shoot 3-400 rounds a month these days, but I dry practice 2-3 times a week
3. 3" barrel. This will not replace my P229 as my carry gun, but I could see it as a hiking gun.
4. Under $1200ish
5. .38 special or larger
6. Aesthetically pleasing (no King Cobra)

1 - GP100 - I’ve done a couple which puts it on the level of riding a bike IMO
2 - GP100
3 - GP100
4 - GP100 with prudent shopping you could get 2 GPs near your $1200 “budget”
5 - GP100 in .357, 10mm/.40 or .44 Special
6 - GP100 but my bias might be showing by this point...

I don’t know the model numbers offhand but I’d be looking at a GP in .357 or 10mm if this was my quest. For me a big advantage is the ability to run a second caliber and the .44 Special doesn’t have that option.

[03RN]

Here's a 1753 on Gunbroker right now.

Ruger GP100 Wiley Clapp model 1753 (https://www.gunbroker.com/item/866886993)

I should have mentioned this is the Wiley Clapp model before. They also have a stainless finish but my personal preference is for the blued. I'd prob bob the hammer and it'd make a hell of a carry gun.

Someone please buy this before I do!

If not the wiley clapp then the 2.75" m66
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/87205724556204

[FrankB]

My son bought a 4” S&W 686 Plus last year, and that’s been nothing bought a joy to shoot. I’m looking at getting the 2.5” version at my LGS tomorrow. They’re all boat anchors, but I’m judging all CCW pistols by the 2 S&W 642’s I bought a couple months ago. That revolver makes my Sig P365 and P938 feel like boat anchors...😳😳😳

P.S. I used to have a Ruger SP101, and it’s trigger assembly was odd for me. I much prefer the S&W internals.

[JTMcC]

The 625 with moon clips will hands down be the fastest to reload and of course a wide variety of good ammo is available. The N-frame is too large for some people to conceal if that's in your future plan, but me and others do it regularly so it depends on the person and what they wear. It's a 40 oz gun in 4". There is a small group of people loading fairly high horsepower .45 auto rim for these guns.

If you can live with .38 spc/.357 mag the L frames can give you 7 rounds, somewhat slower reloads, it's about a 37 oz gun in 3". The 6 shot version in 4" is about a 41 oz gun. A ton of good ammo available in .357 as well and if you reload there's more to be had where current factory ammo leaves off.

I've carried both L & N frame guns (4") for several years now, the 3" is handy, 4" is a sweet spot for magnums concealed.

My K frame experience is well less than other commentors so...
You can't go badly wrong with either Smith or Ruger because if you decide something else is more for you, you'll get your money back out of one bought used. I would stay with the used market unless I was certain of what I wanted, and probably even then if I could find it and hold it before buying.

[Stephanie B]

I've got my 40th birthday coming up next week and I've decided that now is a good time to get into shooting revolvers. Which means I'm revolver shopping and I need some help. My wheelgun experience is limited to SAAs, a 2.5" 629PC, and a 2.5" GP100 (still have that one). I am completely ignorant of the Ruger vs S&W vs Colt comparisons, and equally clueless about revolver maintenance.

Basic requirements:
1. Decent trigger or can be made to have one at the end-user level
2. Will hold up to a lot of dry practice. I only shoot 3-400 rounds a month these days, but I dry practice 2-3 times a week
3. 3" barrel. This will not replace my P229 as my carry gun, but I could see it as a hiking gun.
4. Under $1200ish
5. .38 special or larger
6. Aesthetically pleasing (no King Cobra)

Just from browsing, I'm a big fan of the S&W 625 in 45ACP with a 3" barrel. I see a few "model of 1989" on GB within my budget. I also like what I see from Ruger with the GP100 3" 10mm. I would be interested in a Python if they made a 3", though slightly over budget.

Anything in particular that I should be aware of? Any certain years of production to avoid, or specific models that stand out as exceptional?

Under $1,200 opens you to a 3" S&W Model 65, but if you want current production, the 2.75" Model 66 is a nice gun. If you can tolerate 4", some good deals sometimes arise for Model 64s and Model 10s. Your price range touches the Model 696, those are nice guns. If you reload, maybe a Model 58?

[BehindBlueI's]

Here's a 1753 on Gunbroker right now.

Ruger GP100 Wiley Clapp model 1753 (https://www.gunbroker.com/item/866886993)

I should have mentioned this is the Wiley Clapp model before. They also have a stainless finish but my personal preference is for the blued. I'd prob bob the hammer and it'd make a hell of a carry gun.

Someone please buy this before I do!

I have the blued and really like it and the aesthetics, but if it's possible it'll be pushed into hiking duties I'd go with the stainless.

[TGS]

DocSabo40

From what you wrote, I'd go for either a current production S&W Model 66 2.75", or a Ruger GP100. I'm partial to 38/357, though.

Model 66 2.75" if you see yourself carrying IWB, GP100 for other stuff unless you simply prefer the 66 for whatever reason. The GP100 is a chunky boy.

[DocSabo40]

My 10mm GP100 isn’t happy with .40S&W using either OEM or Ranch Products moonclips. More misfires than actual ignitions. TK makes a thicker 0.040” moonclip just for .40 usage but since I don’t own any .40 guns or stock .40 ammo it isn’t something I concern myself with. It is 100% reliable with moonclipped or loose 10mm ammo. I bought my GP to complement my 10mm SR1911 but it has actually replaced it in the lineup.

In my opinion you can get a better trigger in a S&W but the Rugers are close enough, tougher and user serviceable.

Am I reading that right that you can load the 10mm GP100 without moon clips? Is this unique to the GP100 or can the 625 do this as well?

[Rick R]

Am I reading that right that you can load the 10mm GP100 without moon clips? Is this unique to the GP100 or can the 625 do this as well?

With my GP100, you can load and fire loose 10mm rounds with 100% reliability. Of course the extractor star can’t touch the fired casings but you can easily remove them with the tip of your finger. FWIW, I carry six rounds in a 38/357 speed strip for administrative reloads and have used L frame size Safariland speed loaders to load loose rounds just for grins & chuckles.

My previous S&W 325 would reliably fire loose rounds but they were somewhat harder to extract.

[Borderland]

Am I reading that right that you can load the 10mm GP100 without moon clips? Is this unique to the GP100 or can the 625 do this as well?

My 625-8 will shoot without moon clips. The extractor won't extract the brass but the cases just fall out. I believe it headspaces on the mouth of the case without the moon clip. Don't know about older models, I only have that one.

I have a bunch of older S&W's but I'm not a yuge fan of the newer ones. An older 625 would be my choice. 357 would be a 686 pre dash 6. Don't know anything about Ruger revolvers.

[OlongJohnson]

If I were in your situation I'd look at the Ruger GP100 model 1753 from Talo. 3" .357 with Novak sights. I don't have personal experience with this particular one but the GP100 has a proven record and this model seems to fit your preferred requirements and has a lot going for it.

Happy Birthday and welcome to the 40+ club!

That's a good option.

Don't know why you need a 3-inch when you already have a 2.5-inch. I'd just go GP100 Match Champion. It should balance not too differently from the 3-inch, since it has the short ejector shroud (or half lug) barrel.

IME, you'll have to send it back to the factory to get it fixed, whether you buy a Ruger or an S&W. The difference is that it will be fixed when you get it back from Ruger.

[Half Moon]

My 625-8 will shoot without moon clips. The extractor won't extract the brass but the cases just fall out. I believe it headspaces on the mouth of the case without the moon clip. Don't know about older models, I only have that one.

I have a bunch of older S&W's but I'm not a yuge fan of the newer ones. An older 625 would be my choice. 357 would be a 686 pre dash 6. Don't know anything about Ruger revolvers.

Best of my knowledge all the Smith .45 ACP revolvers, going back to the 1917, can headspace on the case mouth for loose loading in an emergency. The early Colt 1917 chambers by contrast were bored straight through and had to have a moon clip. Never shot the 10 mm Ruger revolvers but have heard some reports of light strike issues without the clips. Then again I've heard other folks say never a problem.

[okie john]

I don’ t know much about Colts, but several models offered by Ruger and S&W can meet all of your requirements as folks have mentioned. That said, here are a few more things to consider.

First is a stainless finish for durability. This rules out some of the older classic models from both makers but both Ruger and Smith are building their best guns ever so I’m not sure you’re losing much for your stated purposes.

I’d also look at a 4” or 4.25” barrel. They’re not hard to conceal and this option lets you consider more models from both makers. Also, many states require a 4” barrel for hunting if you get interested in that.

Adjustable sights offer a better sight picture than most fixed sights, plus they’re a godsend if you fiddle with ammo much. You can upgrade Rugers and Smiths with Bowen Rough-Country sights, plus some folks make high-visibility, heavy-duty fixed sights for them. It’s also easier to add optics to an adjustable-sight gun than to a fixed-sight gun.

A good balance of weight to recoil. Both makers offer models in 44 Magnum and heavier cartridges, but 4” N-frame is about as light as I’d go in 44 Mag and is too light for anything heavier.

With all of your criteria plus all of mine, I’d look at a S&W Model 625 Jerry Mickulek. They offer an ideal power-to-weight ratio and they tend to be very accurate. They have a few peculiarities with regards to ammo but those are easily addressed.

Happy birthday,


Okie John

[paherne]

I chose an MR-88.

[JAH 3rd]

I have a S&W model 13, blue, round butt, 3" heavy barrel. The model 65 is the stainless version of the 13. The only reason this came up on my radar, a friend of mine was an FBI agent back over 35 years ago. It was his issued weapon. The more I thought about the 13, the more sensible having one became. So after a few months.......or weeks of thinking I finally had one. Not too big or small and the 3" barrel is a great option for concealed carry.

One thing to think about is repair in case you get a vintage handgun that the factory no longer supports. And sometimes parts availability is an issue. Lots of good info in this thread. The hardest part may be deciding on what to purchase!

[DocSabo40]

Right off the bat it looks like a stainless 3-4" GP100 .357 with adjustable sights is the smartest choice. But I was never accused of being a smart man, and I like gun browsing, so I'm still looking.

I went to the local shops today and didn't find anything to take home, but I did come away with some observations.

First, triggers. I fondled a few nice looking Smiths (M66, 69, 627). The trigger on my GP100 seemed like a full custom in comparison. I would estimate the S&W triggers were 12-14lb DA, 4-5lb SA. Is this fairly typical of S&W wheelguns? Is a gunsmith the only option to lighten the pull, or can this be a home job for someone of "modest skill"? I'm not looking for 6lb DA, but 10lb would be nice.

Next, adjustable sights would be handy. I do reload, and I enjoy guns that shoot right to POA.

Barrel length. I was considering 3" because it seems like the next size up compared to my 2.5" GP100, but still small enough to conceal. But if I can conceal a 4", I am finding I do like the balance of them better. How are you folks concealing 4" revolvers? AIWB? It seem like the cylinder would preclude traditional IWB, am I wrong?

Lastly, S&W has made a lot of really cool revolvers over the years. I know this is not news to many of you, but as a long-time Glock and SIG shooter, it's really fun looking back through all of the models that have come and gone. I find myself almost getting nostalgic for an era that I never even lived through. Here's two of my favorites from today's browsing. The one on the right is definitely a 629, what is the one on the left?

56357

[Joe in PNG]

Lastly, S&W has made a lot of really cool revolvers over the years. I know this is not news to many of you, but as a long-time Glock and SIG shooter, it's really fun looking back through all of the models that have come and gone. I find myself almost getting nostalgic for an era that I never even lived through. Here's two of my favorites from today's browsing. The one on the right is definitely a 629, what is the one on the left?

56357

My semi-ignorant guess is that it's a Model 21 in .44 Special.

[03RN]

A k frame can definetly be comfortable behind the hip
56362

[gato naranja]

Right off the bat it looks like a stainless 3-4" GP100 .357 with adjustable sights is the smartest choice. But I was never accused of being a smart man, and I like gun browsing, so I'm still looking.

The "rust resistant jack of all trades that can be maintained and slicked by the average crank" might just be the smartest choice.

[Joe in PNG]

If one has a bit of knowledge, counter browsing can be fun and rewarding. But I'm hesitant to buy one online without a chance to check it out first.

So, if I was wanting to just buy one new and unseen, I'd go with a Ruger.

[jtcarm]

Under $1,200 opens you to a 3" S&W Model 65, but if you want current production, the 2.75" Model 66 is a nice gun. If you can tolerate 4", some good deals sometimes arise for Model 64s and Model 10s. Your price range touches the Model 696, those are nice guns. If you reload, maybe a Model 58?

Last I checked, $1,200 opens him up to a 3” M-66, sans hole.

Downside there is the circumcised forcing cone if he plans to shoot lots of magnums.

[DocSabo40]

Last I checked, $1,200 opens him up to a 3” M-66, sans hole.

Downside there is the circumcised forcing cone if he plans to shoot lots of magnums.

One of the local shops I went to had a clean model 66-4 (might have been a -5). I liked the size and the looks, but the trigger was as bad as the worst SIG DA trigger that I've felt. That's all I really have to compare it to. Gritty and 12+lb. The SA was nice. I haven't handled enough older Smiths to know what they normally feel like, but I imagine they don't all feel like that.

I plan to shoot mostly lighter handloads

[Half Moon]

One of the local shops I went to had a clean model 66-4 (might have been a -5). I liked the size and the looks, but the trigger was as bad as the worst SIG DA trigger that I've felt. That's all I really have to compare it to. Gritty and 12+lb. The SA was nice. I haven't handled enough older Smiths to know what they normally feel like, but I imagine they don't all feel like that.

I plan to shoot mostly lighter handloads

Smith DA should be heavy but smooth.

[45dotACP]

The 4" stainless GP100 I have is really good as far as DA triggers go. It's extremely smooth and while it definitely has a different feel than a Smith, it's not worse. Just different.

As far as I know it never had a spring change or action job (bought it used) but it is easier for me to shoot than a S&W.

It's also extremely easy to conceal IWB with the compact grips.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

[Tokarev]

I have the blued and really like it and the aesthetics, but if it's possible it'll be pushed into hiking duties I'd go with the stainless.I like these quite a bit. Aesthetically pleasing. Good sights and nice overall size.

https://ruger.com/products/gp100/specSheets/1752.html

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

[gato naranja]

I like these quite a bit. Aesthetically pleasing. Good sights and nice overall size.

https://ruger.com/products/gp100/specSheets/1752.html

Agreed, but the grips are the full-size "old-style," and my scientific wild-ass guess is that many of those grips will be sitting in drawers after being replaced by the "compact" versions of the same thing. I suffered the tortures of the damned trying to find the perfect GP100 grip and never did find the holy grail, though the compact factory grip at least had the saving grace of being smaller than the rest of the behemoths that always seemed longer than necessary. Full-sized factory grips and Hogues were forever taking up space that something else - my forearm, or my gut, my jacket, the truck's seat, etc - wanted to occupy.

(While it is pure subjectivity, I also preferred the looks of the compact grips on 4" and shorter GP100s, though on a 6" they appeared a tad undernourished.)

I have a somewhat checkered history with Ruger GP100 and S&W 686 revolvers, having bought and sold a lot of them but never keeping them "because autoloaders." I really don't need one, but I have developed another itch and am making plans to pick up a plain-jane 4" stainless GP100 on the cheap, and do nothing else to it but put on an old style factory compact grip (fortuitously, they are back with us as of right now) and maybe a tritium front sight. Utilitarian leather like a Simply Rugged will probably be all I will need for a holster. Basically a somewhat heavy "fun gun," but one that would be simple point and pull, with enough reliability and horsepower to do what has to be done come what may.

[Guerrero]

If I were in your situation I'd look at the Ruger GP100 model 1753 from Talo. 3" .357 with Novak sights. I don't have personal experience with this particular one but the GP100 has a proven record and this model seems to fit your preferred requirements and has a lot going for it.

Happy Birthday and welcome to the 40+ club!

That's the one I went with (the stainless version) for all the reasons listed by ithers.

[jandbj]

My 47th birthday present to myself.

Hoping to shoot it tomorrow. Not sure I’ll keep the laser grips.

[Totem Polar]

Basic requirements:
1. Decent trigger or can be made to have one at the end-user level
2. Will hold up to a lot of dry practice. I only shoot 3-400 rounds a month these days, but I dry practice 2-3 times a week
3. 3" barrel. This will not replace my P229 as my carry gun, but I could see it as a hiking gun.
4. Under $1200ish
5. .38 special or larger
6. Aesthetically pleasing (no King Cobra)


It might be time to quit clowning around, and put this thread to bed, Doc.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?43383-Smith-amp-Wesson-65-3-3%94

Be sure to get the uncle mikes boot grips with it.

:)

[Lex Luthier]

It might be time to quit clowning around, and put this thread to bed, Doc.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?43383-Smith-amp-Wesson-65-3-3%94

Be sure to get the uncle mikes boot grips with it.

:)

Somebody got a wonderful deal.

[parishioner]

It might be time to quit clowning around, and put this thread to bed, Doc.

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?43383-Smith-amp-Wesson-65-3-3%94

Be sure to get the uncle mikes boot grips with it.

:)

Is S&W that tone deaf? The g19 of wheelies. They must hate money.

Congrats to the buyer

[Stephanie B]

Somebody got a wonderful deal.

Indeed.

S&W ought to bring them out again. (Make the front sight replaceable if you do, guys.)

OTOH, the 66-8 that 03RN has is a sweet revolver.

[03RN]

Indeed.

S&W ought to bring them out again. (Make the front sight replaceable if you do, guys.)

OTOH, the 66-8 that 03RN has is a sweet revolver.

Thanks

I like to think of it as a m65 with better sights

I wish the night guard series would be a cataloged item and with a 3" barrel