Another S&W 340 thread

[rm06]

I tried one of these yesterday at the local shop, just fingerbanging and dry firing, good heavens, I didn't know a real gun could be so light. I didn't find the factory trigger objectionable at all, I carried and practiced with an unmodified 642-1 for years which I sold in a moment of weakness.

We all dig range toys and I have a few but I've been paring them down over the years, I like practical guns better. I have been on the fence for a new EDC for literally years, I waffle back and forth between another J frame and something sexier like the new P365 XL or even one of the Kahr mini 9mm's - that capacity thing always gets me. But I really like wheel guns and this may be the game changer, I haven't been able to stop thinking about it.

Do people really fire .357s through these? I imagine some quality +P ammo is what the doctor ordered, how are the factory sights regulated? Lighter or heavier projectiles? I know there are many threads here which I will continue to dig into.

The elephant in the room - price. Is the juice worth the squeeze?

[blues]

The elephant in the room - price. Is the juice worth the squeeze?

It's pretty much the only reason I don't own one.

I'd be paying the premium simply for the better front sight versus the painted version on my 642-1...and for my limited use for the J, it's been enough to hold me back. If the J played a bigger role in my plans, perhaps the extra cost would be justifiable.

[23JAZ]

I tried one of these yesterday at the local shop, just fingerbanging and dry firing, good heavens, I didn't know a real gun could be so light. I didn't find the factory trigger objectionable at all, I carried and practiced with an unmodified 642-1 for years which I sold in a moment of weakness.

We all dig range toys and I have a few but I've been paring them down over the years, I like practical guns better. I have been on the fence for a new EDC for literally years, I waffle back and forth between another J frame and something sexier like the new P365 XL or even one of the Kahr mini 9mm's - that capacity thing always gets me. But I really like wheel guns and this may be the game changer, I haven't been able to stop thinking about it.

Do people really fire .357s through these? I imagine some quality +P ammo is what the doctor ordered, how are the factory sights regulated? Lighter or heavier projectiles? I know there are many threads here which I will continue to dig into.

The elephant in the room - price. Is the juice worth the squeeze?

For me is was a hard yes. I love the front sight and the option to shoot 357. But I did look around for a year before I found a new one in the low $600 range before I could talk myself into spending the extra money. Also I do carry it often. It’s my NPE gun and I’m in an NPE Monday through Friday so it spends a lot of time with me.

[LtDave]

There is no good reason to shoot .357 ammo through one of these super light J frames. The Ti cylindered guns are perfect for pocket carry and that is the best use case for one of these. If you want a general purpose J frame, I think you are better off with a 642 or 442 air weight for a whole lot less money. This is from a guy with a 342PD, a couple of 342Ti's and a whole slew of air weights of various models. The two J frames I keep loaded and ready to go are a 342Ti and a 642 Pro.

[Blades]

We all dig range toys and I have a few but I've been paring them down over the years, I like practical guns better.



I want a .357 and am trying to decide between an S&W air weight or a 7 rounder or maybe an LCR?. I may never fire .357 out of an air weight but like the option if needed. Or forget it and buy a Gen 5 Glock 26.
I'm trying to get practical guns but it's hard.

[blues]

I want a .357 and am trying to decide between an S&W air weight or a 7 rounder or maybe an LCR?. I may never fire .357 out of an air weight but like the option if needed. Or forget it and buy a Gen 5 Glock 26.
I'm trying to get practical guns but it's hard.

If you don't already have a 26, I'd highly recommend that "first" but it really depends on what you need.

You can pretty much get a G26 and 642-1 for the price of an M&P 340. Food for thought.

[GearFondler]

I've fired full power 125gr 357 from a 340 just to try it. I am not recoil sensitive and have a good grip and it was not painful so much as it was just brutal, if that makes sense... I could definitely deal with it but one handed splits could practically be timed with an hourglass.

[LtDave]

I've fired full power 125gr 357 from a 340 just to try it. I am not recoil sensitive and have a good grip and it was not painful so much as it was just brutal, if that makes sense... I could definitely deal with it but one handed splits could practically be timed with an hourglass.

Brutal would be my description as well. I shot some 180 gr .357 magnum factory and reloads out of a 640 Pro trying to find a load that would regulate to the sights. They weren't intolerable in the steel framed gun.

[Blades]

If you don't already have a 26, I'd highly recommend that "first" but it really depends on what you need.

You can pretty much get a G26 and 642-1 for the price of an M&P 340. Food for thought.

I've been reading the G26 Gen 5 thread and it has me considering one. I don't need one but it may be useful when my G19 is a bit too big. I'm selling my G29 so I "need" something to replace it. I wanted a shotgun for 3 Gun but who knows if I'll ever be able to participate in 3 Gun again.

[blues]

I've been reading the G26 Gen 5 thread and it has me considering one. I don't need one but it may be useful when my G19 is a bit too big. I'm selling my G29 so I "need" something to replace it. I wanted a shotgun for 3 Gun but who knows if I'll ever be able to participate in 3 Gun again.

I've had a G19 since 1988 but my G26 (since 1995) has been my most carried Glock by far, on and off duty, and especially since retirement. I don't think you'd be disappointed. And as I say, you can add a 642-1 and still not spend much more than the M&P. Not that I'd try to twist your arm. ;)

[JAH 3rd]

I have the above referenced revolver.....titanium cylinder, scandium frame. It has the red ramp front sight. I hated paying what I did for it. Like others have said, you could have gotten two for the price of this one. For me the weight savings over the course of the day adds up. So I am glad I purchased it.

For fun I shot a cylinder of Speer Gold Dot and Winchester Silvertip ammo. The Gold Dot felt like a medium load compared to the Silvertip. The Silvertip was down right brutal.

I carry Winchester Ranger 130gr JHP in .38. It's acceptable in recoil. I am going to get a box of wadcutters and see how the revolver does with that. Seems like that is an option as others have opined.

https://www.personaldefenseworld.com/2018/02/smith-wesson-mp340-review-revolver/

[rm06]

There is no good reason to shoot .357 ammo through one of these super light J frames. The Ti cylindered guns are perfect for pocket carry and that is the best use case for one of these.

I have purpose made .357s, those only eat .357s unless my daughter is shooting one. I know the 340 will handle it and you could perhaps see a performance increase ballistically with short barrel specific .357 ammo but I would think whatever small gain would be overshadowed by excessive flash, blast and recoil. 38 +P is perfectly fine with me, thanks.

Insanely lightweight pocket carry is goal here while still being reasonably armed.

[rm06]

I have the above referenced revolver.....titanium cylinder, scandium frame. It has the red ramp front sight. I hated paying what I did for it. Like others have said, you could have gotten two for the price of this one. For me the weight savings over the course of the day adds up. So I am glad I purchased it.

For fun I shot a cylinder of Speer Gold Dot and Winchester Silvertip ammo. The Gold Dot felt like a medium load compared to the Silvertip. The Silvertip was down right brutal.

I carry Winchester Ranger 130gr JHP in .38. It's acceptable in recoil. I am going to get a box of wadcutters and see how the revolver does with that. Seems like that is an option as others have opined.

https://www.personaldefenseworld.com/2018/02/smith-wesson-mp340-review-revolver/

Thanks for the link!

[UNK]

I tried one of these yesterday at the local shop, just fingerbanging and dry firing, good heavens, I didn't know a real gun could be so light. I didn't find the factory trigger objectionable at all, I carried and practiced with an unmodified 642-1 for years which I sold in a moment of weakness.

We all dig range toys and I have a few but I've been paring them down over the years, I like practical guns better. I have been on the fence for a new EDC for literally years, I waffle back and forth between another J frame and something sexier like the new P365 XL or even one of the Kahr mini 9mm's - that capacity thing always gets me. But I really like wheel guns and this may be the game changer, I haven't been able to stop thinking about it.

Do people really fire .357s through these? I imagine some quality +P ammo is what the doctor ordered, how are the factory sights regulated? Lighter or heavier projectiles? I know there are many threads here which I will continue to dig into.

The elephant in the room - price. Is the juice worth the squeeze?

The best thing to do is try to shoot them side by side at a rental range if you can find one. I think the difference in sights makes it worth it. I have the big dot model with the steel cylinder and a no lock 642. The notch in the 642 is minuscule
to me it comes dow to the shooters eyesight.

[Zeke38]

I will echo UNKs post with a twist. I used to carry a 642-1 until two years ago when the sights just would not pop into view for me quick enough. Young people see them better, quicker. I had a chance to purchase a 2" DAO Kimber w/night sights. (Read that as big blocky, fast to pickup and orient sights) at a very decent price. It's a belt gun, but a small belt gun. 6 rounds and handles the 357 in recoil akin to a SP101 Ruger. Fits in a J frame holster.

Just a thought. I've fired the 340 with the FO front sight with 145 Silvertips at a silhouette on a police range at 50 yards. A lot of sweatin, holdin, and squeezin but all 5 went into 8 ring and above, but "brutal" is a logical term for the recoil.

I'll pay the penalty and carry the weight. BTW the 340 action wasn't even close to the K6.

[UNK]

The best thing to do is try to shoot them side by side at a rental range if you can find one. I think the difference in sights makes it worth it. I have the big dot model with the steel cylinder and a no lock 642. The notch in the 642 is minuscule
to me it comes dow to the shooters eyesight.

Ill also add I used to have the titanium cylinder. Its finish is more delicate and requires special care. If the extra weight to you is worth it then its worth it.
If I were going to go that route again Id probably buy something else for practice and carry the ti/scandium model.

[Guerrero]

From what I understand, the M&P 340 has a stainless cylinder, while the 340 PD has the titanium cylinder.

[TC215]

I'm a big fan of the M&P340. I carried mine as a BUG at work for 12 years. For me, the sights were worth the extra expense, although I bought mine at the LE price. I don't really care about the ability to fire .357, and haven't done it in years (if you want to know what it's like, just smack yourself in the hand with a hammer). Occasionally, the .38 version (M&P342) will pop up on Gunbroker.

https://i.imgur.com/oiw9q0v.jpg

[Dagga Boy]

I carry these in various configurations all the time and have a bunch. So, take this for what it’s worth. If it is going to serve in a primary gun role for NPE use or simply because you are leading a 5 shot lifestyle, the 340M&P or 340PD is worth the money for the sights as you will likely be needing them if you have to use it in a defensive shooting. If it is a back up to a primary carry gun, stick with a 642 or 442 and I like the PRO/PC versions with the better triggers.

[Doc_Glock]

I carry these in various configurations all the time and have a bunch. So, take this for what it’s worth. If it is going to serve in a primary gun role for NPE use or simply because you are leading a 5 shot lifestyle, the 340M&P or 340PD is worth the money for the sights as you will likely be needing them if you have to use it in a defensive shooting. If it is a back up to a primary carry gun, stick with a 642 or 442 and I like the PRO/PC versions with the better triggers.

They come with either a red ramp or fiber optic front. Which is the way to go?

[Isaac]

Pretty sure the red ramp is the no-lock.

Is there any pro or con to the 2 piece barrel of the 340?

[El Cid]

My only advice is get the version without the lock. Mine had trigger binding issues for a bit and that’s the only thing I can figure.

Anyone with an M&P340 or other I-frame using VZ grips? I keep going back and forth between them and leaving the CT-105 on it.
https://vzgrips.com/products/s-w-j-frame-vz-twister.html

[Chuck Whitlock]

Re: .357 Magnum v. .38 Special

I have an SP101. I currently use Win. Ranger 130 grain .38 Special +P. I am looking to try out Rem. 125 grain Golden Saber, Hornady 135 grain Critical Duty, Speer 135 grain Gold Dot short barrel, and Win. 145 grain Silvertips in Magnum flavor in the stout little beast.

My son bought an LCR in .357 Magnum, and wanted to try Magnums in it. I bought a box of Hornady 125 grain American Gunner in Magnum flavor. the cylinder was loaded with 5 rounds. He touched off one and was DONE. I managed to squeeze off three more. The 5th round went back in the box. He carries .38 Special in it.

Moral of the story: I will entertain the possibility of Magnums in an all-steel weapon, but lightweights only get .38's.

[Dagga Boy]

You want to shoot .357 full house Magnums in a 5 shot snub.....this is why the Lord made Hamilton Bowen custom SP-101’s ....😎

[Up1911Fan]

Anyone know of an online LE dealer that has the no lock version in stock?

[JAH 3rd]

Pretty sure the red ramp is the no-lock.

Is there any pro or con to the 2 piece barrel of the 340?

My 340PD has no lock and the red ramp front sight. I haven't had any issues with the two piece barrel.

[JodyH]

Anyone with an M&P340 or other I-frame using VZ grips? I keep going back and forth between them and leaving the CT-105 on it.
https://vzgrips.com/products/s-w-j-frame-vz-twister.html
Best grips out there for the J's.
For recoil mitigation go with the smooth VZ 320, that little extra "slip" under recoil makes a difference.
My carry 340PD has Operator II's which have a lot of texture for retention.

[El Cid]

Best grips out there for the J's.
For recoil mitigation go with the smooth VZ 320, that little extra "slip" under recoil makes a difference.
My carry 340PD has Operator II's which have a lot of texture for retention.

Exactly the kind of information I was seeking. Thanks!

[rm06]

My only advice is get the version without the lock. Mine had trigger binding issues for a bit and that’s the only thing I can figure.

Anyone with an M&P340 or other I-frame using VZ grips? I keep going back and forth between them and leaving the CT-105 on it.
https://vzgrips.com/products/s-w-j-frame-vz-twister.html

Bro, quit spending my money :cool:

I am in the process of ordering the M&P 340, no lock, with XS front sight. I don't love tritium sights but at least it isn't a 3-dot configuration and there's never any free lunch with these purchases. I'm pretty excited about it honestly, I've had analysis paralysis over EDC guns for so many years I have just been ignoring the topic and lugging around my P07 or P01 but not as often as I could or should.

[Screwball]

If I had to do it all over again, I’d do a no-lock 340, rechamber it for 9mm, and be done. Still would set it up with the LaserMax light and CT LG-405s.

I love my 642-1, but didn’t get it with the intention to convert to 9mm. I carry it religiously now... so saving a few ounces would have been great.

[pastaslinger]

What are everyone's thoughts regarding the LCR .357 vs the M&P 340? No desire to shoot .357 through either, but rather the durability and extra weight for .38 +p.

[Screwball]

What are everyone's thoughts regarding the LCR .357 vs the M&P 340? No desire to shoot .357 through either, but rather the durability and extra weight for .38 +p.

Going in it blind, the LCR would be an easy learn.

If you have experience with S&W triggers... the LCR is a very different animal. You can always train on it, but why lose whatever skill you have and dump to something “different.” That was part of my reason of sticking with S&W. Others included a gun I already had (which was done in NP3 Plus, so would lose a lot on the sale) and having holsters/other gear that I’d have to replace.

Neither is really going to give you a better experience shooting. The .38 only LCR is lighter than my Airweight, but going titanium cylinder will put the J-frame under. .357/9mm LCRs... they are noticeably heavier. I compared my dad’s .357 LCR to my 642, and it wasn’t steel J-frame weight, but somewhere between the two.

[richiecotite]

The .38 only LCR is lighter than my Airweight, but going titanium cylinder will put the J-frame under. .357/9mm LCRs... they are noticeably heavier. I compared my dad’s .357 LCR to my 642, and it wasn’t steel J-frame weight, but somewhere between the two.

This. I’d be perfectly content with a 38 only version of the 340 with a titanium cylinder. The weight difference is way more noticeable in pocket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TC215]

This. I’d be perfectly content with a 38 only version of the 340 with a titanium cylinder. The weight difference is way more noticeable in pocket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're unicorns, but they're out there. No titanium cylinder, though.

https://images.gunsinternational.com/listings_sub/acc_96/gi_100836356/-Smith-and-Wesson-MandP-342-38-Special-PR34605_100836356_96_161034B6762D01B7.jpg

[23JAZ]

Has anyone who has installed an Apex spring kit had any problems with the trigger not resetting? The trigger on my 340 was not resetting so I opened it up and found the green paint on Apex rebound slide spring was chipping and there were green flakes all over the place. I cleaned everything up reinstalled the factory rebound slide spring but left the Apex firing pin, firing pin spring and main spring in. No the gun has a nice stout reset. I'm wondering if I just got a bad spring from Apex because I had a 442 with their spring kit in it and never had that issue.

[Super77]

You can buy just the titanium cylinder on midway for like $75.

[Salamander]

Here's my M&P 340, the XS tritium front sort of shows. The scandium frame wears kind of ugly but it's honest wear, this one gets carried a lot. It was my office gun for years, now working from home it sits on my desk and goes in a pocket when I leave the house. For backcountry hikes it tends to go to a BUG role when I'm carrying a larger revolver.

Wadcutters in the cylinder, a speed strip of Speer 38 135 short-barrel HP in a pocket. It will never see magnum loads, even 38 +p can hurt after a few rounds. It's not bad with 38 sp 125 gr light loads though, I actually shot part of the first revolver roundup with this gun, switching to a 642 after a while. I really prefer the sights on this one though, and for me those alone were well worth the cost.

58823

[NPV]

Has anyone who has installed an Apex spring kit had any problems with the trigger not resetting? The trigger on my 340 was not resetting so I opened it up and found the green paint on Apex rebound slide spring was chipping and there were green flakes all over the place. I cleaned everything up reinstalled the factory rebound slide spring but left the Apex firing pin, firing pin spring and main spring in. No the gun has a nice stout reset. I'm wondering if I just got a bad spring from Apex because I had a 442 with their spring kit in it and never had that issue.

I had that issue with a 640 Pro, trigger was very sluggish on the reset and would stop at the halfway point if you didn’t let you finger forward immediately. On my 442 no issues ever. I think it’s a case by case thing.

It’s one example of why the factory uses the stouter springs; they will work with a larger number of guns with the needs for further tweaking or modification of components.

[Wayne Dobbs]

Has anyone who has installed an Apex spring kit had any problems with the trigger not resetting? The trigger on my 340 was not resetting so I opened it up and found the green paint on Apex rebound slide spring was chipping and there were green flakes all over the place. I cleaned everything up reinstalled the factory rebound slide spring but left the Apex firing pin, firing pin spring and main spring in. No the gun has a nice stout reset. I'm wondering if I just got a bad spring from Apex because I had a 442 with their spring kit in it and never had that issue.

You cleared out the paint deposits, which are a big help, but in my experience, there are often burrs inside the spring's tunnel on the rebound slide that will impede spring function. A round, hard India stone will be useful for that issue. Good gunsmiths/armorers would also polish the spring's ends and buff the circumference of the spring body to gain best sliding function of the spring inside that tunnel.

[Up1911Fan]

You can buy just the titanium cylinder on midway for like $75.

More like double that.

[UpDok]

The elephant in the room - price. Is the juice worth the squeeze?

For me a definite yes. I picked up an S&W 340SC AirLite a few years ago for $500 at my favorite brick and mortar gun store. When I first got the revolver it looked like it had only been fired once and quickly sold by somebody with a sore hand. The 340SC has a scandium alloy frame and a titanium cylinder like the PD model, but the grey finish of the 340SC on mine has not held up very well. I think the grey finish model 340sc might have been less expensive for that reason.

Oh yeah... it hurts like hell with full magnums, but it doesn't with .38 special wadcutter ammo.

It's currently hard to find good deals on self-defense handguns with Covid and the insurrections. That will probably change with the passage of time so people can find other things to get in a panic about.

[parishioner]

Currently in the market for a 340 or 340PD.

I plan on primarily running wadcutters through this providing they hit POA.

Id prefer the PD for the lightest possible option but have read some things that have given me pause.

One user here stated it isn’t smart to shoot lead through the titanium cylinders and should be avoided, I’m assuming due to increased cleaning requirements for the more maintenance intensive cylinder and a few others state they shoot wadcutters through theirs but really no other details

I’m basically just trying to determine how big of an issue this is and if its something to truly worry about.

[Blades]

Currently in the market for a 340 or 340PD.

I plan on primarily running wadcutters through this providing they hit POA.

Id prefer the PD for the lightest possible option but have read some things that have given me pause.

One user here stated it isn’t smart to shoot lead through the titanium cylinders and should be avoided, I’m assuming due to increased cleaning requirements for the more maintenance intensive cylinder and a few others state they shoot wadcutters through theirs but really no other details

I’m basically just trying to determine how big of an issue this is and if its something to truly worry about.

I thought it was marked on the gun "jacketed bullets only" due to the recoil pulling lead bullets loose? Someone will confirm.

[parishioner]

I thought it was marked on the gun "jacketed bullets only" due to the recoil pulling lead bullets loose? Someone will confirm.
I see them marked “no less than 120gr” due to scoring of the cylinder face from the fast burning propellant or something like that but haven’t seen jacketed only. Perhaps though.