Anyone replace a Central AC system recently?

[JohnO]

My system gave up the ghost. The compressor is 30 years old and the A-Coil is older. It ran fine last summer. This year the compressor wouldn't start. A new start & run capacitor got it running but the lines didn't get cold. I checked the refrigerant (R-22) charge and nothing is there, poof it's gone, all of it. R-22 is going for $100 - $125 a pound and my compressor alone is 10 Lbs. 10 oz. Morta!

I just got my first estimate. Tough this time of the year to get anyone to come out and any actual replacement I was told will be 5+ weeks out.

No clue yet about where this estimate landed between Good Price - Rip Off? Appears reasonable to me.

Through Costco a HVAC contractor came out.
Lennox EL16CX1042230 Elite
Series 16 SEER 3.5 ton single
stage condenser, CX3548C Cased
coil, I-Comfort M30 wifi
thermostat, line-set.

Replace existing add-on air conditioning system on existing
furnace with high efficiency single stage condenser with
cased coil add-on air conditioning system. Install I-Comfort
wifi thermostat.

Controls and Electrical:
Thermostat I-Comfort M30 wifi
Power and Control Wiring
Reconnect to Existing
Air Distribution: All necessary duct modifications
Piping: Complete condensate piping, Condensate pump, Complete refrigerant piping
Miscellaneous:
Removal of existing equipment Condenser, coil, line-set, humidifier
Pre-cast composite pad for condensing unit 1 Composite
Complete starting and testing of system
Tax and permit included
$9.5K

[RevolverRob]

I'd get a separate estimate. I'd look for someone independent - preferably someone who installs BDP-Carrier regularly (independent licensed contractors will install a wide range of equipment). Payne and Day & Night (the D and P in BDP) are usually cheaper than the equivalent Carrier or Bryant unit, with similar quality. The only real difference is if the compressor is made in the US or Mexico (and even then, some BDP units, use a US made compressor). The equipment will likely be cheaper than Lennox.

A small business guy, who works by the job, not be commission from Lennox (like the Costco folks do), will likely get to you faster and come in at the same price or slightly lower.

I can't say what the prices should be anymore, but in general 7.5-10k, depending on size of the unit and complexity of the install seems reasonable.

[blues]

Last year I had a 20 year old Trane system, AC and Furnace replaced, (catastrophic failure at the coil indoors), with a dual fuel system...14 SEER American Standard Heat Pump, a 97% efficient Goodman LP Furnace, condensate pump, wireless thermostat, etc etc for just under $7500 installed.

Obviously, rates in western NC are different than CT. But just to put things in perspective a bit.

I just had them out this morning to do an annual inspection, as it will be a year at the end of June.

Owner spent two hours making sure everything was shipshape. Everything is running swimmingly and I'm saving money on my utilities each month.

[NEPAKevin]

FWIW, a lot of people around here seem to be going with the ductless wall units? We had the central air at work replaced last year, maybe the year before, but its a roof mount that both cools and heats, so apples and oranges.

[JohnO]

I've got 4 estimates pending. 2 are larger local HVAC shops. One is the small shop guy who put a central AC system in my mother-in-law's house 2 years ago. Finally a co-worker just recommended a guy he knows who went to school with his son. He does mainly commercial work and residential on the side. He lives in town. My co-worker gave him my contact info and said I should hear from him tonight.

I just found an energy rebate available through my electric utility of $200 for qualifying 16+ SEER systems. It's not much but it's something.

My old system is a Trane XL1200 manufactured in 1/90. The A-coil is older and a Rheem. They don't owe my anything as they are well beyond their expected lifespan.

I've been using an undercoat rake on my two German Shepherd Dogs everyday. They don't appreciate the heat with their thick coats. Cold they love, heat nope! If we get a heat wave without AC I might just have to purchase a window AC unit for them. If your not familiar with CT summer heat waves your lucky. In the neighborhood of 90 -100+ F with 90+% relative humidity.

[Crow Hunter]

I'd get a separate estimate. I'd look for someone independent - preferably someone who installs BDP-Carrier regularly (independent licensed contractors will install a wide range of equipment). Payne and Day & Night (the D and P in BDP) are usually cheaper than the equivalent Carrier or Bryant unit, with similar quality. The only real difference is if the compressor is made in the US or Mexico (and even then, some BDP units, use a US made compressor). The equipment will likely be cheaper than Lennox.

A small business guy, who works by the job, not be commission from Lennox (like the Costco folks do), will likely get to you faster and come in at the same price or slightly lower.

I can't say what the prices should be anymore, but in general 7.5-10k, depending on size of the unit and complexity of the install seems reasonable.

This^.

Get at least 3 quotes and make sure they do a Manual J calculation. Just because your unit was a 3.5 ton doesn't mean it is supposed to be one.

I had mine replaced several years ago. Being an engineer and the fact that fluid thermal systems design was my favorite class by far, I knew my system was oversized (part of the reason my house was uncomfortable and sometimes smelly), so I asked 4 different companies to come in and quote and requested a Manual J.

Only 1 of the 4 actually did the calculation and showed me the numbers. The others said they did and were going to just replace the unit with a similar one. None of them knew I was a Mechanical Engineer and had already done the calculations myself and I knew the system was too big. That guy was the owner of an independent HVAC company. He did the quote and offered me several different options and I picked out the one that I preferred. He told me his preferences and which companies gave him the best prices and was upfront that he would sell several brands cheaper than the other because of his affiliation but would be happy to sell others if I wanted. Of course, he was the guy that got my business.

Making sure you have the correctly sized unit is very important. Humidity is a HUGE component in comfort and having a system that is too big can have a significant affect on this. Bigger is absolutely NOT better and a lot of contractors are bad about assuming this is true.

Also make sure you do some research into compressor designs used in the system you are looking at. That is really important to longevity.

[rayrevolver]

I have 2 heat pumps. The bigger one is getting old and I had some estimates for replacement. The first time around there was a big discount from Rheem. The numbers below are "free" furnace numbers and a rebate from my local electrical company. But the numbers were close to these below.

3 Ton Heat Pump, Gas Furnace

Gucci Setup, 20 Seer
Rheem, Variable Speed Heat Pump
2 Stage Variable Speed Propane Furnace, 96% AFUE
$12.2k


Middle, 16 Seer
Rheen, 2 stage pump
2 Stage Variable Speed Propane Furnace, 96% AFUE
$9.6K


Low, 14 Seer
Rheem single stage heat pump
Single stage furnace
$8.2k


These are installed, and include the addition of a new 20x20 intake on the ground floor, plus Wifi smart thermostat.

[RevolverRob]

I just caught it - that estimate does not include the replacement of the air handler/furnace only the coil and condensing unit?

If so, that is way too high.

A complete system, includes he condensing unit, coil, and air handler (be it a furnace or air handler) and should run in the $7.5-10k range.

A condensing unit and coil replacement alone, assuming the furnace/air handler is considerably newer, should run in the $5-6k range (in my opinion).

The cost of replacing the refrigeration lines does add in to the overall cost. It's best to do it, if it's not a significant hurdle (i.e., if the old lines are not buried behind a brick exterior wall, like many are). Alternatively, if it is a significant hurdle, the lines can be flushed with nitrogen (and there are some commercial "flushes" that I don't know much about) and reused with the new refrigerant. When we began converting folks over to 410A back circa 2008-9'ish, lineset replacement was the standard, but a nitrogen flush of the lineset was an acceptable alternative.

[JohnO]

I just caught it - that estimate does not include the replacement of the air handler/furnace only the coil and condensing unit?

If so, that is way too high.

A complete system, includes he condensing unit, coil, and air handler (be it a furnace or air handler) and should run in the $7.5-10k range.

A condensing unit and coil replacement alone, assuming the furnace/air handler is considerably newer, should run in the $5-6k range (in my opinion).

The cost of replacing the refrigeration lines does add in to the overall cost. It's best to do it, if it's not a significant hurdle (i.e., if the old lines are not buried behind a brick exterior wall, like many are). Alternatively, if it is a significant hurdle, the lines can be flushed with nitrogen (and there are some commercial "flushes" that I don't know much about) and reused with the new refrigerant. When we began converting folks over to 410A back circa 2008-9'ish, lineset replacement was the standard, but a nitrogen flush of the lineset was an acceptable alternative.

I asked the guy who gave me the current estimate about reusing the existing lineset. He said the old lineset could contaminate the new system as the oils in R-22 vs R-410A are not compatible.

I noted that the proposal I received has a warranty that requires I pay them for yearly maintenance. No one but me has touched my current system for the last 20+ years and I don't really need to pay someone to clean the coils. I've troubleshot bad relays and bad caps. Now I have a gauge set.

[rayrevolver]

Also make sure you do some research into compressor designs used in the system you are looking at. That is really important to longevity.

Enlighten us! I did the usual research (engineer here, can be prone to analysis paralysis when it comes to things I am unfamiliar with) and had a few companies on the short list. Rheem was not on that list. My smaller unit is a Lennox and those seem to be the high dollar option but I am hoping it lasts another 10 years.

I use a local company for check ups. All they sell is Rheem, so that is the quote I have. I do need to get another company to get me an estimate.

For what its worth, the wifes townhouse has a high dollar Carrier. Every 2 years we have replaced the fan motor, so on average it has been $1000 every 2 years. When it started the system was 10 years old. It sucks and it has me soured me on Carrier a little bit.

I am open to suggestions and here to learn.

Of the options above, at a minimum we would pick the middle, but leaning towards the higher SEER system... because Gucci. If I have to replace both systems at the same time, it would probably be middle option for both.

[Crow Hunter]

Enlighten us! I did the usual research (engineer here, can be prone to analysis paralysis when it comes to things I am unfamiliar with) and had a few companies on the short list. Rheem was not on that list. My smaller unit is a Lennox and those seem to be the high dollar option but I am hoping it lasts another 10 years.

I use a local company for check ups. All they sell is Rheem, so that is the quote I have. I do need to get another company to get me an estimate.

For what its worth, the wifes townhouse has a high dollar Carrier. Every 2 years we have replaced the fan motor, so on average it has been $1000 every 2 years. When it started the system was 10 years old. It sucks and it has me soured me on Carrier a little bit.

I am open to suggestions and here to learn.

Of the options above, at a minimum we would pick the middle, but leaning towards the higher SEER system... because Gucci. If I have to replace both systems at the same time, it would probably be middle option for both.

I honestly don't remember enough about it to talk intelligently about it but I also tend to over investigate/analyze. I vaguely remember two stage scroll compressors being superior to the others when I was researching.

I went with the Lennox system myself and it revolved around the compressor design but honestly I don't remember the details and since it isn't something I work with every day, it didn't really "stick" in my head. I do remember that Carrier was higher on my list until I did the research and chose Lennox over the Carrier (also suggested by my installer and he got discounts on both). I also vaguely remember that Trane was originally my preference and I think it was related to the compressor design.

I do remember that usually the highest SEER rated units were not the best buy and the lowest usually had the lower quality compressor designs. I also had to go with an all electric Heat Pump Package unit because of the area (no gas/propane) so I also was limited in what I could buy. Since it uses the compressors both heating and cooling the designs were slightly different IIRC.


Man, I am sorry, I have slept several times since then and I can't really recall (and I threw away all my notes).:(

[Guerrero]

JohnO, I just replaced my central air two weeks ago. Got a Carrier two-stage unit for an about 1700 sq. ft. house. $6.5k installed. New furnace last year, so I already had a new blower unit, UV light, humidifier, and smart 'stat.

I can get model numbers and details if you want.

[JohnO]

Regarding SEER ratings. What I’ve heard higher SEER units can be more problematic specifically the ones that are the highest rated. For CT with a cooling season of typically May - September and definitely not 100% during those months the higher SEER units don’t get used enough to justify the price.

[blues]

Regarding SEER ratings. What I’ve heard higher SEER units can be more problematic specifically the ones that are the highest rated. For CT with a cooling season of typically May - September and definitely not 100% during those months the higher SEER units don’t get used enough to justify the price.

Have a look at this article...it's one of several I've read that provide some info about SEER ratings...and it's pretty down to earth.


https://asm-air.com/airconditioning/what-is-a-good-seer-rating/



FWIW, even with my 14 SEER Carrier Heat Pump, I come in on average about 25-33% below the most efficient comparable homes in my area built in the same time frame, with the same size and types of devices according to Duke Energy.

I get a monthly report from them on how my electric usage compares with about 1500 other homes in the area that are considered comparable.

I run an efficient Goodman LP furnace when the heat pump can't keep up during those rare brutally cold days. I use a lot less propane now than when I had to rely on the furnace all the time in years past.

[JohnO]

JohnO, I just replaced my central air two weeks ago. Got a Carrier two-stage unit for an about 1700 sq. ft. house. $6.5k installed. New furnace last year, so I already had a new blower unit, UV light, humidifier, and smart 'stat.

I can get model numbers and details if you want.

Thanks! I appreciate the offer. For the moment I’m going to get more info myself. My neighbor had a Goodman system installed a few years back. Their house size is similar and they said that they will find the paperwork with the details.

Once I have a few estimates in hand I’ll feel more comfortable. Pricing especially labor here is top dollar. Living here isn’t cheap.

[Guerrero]

This was our quote:

MODELS
Carrier

24ACB736A003

-Performance Series
-Air Conditioner
-Two Stage
-Sound level as low as 72 dBA

-10-year parts limited warranty
-Warranty period is 5 years if not registered within 90 days

Carrier

Carrier Evaporator Coil 3 Ton


Net Investment $6,314


INCLUDED SERVICES:

DUCTWORK MODIFICATIONS
SET NEW AIR CONDITIONER PAD
LOW VOLTAGE WIRING
CHECK SYSTEM OPERATION
10 YEAR PARTS AND 1 YEAR LABOR WARRANTY
REMOVE AND DISPOSE OLD EQUIPMENT
REFRIGERATION LINESET
CONDENSATE PIPING
CLEAN AND SWEEP UP AFTER OURSELVES
ONE YEAR 100% SATISFACTION GUARANTEE

[JohnO]

Thanks Guerrero. I doubt my .5 ton more capacity and single stage condenser (should be cheaper) justifies $3K+ more.

[UNK]

Along with higher SEER you also get higher technology which is more expensive to replace. I try to stay away from anything with a variable frequency drive (VFD).
Another not often mentioned device is a whole house surge supressor.
If you have a surface mount panel mount it on the wall next to your panel so you can see the indicator lights. If not it will have to be inside your panel.
Every surge damages electrical devices whether motors or electronics and it happens more often than you think. While a surge may not cause immediate failure it will cause premature failure over time.
These are disposable units. As in once they have absorbed a charge that renders them inoperable they will need to be replaced.

[Jim Watson]

Replacement for leaking evaporator coil (second time) due to arrive tomorrow; don't know when they will schedule installation. Including a board in the electronics.
House is 9 years old, have thus far replaced the compressor (on warranty), now two evaporators, a condenser fan motor just a couple of months ago.
Only remaining original parts are condenser coil and air handler blower.

[Oldherkpilot]

I just caught it - that estimate does not include the replacement of the air handler/furnace only the coil and condensing unit?

If so, that is way too high.

A complete system, includes he condensing unit, coil, and air handler (be it a furnace or air handler) and should run in the $7.5-10k range.

A condensing unit and coil replacement alone, assuming the furnace/air handler is considerably newer, should run in the $5-6k range (in my opinion).

The cost of replacing the refrigeration lines does add in to the overall cost. It's best to do it, if it's not a significant hurdle (i.e., if the old lines are not buried behind a brick exterior wall, like many are). Alternatively, if it is a significant hurdle, the lines can be flushed with nitrogen (and there are some commercial "flushes" that I don't know much about) and reused with the new refrigerant. When we began converting folks over to 410A back circa 2008-9'ish, lineset replacement was the standard, but a nitrogen flush of the lineset was an acceptable alternative.

I concur with RR. I've been helping a buddies widow with some stuff and she just got estimates for a new ac unit and furnace. $8k was the middle bid. Here in NE Ohio that seems to be the norm.

[blues]

Replacement for leaking evaporator coil (second time) due to arrive tomorrow; don't know when they will schedule installation. Including a board in the electronics.
House is 9 years old, have thus far replaced the compressor (on warranty), now two evaporators, a condenser fan motor just a couple of months ago.
Only remaining original parts are condenser coil and air handler blower.

Our old Trane had near 20 years of flawless service. Blew a capacitor once during a lightning storm...same for a circuit board.

[UNK]

Our old Trane had near 20 years of flawless service. Blew a capacitor once during a lightning storm...same for a circuit board.

Ive got you beat. My ac unit was a carrier and was over 40 years old when replaced. The gas furnace was not quite as old, had cast burners in it and still working great. If the coils would have fit for the new heat pump I would have kept the old furnace.

[willie]

Don't overlook Better Business Bureau complaints. Clues are found in how companies resolve them. Do you gave a plumber or electrician? Folks in the trades often know about others' reliability. We have a contractor who posts here. Maybe he will chime in.

Low bid is not always the best value. Sometimes we get what we pay for. Hence checking references is a good idea. Your insurance company will be a good source. Talk to an office manager/secretary for the scoop. Drive by and go in.

[NH Shooter]

FWIW, a lot of people around here seem to be going with the ductless wall units?

Our home has hot water heat and our "AC system" consisted of window units. As we all know, window units suck for the most part.

I just finished installing a 3-zone LG split-ductless system, 34,000 BTUs total. I did the entire install myself, took me a month of weekends. I had a certified HVAC guy do the commissioning (pressure test with nitrogen, evacuation and release of refrigerant into system).

Coming from noisy window shakers, this system is quiet as can be (indoor units 27db, much quieter than the typical central air system) and is rated at 21 SEER. I paid $4k for the LG equipment (two 9,000 BTU and one 15,000 BTU indoor units, one 36,000 BTU outdoor unit) and about another $1,200 for the rest of the needed supplies and the commissioning. If I had paid a contractor for the entire install, it would have been in the $10k range and I doubt they would have taken the time and care I did with it.

The most challenging part of a split ductless install is running the refrigerant lines, condensate drain lines and electrical interconnect cables from the indoor units to the outdoor compressor. I opened up sheet rock to run them in interior walls, pulled back carpet and cut the sub flooring to conceal as much of it as possible, which minimized the exterior runs (the condensate drains terminate as soon as they pass through the exterior wall). Once outside I used RectorSeal Fortress to run the lines through to the compressor, then painted it the same color as the siding;

https://i.ibb.co/0qc6wCZ/lg-1.jpg


The two 9k units are in second floor bedrooms, the 15k unit is in the first floor family room. The three keep both floors of our 2,200 square foot home very dry and comfortable. Best of all, the system is essentially inaudible and visually unobtrusive.

[ranger]

I have a 10 year old AC unit I just replaced. My 2 cents.

I believe that AC units now are disposable. A service call seems to be $200 to $500 per visit with Freon. My house is 2 stories and I have 2 units - one for bottom floor and one for top floor. I got quotes from basic replacement to multiple "better" and "best" options. My old units used the newer Freon so no issues reusing lines. I bought the cheapest option for about $3900 for inside and outside AC modules but reusing the existing gas heat module and all ductwork. They were in and out in 4 hours. I got cash and military discounts.

I assume that I will replace this AC unit in 10 years when warranty expires.

I suggest getting multiple quotes but lean toward using a small family shop that has been around for a while. In my opinion, the bigger shops are flashy, etc. but have a lot of turnover with techs.

[JohnO]

I got an acceptable estimate yesterday and I'm going with it.

3.5 Ton Trane system installed for $5350.

I'm going with the contractor who put a Trane system in my mother-in-laws house. He came recommended to her and did a nice job on a full AC system including duct work.

This morning I removed the old A-coil, and condenser unit. The R-22 was completely gone so no need to reclaim. I just need to remove the old line set. I told the contractor he is going to have a clean slate to work with in hopes he can squeeze in my job sooner.

[Guerrero]

^^^^^That sounds much more reasonable.

FYI, we turned on our air for the first time today. The new unit is soooooo much quieter than the old one. We can actually sit outside near it and have a conversation without shouting.

[MGW]

Must be the year for this. We came back home Sunday to find that our AC had quit too. It’s a heat pump and 14 years old. Compressor is done. Going to be a complete system replacement including air handler and aux heat, a few updates to the return air and ductwork, and moving the main outside unit to a better location. It’s going to be expensive. It’s going to put a hold on the remodel we just started too.

[MGW]

I'm in a similar situation. Blank slate install of a new heat pump and air handler with electric aux heat. The air handler is being replaced and moved to a cabinet in the main house instead of in the attic where the current air handler is. Outside unit being moved to a better location outside. I have three bids so far. I have another contractor coming out this morning. Living in central Kansas heat pumps are not ideal in the winter but we are total electric and heat pumps seems like the best option for us. We have to run auxiliary heat a lot with our current system but the HP was 14 years old and the inside system was at least 25 years old.

The first bid is incomplete. It was from a guy that does HVAC on the commercial side and had been moonlighting his own business for the last 20 years for residential. No specs on the unit other than it's Tempstar. The unit without labor was quoted at $9,250. Yikes.

Bid two is from a small contractor for a York system. I have been told to avoid York by a couple of different commercial contractors. The bid is for everything except moving the electric to the new locations. 3 ton, 14 seer, single-stage air handler with ECM motor, 3-ton coil, and new thermostat. All labor included. $7,224.25. 10 Year warranty on parts and compressor.

Bid three from the same contractor as bid two except it's an LG system. The contractor states "LG comes with a 12-year compressor and parts warranty. High efficient 18 SEER for air handler unit. Will heat as a heat pump down to -4 degrees. Top of the line system and I put a lot in. The outdoor unit will feed the power to the indoor. Will need power for back up heat kit only for indoor. Price $9,747.06.

I like the sounds of what the LG claims it will do but I really can't back it up with any research that I have found. The price seems high but for all the work we're doing maybe not. For comparison by parents just had a new complete system installed. Central AC with gas heat, ductwork and all, was almost $15,000. Similar sized house but I do not know the specs on their system.

I'm waiting to hear from this last contractor before I make a decision. I understand construction but I'm in a little over my head on HVAC. I was expecting to pay between $6-$8,000. What I am getting so far seems overly expensive. The shitty part is I would like to sell this house in about 3 years.

I would appreciate some input here.

[ranger]

I'm in a similar situation. Blank slate install of a new heat pump and air handler with electric aux heat. The air handler is being replaced and moved to a cabinet in the main house instead of in the attic where the current air handler is. Outside unit being moved to a better location outside. I have three bids so far. I have another contractor coming out this morning. Living in central Kansas heat pumps are not ideal in the winter but we are total electric and heat pumps seems like the best option for us. We have to run auxiliary heat a lot with our current system but the HP was 14 years old and the inside system was at least 25 years old.

The first bid is incomplete. It was from a guy that does HVAC on the commercial side and had been moonlighting his own business for the last 20 years for residential. No specs on the unit other than it's Tempstar. The unit without labor was quoted at $9,250. Yikes.

Bid two is from a small contractor for a York system. I have been told to avoid York by a couple of different commercial contractors. The bid is for everything except moving the electric to the new locations. 3 ton, 14 seer, single-stage air handler with ECM motor, 3-ton coil, and new thermostat. All labor included. $7,224.25. 10 Year warranty on parts and compressor.

Bid three from the same contractor as bid two except it's an LG system. The contractor states "LG comes with a 12-year compressor and parts warranty. High efficient 18 SEER for air handler unit. Will heat as a heat pump down to -4 degrees. Top of the line system and I put a lot in. The outdoor unit will feed the power to the indoor. Will need power for back up heat kit only for indoor. Price $9,747.06.

I like the sounds of what the LG claims it will do but I really can't back it up with any research that I have found. The price seems high but for all the work we're doing maybe not. For comparison by parents just had a new complete system installed. Central AC with gas heat, ductwork and all, was almost $15,000. Similar sized house but I do not know the specs on their system.

I'm waiting to hear from this last contractor before I make a decision. I understand construction but I'm in a little over my head on HVAC. I was expecting to pay between $6-$8,000. What I am getting so far seems overly expensive. The shitty part is I would like to sell this house in about 3 years.

I would appreciate some input here.

If I was selling in 3 years, I would no do the relocations and upgrades. I would replace with the 2020 version of what you have now and rock on for 3 years.

[MGW]

If I was selling in 3 years, I would no do the relocations and upgrades. I would replace with the 2020 version of what you have now and rock on for 3 years.

I’ve thought about that. The old air handler is in pretty bad shape and needs replaced. The relocation is fairly easy because it uses the existing main trunk. I think I could save $500 or so if I didn’t move it but I’ve been told by three contractors now that it has to go regardless. The main unit move is going to cost about $500 including electrical work.

I’m waiting on the bid from this morning. At this point it’s really down to the LG unit or the Bryant. Just seems like a lot of money.

[Jim Watson]

Compressor started fading last week, making expensive noises.
I splurged on a whole new condenser unit, $3450 yesterday.
All new except blower and thermostat in the past month.

[JohnO]

New 3.5 Ton Trane system installed and running right before the 4th. Glorious AC back again.